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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STMIT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)  •72-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductlons  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiq 


ues 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notot  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Th 
to 


Tha  Instituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Featuras  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


D 


D 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Colourad  covars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I      I    Covars  dumagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagte 

Covars  restorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastaurte  at/ou  pallicul4a 


I      I    Covar  titia  missing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

Colourad  maps/ 

Cartes  g6ographiquas  an  coulaur 

Colourad  inic  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  biaclc)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


r~~1    Colourad  plataa  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  at/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autrea  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrde  peut  cauaar  da  I'ombra  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  aJoutAea 
lore  d'una  restauration  apparaiasant  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsqua  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  filmtes. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  4tA  possible  de  re  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sort  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


n 

D 
0 
D 
D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pagea  da  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagAas 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdas  at/ou  pellicultes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolortes,  tachetAea  ou  piqutes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachtes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  InAgala  de  I'impreaaion 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  material  suppKmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Las  pages  totalament  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  bnt  M  filmtes  A  nouveau  da  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Th 
pa 
of 
fill 


Or 
be 
th 
si( 
ot 
fir 
si( 
or 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmantairaa; 


irregular  pagination:   [I]-  XII,  (I)-  VIII,  [13]  •  [280] p. 


Th 
sh 
Til 
wl 

Mi 
dif 
en 
bei 

rig 
re< 
m( 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

1 
t 

>/ 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28>: 

32X 

ire 

details 
les  du 
modifier 
ler  una 
filmage 


to* 


The  copy  fiimed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanlcs 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  iceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  Illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  Illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -h^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exempiaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grflce  A  la 
gin^rositA  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationaie  du  Canada 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t4  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet«  de  l'exempiaire  filmi.  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimte  sont  filmAs  en  commen9ant 
par  ie  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'lllustration.  soit  par  ie  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  fllmte  en  commengant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'lllustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — *•  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  fiimed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  Illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  6tre 
fiimfo  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  6tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichi,  11  est  fiimA  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
iiiustrent  la  m^thode. 


errata 
J  to 


B  pelure, 
on  A 


n 

32X 


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t 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7)io 


Toth 


♦•UBLIS 


UPPER   CHASM    01<    FALL   RIVER. 


cr 


r 


u 


PEDESTRIAN 


(■•'■■j 


•li 


OF 


T^ro  2%0M5anrf  7%rec  Hundred  Mih^, 


IN 


NORTH  AMERICA. 


',< 


■       Vj 


To  Mc  Lakes, — 7%e  CanadaSy — And  the 
New-England  States. 

PERFORMED  IN  THE  AUTUMN  OF 

1821. 

Embellished  with  Views. 


BY  P.  STAIVSBURY. 


NEW- YORK: 

I'UBLISHED  AND  SOLD  BY  J.  D.  MYERS  &  W.  SMITH, 
NO.  59  FULTON  STREET. 


1822. 


■:t.-  *; 


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•'    fev  f    'i    :    .,'j  [^ 


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V    » 


I 


A   HTiF* 


5o«tA«m  Dittrict  qfJYeuhYork^  S8» 

rC§\  "OE  IT  REMEMBERED,  that  on  (he  &ixth  day  of  December 
i.^-^  j3in  the  forty-siith  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United 
States  of  America,  J.  D.  Myen  &  W.  Smith,  of  the  said  District, 
hare  deposited  in  this  oflice  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whereof  they 
claim  as  proprietors,  in  the  wordi  and  figures  following,  to  wit : 

•(A  Pedestrian  Tour  of  Two  Thousand  Three  Hundred  Miles,  in 
"North  America.  To  the  Lakes,— The  Canadas,— and  the  New* 
*'  England  States.  Performed  in  the  Autumn  of  1821.  Embellished 
"  iritti  Views.    By  P.  Stansburv." 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  the  Congreu  of  die  United  States,  en> 
titled  **  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the 
copies  of  maps,  charts,  and  boMcs,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of 
such  copies,  during  the  time  therein  mentioned.**  And  also  to  an  act, 
entitled  **  An  act,  supplementary  to  an  act,  entitled  an  act  for  the 
encouragement  of  leaminr^  by  securing  the  copies  of  maps,  charts, 
and  books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the 
times  therein  mentioned,  and  eKtendin|;  the  benefits  thereof  to  the  arts 
uf  dciigiiing,  engraving,  and  etching  historical  and  other  prints.** 

JAMES  DILL. 

Clerk  of  fAs  Southern  District  of  JSTew-York* 


J\tycrt  4r  Smith,  Printers. 


'if 


.   ■•'   t 


t* 


ri 


PRELIMINARY  ADDRESS. 


■M     '      . 


1 ', 


?i 


_the 

in  of 

act, 

the 

|arU, 

tiM 

arts 


The  people  of  America  have  always  borne  in 
their  character,  a  prominent  warlike  feature. 
Before  ships  of  discovery  had  ever  ventured 
across  the  Atlantic,  the  savage  tribes  had  been 
fighting  their  battles  in  routine,  and  (.very 
Indian  carried  his  war-club,  his  rude  bow  and 
flint-headed  arrows  ready  for  combat.  The 
battles,  skirmishes  and  bloodshed  of  every  des- 
cription, which  took  place  when  the  country  be- 
gan to  be  colonised,  are  too  many  to  be  reckon- 
ed. Spaniards,  French  and  English,  with  the 
savages,  either  as  their  allies,  or  as  their  enemies, 
were  prostrated  in  death  together.  The  colonies 
protected  the  lands  which  they  had  siezed  or  ac- 
quired, with  their  arms,  and  silenced  the  demands 
of  the  old  possesors,  with  their  swords  and  mus- 
kets. And  at  this  day,  in  North  America,  where 
the  natives  are  not  so  completely  subjected  as  in 
South  America,  wars  and  murders  are  constantly 
progressing. 

Armed  troops  were  the  first  to  penetrate  the 
forests  and  desart  wilds  of  this  country,  in  pur- 
suit of  some  remote  fortress,  or  upon  some  haz- 
ardeus  expedition,  traversed  and  explored  exten- 
sive tracts,  which  till  then  were  entirely  unknown< 


'  i  ; 


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IV 


PRELIMINARY    ADDRK8S. 


In  an  attempt  of  this  kind  it  was,  that  Brad- 
dock  lost  his  life,  as  he  marched  through  an 
unknown  wood,  in  the  expedition  against  Fort 
du  Quesne ;  and  Arnold,  like  the  leader  of  the 
Israelites  in  the  wilderness,  conducted  his  men 
many  hundred  miles  over  dismal  swamps  and 
barren  mountains,  to  the  attack  upon  Quebec. 

Discoveries  are  now  made,  not  by  soli- 
tary travellers  trudging  as  in  other  countries, 
with  their  horses,  instruments,  and  papers,  for 
their  companions;  but  by  Officers  at  the 
head  of  their  troops,  sent  by  government  to  ex- 
plore the  riches  of  their  acquired  territories. 
Such  are  the  travels  which  excite  the  interest, 
and  particularly  attract  the  attention  of  the 
public. 

Who  ever  undertakes  a  journey  in  North  Ame- 
rica, especially  in  the  more  northern  latitudes, 
must  pass  over  ground,  rendered  ever  memorable 
for  many  important  battles.  The  conquest  of 
Canada  in  1759,  its  invasion  during  the  revolu- 
tionary struggle,  and  the  numerous  incursions 
against  that  country  in  the  late  American  war, 
have  been  the  occasion  of  very  fierce  engagements 
on  all  the  frontier  line  from  Detroit  to  Quebec  ; 
and  have  caused  the  erection  of  fortresses  at 
every  important  post  in  that  direction.  The 
wars  with  the  Indians  in  the  New  England 
States,  the  patriotic  exertions  for  independence 
in  Massachusetts,  and  the  disasterous  expedition 
of  General  Burgoyne  at  Saratoga  in  New-York, 
have  also  laid  the  scene  of  memorable  actioni^ 


at 
The 


VR£LIM1MARY    ADDRESS.  .     tf 

Most  of  these  battle-grounds  will  be  traversed, 
and  every  American  who  loves  his  country,  will 
view  them  with  interest,  and  either  glory  in  the 
successes  of  his  countrymen,  or  feel  for  the  mis- 
fortunes, which  none  but  the  worst  of  circum- 
stances could  have  adduced.  The  desire  of  visit- 
ing them,  not  only  to  A  mericans,  but  to  foreigners 
also,  is  one  incentive  for  undertaking  what 
is  sometimes  denominated,  the  Grand  Northern 
Tour  ;  which  embraces  the  Springs,  the  Lakes, 
the  Canadas,  and  the  New  England  States.    ■ 

A  Tour  of  this  kind  does  not  indeed  ofter  so 
many  new  and  extraordinary  sights,  as  a  journey 
among  the  Indian  nations  in  the  central  parts  of 
our  continent,  where  the  mind  is  continually 
arrested  by  unusual  scenes,  and  by  the  singular 
manners  of  the  native  inhabitants  ;  what  is  to  be 
seen  is  strange,  but  there  is  much  less  to  be 
spoken  of,  upon  returning,  than  the  northern  rout 
alluded  to,  affords.  In  this  w  discover  the  man- 
ners of  our  citizens,  and  their  improvements  in 
arts,  learning,  and  agriculture.  Reports  con- 
cerning the  great  beauty  of  the  country,  and  vast 
increase  of  the  population,  which  we  may  have 
deemed  inconsistent,  will  be  found  to  be  true.  The 
greatest  cataracts  in  the  world,  will  gratify  our 
curiosity  in  some  parts  of  the  journey,  and  we 
shall  enjoy,  in  a  certain  degree,  the  pleasure  of  a 
western  expedition,  by  passing  through  the  lands 
of  sereral  tribes  of  Indians.  One  advantage  par- 
tknilatij  resulting  from  such  a  Tour,  is  visiting  a 
countiyy differing verylittle  from  one  in  Europe, 

1* 


^  H    h 


i. 


A 


m 


.  ii[ 


VI 


PUELIMINARY    ADOR£ftS. 


J 


■\ 


and  becoming,  by  Ibat means,  acquainted  witli  tlie 
opinions,  which  its  inhabitants  the  French  and 
English  Canadians  entertain  towards  the  Unitetl 
States,  and  thus  be  enabled  to  contrast  the  de- 
fects of  that  subjected  nation,  with  the  excellen- 
cies of  our  republican  form  of  government.  Not 
only  the  wonderful  operations  of  nature,  her 
caverns,  her  mineral  springs,  her  lofty  pre- 
cipices, her  deep  gulfs,  but  the  stupendous 
performances  of  man  also,  are  here  and  there  to 
be  seen,  equal  if  not  superior  to  similar  works 
so  much  extolled  in  the  elder  countries.  These 
and  many  more,  arc  inducements,  in  addition  to 
the  sites  of  famous  battles,  which  are  certainly 
not  to  be  considered  as  insignificant. 

It  must  be  owned  that  accounts  of  travels'  in 
Europe,  are  greedily  perused,  in  preference  to 
these  in  our  own  country.  Yet  the  difference 
between  them  is  very  considerable  ;  the  one  is  a 
dull  monotomy  of  town  after  town,  edifices,  states- 
men, and  literati ;  the  other,  a  constant  and  agree- 
able change  from  flourishing  villages  to  gloomy 
desarts,  from  mountains  to  wide  inland  oceans, 
from  wigwams  to  dashing  water-falls,  and  then 
again  to  splendid  cities  and  state-houses,  with 
all  their  patriotic  meetings,  assemblies,  and 
conventions.  There  is  this  difference  in  par- 
ticular, that  the  slightest  error  will  be  detected 
in  the  latter,  whilst  in  the  former,  all  the  flowery 
additions,  tinsel  ornaments  and  absurdities,  wiUi 
which  foreign  travellers  frequently  decorate  their 
accounts,  give  additional  entertainment;  because 


f 


i       t 


fRCLlMlNAUY    AI>DR£S.S. 


S  II 


^-c  see  through  a  mist,  antl  cannot  easily  deter- 
mine, what  is  correct,  and  what  is  false  or 
exaggeralcil. 

Long  accustomed  to  pore  over  English  roman- 
ces, which  it  must  be  confessed,  arc  in  general, 
better   written  than  our  American   novels,  wo 
read  with  admiration  the  descriptions  of  places, 
which    imagination  has   already  dressed   in  so 
many  beautiful  colours.      Yonder  seems  to  be 
the  land  of  heroes.     We  see  kings,  thrones,  and 
iioblcmen  :    but  America  has  no  kings  to  boast 
of:  it  has  only  plain  dressed  governors.  Treaties 
that  have  decided  the  fate  of  lords  and  princes, 
have   been    held   in   that  place,  and  in  other 
places,  oppressed  men  who  have  spurned  the 
yoke  of  tyranny,  or  assaulted  the  monarch's  ears 
with  blasphemous  words,  have  yielded  their  lives' 
upon  the  scaifold.     Here  treaties  have  only  been 
held  with  wild  wandering  savages,    and  those 
merely  to  settle  the  claims  of  states  and  territo- 
ries, not  above  three  hundred  miles  square ;  and 
as  to  beheading,  hanging,  and  imprisoning,  all  we 
have  is  now  and  then  a  solitary  example  of  a 
pirate,  a  mail  robber,  or  some  foreign  rogue,  who 
has  emigrated  here,  and  seeks  for    riches  and 
notoriety.     Here  are  no  palaces,  no  dungeons, 
no  monasteries,  no  relics,   no  chains,  and  no 
hobgoblins.  Instead  of  castles  we  have  only  forts, 
and  instead  of  thunderbolts,  panic  struck  squires 
tfot^!  lovers ;  we  have  only  tornadoes,  and  dis- 
BUiyed  j^rmers,  viewing  their  bams  flying  in  the 
ttr*   Such  may  be  the  reasoning  of  those  people;, 


f 


!  1 


y 


Un 


H: 


ytit 


preliminahv  address. 


i! 


[U 


who  despise  every  thing  their  own  country 
produces. 

To  unprejudiced  minds,  travels  in  Europe, 
like  European  deeds,  are  in  fact  not  half  so  in* 
teresting,  as  the  same  in  their  own  country. 
Because  their  numberless  historians  have  thrown 
over  the  slightest  mattery  of  record,  an  appear- 
ance of  dignity,  and  because  poets  and  trage- 
dians have  applauded  to  the  skies,  even  the  foU 
lies  of  their  rulers  ;  their  accounts  like  painted 
images,  which  look  remarkably  natural  at  a  dis- 
tance, are  upon  close  inspection  found  to  be 
coarsely  executed,  and  pass  very  readily  in  the 
remote  districts  which  we  inhabit,  whilst  pro- 
ductions of  our  own,  are  very  frequently  neg- 
lected. When  the  United  States  of  America  shall 
have  stood  for  ages,  and  increasing  as  it  does  now, 
becomes  one  of  the  most  powerful  nationis  of  the 
globe;  historians,  poets,  and  orators,  will  speak 
of  its  smallest  movements,  in  their  most  flowery 
language  ;  and  then  travels  through  the  civilized 
parts  of  the  states,  may  be  thought  more  worthy 
the  attention  of  its  citizens,  than  they  can  pos- 
sibly be  at  the  present  day. 

The  volume  here  obtruded  into  public  notice, 
claims  no  advantages  of  diction.  Its  only  ex- 
cellency if  it  has  any,  lies  in  the  remarkable 
scene'',  whicli  it  endeavours  to  describe.  It  is 
offered  with  a  feeling  of  national  pride,  that  our 
country  can  be  travelled,  and  present  at  alnioBt 
every  step,  prospects  of  the  grandest  kind  te 
greet  the  sight,  and  objects  of  nature  and  art. 


F 


tAELIMlNARY    ADDRESS. 


ax 


art. 


lron<1erful  and  magnificent,  to  reward   the  toil 
of  the  adventurer. 

Although  geology  is  a  science  of  the  first  im- 
portance in  America,  more  than  in  any  other 
country  ;  and  as  such,  deserves  that  attention 
from  all  classes  of  the  community,  and  from  the 
ruling  authorities,  which  it  actually  docs 
receive  ;  yet,  1  acknowledge,  little  obser- 
vation has  been  given  by  me,  to  the  physical 
structure  of  the  land,  over  which  I  passed,  and 
very  little  respecting  that  useful  branch  of  know- 
ledge, will  be  found  in  the  subsequent  pages* 
Wkat  geological  notices  are  introduced,  have 
arisen  from  transitory  and  perhaps  mistaken 
views,  and  from  a  small  portion  of  mineralogical 
iRformation,  received  under  the  erudite  lectures 
of  Dr.  Mitchell  of  this  city. 

In  all  that  is  said,  I  have  considered  the  reader 
to  be  as  unacquainted  with  the  places  and  sub- 
jects mentioned,  at  myself,  when  1  first  <<et  out 
on  this  Tour.  This  has  led  me,  with  how  much 
propriety,  I  cannot  myself  decide,  into  details, 
w^ich  to  many  may  probably  appear  trivial,  and 
to  some,  as  absolutely  unworthy  of  their  perusal. 
But  the  work,  such  as  it  is,  I  otFer  for  the 
amusement  of  the  public.  I  cast  myself  upon 
the  good  will  of  people,  and  can  only  urge  in 
extenuation  for  all  the  faults,  which  it  may  con- 
tain, that  I  have  never  as  yet,  acquired  much  ex- 
perience in  the  common  methods  of  mankind. 

Travelling  on  foot,  is  certainly  not  common 
in  this  highly  favoured  country  of  ours,  where 


'I 


»i' 


•  J 


''ii 


U 


t      ) 


HI 
li 


%*  PaELIMINARY    ADDB£S». 

« 

every  man  lives  in  abundance,  and  possesses  at 
all  times,  the  most  ample  means  of  self-transpor- 
tation. This  is  not  the  case  in  foreign  countries, 
where  the  cost  of  riding  is  proportionally  high, 
money  !:ard  to  be  procured,  and  where  the  roads 
are  excellent,  and  furnished  with  easy  foot-walks, 
designed  purposely  for  pedestrians.  There, 
foot  walking  is  customary,  and  the  main  roads 
are  often  lined  with  men  and  women,  plodding 
their  way  to  and  from  their  populous  towns ; 
and  in  Scotland,  it  is  nothing  extraordinary,  to 
see  large  companies  of  lasses,  with  their  shoes 
in  their  hands,  marching  barefoot,  several 
miles,  to  the  *'  kirk,"  or  hastening  to  a  fair  in 
some  neighbouring  village.  Here,  it  is  seldom 
indeed,  that  we  meet  a  solitary  passenger,  and 
when  we  do  meet  one,  we  believe,  he  travels  in 
that  manner,  either  through  inclination  and  plea- 
sure, or  out  of  a  principle  of  the  strictest 
economy ;  and  whatever  may  be  his  reasons  in 
reality,  for  proceeding  so,  we  know  not  how  to 
rate  him  from  the  circumstance,  nor  can  we  act 
towards  him  with  less  civility,  than  if  he  made 
bis  appearance  on  the  back  of  a  horse. 

Persons  have  inquired  which  is  the  most  pro- 
fitable method  of  travelling  in  order  to  obtain 
information; — ^by  stage-coaches— on  horseback 
— or  on  foot  ?  With  regard  to  the  former,  it  is 
evident  at  once,  that  it  is  the  most  imperfect ; 
for  we  are  in  a  manner,  sailing  upon  land,  where 
the  limited  prospects,  obtained  through  die  win- 
dows of  the  vehicle,  pass  away  like  confused 


drea 


Lt.; 


PRELIMINARY    ADDRESS. 


Xt 


dreams  and  airy  bubbles  of  imagination.  With 
regard  to  the  two  latter,  the  decision  is  doubtful. 
A  man  on  horseback  possesses  advantages,  which 
are  far  beyond  the  reach  of  the  pedestrian.  His 
progress  is  slow  or  very  speedy,  according  to  his 
wish,  his  mind  is  not  confused  and  oppressed 
by  fatigue,  and  his  situation  is  suHiciently  ele- 
vated, to  afford  him  the  best  views  of  all  sur- 
rounding objects.  The  pedestrian,  however,  who 
has  none  but  himself  to  demand  his  care,  can 
proceed  without  very  great  exhaustion,  nearly  as 
fast  as  the  man  on  horseback  ;  and  when  he  is 
fatigued,  may  embrace  the  opportunity  of  a 
passing  stage-coach,  or  continue  his  journey  by 
water-carriage.  He  can  also  follow  whatever 
course  inclination  points  out,  independent  of 
beaten  tracks  and  taverns.  He  may  cross  fields, 
explore  valleys,  traverse  forests,  descend  caverns, 
climb  mountains,  and  still  continue  on  his 
course ;  to  do  which  on  horseback  would  be  im- 
possible ;  and  it  will  be  seen  that  I  have  made 
numerous  excursions,  and  have  gone  through 
many  interesting  scenes,  which  I  could  not  pos- 
sibly have  done,  by  any  other  method  of  travel- 
ling. He  can  by  this  means  also,  scrutinize  the 
works  of  nature  with  convenience ;  and  without 
materially  incommoding  himself,  can  examine 
every  littlecuriosity,  and  leap  hedge  and  ditch  to 
every  little  attraction,  which  presents  itself  to 
lUB  view.  Besides  which,  there  are  ways  of  inquir- 
ing into  the  manners  and  customs  of  inhabitants, 
which  could  not  otherwise  have  been  known. 


Ml 


I" 


'    1 


'.4 
J 

'  i  1 


XII 


PAELIMINARY    ADDRESS. 


Under  these  considerations,  I  chose  the  latte: 
method  for  my  Tour,  to  which  I  had  accustomed 
myseif,  by  making  frequent  excursions,  to  the 
mineral  springs,  mines,  quarries,,  and  various  na- 
tural curio»itie»  in  the  vicinity  of  my  native  city. 
Towards   the   latter  end  of  August,  having 
provided  mys6lf   with  several  necessary  useful 
instruments  and  maps,  I  entered  on  the  Tour, 
and  commenced  also  the  substance  of  the  fol- 
lowing pages.    Though  it  was  with  some  diffi- 
culty, that  I  could  make  all  the  remarks  I  wished, 
yet  it  afforded   me    pleasure,   to  employ   the 
few  moments  when  I  stopped  fatigued,  beneath 
the  shade  of  some  spreading  tree,  contemplating 
the  beauties  and  wonders  which  surrounded  me, 
to  take  out  my  writing  apparatus,  and  annex  one 
more  short  sentence,  to.  my  list  of  notes  and  ob- 
servations.   Any  thing  of  a  learned  and  polished 
kind  is  therefore  not  to  be  expected.    Interesting 
facts  and  occurrences  are  inserted,  in  order  if  pos* 
sible,  to  prevent  the    reader,  from    becoming 
wearied  with  the  trite  subjects,  of  which  travels 
are  chiefly  composed.    The  reader  must  judge 
of  its  merits:  for  my  own  part,  I  consider  myself 
as  planting  a  species  of  mushroom,  which  with 
all  its  deformities,  may  grow  for  a  moment,  and 
is  then,  justly,  crushed  or  thrust  aside  by  some 
superior  or  more  interesting  rronsterr 

>  P.  bTANSBURT. 

New'York,  December  5th,  1821. 


I 


FAOM 

Palis: 

Passa 

Relig 

High 

High 

West 

Montj 

Shaws 

Nevei 

Vale< 

Alban 

Sittini 


FROM  I 

Cahoe 
Stillwi 


*■  i      ' 


# 


eontent0« 


PRELIMINARY    ADDRESS* 

CHAPTER  I. 

FROM  NEW-YORK,  BY  A  CIRCUITOUS  ROUTE,  TO  ALBANY < 


I 


Palisadoes  on  Hudson  river 
Passaic  river  -        -        - 

Religious  Meeting  in  the  woods 
High  Torn  of  Harvestraw 
Highlands  of  the  Hudson 
West  Point  -        -        - 

Montgomery  on  the  Wallkill 
Shawangunk  (Sbongo)  mountain 
Neversink     -        -        -        - 
Vale  of  Warsink 
Albany 
Sitting  of  the  State  Convention 

CHAPTER  n. 


13 
1$ 
17 
18 
21 

sa 

«7 
27 
28 
30 
32 


FROM  ALBANY,  THROUGH    SARATOGA  AND  BALLSTON  SPA, 

TO  UTICA. 

Cahoes  of  the  Mohawk  -        -        -        34 

Stillwater      ------        35 

^BATTLE  OF  BEEMIS*  HEIGHTS 
Slwajred  fortifications    .        .       -       -       37 

2t 


j 


^. 


<  * 


11  .►      CONTENTS. 

Burgoyne's  approach    ^  -       -     ^-      ""-  ^37 

Massacre  of  Miss  M'Crea        -        -        -  -  40 

LadyAckland       .....  43 

The  house  where  Frazer  died   -        -        -  44 

Saratoga       -        -       -        -       -  -     .  45 

Baroness  Reidesell         ....  45 

Saratoga  Springs   -       -        •       •       -  48 

Ballston  Spa          .....  50 

Schenectady          -----  53 

Beautiful  valley    »       »       »       -       *  55 

CAVERN  OF  CANAJOHARIE. 

Descent  into  the  cavern         -       -       -  57 

Difficulty  of  the  descent         -        .        .  Qo 

Numberof  rooms  or  expansions     -       -  61 

Q4oomy  magnificence    -       -        -        -  61 

Little-Falls   -        -       -        -        -        -  62 

^reat  Western  Canal    -        -        -       -  68 

CHAPTER  III. 

PROM  VTICA  TO  TBE  BEAD  OF  LAin  CAITVG^. 

Appeai^nce  of  the  Country    -        -        -  65 

Utica 66 

Passage  on  the  Great  Canal  .        -        -  67 

Eitensive  Swamps         •        «        .        -  69 

Banks  of  Lake  Cayugik^       -        -        -  72 

Pleasant  sail  to  Ithaca   -        -        -        -  7d 

FALLS  OF  ITHACA.  ^ 

Surpnmfli^  beauty  of  the  falls         -        -  % 

jLeaps  of  Fall-River        -       -        -        -  *  '^ 

Tremendous  crags          •       -        -      ^  '^ 


The 
Natu 
Cases 
Tottc 

Contc 


PBOM  ; 

TheP 
Geneva 

Roches 
Higher 
Batmen 
Lower- 
Great  B 
Indian  ^ 
The  gre 
Chasm 

View  frj 

J^antastiJ 

Rapids 

Goat  or 

Bottom 

JDifficuh 

Orcadfui 

TaUe 


CONTENTS. 


Ill 


I     ;'■ 


48 
60 
53 
65 

67 
60 
61 
61 

OS 


65 
66 
67 
69 

n 

73 


The  Cascadilla      > 
Natural  amphitheatre    - 
Cascade  of  Goodwin's  Point   - 
Tottering  cliffs     .       -       - 

Contemplated  college  at  Ithaca 
CHAPTER  IV. 


81 

81 

83 
85 

85 


FBOM    ITHACA,     TO  THE    OEMESSEE,  AND  STRAIORTS  OF 


NIAGARA. 


1** 


The  Parallel  lakes         ....       88 
Geneva — Canandaigua  -       -       -       90 

THE  GENESSEE. 
Rochester-ville      -       -       -       .       - 
Higher-Falls  cf  the  GsPt^SeG 
Bntments  of  the  «*  flying  bridge." 
Lower-Falls  ..... 

Great  Ridge  road  .... 

Indian  village  on  Lewiston  mountain     - 
The  great  Northern  Slope    •        .        . 
Chasm  of  Niagara        -        ... 

FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 

Exaggerated  accounts         •       m 
View  from  a  distance  - 

l^antastic  forms  of  the  spray     ^,,^:.- 
Rapids  above  the  falls  ... 

Goat  or  Iris  Island  .... 
Bottom  of  the  Falls  .... 
DiiBcult  entrance  behind  the  Horseshoe-fall  109 
Prcadful  situation  -  -  .  .  no 
Table  rock         -----       l^S 


■  A- 

91 

99 
93 

94 

j)4 

96 

100 

101 

108 
104 
105 
106 
106 
107 


i 


'Pi 


!  t 


I 

It 


1 


t.^tHi''}-t..,^".ff  i 


I     ' 


II 


r ' 


'  \  i  • 


XV  CONTENTS. 

Prospect  from  Ontario  hotel         -        «  113 

The  Whirlpool    -----  113 

Black-Rock         -       -        -        -        .  115 

Grand  council  of  Indians  at  Buifaloe     -  116 

Six  Nations          -        .        -        .        .  1)7 

CHAPTER  V.  # 

UPPER  CANADA. 

Fields  of  famous  Battles        -        .        .  120 

Canadian  bank  of  the  Straights  of  Niagara  121 

Queenston   -----.  123 

Newark  and  Fort  George      -        -        -.  125 

FRONTIER  BATTLES. 

Visit  to  the  Heights  of  Queenston          -  liK7 

Bloody  battle  of  Queenston           -        -  130 

Explosion  of  the  magazine  at  York        -  133 

Capture  of  Fort  George        -        -        -  134 

Newark  reduced  to  ashes     ...  136 

American  Frontier  laid  waste       -        -  137 

Battle  of  Chippewa      ...        -  138 

Great  battle  at  Niagara  Falls        -        -  139 

Indian  mode  of  warfare        -p        -        •  142 

Fort  Niagara       -       -        -        -        -  143 
CHAPTER  VI. 

^              THROUGH  UPPER  CANADA,  TO  MONTREAL.  ^^ 

Lake  Ontario       -        .        .        .        -  Ml 

Passage  to  Kingston    .        -        ^        -  IW 

Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands       -        -  11^ 


Opini 
Coun 
Lake 
Frenc 
Ottaw 
Caugl 

Genen 
Public 
Cathed 
Prospe 


FROM  MO 

Passage 

History 
Descrip 
Operatic 
Engagei 
Death  o 

Heights 
Walls  oil 
Citadel 
Diamonc 

F 

Chai 
ivit> 
nish 


CONTENTS. 


1^7 

lao 

133 
134 
136 

137 
138 
139 
142 

143 


146 
148 


Opinions  of  the  Canadians           -        -  152 

Country  bail 156 

Lake  St.  Francis           ....  155 

French  Canadians        -        -        -        -  159 

Ottawa  or  Grand  River        ...  16O 

Caughnawaga  (Indian  village) .     -        -  162 

^  ,  MONTREAL. 

General  view  of  the  city      -        -        -  165 

Public  edifices     -        -        -        -        -  166 

Cathedral  of  Notre  dame       -        -        -  167 

Prospect  from  the  Mountain  of  Montreal  168 

CHAPTER  VIL 

FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC,  THE  FALLS   OF  CHAUDIERE, 

AND    MONTMORENCI.  ; 

Passage  down  the  St  Lawrence     -        -  17C 

FORTRESS  OF  QUEBEC. 

History       ------  173 

Description  of  the  site  of  Quebec  -        -  176 

Operations  of  General  Wolfe        -        -  178 

Engagement  between  the  French  &  English  181 

Death  of  Wolfe           -        -        -        -  182 

Heights  of  Abraham     -        -        -        -  182 

Walls  of  the  City          -        .        .        .  i85 

Citadel         -        -        -        -        -        .  iso 

Diamond  rock     -        -        -        -        -  188 

FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCL 

$^|X!harles*  river          -        -        -        -  189 

^iqlivity  of  Beauport          ...  igo 
mishing  height  and  grandeur  of  the  Falls  ipl 


I  : 


I.j 

i3' 


'<: 


u 


H 


I; 

i     ^ 


I 


i  .;. 


■1 


The  inner  cove      -       •       -        •       -  ige 

Death  of  Montgomery         •        .       •  ]9> 

Excursion  to  the  Chaudiere         -        »  190 

Singular  beauty  of  the  cataract     •        •  900 

Catholic  churches         -        -       -        *  308 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

,^^         „  -  »       LOWER  CANADA. 

Contemplated  road  to  Boston       «        -  f09 

Desert  ^voods      --..•.•  fi04 

St.  Lawrence  and  the  great  chain  of  Lakes  1K)4 

First  settlers  of  Canada         ...  208 

Present  inhabitants       -        .        .        .  2OB 

Economy  *««..•  30^ 

Industry      .        ^        .        •        .        .  2IO 

Superstition  and  Ignorance  -       •  213 

Deportment        -       -       -        •       -  215 

May-poles  -----  2IT 

Political  condition       -        -        .        .  217 

CANADA  GENERA LL Y. 

Emigrants  -       -       -        •       •  210 

Timber  trade       -----  290 

Fur  trade     --.-..  221 

Smuggling 222 

,   :         ^        CHAPTER  IX. 

<.  ROUTE  FROM  QUEBEC  TO  BOSTON. 

Rafts  _    -  J        _        _        ^        -  9tf 

Sorel  river  -----  ili^ 

Basin  of  Chambly        .        -        .        -  tS§> 

Great  swamp        -        -        .        -        -  230 


RHui 

Contr 

Hiils 

Onion 

Oreen 

Montf 

Longc 

Wilds 

Dartmc 
Singula 
Shaking 
Concorc 
Stage  ti 
Countei 

Political 
Witcbci 
Approac 


FAOM  bos: 

Capital 
Excursic 

BA 

BHilish  £0 

l^lttrepi 
Sfecdnd 


'.I 


CONTBdfTft. 


t09 
904 
1K)4 
208 
SOS 

sod 

210 
213 
215 
217 


Y19 


890 
221 
222 


29t 

9pP~^ 

9ao 


tt*.?^ 


VERMONT. 

R^urn  into  the  United  Statei 

Contrast      ------ 

Htils  of  Vermont         .       .  *  - 

Onion  River        -        -        -  -  - 

€hneen  Mountains         .        •  •  * 

Montpelier          -        -       ^  -  - 

Long  declivities  -        -.  - 

Wild  scenery  of  Vermont     -  -  - 

NEW-HAMPSHIRE. 
Dartmouth  College      .        -        -        . 
Singular  appearances  in  NM-Hampshire 
Shaking  Quakers  -        -        -        . 

Concord  •        •        ^        - 

Stage  travelling  .        -        .        • 

Counterfeiting     -        -        -        - 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

Political  standing  of  Massachusetts 
Witchcraft  «       •        •        • 

Approach  to  Boston  • 

CHAPTER  X. 


«r 


Til 

939 

233 
234 
236 
236 
237 
239 
941 

242 
244 
245 
247 
248 
950 

,i 

950 
951 
254 


FROM  BOSTON,    THROUGH   THE  STATE  OF  RBODE-ISLulirO, 

TO  NEW-YOfUE« 

Capital  of  Massachusetts      -      .-^       «  956 

Excursion  to  the  heights  of  Charleston  257 

BATTLE  OF  BUNKER'S  HILL. 

Irilish  forces  in  Boston         ...  258 

iMiirican  forces           .        •        -        «  259 

^^  repulse        ,        .       .        .        .  2(^ 

^cond  repulse           ...        .  26i 


.i 


.i,i. 


t 


I 


1  ^ ' 


r 


(  ■ 


:i) 


■} 


1  lit. 


▼Ill 


CONTBITTS. 


Retreat  from  Charleston 

Road  to  Providence     ... 

RHODE-ISLAND. 

Narraganset  harbour 

Newport     -        -        -       -        - 

New-England  in  general 

Approach  to  the  City  of  New- York 
Conclusion  .... 


302 
264 

368 
371 

373 
374 


'  1 1  M    ; 


•■•<».  t, 


' ; '  • 


I- 
I. 


ENGRAVINGS. 

Upper  Chasm  of  Fall-River 1 

Scene  in  the  Highlands/rom  West  Point, ...  24 

Scene  in  the  Valley  of  Canajoharie 55 

Great  or  Lower  Fall  of  Fall-River 76 

fiutments  of  the  Grenessee  Bridge 94 

Fort  Niagara 143 

,  Falls  of  Montmorenci 193 

.Falls  of  the  Chaudiere .300 

Basin  and  Fort  of  Chambly .32iB 


The  1 
fiom  N 

mencerr 
more  th 
shore  ol 
rliffs,  ar 
's  precil 
northeri 
Cause-wj 
not  the 
^^lurnnal 
hexagoni 
four    hi 

hundred 
river, 

of  the  cii 

Qi^abJj 


ii.I 


1 


!•'  , 


302 
964 

366 
368 
371 

373 
374 


•  ••     * 
..  34 
,.  65 
..  76 
..  94 
..143 

...ig3 

...300 
...33& 


•  4* 


CHAPTER  1. 


,  >noM  \i:w-vonK,  by  a  circvitovs  n^^ii 

^«<    ^      -'    ,'*»       *  TO    ALBANY. 

^!i:r ;.«.>'     )i^         'Monday,  August  20,  18i I. 


I** 


•  t 


I    'It'   m   iitu      .  • 


•  !.  ■ 


•li, 


The  rocky  bluff  above  Wehawk  (four  mi\&i 
fi'om  New- York)  on  the  Hudson,  is  the  com- 
mencement of  the  pallisado  ridge,  which  extends 
more  than  thirty  miles  northward  on  the  west 
shore  of  the  river.  The  form  of  these  upright 
cliffs,  and  the  slope  beneath  them  to  the  water, 
is  precisely  similar  to  the  high  shores  of  the 
northern  coast  of  Ireland,  adjoining  the  Giants' 
Cause-way  ;  the  quality  of  the  stone,  however  is 
not  the  same.  It  is  a  coarse  basalt  or  trap,  in 
columnar  masses,  some  of  which  are  regular 
hexagons.  The  general  height  of  the  ridge  is 
four  hundred  feet.  Here  it  is  only  one 
hundred  and  seventy-five*  above  the  level  of  the 
river.  From  this  place  I  took  a  farewell  glance 
of  the  city  of  New- York.  The  afternoon  was  re- 
midrkably  pleasant,  and  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the 

'  K*  detenained  by  Captain  ^tridge  of  Wmt-Point; .  '^^^ «  ^ 

2   * 


'■  I  f 


1  M 


•Ml 


^M' 


if 


•.I 


I  : 


.'. 


I 


."t 


u 


PEDEiirRIAN    TOUH. 


'liT 


ti-: 
I: 


river  and  opposite  country,  appeared  from 
(his  elevated  and  picturesque  situation.  De- 
sirous of  visiting  the  place,  where  General 
Hamilton  fell,  I  was  conducted  hy  a  lad,  and 
descending  a  long  path,  rocky  and  dangerous, 
I  approached  the  spot,  over  which,  not  only 
the  death  of  Hamilton  but  of  many  others,  who 
have  been  emulous  of  risking  their  lives  at  his 
tomb,  has  thrown  a  deep  shade  of  solemnity. 
The  boy  pointed  to  a  level  space  of  ground 
\vhere  the  combatants  had  stood,  and  in  his 
own  manner,  related  the  story  of  Price,  the 
last  duellist  here,  who  was  shot  by  an  Eng- 
lish officer.  The  blood  ran  streaming  from  his 
head,  covering  the  sand  and  stones  with  human 
gore,  as  he  was  carried  on  board  of  one  of  the 
numerous  boats  which  crowded  the  beach.  A 
number  of  spectators  viewed  this  transaction, 
from  the  neighbouring  rocks ;  and  a  more  horrible 
sight  could  not  possibly  have  been  imagined. 

The  monument  that  was  erected  here  to  the 
memory  of  General  Hamilton,  is  now  taken  to 
pieces  by  the  proprietor  of  the  soil,  and  conveyed 
to  his  house,  under  pretence  of  its  having  been 
too  much  resorted  to,  for  purposes  of  duelling. 

Leaving  this  melancholly  spot,  a  viper  two  feet 
in  length,  laid  coiled  in  the  path  leading  through 
the  woods  to  BuU's-ferry,  upon  which  I  was 
just  ready  to  tread  before  I  perceived  it.  Snakes 
are  very  numerous  in  this  pait  of  New-Jersey, 
The  land  here  makes  a  gradual  descent  west- 
ward from  the  high  banks  of  the  Hudson,  until 


It  u 
whii 
Con 
thoi 
in  8 
vene 
1  an 
heavj 
a/)prc 
On 
the  Pi 
iast  w 
some] 
gon  d 
out   ai 
greatly 
growth! 
ties  scj 
The  n 
from  a 
spacioi 
prietori 
The 
itself,  i 
but  the 
cant,  es| 
scarcelj 
gained, 
two  nan 
The  rivi 
the  falls  I 
^ilis  for^ 


It, 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


lb 


it  unites  With  those  extensive  meadows  through 
which  the  ITackensack  river  urges  its  course. 
Consiclc'ring  cvenhig  to  be  the  most  comfortable 
though  the  least  instructive  time  for  travelling 
in  sultry  weather,  I  proceeded  as  fur  as  the 
venerable  Dutch  village  of  Hackensack,  where 
1  arrived  at  ton  o'clock,  in  time  to  escape  a 
heavy  thunder  storm,  which  was  then  rapidly 
approaching. 

On  my  rout  to  Patterson,  1  found  the  bridge  over 
the  Passaic  river,  broken  down  by  the  floods  of 
last  winter,  and  I  was  upon  the  point  of  seeking 
some  method  of  fording  the  stream,  when  a  wag- 
gon drove  up,  which  enabled  me  to  cross  with- 
out any  difficulty.  Patterson  has  increased 
greatly  within  a  few  years,  and  is  of  s<i  sudden 
growth  that  the  peasantry  of  the  adjacent  coun- 
ties scarcely  know  where  such  a  place  is  situated. 
The  factories,  arranged  on  a  canal,  brought 
from  above  the  falls  of  the  Passaic,  are  vejy 
spacious,  and  do  honour  to  their  patriotic  pro- 
prietors. 

The  gulf  into  which  the  Passaic  precipitates 
itself,  is  well  worth  the  attention  of  the  Tourist; 
but  the  Falls  themselves,  are  extremely  insignifi- 
cant, especially  at  this  dry  season  of  the  year,  and 
scarcely  deserve  the  celebrity,  which  they  have 
gained.  Their  pitch  is  about  sixty  feet  down 
two  narrow  chasms,  six  or  eight  f^et  in  width. 
The  river  winds  in  the  form  of  the  letter  Z,  and 
the  falls  are  at  the  upper  angle.  The  Tattoway 
bills  form  a  ridge  of  extremely  hard  basaltic  rock. 


i 


11 


1^! 


'      I 


•  ^1 

I? 


m 


I»£D£STRIAK   TOUR. 


I  • 


'i' 


1  . 


into  which  the  river  has  worn  a  distance  of  one 
hundred  yards,  leaving  the  sides  of  the  excavar 
tion,  perfect  precipices.     By  mounting  upon  an 
embankment  of  stones  in  front  of  the  fails,  to  the 
canal-resei'voir,  and  thence  ascending  a  flight  of 
steps  to  a  gate  and  house  of  refreshments,  we  reach 
the  upper  level  of  the  Passaic.   The  few  acres  of 
land  facetiously  denominated  the  Isle-of-man,  on 
account  of  its  being  completely  insulated  by  the 
canal,  affords  a  terrible  prospect  into  the  gulf 
below.     To  look  down,  reminds  us  of  the  melan- 
choly   catastrophe    which  occurred  here,    and 
which  is  too  well  known  to   require  repetition. 
A  large  fragment  of  the  rock  has  been  reft;  from 
the  main  portion,  making  a  deep  crevice  of  three 
feet  in   width,   black,  terriffic  and  dangerous, 
down  which,  a  stone,  it  is  said,  may  be  heard  to 
rumble,  until  the  sounds  are  lost  in  the  distance. 
I  looked  around  for  a  stone  to  throw  down  the 
crevice,  but  the  busy  hands  of  curiosity  had  seized 
every  little  pebble  on  the  Isk-of-man,   .^»j  a<  ...^  • 
Being  informed  that  a  religious  sect  were  hold- 
ing a  meeting  in   the  woods  near  Harvestraw, 
I   resolved   to  visit  it,    and  making  my  way 
through   by-roads  and  lanes  for  thirty  miles,  I 
came,  about  nine  o'clock  next  morning,  witliin  a 
few  furlongs  of  the  camp,  where,  by  directing 
my  steps  towards  the  sounds  issuing   from   a 
beautiful  copse  of  woods,  I   very  soon  arrived. 
It  was  situated  on  one  side  of  a  creek  and  not  far 
from  the  foot  of  Harvestraw  mountain,  the  high 
peaks  of  which  rose  up  majestically   iu  view. 


Ther 
of  w 
perso 
Th 
in  the 
of  tr 
coursi 
and  a( 
entert 
teptec 
At  ] 
parts  o 
ducted 
piety, 
their  p 
leligioi 
some  p( 
ble  and 
of  shru^ 
whohac 
of  the  p 
most  pr 
of  the  w 
tions  of 
of  the  ( 
their  gn 
thegreal 
casion, 
t>rotliers 
upon  th< 
^Od  both 


■i: 


hold- 
straw, 

way 
lies,  I 
Ithin  a 
lecting 
•om  «i 

rived. 

Lot  far 
[ehigh 

view* 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


17 


There  were  fifty  large  and  elegant  tents,  sonne 
of  which  might  contain  upwards  of  one  hundred 
persons,  ffr    ji )i'  'i-:  • 

The  people  were  already  convened  to  seats 
in  the  middle  of  the  encampment,  by  the  sound 
of  trunfpets,  from  whence  an  excellent  dis- 
course Avas  delivered  :  after  which  they  arose 
and  adjourned  to  the  tents.  A  friend  offered  to 
entertain  me  till  next  day,  and  I  gladly  ac- 
cepted his  invitation. 

At  noon,  crowds  were  formed  over  different 
parts  of  the  ground,  and  divine  worship  was  con- 
ducted in  them,  with  a  degree  of-unexampled 
piety.  The  utmost  decorum  was  observed  in  all 
their  proceedings.  Some  unusual  actions  of  a 
religious  nature  did  indeed  transpire,  which  to 
some  persons  no  doubt,  seemed  most  unaccounta- 
ble and  ridiculous.  The  consequence  was  a  deal 
of  shrugs  and  tittering  from  the  most  impolite, 
who  had  either  forgot,  or  disregarded  the  solemnity 
of  the  place.  The  behaviour  of  this  religious  sect  is 
most  praise-worthy.  Throwing  otf  the  shackles 
of  the  world,  they  show  the  undisguised  emana- 
tions of  a  soul,  wrapt  in  the  goodness,  the  glory 
«f  the  Omnipotent,  and  express  with  holy  zeal, 
their  gratitude  for  innumerable  mercies,  and  for 
the  great  blessing  of  a  Redeemer.  Upon  these  oc- 
casion, all  distinctions  are  levelled.  They  are  all 
brothers  :  the  rich  merchant  humbles  himself 
upon  the  same  seat  with  the  poor  tradesman, 
and  both  unite  as  one  in  the  worship  of  God. 


<f  1 


o   * 


1  ' 

^    1 

\ 

Ml! 

4                     ^ 

:  *^' 

■>:■ 

1 

'■lU 

1 
i     - 

I'  'I  II 


'  '1 
<  i 


'    -. 


/   M 


i'  '.  ■■  i 


A   J 


m 


VEDESTRTAK    TOUR. 


,1, 
I' 


u 


One  instance  deserves  notice ;  an  African,  whose 
coal-black  features  glistened  with  religious  ar- 
dour, addressed  an  aged  matron,  and  asked, 
"  Sister,  are  you  happy  ?"  She  raised  berwithered 
bands  in  the  air,  and  whilst  her  palid  counte- 
nance received  a  flu«h  of  heavenly  delight,  she 
eried,  "  Yes,  bless  the  Lord,  I  am  happy."  How 
inestimable  must  those  doctrines  be,  that  can 
make  man  ha|>py  in  this  painful  transitory  life. 

In  the  meantime  I  went  to  Harvestraw,  and 
by  inquiry,  found  the  path  which  leads  to  the 
top  of  the  lofty  mountain,  back  of  that  village. 
Following  the  path  for  some  time,  I  lost  it ;  and 
climbing  in  my  own  direction,  peak  above  peak,  up 
cliffs  almost  perpendicular,  at  length  reached  the 
smooth  round  rock,  which  crowns  the  summit  of 
the  High  Torn.  The  prospect  is  truly  grand  and 
almost  indiscribable.  Here,  we  look  upon  all  the 
surrounding  country  as  a  map,  and  the  head 
grows  dizzy  with  the  height.  Elevated  eight  hun- 
dred and  (iftj-two  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
Hudson,  we  trace  the  windings  of  that  spacious 
fiver,  from  the  Piillisadoes,  to  the  middle  of 
the  Highland?,  through  which  it  passes. 
From  this  situation,  we  discover  that  our  nicest 
maps  of  the  river,  are  very  incorrect.  Ptomontc- 
ries  are  seen  jutting  into  the  bays  of  Harvestraw 
and  Tappan ;  here  the  river  l>ends,  there  it  ex- 
pands, and  then  becomes  constricCed  into  '•  a 
narrow  straight.  To  the  south  and  westward,  tlie 
hinds  are  flat  and  well  cultivated,  continuing  80^ 
ufltil  they  are  suddenly  interrupted  by  the  ridge 


oft] 

thee 

ton, 

twee; 

ward 

very  ] 

camp 

and  1 

mead( 

Des 

side,  ] 

valuab 

peak.  , 

the  mo 

cross  ir 


iii   V, 


m\ 


VEUESTRIAN    TOUR. 


W 


[lOSC 

i  ar- 

iked, 

lered 

unte- 

:,  she 

How 

t  can 

life. 

r,  and 

[O  the 

illage. 

;;  and 

eakjup 

led  the 

imit  of 

nd  and 
all  the 
J  head 

ht  hun- 
of  the 
»acious 
die  of 
passes. 
|r  nicest 
ontc- 
estraw 
|e  it  ex- 
inta  a 
ardjthe 
uing  »o^ 


of  the  Blue  Mountains.  I  recognized  a  part  of 
the  chain,  called  the  Gap,  twenty  miles  above  Fas- 
ton,  where  the  Delaware  river  finds  its  passage  be- 
tween immense  overhanging  clifl's.  To  the  cast- 
ward,  in  the  state  of  New-York,  the  country  is 
veiy  hilly.  Beneath  my  feet,  the  white  tents  of  the 
camp,  were  perceptible  in  the  little  woody  copse, 
and  the  creek  was  seen  winding  through  the 
meadows  like  a  serpent. 

Descending  the  mountain  upon  the  opposite 
side,  I  found  upon  reaching  the  foot,  that  a 
valuable  pocket  spy-glass  had  been  left  upon  the 
peak.  Again  I  commenced  the  toil  of  clambering 
the  mountain,  which,  however,  I  had  intended  to 
cross  in  a  low  part,  and  by  an  easy  path.  Believing 
I  had  gained  the  peak,  to  my  great  vexation,  I 
found  myself  upon  a  bluff  a  great  distance  to  the 
north,  with  the  High  Torn,  lifting  its  shaggy 
craigs  on  the  right,  in  the  lofty  grandeur  of  a 
superior  mountain.  I  proceeded  with  difficulty 
along  the  ridge  to  the  Torn,  and  regained  my  los^t 
article. 

I  was  now  resolved  to  go  directly  down  to  the 
village,  without  following  the  circuitous  rout,  by 
which  I  had  ascended.  The  attempt  looked 
possible.  There  were  two  old  rotten  trees,  on 
the  very  verge  of  the  columnar  cliffs,  around 
which  I  crept  to  a  place  on  the  precipice,  where, 
by  using  the  greatest  care,  holding  fast  of  twigs 
and  roots,  and  fixing  my  feet  upon  firm  founda- 
tions, I  thought  proper  to  venture.  About  one 
third  of  the  way  down,  the  descent  became  so  di- 


;     t' 


;  -I 


■1 


i'U 


>ii.i 


t 


11 


l^      f? 

*■   i 


i 


'  ji 


20 


PEDESTIllAN    TOUR. 


rect,  that  it  was  impossible  even  to  lean  back 
against  the  rocks.  Here  I  was  suddenly  stopped 
by  a  great  chasm,  which  appeared  beyond  hu- 
man power  to  descend.  To  think  of  getting  back 
was  absurd.  I  was  completely  fixed.  Comforting 
myself  with  the  old  adage,  "  man  must 
die  at  one  time  or  other,'  I  made  a  desperate 
sally,  caught  the  root  of  a  sturdy  shrub,  and  with 
i^reat  risk,  got  to  the  bottom  of  the  chasm  : 
thence  with  more  safety  I  reached  the  plain. 
When  I  looked  up,  next  morning,  as  the  sun 
shone  against  the  peak,  and  reddened  with  its 
beams,  the  angry  face  of  the  clifls,  1  perceived 
the  rotten  trees  and  the  place  of  my  descent. 
A  descent  there  appeared  utterly  impossible. 
I  pointed  the  place  to  my  friend,  who  gazed 
and  exclaimed  "  did  you  so!"  with  an  expression 
oil  his  countenance  which  indicated — I  half  be- 
lieve you  I 

At  night  the  camp  was  brilliantly  illuminated, 
und  a  sermon  was  delivered  to  an  immense  con- 
course of  people.  The  trumpets  sounded  early 
in  the  morning,  to  give  notice  lor  family  prayer 
in  the  tents.  Soon  after,  columns  of  smoke  rose 
from  the  several  fires ;  the  kettles  were  carried 
about;  and  the  long  tables  were  spread  with 
abundant  meats,  over  wliich  the  face  of  every  in- 
dividual, smiled  with  gratitude  and  content- 
ment. 

About  ten,  I  set  off  by  a  lonely  rout,  overthe 
ridges  of  the  Allegany  and  Blue  mountains,  com- 
monly called  the  Highlands.     These  mouotains. 


denor 

Unite 

Georg 

consis 

Blue,  I 

linctiv 

^ecoa 

and  inl 

from  tl 

alluvial 

»ea-8hoi 

compos 

JSiome  oi 

exhibit, 

ances  ol 

iron-ore 

will  not 

highest 

New- Be 

peaks  ari 

of  the  fi 

A  scai 

woods  aij 

I  mistoc 

the  way,! 

fhe  mouf 

Fort  Moij 

perceptil 

times,  an| 

the    warr 

delivered| 
and  chaij 


PEULSTRIAN    TOUR. 


<Stl 


denominated  by  Jefferson,  the  backbone  of  the 
United  States,  extend  from  Maine,  south-west  to 
Georj^ia  and  the  Mississippi  Territory :  they 
consist  of  the  Cumberland,  the  Allegany,  the 
Blue,  and  the  Green  Mountains,  and  other  dis- 
tinctive ridges,  all  running  in  a  line,  parallel  with 
the  coast  of  North  America.  Curious  hypotheses 
and  inferences  are  made,  respecting  the  globe, 
from  their  direction,  their  structure,  and  the  wide 
alluvial  deposits  extending  between  them  and  the 
sea-shore.  At  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson,  the 
composition  is  chiefly  granite  and  limestone. 
Some  of  the  limestone  hina  are  nearly  bare,  and 
exhibit,  after  a  shower,  very  beautiful  appear- 
ances of  blue,  white,  and  vermillion.  Magnetic 
iron-ore  abounds  in  such  quantity,  that  the  needle 
will  not  always  traverse.  The  altitude  of  the 
highest  peak  is  158.5  feet,  which  is  called  th* 
New-Beacon ;  Butter-Hill  is  1529  feet.  The 
peaks  are  very  much  diversified,  and  afford  some 
of  the  finest  prospects  in  the  world. 

A  scarcely  legible  foot-path  leads  among  the 
woods  and  rocks  to  Montgomery  Creek,  which 
I  mistook,  and  walked  three  miles  out  of 
the  way,  before  I  discovered  my  mistake.  At 
the  mouth  of  the  creek,  I  was  ferried  over  to 
Fort  Montgomer)\  The  form  of  this  fort  is  still 
perceptible.  Bullets  and  bones  are  gathered  at 
times,  and  stored  away,  as  precious  remains  of 
the  warriors  and  armour  of  the  war  wliicli 
delivered  our  country  from  oppression.  A  boom 
and  chain  were  here  thrown  across  llic  dinnnc! 


i:^ 


\ ..  *-  < 


ri: 


!  ■{ 


l'\ 


I;   .;4l 


it|'' 


1 

1 

■   i 

1 

!■ 

,  ^.  1 

4 

PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


by  the  Americans,  to  prevent  the  enemy's 
fleet  from  ascending  the  river. 

No  inn  being  at  hand,  I  stopped  at  a  little 
ferm-house,  and  considering  circumstances,  pro- 
cured a  very  comfortable  dinner.  The  lady  sat 
in  the  room,  and  conversed  with  an  ease  and 
politeness,  which  1  thought  foreign  to  an  abode  in 
the  midst  of  these  rugged  mountains.  Two  coun- 
try girls  bustled  in,  and  formed  quite  a  contrast 
to  the  pleasing  demeanour  of  my  hostess.  She 
asserted,  that  she  had  frequently  entertained, with 
the  products  of  her  little  farm  and  dairy,  parties 
of  pleasure,  who  were  now  and  then  sailing  up 
the  Hudson,  from  New- York. 

Nearly  the  whole  of  this  afternoon,  I  was  occu- 
pied in  viewing  the  works  of  West-Point.  The 
plain,  upon  the  point,  is  perfectly  level,  and  more 
than  a  mile  in  circumference.  Four  very  large 
stone  buildings  are  appropriated  to  the  Cadets, 
who  were  at  this  time  marching  from  Boston  to 
New- York.  The  church  is  capacious.  The  mess- 
house  tables,  are  of  mahogany,  and  the  uten- 
sils are  neat  and  costly.  Many  rooms  of  the  Ca- 
dets, evince  that  they  live  like  soldiei-s.  Houses 
and  tradesmens'  shops,  form  on  one  side  of  the 
plain,  quite  a  cons!aei.ible  village.  A  superb 
monument  is  raised  to  the  memory  of  Lieut. 
Col.  Wood,  who,  in  1814,  fell  at  Fort  Erie  in 
Upper  Canada;  and  another  monument  consist- 
ing (as  I  was  told)  of  365  pieces  of  marble,  is  to 
have  the  name  of  every  Cadet  inscribed  upon  it, 
at  his  death.     The  old  barracks  of  the  regulars, 


are  in  i 
grace  t< 
militar 
On  t 
remains 
tlement 
magnifii 
thick  bu 
about  th 
fortress  < 
in  height 
€>f  arche 
walls,  so 
seem  to  1 
soldiers, 
place  in 
holes  faci 
from  the 
looms.  T 
of  brick ; 
by  the cur 
mason- w( 
hind  the 
within,  by 
remains  o 
upon  the 
of  feldspj 
or  tourmi 
of  the  riv 
The  wo 
sage  of  the 
«uid  most 


i 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


23 


ny  8 

little 
pro- 
^  sat 

and 
de  in 
:oun- 
ntrast 

She 
jwith 
arties 
ig  up 

occu- 
The 
more 
large 
adets, 
ton  to 
mesB- 
uten- 
leCa- 
louses 
of  the 
superb 
Lieut. 
Irie  in 
lonsist- 
e,  is  to 
pon  it, 
ulars. 


;ire  in  a  ruinous  condition,  and  stand  as  a  dis- 
grace to  the  neatness  and  regularity  of  this  great 
military  establishment. 

On  the  mountain  above  West-Point  are  the 
remains  of  Fort  Putnam.  The  mouldering  bat- 
tlements still  show  an  appearance  of  warlike 
magnificence,  overtoping  the  craggy  rocks,  the 
thick  bushes,  and  encroaching  vines,  which  hang 
about  the  basis.  Fort  Putnam  was  the  strongest 
fortress  on  the  river.  Its  walls  were  thirty  feet 
in  height,  and  the  same  in  thickness.  A  number 
©f  arched  rooms  or  vaults,  were  made  in  the 
walls,  some  of  which  have  not  yet  caved  in,  and 
seem  to  have  been  capable  of  holding  each  forty 
soldiers,  in  the  greatest  security.  There  is  a  fire- 
place in  the  end  of  each  vault,  and  two  square 
holes  facing  the  river.  It  is  eight  feet  and  a  half 
from  the  outside  of  the  fort,  to  the  inside  of  the 
rooms.  The  arches  are  thirty  inches  through,  and 
of  brick ;  parts  of  which  are  often  conveyed  away 
by  the  curious,  as  relics  of  inestimable  value.  The 
mason-work  of  the  walls,  towards  the  land  be- 
hind the  fort,  is  six  feet  in  thickness,  supported 
within,  by  embankments.  In  the  middle  are  the 
remains  of  the  magazines.  Fort  Putnam  stands 
upon  the  irregular  surface  of  a  rock,  composed 
of  feldspar  and  large  crystals  of  black  shorl 
or  tourmaline,  six  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  river.  ; 

The  works  of  West-Point  command  the  pas- 
sage of  the  Hudson,  in  a  part,  the  most  contracted 
and  most  difficult  of   navigation.    The  situa- 


n 
a 


f-:  ■  ■ 


;  ) 
'  i 


1 


.'  1 


■"/:l' 


.,>*i 


r«i 


I'  u 


u 


PEDESTRIAN    TOVA. 


.     11 


I 

I, 

i 
f 

if 

'      \ 

e 

! 

■'       f 

f 

I  !         f 


\ 

I 

1   ■ 

h; 

lion  is  extremely  romantic,  .ind  the  surrounding 
scenery  picturesque  and  astonishingly  sublime. 
It  was  this  important  post,  which  General  Ar- 
nold attempted  to  put  into  the  possession  of  Sir 
Henry  Clinton  in  1780.  Though  a  brilliant  ofii- 
rcr,  Arnold  through  his  extravagance,  defrauded 
the  public,  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  his  credi- 
tors. Disgusted  with  the  just  reproaches  which 
he  received,  he  resolved  to  go  over  to  the  British, 
and  that  advantageously.  Overtures  were  made, 
and  Major  John  Andre,  Adjutant-general  to  the 
British  army,  was  sent  by  Sir  Henry,  to  nego- 
tiate with  the  treacherous  Arnold.  He  was 
rowed  ashore  under  cover  of  night,  from  a  sloop 
of  war  in  the  river,  and  was  met  by  General 
Arnold,  who  delivered  into  his  hands,  plans  of 
the  fortifications,  and  accounts  of  the  number  of 
men,  ordinance  and  artillery,  necessary  for  their 
defence.  The  conference  continued  so  long, 
that  Andre,  who  could  not  retreat  in  day-light, 
was  obliged  to  conceal  himself  in  company  with 
Arnold,  until  the  ensuing  evening.  The  men 
who  rowed  him  ashore,  now  refused  to  venture 
with  him  back  to  the  sloop  of  war,  on  account  of 
the  danger  from  the  American  cannon.  Major 
Andre,  was  in  consequence,  compelled  to  as- 
sume a  fictitious  name,  and  in  a  disguised 
habit,  return  by  land.  Upon  the  boun- 
daries of  the  American  lines,  on  his  way  to 
New- York,  three  men  sprang  from  the  woods  and 
arrested  ijim  for  a  spy.  In  vain,  he  offered 
money  and  promised  rewards,  if  they  would  let 


im|5 
me. 

Ar- 
Sir 

offi- 

ided 

redi- 

rhicU 

itish, 

nade, 

o  the 

nego- 
was 

sloop 

eneral 

ins  of 

ber  of 
their 
long, 

-light, 
with 
men 
nture 
untof 
Major 
to  as- 
lauised 
boun- 
iay    to 
ids  and 
fered 
let 


PI 

,55 


•«. 


f.  i- 


If 


I 


him  pi 

pass  ii 

Point, 

concea 

He  wai 

as  a  sp; 

Major . 

detecti< 

his  terr 

drove  t( 

before  c 

ceived  li 

in  New 

The 

northen 

day,  wi 

spread  in 

The  dus 

in  the  h( 

hailed  tl 

villages, 

Nothing 

a  cow-be 

dren  spoi 

ing  abov< 

women, } 

broken   f 

continual 

beginning 

The  rO( 

Canterbui 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUIl. 


t^ 


him  proceed.  Taken  in  the  night,  with  ArnoldTi 
pass  in  his  pocket  book,  and  plans  of  West- 
Point,  with  accounts  of  its  situation  and  strength, 
concealed  in  his  boots,  he  could  not  dissimulate. 
He  was  seized,  tried  by  martial  law,  and  hung 
as  a  spy.  Such  was  the  fate  of  the  unfortunate 
Major  Andre.  A  mold,  as  soon  as  he  heard  of  his 
detection,  was  struck  with  astonishment,  and  in 
his  terror  and  agitation,  he  called  for  a  horse,  and 
drove  to  the  beach,  down  a  craggy  steep,  never 
before  explored  on  horseback,  where  a  barge  re- 
ceived him  and  conveyed  him,  to  the  British  army 
in  New- York. 

The  sun  shone  clear,  as  I  descended  the 
northern  slope  of  the  Highlands,  on  the  ensuing 
day,  with  the  fertile  plains  of  Orange  county, 
spreading  to  an  extensive  distance  before  me. 
The  dusky  range  of  the  Kaatskill  mountains  rose 
in  the  horizon:  and  with  pleasing  sensations,  I 
hailed  the  perspicuous  spires  of  the  numerous 
villages,  which  were  scattered  in  the  prospect. 
Nothing  but  rocks  and  woods,  with  here  and  there 
a  CO w-beii  jingling  among  the  trees,  ragged  chil- 
dren sporting  in  the  dirt,  a  few  blades  of  corn  ris- 
ing above  half  burnt  stumps  of  trees,  men  and 
women,  haggard  and  tawny,  peeping  through  the 
broken  panes  of  their  only  window,  formed  a 
continual  scene  in  the  mountains,  of  which  I  was 
beginning  to  grow  weary. 

The  road  passes  through  the  little  villages  of 
Canterbury  and  New-Windsor,  to  Newburgh, 
afery  large  and  important  market-town,  through 


f.i 


A 


\i 

it 

'   ,'■ 

i 

1 

':Mm 


36' 


FEOeSTRlAX    TOUK* 


•  I 


i  ' 


r 


4! 


;(, 


I'n 


;  I 


which,  a  considerable  trade  is  carried  on,  between 
the  western  tracts  and  the  city  of  New-York- 
The  turnpike  leading  from  this  to  Ithaca,  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  state.  Montgomery  is  a  village 
twelve  miles  from  Newburgh,  situated  on  the 
turnpike  at  the  river  Wallkill,  where  it  is  remarka- 
ble, what  attempts  the  enterprising  inhabitants 
have  made,  towards  improvement  and  grandeur  in 
the  style  of  their  buildingn.  Some  of  the  houses 
are  large  and  fashionable ;  but,  unluckily,  paint 
was  scarce,  and  glaziers  were  nowhere  to  be  pro- 
cured ;  so  that  the  line  mouldings  and  window- 
shutters  remain  in  their  pristine  hues,  stained 
with  iron  rust  fi'om  bolts  and  heads  of  nails  ;  and 
the  sashes,  as  fast  as  the  panes  are  broken,  are 
carefully  fastened  up  with  shingles  and  pine 
boards,  giving  the  whole  edifice  a  very  admirable 
variety  in  its  appearance.  One  in  particular,  three 
stories  high,  having  six  windows  in  front  of  each 
gtory,  was  found  by  the  occupants  rather  too  ex- 
pensive to  be  kept  in  repair,  and  therefore  had 
been  suffered  to  go  into  decay  ;  after  all  the  win- 
dows had  been  closed  with  boards,  except  in  one 
corner  of  the  building,  where  the  lords  of  the 
mansion  discovered,  that  light  sufficient  could 
be  admitted  through  five  solitary  remaining 
panes. 

I  continued  until  late  at  night,  travelling  very 
speedily  on  a  narrow  road  towards  the  Never- 
sink,  (a  river  which  falls  into  the  Delaware,)  about 
thirty-six  miles  from  Newburgh,  where  a  particu- 
lar friend  of  mine  resided,  whom,  I  was  desirou* 


of  visii 
(ain,  t^ 
that  tl 
about 
but  oti 
formati 
tale  to 
ginatioi 
without 
bushes, 
catamoi 
into  the 
I  arrive< 
where   ] 
formed  i 
thers  ha 
but  that 
that  nig 
cleared 
elevatior 
^'"iij  grai 
I  was 
tality,  at 
banks  of 
together, 
blast  or  fc 
rect  line, 
taking  ac 
ture,  was 
which  it  h 

OftMoi 
a.  forest  o 
wafl  b^ii 


f 


are 


win- 
one 
If  the 

:ouUl 
lining 

verj 
I  ever- 

ibout 
Irticu- 

irou* 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUB.  2| 

of  Tisiting.  A  rriving  at  the  foot  of  Shongo  moun- 
lain,  two  men  stopped   me,  and   inforaicd  me. 
that  there   was  a  panther  prowling  soujewhcrc 
about  the  mountain,  and  that  not  only   they, 
but  other  persons  had  heard  its  yell.    This  in- 
formation a  little  startled  me  ;  but  believing  tiic 
tale  to  be  a  fiction,  or  at  most  the  efl'ect  of  ima- 
gination,   I  proceeded  onward  ;  not  however, 
without   metamorphosing,   through    the  gloom, 
bushes,  stumps  and  stones,  into   wide-inout!\ed 
catamounts,  and  construeing  every  distant  sound 
into  the  dismal  scream  of  tliat  voracious  animal. 
I  arrived  at  an  Inn  upon  the  top  of  the  mountam, 
where   I  concluded  to  stop.     The  lamllord  in- 
formed me,  that  it  was  several  years  since  pan^ 
thers  had  visited  the  woody  regions  of  Shongo, 
but  that  he  had  actually  heard  the  screams  of  one 
that  night.     Fires  were   glowing   from  the  new 
cleared  lands  upon  the  plains,  which  from  this 
elevation,  in  the  dead  silence  of  night,  looked  aw- 
fully grand. 

I  was  received  by  my  friend  with  great  hospi- 
tality, at  his  farm  situated  upon  the  luxuriant 
banks  of  the  Neversink.  We  made  an  excursion 
together,  to  a  part  of  the  forest,  where  a  sudden 
blast  or  tornado  had  ripped  up  the  trees  in  a  di- 
rect line,  for  a  very  great  distance ;  and  the  owner, 
taking  advantage  of  this  terrible  operation  of  na- 
ture, was  milking  an  excellent  road,  on  the  course 
which  it  had  taken,  with  scarcely  any  diificulty. 

OftMonday,  I  walked  to  Rochester,  traversing 
a,  forest  of  thirty-three  miles,  where  agriculture 
wa^  beginning  to  re;^r    the  standard  of  plenty 


i 


%■: 


(. 


1  "i| 


i  I 


I 


I. 

f :  ' 


\    i 

,1 :; 
i.! 


1. '! 


r 


itiit: 


^ 


28 


PEDESTftlAN    TOUR. 


above  the  logs,  in  a  few  detached  acres  of  cleared 
land.  An  eclipse  of  the  sun  took  place  in  the 
morning,  but  the  clouds  prevented  its  being  seen. 
The  dwellings  of  the  inhabitants  are  mere  log  hut»; 
they  appeared  so  rejoiced  at  seeing  a  new  face 
among  them,  that  they  almost  stopped  me,  to 
converse,  and  show  me  the  great  improvements 
they  had  made,  and  were  making  in  the  wil- 
derness. Millet  is  sown  here  in  considerable 
quantities.  \    .      .    •  '        .     i 

At  Warsink  was  one  of  the  most  delightful  val- 
lies,  I  had  ever  descended:  the  hills  rose  in 
graceful  sublimity,  crowned  with  the  lofty  hem- 
lock and  fir ;  creeks  and  rivulets  foamed  among 
the  rocks  at  the  bottom  of  obscure  glens ;  whilst 
the  broad  side  of  the  highest  ridge  of  Shongo 
mountain,  appeared  in  front,  like  a  great  screen 
to  oppose  the  rays  of  a  morning  sun.  The  in- 
habitants of  the  luxuriant  and  highly  cultivated 
vale,  which  extends  north-easterly  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  towards  Kingston  or  Esopus,  are 
descendants  of  the  Dutch ;  they  are  old  pos- 
sessors, and  have  chosen,  as  they  were  the  original 
settlers  of  the  State  of  New- York,  the  very 
richest  districts  of  the  country.  Here  are  no 
half-burnt  trees  to  disfigure  the  fields,  and  no  log- 
houses,  (though  sufficiently  comfortable  inside) 
to  impress  the  beholder  with  disgust,  at  their 
wretched,  and  uncouth  exterior.  Approaching 
from  the  west,  we  find  ourselves,  upon  a  sudden 
surrounded  with  farms,  which  have  been  brduj^t 
to  the  greatest  perfection.  Broad  meaddwe  ar^ 
seen  stocked  with  fine  cattle ;  the  ruddy  frttit 


drop! 
trees, 
are  f] 
In 
bletov 
minin 
cesafu 
in  suf] 
millsti 
^'actux4 
Esopu 
quarry 
has  be< 
receive 
manufa 
Henry 
with  se 
Esop 
taste, 
which  t 
Genera 
Clinton 
iug  dev; 
fine  vill 
<^ommar 

The 
and  bir 
to  west 
face  Qf 
int^resti 

Jnte^ald 


:< 


^f 


PEIXESTRIAN    TOUR. 


29 


ired 

the 
een. 
iut»; 
face 
s  to 
»ents 

wil- 
rable 

'  f  ■■-■■  ^  I*- 

■     L. 

IvaU 

se  in 

hem- 

mong 

wrhilst 

tiongo 

icreen 

le  in- 

ivated 

5ot  of 

s,  are 
pos- 
iginal 
very 
re  no 
lolog- 
nside) 
:  their 
aching 
udden 
ough 
g  a: 
friiit 


s 


drops  from  overloaded  boughs  of  pear  £^nd  ap^plQ 
trees,  whilst  peaches  and  plums,  and  other  fruitt, 
are  flourishing  in  exuberant  plenty.   *.  vr 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Rochester  and  Mar^ 
bletown,  many  attempts  have  hem  made  at 
mining ;  most  of  which,  however,  were  unsuc- 
cessful, as  lead-ore  and  sulphur  were  not  procured 
in  sufficient  quantities  ta  defray  the  costs.  But 
millstone  is  obtained  from  the  bills,  and  manu*- 
lactured  advantageously.  Within  three  miles  of 
£sopus,  through  which  I  passed  the  next  day,. a 
quarry  of  very  beautiful  l^eterogeneous  marble 
has  been  discovered,  which  contains  shells  and 
receives  a  very  high  and  elegant  polish.  A 
manufactory  of  this  marble  is  carried  on  by  Mr. 
Henry  Darley,  at  Esopus,  who  presented  me 
with  several  specimens. 

Esopus  is  a  large  village,  built  in  the  Dutch 
taste,  and  having  a  capacious  court-house,  iu 
which  the  court  was  at  thia  time  sitting.  When 
General  Vaughan,  acting  under  the  orders  of 
Clinton,  in  1777,  sailed  up  the  Hudson,  spread- 
ing devastation  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  this 
fme  village,  among  o&er  settlements,  was  by  his 
<!ommand,  reduced  to  ashes.       ' 

The  sky  was  overclouded,  the  air  was  cold, 
and  birds  were  winging  their  flight  from  east 
to  w^t,  03  I  hurried  towards  Kaatskill.  The 
faqe  of  nature  assumed  a  more  than  usually 
interesting  feature.  The  lofty  mountains  of 
y^{Ml(|k*ll,  were  seen  through  the  mist,  and  at 
int^firaif,  as  thi^  wind  scattered  the  clouds  from 

3  * 


!: 


■'f  ><    km 


-f. 


j^    I     M  % 


.   . 


i'  ! 


h 


!fi;i 


n 
I'll 


30 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


around  their  summits,  they  showed  their  higl^ 
and  rugged  peaks,  in  a  clear  defmeabie  outline. 
On  my  right,  the  waters  of  the  Hudson,  were 
pleasingly  ruffled,  and  the  dark  umbrage  of  trees 
wavertd  upon  its  banks.  Nearer  by,  the  blast 
shrilly  whistled  among  the  pine  trees  and  cedars. 
All  portended  a  storm.  I  had  not  proceeded 
far  beyond  Kaatskill,  which  is  a  splendid  and 
very  busy  village,  when  it  began  to  rain  exces- 
sively fast.  Well  provided  against  such  changes, 
I  kept  on  my  journey,  walking,  in  some  parts, 
where  the  rain  had  rendered  the  soil  extremely 
tenacious,  and  made  travelling  very  diiiicult 
Passing  successively  through  Athens  or  Lower 
Purchase,  Lunenburgh  or  Upper  Purdiase,  Cox- 
sackie,  and  New-Baltimore,  I  at  length  stopped 
at  an  Inn,  within  twelve  miles  of  Albany ;  and 
next  day  (Thursday)  at  eleven,  I  entered  with  no 
small  degree  of  pleasure,  the  capital  of  the 
State  of  New- York,  and  the  scene  of  very  many 
important  transactions.  '  •  -  v^  •  .  >  :  .:  ^ 
Albany  is  compactly  built.  There  is  one 
wide  street,  however,  which  runs  directly  up  the 
hill,  upon  the  side  of  which  the  city  is  situated, 
and  is  terminated  at  the  top  by  a  noble  edifice, 
called  the  Capitol :  this  is  State-street.  I  as- 
cended to  the  Capitol,  and  obtained  from  the 
summit  of  the  roof,  an  extensive  view  of  the 
town,  the  country,  adjacent  villages,  and  the 
Hudson  river,  with  its  woody  banks  and  beau* 
tiful  islands. .  Officers  were  here  busily  engaged^ 
in  conveying  bills,  documents,  and  other  »tete_ 


papers 

of  the 

Conve 

mence 

month, 

which 

leisure, 

These 

stood  i] 

dent's  8 

ratus  fo] 

portrait 

hung  in 

adorned 

plant    . 

was  allot 

also  assi^ 

for  ladies 

For  th( 

into  the 

moral  pic 

exhibiting 

and  execi 

but   alleg 

satisfactio 

as  are  m( 

room  in  th 

In  the 
Cook's  rea 
jroe  of  ( 
ibmry,  its 
supply  of 


^4i 


i<M 


tne. 
^ere 
rees 
>la8t 
lars. 
jded 
and 
tces- 
ngesr 
jarts, 
jmely 
icult. 
^ower 
,Cox- 
opped 
;  and 
ithno 
f  the 
many 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUH. 


dt 


slate 


papers,  in  large  baskets,  from  the  great  chamber 
of  the  assembly,  to  an  adjoining  apartment.  The 
Convention  of  New- York,  which  had  com- 
menced sitting  in  Albany  on  the  29th  of  this 
month,  had  adjourned  a  few  hours  previous, 
which  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  examining  at 
leisure,  the  decorations  of  the  assembly  room. 
These  were  superb.  Rows  of  mahogany  desks 
stood  in  circular  phalanges,  around  the  Presi- 
dent's seat,  each  provided  with  paper  and  appa^- 
ratus  for  writing.  On  the  wall,  was  a  full  length 
portrait  of  General  Washington.  Maps  were 
hung  in  different  parts,  and  the  <ire-places  were 
adorned  with  green  branches  of  the  asparagus 
plant  A  portion  of  the  chamber,  at  the  doors, 
was  allotted  to  strangers :  a  gallery  above  it  was 
also  assigned  for  spectators,  and  one-third  of  it 
for  ladies. 

For  the  sum  of  25  cents,  I  obtained  admission 
into  the  Senate  chamber,  where  Peale*s  great 
moral  picture  of  the  Court  of  Death  was  then 
exhibiting.  This  picture  is  extremely  large 
and  executed  in  a  superior  style  of  painting ; 
but  allegorical  paintings  do  not  give  that  solid 
j  satisfaction,  which  is  generally  received  from  such 
I  as  are  more  allied  to  real  nature.  The  court 
|room  in  the  Capitol,  is  large  and  elegant. 

In  the  evening,  I  spent  an  hour  or  two  in 

|Cook*8  reading  room,  which  has  acquired  some 

jdegree  of  celebrity,  on  account  of  its  excellent 

fibmry,  its  fresh  mineral  waters,  and  its  regular 

mpply  of  newi^papers  from  every  part  of  the 


I 


I  V  .; 


I  ! 


h'; 


it 


32 


PEDESTRIAN    TO  UK* 


1 1 


'!;•;.    ? 


I.  •■' 


United  States,  The  table  in  the  middle  of  the 
room,  was  surrounded  by  elderly  gentlemen, 
delegates  to  the  convention,  silently  intent  upon 
the  papers  and  volumes  before  them. 

According  to  my  engagement  nextmonuog 
with  Mr.  T — ,  to  whom  I  had,  a  letter,  I 
took  breakfast  at  his  house,  and  at  eleven,  went 
with  him  to  the  Capitol.  Nearly  all  the  mem- 
bers were  there ;  and  the  gallery  was  very  much 
crowded.  Upon  the  entrance  of  the  President, 
great  decorum  and  order  was  observed,  and  the 
delegates  took  off  their  hats.  All  in  the  house 
standing  up,  prayers  were  solemnly  read  by  a 
reverend  clergyman ;  after  which,  the  President 
assuming  the  elevated  chair,  and  knocking  with 
a  little  mallet  upon  the  table,  the  business  of 
the  convention  commenced.  The  House  having 
merely  assented  to  the  choice,  which  the  Presi- 
dent had  made  of  a  committee  of  arrangements, 
immediately  adjourned,  until  four  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon. 

At  the  hour  appointed  in  the  afternoon, 
they  proceeded  to  business.  A  bill  was  pre- 
sented,  which  proposed  the  appointment  of  ten 
committees,  each  of  whom  were  to  inspect  respec- 
tive sections  of  the  constitution  of  the  State,  and 
report  what  alterations  were  necessary  ip  be  made. 
It  was  passed.  A  dead  silence  prevailed,  until 
a  member  proposed  an  adjournment.  A  fierce 
discussion  now  began,  relative  to  the  time  to  which 
they  should  adjourn.  Some  proposed  c^e  h((^ 
and  some  proposed  another ;  and  several  speeches 


were  i 
upon  0 
that  th( 
venient 
would 
ned  to  h 
arguniei 
dinner, 
select  th 
the  Pres 
would  hi 
from  Ne 
meeting] 
would  ac 
ded  on  tJ 
journmer 
next  day 
again  divi 
fifty  agair 
This  sho 
play     8or 
of  their  re 
best  talen 
Albany 
It  is  a  pla 
of  eminen 
view  of  it 
the  water ; 
and  dignifi 
near  whic 
many  thou 


■ . ' 


I 


[i  *  f 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


33 


the 
nen, 
ipon 

rutOg 
3r,  I 
went 
nem- 
tnuch 
ident, 
id  the 
house 

by  a 
!sid«nt 
ig  with 
ness  of 
paving 

Presi- 
ments, 

in  the 

irnoon. 
|as  ptt" 
of  ten 
Irespec- 
|te,  and 
made. 
,  until 
fierce 
^owbich 
ieh<)it»r) 


were  made  upon  the  occasion.  It  was  urged 
upon  one  side,  with  many  powerful  arguments, 
that  the  hour  last  proposed  was  extremely  incon- 
venient, since  the  delegates  generally  at  that  time, 
would  finished  their  dinners,  and  be  more  incli- 
ned to  bodily  repose  than  mental  exertion.  Many 
arguments  were  urged  against  any  hour  before 
dinner,  as  the  President  would  not  be  able  to 
select  the  committees  at  so  early  an  hour  ;  and 
the  President  himself  intimated,  that  a  later  houv 
would  be  more  agreeable.  A  celebrated  delegate 
from  New-York,  hoped  that  the  usual  hour  of 
meeting  might  not  be  altered  ;  others  hoped  they 
would  adjourn  until  Monday.  The  house  divi- 
ded on  this  question,  and  it  was  negatived.  Ad- 
journment was  then  proposed  to  one  o'clock  the 
next  day.  After  much  discussion,  the  house 
again  divided,  and  the  numbers  were  found  to  be 
fifty  against,  and  seventy  in  favour  of  one  o'clock. 
This  shows  that  our  sages  and  law-givers  can 
play  sometimes,  as  well  as  the  excellency 
of  their  resolutions  and  laws,  proves  that  the  very 
best  talents  are  frequently  exerted.  r  - 

Albany  is  about  150  miles  from  New- York, 
It  is  a  place  of  great  trade  ;  is  the  resort  of  men 
of  eminence  and  people  of  fashion.  The  finest 
view  of  it,  is  obtained  by  approaching  it  from 
the  water ;  when  it  appears  populous,  extensive, 
and  dignified.  Gre^nbush  lies  opposite  the  river^ 
near  which  are  barracks  capable  of  holding 
many  thousand  soldiers,      •  '^  -  .'.•;:;';    *  r;^'' 


—    .-Vi-* 


i  ■ 


4\y^i 


ht- 


'C 


34 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


;  > 


\ 


!  •  '■'. 

■i  li- 


ft.'!:, 


I  "ii; 


••It  1 

ft 


?!■ 

1% 

i  '■: 

i 


iiS 


;;•] 


CHAPTER  II. 


I  ROiM  ALBANV,  THROUGH  SARATOGA     AND  liALLSTON  SPA; 

TOUTICA. 


Saturday  September  Ist.  1821. 


Notwithstanding  the  rain,  which  fell  in 
showers  on  Saturday  morning,  I'  left  Albany, 
and  walking  over  a  meadow,  extending  along 
the  west  side  of  the  Hudson  river,  northward, 
I  came  within  sight  of  the  large  commercial 
village  of  Troy,  which  has  been  so  lately  devas- 
tated by  fire,  but  which  has  now  nearly  recovered 
its  former  splendour.  A  miserable  line  of  houses, 
dignified,  however,  by  a  large  and  magnificent 
state  armoury,  lies  opposite  Troy,  and  is  called 
Watervlit :  I  passed  through  it,  and  twelve  miles 
from  Albany,  approached  the  mouth  of  the 
Mohawk  river. 

Here  are  two  islands,  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Hudson  and  Mohawk,  upon  which  General 
Schuyler,  encamped  the  American  troops  in 
1777,  in  their  retreat  from  the  British  army  un- 
der General  Burgoyne. 

From  a  very  lengthy  covered  bridge,  which 
'•rosses  the  Mohawk,  near  the  mouth,  a  fine 
view  is  obtained  of  the  great  f&lis,  the  Cahoes. 
The  dryness  of  the    season    had    made    the 


volume 

seldom 

this  nat 

The  st] 

which  e] 

where  i\ 

scent  is 

a  slope  i 

feet  snov 

ver,  whi< 

and  so  is 

pletely  c 

may  walk 

below  the 

stand  in 


ff 


'  ( 


place  whe 
Not   fa 
which  is  ] 
stores  witl 
great  hois 
of  the  roof 
navigable, 
current  is  ( 
are  not  so 
passing  ov( 
river,  at  W 
Continui 
grounds  at 
son  rolling, 
thescattere 
scene  of  one 
revolutiona 


.'t  I 


PEDESTKIAN    TOUR. 


3j 


<i     SPA; 


ell    in 
Ibany, 
along 
iward, 
nercial 
devas-  I 
lovered 
houses, 
liticent 
5  called 
e  miles 
of  the 


J,  which 
a    fine 

ide    the 


volume  of  water  extremely  thin  ;  yet  I  wa? 
seldom  more  astonished  with  a  spectacle  oi 
this  nature,  than  I  was  at  the  first  siglit  of  this. 
The  stream  pours  over  an  even  ledge  of  rocks, 
which  extends  in  one  straight  line  across  the  river, 
where  it  is  more  than  1000  feet  wide.  The  de- 
scent is  70  feet,  not  perpendicular,  but  in  such 
a  slope  as  to  ruffle  the  water,  and  give  it  a  per- 
fect snow-white  appearance.  The  bed  of  the  ri- 
ver, which  is  an  argillaceous  schist,  is  exposed, 
and  so  is  the  face  of  the  fails,  which  is  never  com- 
pletely covered  except  in  a  freshet.  A  person 
may  walk  quite  across  the  river,  either  above  or 
below  the  falls.  Three  men  were  at  this  moment 
standing  under  them,  who  looked,  from  the 
place  where  I   viewed  them,  like  mere  pigmies. 

Not  far  hence  is  the  village  of  VVaterford, 
which  is  made  somewhat  singular,  by  its  brick 
stores  with  their  gables  facing  the  street,  and 
great  hoisting  machines  projecting  from  the  peaks 
of  the  roofs.  Beyond  this  the  Hudson  nver  is  not 
navigable,  except  in  a  few  places,  where  the 
current  is  deep  and  smooth.  The  rapids  however 
are  not  so  dangerous,  as  to  prevent  rafts  from 
passing  over  them  An  elegant  bridge  crosses  the 
river,  at  Waterford,  upon  three  substantial  piers. 

Continuing  over  a  level  bottom,  with  high 
grounds  at  a  distance  on  my  left,  and  the  Hud- 
son rolling  on  my  right,  I  came  in  the  evening  to 
the  scattered  village  of  Stillwater,  the  well  known 
scene  of  one  of  the  most  important  events  of  thr 
revolutioDaiy  war.   Burgoyne*s  retree^  from  this 


,» .'■ 


i' 


I  ia 


36 


F£D£STRIAN    tOUK* 


i 


t 


place,  was  probably,  the  preservation  of  the 
States  of  New-England.  He  had  been  sent  with 
a  powerful  army,  stores,  artillery,  and  the  va- 
rious engines  of  war  necessary  for  a  momentous 
expedition,  from  St.  John's  in  Lower  Canada, 
under  a  design  of  cutting  oft'  every  communicp- 
tion  of  the  southern,  with  the  eastern  states, 
which  were  considered,  as  the  soul  of  ilie  revo- 
lution in  America.  The  British  general.  Sir 
Henry  Clinton,  was  to  meet  him  at  Albany, 
from  New-York,  and  join  in  reducing  the  strong- 
est posts  in  these  quarters.  He  advanced  and 
swept  all  before  him.  Crown-point,  Ticonderoga, 
Mount-Independence,  Fort  George,  Fort  Ed- 
ward, all  were  compelled  to  yield  to  his  pro- 
gress, and  victory  hovered  over  his  exulting 
army,  until  he  approached  Saratoga,  within  a 
few  miles  of  Stillwater.  i         •       f.t,-    , 

The  river  winds  in  its  course,  and  after  mean- 
dering through  the  flatlands  of  the  valley,  here 
bends  and  runs  within  sixty  yards  of  the  foot  of 
some  high  hills  or  embankments,  which  are  now 
called  Beemis'  Heights,  With  a  sensation 
of  awe,  I  slowly  paced  the  road  to  the  spot, 
where  our  forefathers  fought  and  conquered.  The 
names  of  the  victorious  heros,  crowded  upon  my 
recollection,  like  the  glittering  stars  in  the  sky, 
which  then  enabled  me,  to  survey  the  ambigu- 
ous outline  of  the  landscape.  There  is  an  Inn 
under  the  heights,  where  with  the  remembrance 
of  the  deeds,  which  transpired  on  these 
grounds^  I  contented  myself  to  repose. 


Th. 
who 
tionar 
spicuc 
leered 
battle, 
knowh 
circum 
the  des 
soldier! 
the  hist 
We  J 
be  seer 
zeal,  tc 
dences 
ceeding 
sod  of 
he  swea 
antiqua 
he  exhi 
indepen 
whose  g 
Wher 
place,  ai 
a  bridg< 
ffnd  disf 
to  stop 
Jiad  bo^f 
^ons,  t\ 
Hies  coi 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


*> 


BATTLE    OF    BEEMIS*    HEIGHTS.  ?*,♦ 


<h' 


The  next  morning  the  son  of  the  innkeeper, 
who  was  himself  one  of  our  old  revolu- 
tionary warriors,  and  had  stood  somewhat  per- 
spicuous upon  this  memorable  occasion,  volun- 
teered his  services  as  my  guide  to  the  fields  of 
battle.  The  young  man  had  acquired  a  perfect 
knowledge  of  every  part  of  the  ground,  and  every 
circumstance  of  the  engagements,  not  only  from 
the  descriptions  of  his  father,  and  other  venerable 
soldiers,  but  also  from  an  attentive  perusal  of 
the  histories  of  the  war. 

We  ascended  the  hill.    Few  vestiges  are  to 
be  seen ;  the  plough  has  strove  with  invidious 
zeal,  to  destroy  even  these  few  remaining  evi- 
dences of  revolutionary    heroism.     Each  suc- 
ceeding year,  the  agriculturist  turns  afresh  the 
sod  of  the  weather-beaten  breastworks,  and  as 
he  sw;eats  and  toils,  to  the  great  anguish  of  the 
antiquarian,  to  level  alike  mounds  and  ditches, 
he  exhibits  the  peaceful  effects  of  that  liberty  and 
independence,  which  those  have  procured,  over 
whose  graves  he  tramples. 
.    When   General   Burgoyne  advanced  to  this 
place,  after  crossing  the  Hudson  at  Saratoga,  by 
a  bridge  of  boats,  he  found  instead  of  a  flying 
ffnd  dispirited  enemy,  a  large  and  resolute  army 
to  stop  his  farther  progress.    General  Burgoyne 
jhad  boosted  before  the  British  house  of  Com- 
mons, thatj  with  four  thousand  men,  the  Colo- 
nies could  be  reduced  in  to  subjection.    Wore 


ii 


■'i* 


«'■■ 


iff 


li'ii 


,i         -1 


,.l 


38 


PEDESTRIAM    TOUH. 


.  V 


^•1' 


r; ' 


than  twice  that  number,  were'now  enlisted  under 
his  banners,  resolute  and  brave  veteran  soldiers, 
who  were  already  beginning  to  suffer  all  the 
distress  and  fatigue,  attendant  upon  an  embar- 
rassed army.  Harassed  by  the  A  merican  scouts, 
shortened  in  the  usual  allowance  of  provisions, 
and  enclosed  in  a  narrow  valley,  with  an  impas- 
sable river  on  one  side,  hills  and  thick  forests  on 
the  other,  the  American  axmy  under  General 
Gates  facing  them  in  front,  and  a  road  so  broken 
in  their  rear,  as  to  allow  little  hopes  of  an  easy 
returning  march ;  this  mighty  host,  which  came 
thundering  from  the  north,  with  a  most  formida- 
ble train  of  heavy  brass  artillery,  stores  and 
equipments,  now  shrunk  from  an  army  of  un- 
tutored militia. 

Above  the  heights  are  level  plains,  which 
at  that  time  were  xwirtly  cleared  and  called  Free- 
man's farm.  Here  the  conflicting  armies  met. 
They  fought  from  three  in  the  afternoon 
(Sept.  19th.  1777,)  until  day  closed  upon  the 
bloody  scene,  xmd  obliged  the  combatants 
to  separate. 

Though  the  British  claimed  the  victory,  no 
advantages  resulted  to  them,  from  this  engage- 
ment. Both  armies  began  to  throw  up  entrench-^ 
ments,  and  fortify  their  camps  in  the  strongest 
possible  manner. 

The  field  of  battle  extends  one  mile  back 
from  the  road  by  the  river.  The  entrenchments 
of  the  two  camps  can  to  this  day  be  traced, 
almost  razed  in  Bome  places,  and  in  o&en  over* 


;«rowr 

iine  ol 

Amer 

and  ei 

the  bn 

redoul 

Ameri 

and  ri) 

a  buck 

parape 

a    mile 

farm-h< 

of  the 

farm-he 

ready  t< 

tempori 

the  eng 

into    a 

wounde 

My 
vated 
taking, 
a  luxuri 
rounded 
pointed 
said  he, 
stood  w 
and  then 
a  brass 
taken  frc 
of  the  i 
fitting,  0 


I    ■ 


[«.tf  J  ■...4^.-^0::^ 


back 
mente 
traced, 

over* 


^EDESTKIAN    TOUR. 


3M 


;«rown  with  bushes  and  tall  forest  trees.  The 
line  of  Burgoyne's  camp,  which  lay  north  •f  the 
American's,  is  visible,  and  daily  washing  away, 
and  exposing  rotten  logs  which  in  part  composed 
the  breastwork.  Upon  a  range  of  knolls,  square 
redoubts  are  very  perceptible,  from  which  the 
Americans  commanded  the  passage  of  the  road 
and  river ;  another  wide  redoubt,  is  turned  into 
a  buckwheat  field,  with  its  venerable  moats  and 
parapets  forming  the  enclosures.  About  half 
a  mile  west  from  these  redoubts,  stand  the 
farm-house  and  bams,  which  after  the  battle 
of  the  19th,  were  occupied  as  hospitals.  The 
farm-house  is  large,  painted  red,  untenanted  and 
ready  to  fall.  It  was  the  head  quarters,  and 
temporary  abode  of  General  Gates,  who,  when 
the  engagement  was  over,  generously  remrtved 
into  a  tent,  and  gave  up  his  rooms  to  th^ 
wounded  soldiers. 

My  conductor,  seating  himself  upon  an  ele- 
vated mil-fence,  where  I  also  mounted,  and 
taking,  contentedly,  an  apple  from  the  bough  of 
a  luxuriant  tree,  which  fixed  its  roots  upon  the 
rounded  top  of  one  of  the  ancient  ramparts, 
pointed  to  different  parts  of  the  plain  :  "  There," 
said  he,  "  is  ati  old  barn  still  remaining,  which 
stood  within  the  British  line  of  encampment ; 
and  there  the  spot  where  Colonel  Cilly  straddled 
a  brass  twelve  pounder,  which  had  been  twice 
taken  from  the  enemy.  Here  stood  the  tents 
of  the  American  army :  the  soldiers  were  idly 
sitting,  or  reposing  in  them,  when  an  officer  was 


If 


fei 


li 


',<  .- 


^^4 


K 


M 


'>  .: 


Hi     I 

i  • 


;;; 


40 


PEDESTRIAN   roua 


seen  riding  over  the  plain  :  the  Generals  met 
him,  and  immediately  all  were  in  arms,  forming 
into  companies,  or  marching  in  order  of  battle. 
Yonder  a  troop  of  wounded  dragoons  were 
coming  from  the  engagement  towards  the  hos^ 
pital :  death  sat  upon  their  countenances:  blood 
ran  from  their  bodies;  and  as  the  mournful 
train,  slowly  advanced,  some  one  of  them,  at 
every  short  distance,  fell  from  his  horse,  and  ex- 
pired on  the  ground." 

The  period  between  the  19th.  of  September, 
and  the  second  engagement,  on  the  7  th.  of  Oc- 
tober, was  full  of  painful  anxiety  on  the  part  of 
the  British.  Not  a  day  passed,  without  the 
death  of  some  soldier  or  oificer,  shot  by  the 
American  scouts  and  marksmen.  And  at  tliis 
moment  tlie  Indians,  when  their  assistance  was 
most  needed,  deserted  from  the  cause,  under 
which  they  had  enlisted.  Their  defection  was 
occasioned  by  the  disappointment  of  their  hopes 
of  plunder,  and  by  the  notice  which  Gene- 
ral Burgoyne  was  in  honour  obliged  to  take 
of  the  cruel  massacre  of  Miss  IM'Crea.  This 
beautiful  young  lady,  dressed  in  her  bridal 
habiliments,  in  order  to  be  married  the  same 
evening  to  an  oflicer  of  character  in  Burgoyne's 
own  regiment,  while  her  heart  glowed  in  expec- 
tation of  a  speedy  union  with  the  beloved  object 
of  her  affections,  was  induced  to  leave  a  house, 
near  Fort  Edward,  with  the  idea  of  being  escorted 

*  Hislorj  of  America,  page  457. 


to  th( 

fathei 

but  it 

humai 

cent,  i 

Two  ( 

of  gua 

betwec 

the  pri 

the  bit 

of  inn< 

their  fi 

seal  pec 

On 
observe 
design 
rican  ll 
from  th 
of  Lak 
in  read 
gageme 
fire  ens 
Was  dre 
sanguin 
afternoc 
favour  c 
leaving 
mand,  ^ 
several 
Gipitatel 
sued,  ai 
their  car 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


41 


ibfer, 

;Oc- 

irt  of 

;   the 
the 

t  tliis 

i  was 

mder 
was 
opes 
iene- 
take 
This 
ridal 
same 
yne's 
xpec- 
hject 
ouse, 
orted 


to  the  residence  of  her  intended  husband.  Iler 
father  had  uniformly  been  a  zealous  loyalist; 
but  it  was  not  always  in  the  power  of  the  most 
humane  of  the  British  otficera,  to  protect  the  inno- 
cent, from  the  barbarity  of  their  savage  adherents. 
Two  of  the  principal  warriors,  under  pretence 
of  guarding  her  person,  had,  in  a  mad  quarrel 
between  themselves,  which  was  best  entitled  to 
the  prize,  or  to  the  honour  of  the  escort,  made 
the  blooming  beauty,  shivering  in  the  distress 
of  innocence,  youth  and  despair,  the  victim  of 
their  fury.  The  helpless  maid  was  butchered  and 
scalped,  and  1^  r  bleeding  corpse  left  in  the  woods. 
On  the  7th  of  October,  the  royal  army  was 
observed  advancing,  prepared  for  action.  Their 
design  was  to  force  a  passage  through  the  Ame- 
rican lines ;  or  if  they  failed,  to  dislodge  them 
from  their  entrenchments,  and  retreat  by  the  way 
of  Lake  George.  The  American  troops  were 
in  readiness  to  repulse  the  attack,  and  the  en- 
gagement soon  became  general.  A  tremendous 
fire  ensued.  The  thunder  of  the  British  cannon 
was  dreadful.  After  a  contest  of  the  the  most 
sanguinary  kind,  which  lasted  a  great  part  of  the 
afternoon,  the  victory  was  at  length  decided  in 
favour  of  the  American  army,  and  the  enemy, 
leaving  many  of  their  officers  highest  in  com- 
mand, wounded  or  slain,  upon  the  field,  and 
several  pieces  of  their  brass  artillery,  fled  pre- 
cipitately into  their  lines.  The  Americans  pur- 
sued, and  commenced  a  furious  assault  upon 
their  camp ;  which  was  in  part  carried,  when 

4  ♦ 


m,h 


■it 


■  ii 


i,- 1   - 


42 

night 
scene. 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


once    more    closed    upon    the    bloody 


This  defeat  was  signal.    General  Burgoyne, 
in  the  darkness  oi  night,    after  leaving  fires 
kindled  and  some  tents  standing,  led  back  his 
weak  dispirited  army  on  the  road  they  had  be- 
fore travelled,  as  far  as  Saratoga ;  where  he  re- 
mained until  the  articles  of  surrender  were  sign- 
ed on  the  I7th  of  October,  1777.     The  British, 
who  not  long  before  had  advanced  in  such  over- 
whelming numbers,  and  with  such  a  formidable 
array  of    strength  and   equipments,  were  now 
conducted,  mournful  captives,  between  two  files 
of  victorious  troops,  into  the  very  city  of  Alba- 
ny, in  which  they  had  thought  with  the  greatest 
certainty  of  spending  a  happy  winter. 

A  trench  and  rampart,  overgrown  with  bushes 
and  crowned  with  a  rail-fence,  runs  from  the 
foot  of  Beemis'  heights,  across  the  meadow,  to 
the  bank  of  Hudson  river.  It  formed  a  part 
of  the  American  line  of  entrenchments.  Where 
it  is  terminated  at  the  edge  of  the  river,  a  sen- 
tinel was  walking  late  in  the  night,  after  the  bat- 
tle of  the  7th,  when  a  boat  appeared  rowing 
down  the  stream,  which  he  hailed.  The  boat 
put  ashore,  under  a  flag  of  truce,  and  a  beautiful 
lady,  it  is  said,  with  her  attendants,  ascended 
the  bank.  This  was  Lady  Harriet  Ackland.* 
Her  husband  was  wounded  and  a  prisoner  in 
the  j^merican  camp.    With  a  heroism  seldom  to 


•t" 


*  Genera!  Wilkinson^a  Memoira. 


be  met 

stormy 

out  knc 

in  orde 

respecti 

upon  hi 

wounds. 

guard,  c 

where  an 

and    sup 

morning, 

due  to  he 

cao  camp 

The  ho 

hospital, 

where  I  ha 

*  Lady  Ack 

I  Burgoyne,  who 

lines  upon  a  W( 

read  the  .supers 

I  fer  in  the  origin 

I  Historical  Soci« 

Sir, 

Ladjr  Harriet 
land  persona]  vir 
land,  her  husbar 
refuse  her  requei 

Whatever  gen 
jjour  situation  an 
pre-eminence  in  ( 

Y}  and  her  ver 
|o  her  will  lay  ml 

Oct.  9,  1777, 
W.  G.  Gates. 


^y 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUH. 


43 


be  met  with,  she  had  thus  ventured,  on  a  cold 
stormy  night,  in  the  midst  of  her  enemies,  with- 
out knowing  whose  hands  she  might  fall  into, 
in  order  to  quiet  her  dreadful  apprehensions 
respecting  the  fate  of  her  husband,  and  to  attend 
upon  him,  till  he  should  be  recovered  of  his 
wounds.  Major  Dearborn,  who  commanded  the 
guard,  conducted  her  into  a  cabin  of  his  own, 
where  an  apartment  was  cleared,  a  fire  kindled,- 
and  supper  prepared.  She  remained  until 
morning,  and  was  then  escorted  with  the  honours 
due  to  her  rank  and  condition,  into  the  Ameri- 
cau  camp.* 

The  house  which  the  British  army  made  their 
hospital,  is  about  three  miles  from  the  tavern 
where  I  had  stopped,  and  is  colloquially  termed. 


i'i 


*  Lady  Ackland  brought  a  letter  (o  General  Gates  from  General 
Burgoyne,  who,  in  the  confusion  of  the  defeat,  could  only  write  a  few 
I  lines  upon  a  wet  and  soiled  piece  of  paper.     The  guard  could  not 
read  the  superscription,  which  occasioned  some  detention.    This  let- 
ter in  the  original,  haS^been  deposited  in  the  archives  of  the  New-York 
I  Historical  Society. ,  ^    ;^u;i;  '    -.  1^' ^ /cfTjii' -f 

g.  Gtrural  Burgoyne's  Letter.  vrj. 

Lady  Harriet  Ackland,  a  lady  of  the  first  distinction  by  family,  rank, 
bad  personal  virtues,  is  under  such  concern  on  account  of  Major  Ack- 
land,  her  husband,  wounded,  a  prisoner  in  your  hands,  that  I  cannot 
|refuse  her  request  to  commit  her  to  your  protection. 

Whatever  general  impropriety  there  may  be,  in  persona  acting  in 
pur  situation  and  mine,  to  solicit  favours,  T  cannot  see  the  uncommon 
pre-eminence  in  every  female  grace,  and  exaltation  of  character  of  this 
lady,  and  her  very  hard  fortune,  without  testifying,  that  your  attentions 
|o  her  will  lay  me  under  obligations. 

I  am,  Sir, 
Oc<.  9, 1777,      •' v;  your  obedient  servant, 

M.  G.  Gates.        '  •    '"^    -r'.*r;7    n     '-    j.  BURGOYNE. 


!■! 


1^'  )   t 


t'-^i 


44 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


Ui 


M 


'/;  ' 


h.J 


JHgly  a 
then  cc 
dust, 
land. 
rectly  b 
bushes ( 
The  1 
uneven  j 
Nervals,  i 
among  t] 
creek  TalJ 
church,  ( 
revolutioi 
ing  been 


ill  the  neigbbourheod,   The  house  where  Frazer 
died*    It  is  now  Smith's  Tavern.    There  is  a 
wide  tneadOw  between  it,  and  the  high  grounds 
under  which  it  formerly  stood.    It  has  since 
been  removed  half  a  mile  to  the  banks  of  the 
river.   Its  form  is  atitique,  the  rooms  are  large, 
and  not  in  the  iea^t  ruinous.    The  Baroness  de 
Reidesel  with  her  three  infant  children,  who  had 
accompanied  her  husband,  Major-General  the 
Baron    Reidesel,    commander   of  the  German 
troops,  from  Canada,   through  all  the   horrors 
of  the  war,  here  occupied  a  room,  whilst  the  re- 
joining apartments  were  filled  with  the  wouk  d'  I 
and  the  djring.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  bat- 
tle, she  expected  the  Generals  to  dine  with  her,  at  I  ^^s  decaye 
four  o'clock ;  when  instead  of  the  guests.  General  I  '^^e  Nortl 
Frazer  was  brought  in,  carried  on  a  litter,  mor-l  Champjai 
tally  wounded.  The  table  was  instantly  removed.!  ®"e  side, ; 
By  some,  indeed,  it  is  related,  that  the  dishe^J  '"^ad.    On 
and  every  article  on  the  table  were  swept  upon!  ^^nds,  upc 
the  floor,  and  General  Frazer  was  laid  upon  itj  ^^'dy  of 
instead  of  a  bed.    This  brave  and  gallant  sol-|P"''^u»ng 
dier  died  the  next  day,  and  according  to  his  re-l^^scendan 
quest,  his  corpse  was  borne,  without  parade,  to  "^«inded  a^ 
the  top  of  a  hill  behind  the  house,  where  a  re-  "P^n  a  poi 
doubt  had  been  built,  and  is  still  visible.     The  streams, 
procession,  accompanied  by  General  Burgoyn(  ^'Hs.  ?p  ^,w 
and  the  principal  officers,  slowly  ascended  th(     Saratoga 
hill  in  sight  of  both  armies,  and  under  a  con-  ^be  situat 
tinual  fire  from  the  Americans.     The  funera  Hudson  be 
service  was  performed  in  the  usual  manner ;  bu  ^^  Baten-k 
the  solemnity  of  interment  was  rendered  strik  "^d  the  high 


ai 


m\i 


',V 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


45 


razer 
is  a 
mnds 
since 
•f  the 
large, 
3S9  <le 
lo  bad 
al  the 
lermati 
[\orror8 

ibt>  '■■•'« 
OUi  »1'    ■ 

>nd  bat- 
\i  her,  at 


ingly  awful,  by  the  cannon  bails,  which  now  and 
then  covered  the  mournful  train  with  clouds  of 
dust.  His  remains  are  removed  to  Eng- 
land. The  hill  is  known  by  its  standing  di- 
rectly back  of  the  house,  and  having  the  trees  and 
bushes  cleared  away  from  its  sides.  •   .  .£  ^^ 

The  road  leading  to  the  village  of  Saratoga,  is 
uneven  and  recedes  from  the  river ;  which,  at  in- 
tervals, may  be  seen  rolling  its  diminished  current 
among  the  trees  and  meadows.     Near  Fishkill,  a 
creek  falling  into  the  Hudson,  the  ruins  of  an  old 
church,  celebrated   in  the  bloody  scenes  of  the 
revolution,  were  laying  at  the  road  side ;  hav- 
ing been  very  lately  pulled  down,  on  account  of 
its  decayed  condition.     The  unfmished  bed  of 
p' 2^1 1  the  Northern  canal,,  which  is  to  connect  Lake 
1      jjior-l  Champlainwith  the  Hudson,  runs  sometimes  on 
pmoved.1  °"^  side,  and  sometimes  on  the  other  side  of  the 
dishe3 1  ^^^^'    ^w  the  left,  the  high  bank  of  the  creek  ex- 
nt  upon!  ^^"^s,  upon  which  General  Gates,  with  the  main 
^  j^lbody  of  the  American  army  was  posted,  after 
lant  8ol-|P"^^"*"S  ^®  t^is  place,  the  retreating  enemy.    A 
ohis  re-l'^^^^^'^^^"^  of  General  Schuyler,  who  first  com- 
rade tol"^*^"^^^  against  Burgoyne,   has  a  seat,  situated 
jjupon  a  point,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  two 
\\       rn))Jstreams,  and  adjacent,  a  large  establishment  of 

iurgoyne 

ded  thJ    Saratoga   consists  of  a  few  scattered  houses. 

conP^^  situation,  however,    is  pleasant,    with  the 

funeraP"^^^"  below,  divided  by  two  romantic  islands, 

'     _.  \)ufce  Baten-kill  pouring  its  waters  from    the  east, 

led  strikf '^^^  ^^®  ^^S^  mountains  of  Vermont  rising  in  sight : 


.11. 


ij 


v.-iJ 


4b 


>E]»£STRIAN    TOUir. 


;  •! 


I    '! 


faaving 

passed 

remaiiii 

to  the  ( 

vhen  th 

man,  in 

exhibitii 

to  fetch 

tremelyrf 

tured  to  i 

^  respec 

ness,  she 

Strange  s 


all  which  is  enhanced  by  the  recollection  of  the 
glory,  which  the  American  arms  tliere  acquired. 
The  royal  army  occupied  the  heights,  where  they 
were  completely  surrounded  by  the  American 
battalions,  and  compelled  (Oct.  17th)  to  sur« 
render,  prisoners  of  war. 

The  American  soldiers  lined  the  opposite 
banks  of  the  river,  and  poured  continual  vollies 
into  the  British  encampment.  A  large  farm- 
house stands  upon  a  hill,  not  far  from  the  village, 
against  which  they  kept  up  a  terrible  cannona- 
ding, under  the  mistaken  idea,  that  in  it,  all  the 
Generals  were  assembled.  But  it  contained  00I7 
Wounded  soldiers  and  the  officers  wives,  who!  which  no 
had  taken  shelter  from  their  destructive  fire.lAoor,  hut 
*  The  Baroness  Reidesel,  with  her  infant  children,  I  from  si&hi 
heing  in  the  house,  was  obliged  to  seek  refuge  in  I  At  $^ri 
the  cellar;  where  she  remained  during  a  whole  I  are  disce 
night,  her  children  sleeping  on  the  cold  earth  I  conducted 
with  their  heads  on  her  lap.  Irow  piece 

This  house  was  shown  to  me  ;  it  is  calledlearth  and 
Bushee^s  house,  and  remains  still  in  a  very  goodlevidence  01 
condition.  The  hill  upon  which  it  stands,  acJbeen  then 
cords  exactly  with  thatj  engraved  on  the  map  inkround  we 
Smith's  History  of  the  American  war.  The  preJsame  level  • 
Sent  tenants  received  me  politely,  and  pointedlfFort  Hard 
out  the  several  rooms,  rendered  famous  for  thJihe  river  h 
remarkable  occurrences  which  transpired  betweemury,  untou 
their  walls.  In  one  room,  an  unfortunate  sollhick  bMshei 
dier  was  lying  on  a  table,  for  the  purpose  of 

binding 

*  KarratireoftheBai^essReides^.  I^rcuit.^f 


f  fiDEST&lAN  TQUa. 


« 


having  his  leg  amputated,  when  a  canpon  h^)l 
passed  through  the  house  and  carried  away  his 
remaining  leg  :  his  attendants  had  s^hsconded 
to  the  cellar  and  other  plaices  of  security,  and 
when  they  returned,  they  foynd  the  iniserable 
man,  in  a  corner  where  he  haid  crept,  scarcely 
exhibiting  any  signs  of  Ufe.  As  no  person  d^red 
to  fetch  water  from  the  river,  it  sooi>  became  ex- 
tremely sc9>rce ;  until  a  soldier's  wife  boldly  ven- 
tured to  the  shore,  a^t  lyhom,  the  Americans,  out- 
of  respect,  did  not  j^re.  For  this  disinterested- 
ness, she  was  afterwards  handsomely  rewarded. 
Strange  stories  are  told  about  spots  of  blood, 
which  no  washings  could  ever  erase  from  the 
floor,  but  which,  it  appears,  are  at  last  hiddep. 
from  sight  by  several  coverings  of  paint. 

At  Saratoga,  few  inarks  of  the  encampments 
are  discernible.  My  host,  towards  evening 
eartb| conducted  me  to  a  large  field,  divided  by  a  nar- 
row piece  of  woods,  over  which  a  few  risings  of 
calledlearth  and  scarcely  perceptible  excavations,  gave 
ry  goodlevidence  of  the  parapets  and  ncioats  which  had 
nds,  at'lbeen  there,  and  which  the  cultivators  of  the 
e  map  itiground  wer«  endeavouring  to  reduce  all  to  the 
The  prelsame  level ;  whilstan  insignificant  French  redoubt, 
pointeAPort  Hardy,)  situated  on  a  fertile  meadow  near 
for  ihJihe  river,  has  been  suffered  to  remain  near  a  cenr 
betweeilury,  untouched  by  the  plough,  and  defended  by 
ate  solihick  bushes  from  the  attacks  of  nature. 

rpose  o| 

Winding  among  by-roads,  8Lnd  making  a  large 

ircuit  9f  Qje^r  M^n  mitm,  thcou^  a  d^iKMt  and 


the 
ired. 
they 
riean 
I  sur- 

posite 
jollies 
farm- 
illage, 
onona- 
all  the 
3d  ooly 
j8,  who 
tve  fire, 
hildren, 
efuge  in 
whole 


B 


*^^^' 


.  ^,m 


■      H    ! 


N  J' 


^■■11 


48 


PEDESTRIAN    TOVR. 


m 


if'!' 


■'..5 


m 


'!     » 


I!-;  ■  I 


m 


'  I  1 , 


^i: 


I  h 


f. 


r.l 


^ 


uncleared  tract,  I  came  in  sight  of  the  extensive 
village  o(  Saratoga  SpringSy  so  much  resorted  to, 
for  its  excellent  waters.  It  stands  elevated  upon 
the  side  of  a  little  valley,  formed  hy  a  brook 
which  joins  the  river  Kayadarossoras.  The  ad- 
jacent lands  are  level  and  uninteresting.  The 
banks  of  the  hollow  formed  by  the  brook,  are 
about  forty  feet  high  on  each  side,  and  make,  as 
they  recede  apart,  a  wide  bottom  of  meadow 
ground,  and  as  they  appror^^'h  together,  a  narrow 
and  somewhat  romantic  glen.  In  this,  are  situa- 
ted  the  several  fountains,  all  of  them,  though 
spouting  here  and  there,  for  two  miles  along  the 
swampy  ravine,  evidently  springing  from  the 
same  source.  ■' ^"^-^    ..?:?f.;ii.(j,!i  ■>•$  ..r  -.^rie* 

A  mile  from  the  northern  extremity  of  the  vil- 
lage, which  is  itself  a  mile  in  length,  was  formerly 
a  mill-pond,  which  has  been  drained,  and  in  the 
bog  which  it  left,  ten  good  fountains  were  latelyl  ^'idercra 
discovered.  They  call  this  the  Ten  Springs!  beyond  a 
Proceeding  southwest,  toward  the  source  of  thel  *^ater,  no 
brook,  the  next  we  reach  is  Red  Spring,  deriving!  Whilst 
its  name  from  the  accumulation  of  iron  rust,  and!  tains,  a  n 
consisting  of  five  fountains  ;  one  of  which,  col-l  fenced, 
lected  like  the  rest  in  a  square  wooden  boxjof  the  su 
spouts  immediately  from  the  middle  of  the  runJ abounds, 
i'ug  brook.  On  the  hill  adjacent  are  a  number  olmagnifice 
buarding-houses  and  stores.  Ihalls  with 

It  is  a  considerable  distance  hence,  lo  thJas  Saratov; 
Great-rock  Spring.  After  passing  Barrel  Sprina^oih  pubii 
we  enter  the  commencement  of  the  street,  wherJand  capaci 
the  houses  are  old  and   ruinous,  and  descen 


three 

^vhcr 

h  is  I 

iive  /; 

eight  1 

circulj 

down  J 

taiuing 

rising  ( 

^inual  J 

l>een  foi 

J'l^nning 

jecture. 

^ts  annuj 

^<^ginnini 

^^'hich  su 

^^  the  sai 

^"8  the  t( 


.' » 


I'EDESTRIAN    TOUU. 


49 


three  tlights  of  steps,  to  the  bottom  of  the  glen, 
where  tliis  singular  natural  curiosity  is  situated. 
It  is  a  liard  light-coloured  rock,  jutting  four  or 
five  feet  above  the  ground,  of  a  conical  figure, 
eight  feet  in  diameter  at  the  basis,  and  haying  a 
circular  hole,  ten  inches  across,  running  directly 
down  from  the  top  into  .i  I  How  chamber,  con- 
taining the  mineral  water.  Bubbles  of  fixed  air 
rising  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  keep  it  in  con- 
tinual agitation.  How  this  rock  should  have 
been  formed  with  the  regular  cylindrical  hole 
running  into  it,  can  only  be  determined  by  con- 
jecture. The  most  remarkable  circumstance  is 
its  annual  discharge,  which  takes  place  about  the 
beginning  of  summer.*  In  the  same  paling 
which  surrounds  the  Great-rock,  is  another  rock 
of  the  same  whitish  calcareous  description,  haiv- 
T .  ^^'gi  ing  the  top  even  with  the  ground  and  a  much 
latehl  ^'^^^  crater,  of  twenty  inches  diameter,  in  which 
j;,     -^p.^  I  beyond  arm's  length,  is  a  cistern  of  impure  green 

of  thel  ^^ter,  not  lit  to  be  tasted. 

deriving!     Whilst  I  was  examining  these  singular  foun- 

_i,jj^(^^|  tains,  a  most  tremendous  shower  of  rain  com- 

ch    col-|"^^^^^^^»  ^"^  compelled  me  to  retreat  into  one 

en  box! ^^  the  superb    hotels    with   which    the  village 

the  runl^^^*^^^^'**     ^^  place  in  America  possesses  such 

umber  ol*^^g"i^*<^6nt    boarding-houses    and    sumptuous 

halls  with  their  piazzas,  cupolas,  and  pavilions, 

to  thi^^  Saratoga  Springs.     Indeed,  all  the  buildings, 

el  Springf^^^^  public  and  private,  are  extremely  splendid 

t  wheif'^^  capacious.  *    '•-  -     -  ■    i.    .,  , 

deSCeni  *  Winterbo<ham's  America. 

5 


isive 
dto, 
upon 
jrook 

e  ad- 
The 
c,  are 
ke,  as 
eadow 
larrow 
J  situa- 
tbougb 
ong  the 
om  the 

the  viU 
ormerly 


if'i.  .A^^M 


.1^ 


^. 


h):. 


!''■  I, 

1'?  : 


'   1     i- 


iA  >> 


vji')! 


t':l 


:i 


■II 

•;s" 
.1  ■• 

■'  '-'r 

Si- 

k 

1 


I 


.; 


4 

m 


i  ■ 

;  1 


,  i-' 


if 


: 


60 


PEDESTRIAN    TOCH. 


There  are  many  other  fountains,  such  as  Fiat" 
rock,  Hamilton,  Washington,  and  Columbia  ;  but 
none  are  so  much  esteemed  as  Congress  Spring, 
from  v.aich  the  waters  are  taken  for  expoiiation, 
and  thence  are  commonly  known  by  the  appella-* 
tion  of  Congress  Water.  There  is  no  very  sensible 
difterence  between  the  taste  of  the  several  springs : 
there  is  however,  i»  great  ditference  between  the 
conveniences  for  drinking,  the  glasses  for  dipping 
up  the  water,  and  the  bath-houses,  which  occa- 
sions one  spout  to  be  frequented  ?  Teat  deal 
more  than  another,     a  .(>►:»■•   »   u 

The  composition  of  these  waters  is  chiefly  sa- 
line, impregnated  strongly  with  carbonic  acid 
gas.  It  is  extraordinary  in  what  manner  such  a 
vast  quantity  of  air  is  produced,  as  rises  from 
the  earth  and  bubbles  on  the  top  of  the  fountains, 
causing  a  simmering  noise,  similar  to  that  of  a 
glass  of  fresh  drawn  champaigne,  to  be  heard  on 
all  their  surfaces. 

Ballston  Springs  are  six  miles  hence  in  a 
south-westerly  direction,  between  which  and  Sa- 
ratoga Springs  the  land  is  one  sandy  uninterest- 
ing plain.  At  the  village  of  Ballston  Spa,  the 
landscape  assumes  a  more  pleasing  variety ;  a 
branch  of  the  Kayadarosseras  rolls  through  a  little 
valley,  washing  the  basements  of  the  lower 
bouses,  and  winding  until  its  course  is  lost  among] 
high  hills  which 4ay  in  the  vicinity.  Hotels,  acade- 
mies,  and  churches,  rise  magnificent  above  the! 
tops  of  extensive  ranges  of  wool  and  cottonl 
manufactories,  and  stamp   upon   the  features! 


1 
\ji 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


51 


fly  sa- 
c  acid 
such  a 
J  from 
ntains, 
it  of  a 
ardon 


of  the  place  a  character  of  great  wealth  and 
grandeur.       r    ^>  ,,  »  .  ,    i       , 

The  fountains  are  situated  in  different  parts  of 
the  village.  A  convenient  footwalk  leads  over 
the  j<tream,  to  Low's  Springs,  consisting  of  nu- 
merous spouts,  contained  under  the  basement- 
room  of  a  hotel ;  and  farther  onward,  to  the 
Washington  f6untain,  a  very  large  and  high  spout 
enclosed  in  a  railing,  and  furnished  with  proper 
conveniences  for  drinking :  it  is  in  the  form  of  an 
obelisk,  rising  five  or  six  feet  above  the  ground, 
rendered  of  a  bright  red  colour  by  the  chalybeate 
qualities  of  the  fluid,  the  top  open,  and  the  water 
copiously  boiling  over,  and  streaming  in  handsome 
cascades  down  the  sides.  Scarcely  three  yards  dis- 
tant gushes  from  the  same  soil,  a  fountain  of  the 
purest  and  coldest  water,  without  the  slightest 
particle  of  saline  or  chalybeate  ingredient :  it 
forms  a  little  rivulet  rippling  beautifully  over 
the  stones  of  the  creek,  whilst  its  neighbour 
angrily  bubbles  and  mingles  in  the  same  stream, 
with  a  flery  train  behind  of  red  iron-coloured 
pebbles.  -.<.'>;  i.v)u,it;>:v     •  ;  ;.,;,.   i  ■i-.^ih' ^i 

In  the  middle  of  the  village,  an  iron  railing 
surrounds  a  hollow  area,  wiih  steps  descending 
to  the  bottom,  in  which  the  fountain  principally 
resorted  to,  gushes  over  the  top  of  a  spout  two 
feet  high  and  runs  off  in  a  regular  stream.  Air 
bubbles  continually  swell  from  below,  and  burst 
upon  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  taste  is 
agreeable  and  becomes  more  so  by  the  practice 
of  drinking.     It  is  in  general  use  among  the 


'3 


Ml 


>i 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


Si!  I 


{'■:•■ 


M 


villagers,  who  admire  its  gently  stimulating  pro- 
perties, and  even  prefer  it  to  the  costly  spi- 
rituous and  fermented  liquors  of  the  shops. 

Persons  were  sitting  upon  the  steps,  within  the 
railing,  contemplating  the  buhbling  tluid  and 
considering  the  wonderful  effects  of  Nature's 
secret  operations,  and  **  ever  and  anon**  some 
pallid  invalid,  some  hearty  farmer,  some  delicate 
female,  some  blustering  fashionable  youth,  de- 
scended to  the  fountain,  and  applied  the  sim- 
mering cup  to  their  lips.  The  day  was  gloomy. 
Mingling  with  the  murmurs  of  the  adjacent  creek, 
the  sweet  strains  of  a  well-played  violin,  floated 
from  the  windows  of  the  nearest  boarding-house, 
and  agreeably  corresponded  with  emotions,  which 
the  place  excited.  I  looked  with  admiration 
upon  the  scene,  and,  like  many  others,  contem- 
plated the  air-bubbles  of  the  fountain  with  real 
satisfaction. 

Early  the  next  morning  (Sept.  4th)  I  left  the 
springs,  not  a  little  regretting  to  part  with  the  so- 
cial company  of  the  hotel  where  I  lodged. 
Whether  it  is  to  be  ascribed  to  the  beneficial  ef- 
fects of  the  water,  or  to  a  fixed  resolution  of 
spending  the  time  merrily,  that  good  humour, 
merry-makings,  and  sports  constantly  prevail 
here,  and  brighten  the  countenances  of  both 
strangers  and  inhabitants,  is  a  question  of  some 
doubt.  The  springs  are  assuredly  places  of  gay 
resort,  notwithstanding  the  uninteresting  features 
of  the  barren  district  in  which  they  are  situated. 
The  hot  season  was  now  closing,  and  copse 


quentl 

dimin 

Firu 

which  I 

as  I  ad 

>ne  one 

I  was  n 

liad  sud 

^V-     TI 

striLiiify 

live  Mel 

formerly 

'^anks    w 

ineniberc 

'^le  tribe, 

nour  to 

means  of 

♦'Xterniin? 

Be/ore 

line  of  the 

stakes,  wh 

westward, 

the  souths 

The  bui 

''ubsfLntial 

'•'ge,  is  a 

k'hurches  a 
jtecture  am 
Jangles.  Its! 
lion,  may  bl 

But  the 
s  Union 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


Ml 


left  the 
the  80- 
|lodged. 
Ticial  ef- 
ition  of 


quently  the  polite  companies  were  beginning  to 
diminish  in  theirnumbers.       ' 

Fifteen  miles  of  a  sandy,  pine  and  cedar  plain, 
which  gradually  increased  in  fertility  and  beauty 
as  I  advanced  in  sight  of  Schenectady,  brought 
me  once  more  to  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk  river. 
I  was  rowed  across  the  stream,  which  late  rains 
had  suddenly  swelled  and  rendered  dark  and  mud- 
dy. The  appearance  of  the  current  and  the  oars 
striking  upon  its  surface,  reminded  me  of  the  na- 
tive Mohawk  Indian,  with  his  canoe  and  paddles, 
formerly  darting  from  side  to  side  of  these  verdant 
banks  where  his  wigwam  flourished.  I  re- 
membered with  sorrow  the  downfall  of  that  no- 
ble tribe,  and  thought  it  reflected  but  little  ho- 
nour to  the  people  who  could  find  no  other 
means  of  inhabiting  a  country,  without  entirely 
exterminating  its  original  possessors.  "> 

Before  entering  Schenectady,  I  observed  the 
line  of  the  great  Western  Canal,  marked  out  by 
stakes,  which  here,  and  a  great  part  of  its  course 
westward,  is  to  be  formed  by  embankments  on 
the  southern  shore  of  the  IVIohawk.        -'  -^^f  >   -    ' 

The  buildings  of  Schenectady  are  antique  and 
substantial ;  the  court-house,  formerly  Union  Col- 
lege, is  a  stone  edifice  of  great  capacity :  the 
churches  are  finished  in  an  elegant  style  of  archi- 
tecture and  the  streets  are  airy  and  cross  at  right 
angles.  Its  inhabitants,  chiefly  of  Dutch  extrac- 
ion,  may  be  computed  at  thirty-five  hundred. 

But  the  most  perspicuous  object  in  this  town, 
s  Union  College,  displaying   its  two  separate 


|:|** 


6   * 


li-i 


\ 


■J. 


i^.\ 


s'. 
I,  ■ 


!.     1 


54 


P£DESTRIAN    TOL'K. 


f 

.'{;t 


^ 


ir 

;i 


It. 


{  i 


't 


I  : 

Ir 


Jl 


1 ' 


^inpfs,  upon  a  rising  grouml,  observable  at 
a  great  distance,  and  tUlbrdingrrom  the  roof  one 
of  the  finest  coup  Htceifs  imaginable.  Without 
stopping  to  adjust  my  dusty  attire,  I  went  up  to 
the  college,  where  a  professor  and  the  librarian, 
kindly  showed  me  the  library  and  philosophical 
aparatus,  both  of  which  are  objects  of  real  cu- 
riosity ;  especially  a  powerful  electrical  ma- 
chine, among  the  latter.  The  prospect  from  the 
top  of  the  building  was  so  alluring,  that  I  remain- 
ed near  an  hour  with  my  conversant  conduc- 
tors, surveying  the  beauties  of  nature,  the  river 
winding  east  and  west,  the  rugged  hills  of  the 
northern  counties,  and  the  mountain  which  rises 
near  Utica,  whither  my  journey  was  directed. 
Dr.  Mitchell,  in  a  discourse,  which  he  lately  de- 
livered in  this  college,  expressed  an  opinion,  that 
the  flat  regions,  stretching  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Schenectady,  and  so  completely  surrounded 
by  hills,  has  been  the  bed  of  a  wide  lake,  which, 
us  its  outlet  wore  away,  has  dwindled  into  the 
comparatively  little  Mohawk  river.  Union  Col- 
lege was  incorporated  in  1794;  it  is  in  a  flourish- 
ing condition;  and  is  to  have  more  buildings, 
and  a  large  botanical  garden  shortly  annexed. 

Witli  a  quick  pace,  I  recrossed  the  river  on, 
Burfs  singular  bridge,  which  has  a  roof  over  each 
abutment  only ;  and  bent  my  course  due  west 
through  a  delightful  vale,  which  all  the  impassion- 
ed attempts  of  the  poet  would  fail  properly  to 
describe,  or  the  delicate  touch  of  the  pencil,.  t€>| 
delineate  with  justice.-r — 


U'-'v/     ;/i  ;.♦»«' 


i 

at. 


X 


hi. 


I 


hi 


. .  .'if 


ihi 


i 

'•i 


i 

ir 


I 


'  1 


>ts> 


I  f  1 


ii 


PEDtSTRIAN    TOUR. 


55 


"J.  <<u 


o 


*•  litre  spreads  a  green  expanse  of  plnin«, 
Where  sweetly  pensive  silence  reignsi; 
And  there  at  utmost  stretch  of  eye, 
A  mountain  fades  into  the  sky ; 
While,  winding  round,  dilfu»'d  and  deep, 
A  river  rolls  with  sounding  sweep."*        » 


:•?•■< 


Wherever  I  cast  my  eyes,  the  country  spread 
a  rich  prospect  of  natural  beauties,  heightened 
by  the  charms  oC  cultivation.  As  the  luminary 
of  day  slowly  descended  to  the  hills  on  the  south 
western  banks  of  the  Mohawk,  clouds  gradually 
formed  in  the  sky,  and  assumed  a  vast  variety  of 
dazzling  and  .  fanciful  shapes  and  colours. 
The  broad  sheet  of  the  river  extended  before  me 
as  I  advanced,  interspersed  with  numerous  bush- 
clothed  islands;  abrupt  mountains  lifted  their 
brows  at  a  distance,  bright  and  majestic  in  the  rays 
of  the  sun,  or  dim  and  dusky  beneath  the  sha- 
dows of  the  clouds :  a  bold  shore  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream,  presented  its  verdant  declivi- 
ties with  the  busy  labourers  of  the  Great  Canal 
employed  in  piling  up  embankments  of  earth 
and  stones,  and  vociferating  at  the  oxen  wearily 
dragging  their  loads  ;  whilst  tlie  thunder  of  the 
rocks  they  were  blasting,  rebounded  from  hill  to 
hill,  and  rolled  in  frightful  echoes,  along  the  ra- 
vines of  the  surrounding  mountains.  Now  the 
yellow  beams  of  the  setting  sun,  darted  through 
the  trees  scattered  between  the  river  and  the  shore ; 
and  now  the  vapours,  gathering  heavily  and 
black  over  head,  suddenly  poured  down  a  torrent 


M' 


V 


\4      - 


\  ; 


!.•>.{! 


\W 


^;'M 


«:•  t 


»  .Mallet. 


.<1 


b6 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


i'\^ 


iff 


of  rain.  The  shower  passed  ;  and  behind  me, 
a  perfect  rainbow  of  the  most  vivid  colours, 
sublimely  stretched  across  the  heavens,  with 
one  extremity  resting  on  the  hills,  and  the  other 
on  the  agitated  waters  of  the  Mohawk. 

At  Amsterdam,  which  is  a  considerable  vil- 
lage fifteen  miles  from  Schenectady,  labourers 
were  coming  over  the  river,  by  whom  I  learned 
that  the  current  had,  that  afternoon,  risen  four 
feet,  and  in  consequence,  the  walling  of  the 
canal,  for  preventing  the  earthen  mound  from 
being  washed  away,  was  for  the  present  discon- 
tinued. 

Through  Tripes-Hill,  an  elevated  village  near 
the  mouth  of  Schoharie  creek,  and  Caughnawaga, 
which  is  compactly  built,  and  pleasantly  situa- 
ted, I  passed,  next  day,  towards  Canajoharie  ; 
proceeding,  in  the  midst  of  huge  clitTs,  shoot- 
iuii  four  and  live  hundred  feet,  direct  from 
the  road  side,  with  successive  scenes  of  the  finest 
combination,  of  islands,  meadows,  hills,  and 
lofty  precipices.  Three  miles  east  of  Canajoha- 
rie village,  1  crossed  the  Mohawk,  for  the  fourth 
time,  in  a  small  ferry-boat,  to  Spraker's  tavern, 
with  an  intention  of  descending  into  the  newly 
explored,,  and  wonderful  cavern  in  the  Nose,  a 
high  mountain  in  that  neighbourhood. 

'  THE    CAVERN    OF    CANAJOHARIE. 

Having  procured  a  sufficiency  of  lights  and 
ropes,  the  latter  of  which  are  especially  necessary, 
and  a  person  to  act  as  guide,  with  two  others 


who  v( 
hajfa 
iiere  ci 
the   m, 

narrow 
eultivai 
close  W( 
the  tree: 
'egular  , 
®f  the  o 
trance  oi 
across  or 
ning  perj 
were  ace 
to  the  ro 
niouth.  aj 
The  th 
^een  ince 
tlie  water 
niud  and 
We  seiz 
^  ''ght,  fo 
lowered  o 
|o^  a  knot 
called)  of 

h"fl      gloc 
Istone  rocli 
p  one  part 
[row  water 
^nown  an 

*  Represents 
h  waters  effjro. 


PEDESTRIAN  TOUR. 


67 


Ihts  and 
tcessary, 
o  others 


who  volunteered  to  accompany  us ;  we  proceeded 
Haifa  mile  eastward,  alon*;^  the  canal,  which  is 
here  cut  with  incredible  labour,  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,*  and  ascending  by  a  steep  and 
narrow  path,  went  a  mile  farther,  across  some 
cultivated  fields  upon  the  top,  to  the  skirt&  of  a 
close  woods  :  penetrating  a  little  distance  among 
the  trees,  our  conductor  pointed  to  a  small  ir- 
regular hole  at  the  bottom  of  a  slight  depression 
©f  the  ground,  intimating  that  it  was  the  en- 
trance of  the  cavern.  It  was  about  twenty  inches 
across  one  way,  and  three  feet  the  other,  run- 
ning perpendicularly  downwards.  Our  candles 
were  accordingly  lighted,  a  rope  was  fastened 
to  the  root  of  a  young  tree,  growing  near  the 
mouth,  and  we  prepared  to  descend. 

The  three  or  four  preceding  days,  there  had 
been  incessant  showers  about  these  districts,  and 
the  water  pouring  down  the  hollow,  had  carried 
mud  and  rubbish  along  with  it  into  the  cavern. 

We  seized  the  rope,  and  one  by  one,  each  with 
a  light,  forced  a  passage  through  the  hole,  and 
lowered  ourselves  twenty-five  feet,  with  the  help 
of  a  knotty  pole,  to  the  floor  (if  it  could  be  so 
called)  of  the  first  room ;  which  was  a  large,  black 
and  gloomy  expansion,  in  secondary  lime- 
|stone  rock,  of  no  regular  form,  with  projections 
jiii  one  part,  dismal  hollows  in  another,  and  nar- 
|row  water-worn  crevices  leading  to  more  un- 
known and  impenetrable  caverns.     The  floor, 

♦  Represented  rising  on  the  U*ft  of  the.cng'aviiijj  with  tjic  c£\nal  at 
Ibe  waters  efljro. 


mi 


m 


1 1 


lii  I 


>*m  > 


Ml 


I! 

li 


'1 


1,1/ 
■$ 

if 


r  •* 


'■  ■ 


(«!■!' 


I 

it! 

W. 

ill 

m 


I! 


!< 
*-\*., 


58 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


far  from  being  horizontal,  descended  so  vertically 
that  we  were  obliged  to  creep  upon  our  hands 
and  feet :  it  was  also  covered  with  clay,  wet,  and 
as  slippery  as  ice. 

The  arching  roof  of  the  room  was  at  first 
hung  with  beautiful  pendant  stalactites,  curling 
in  various  forms  of  glittering  icicles  and  sparry 
chandaliers,  reflecting  the  light  of  torches  with 
astonishing  splendour:  but  these,  not  only  in  this 
chamber,  but  in  the  whole  list  ol  twenty-one 
rooms,  from  the  entrance  to  the  bottom,  were 
swept  away  by  the  late  intruders,  who  rejoiced 
in  bringing  into  open  daylight,  memorials  of 
their  adventure.  On  the  right,  a  very  contracted 
aperture  opened  into  a  lateral  chamber,  which 
we  had  no  mind  to  explore  :  near  it  the  ripling 
of  a  clear  fountain  of  the  purest  and  coldest  water, 
sounded  musically  among  the  gloomy  crevices 
and  expansions. 

With  some  difficulty  for  want  of  a  firm  footing, 
we  crept  to  the  lower  end  of  the  room,  where 
several  passages  ran  off  into  dismal  blackness ; 
one  of  which,  was  nearly  round,  of  a  crooked  and 
downward  descent,  and  large  enough  to  admit  a 
man.  Our  rope  was  fastened  to  a  stick,  laid 
across  the  opening,  and  with  great  toil,  and  in 
one  part  depending  entirely  by  the  rope,  we  bent 
and  forced  ourselves,  notwithstanding  wet  clay 
and  sharp  points,  forty  feet  with  the  assis'tance 
of  a  pole  here  also,  to  the  floor  of  the  second 
room.  Part  way  down  this  second  passage,  was 
a    smaller    one,    branching  probably   to    unat 


luinabli 

more  ni 

there  w 

the  roof 

liety  of 

the  watc 

^ened  in 

The  f 

steep  to 

^"ound  lit 

correct  i< 

impossibj 

or  a  Joaf ( 

can  be  de 

water  dri 

and  point! 

-md  thougl 

culty  of  r 

of  the  air. 

only  by  so 

we  cannot 

ing  anion 

demons. 

Carefull; 
trated  into 
was  impec 
blesome  pa 
of  our  guid 
palpitation 
<lungeons  o 
I  stood  ra 
l^ole;  the 


'g 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR, 


6S 


nds 
and 

first 

rling 

)arry 

with 

nthis 

y-one 

were 
joiced 
als  of 
racted 
which 
fipling 
water, 

e  vices 

boting, 
where 

;kness ; 

Led  and 
dmit  a 
k,  laid 
and  in 
we  hent 
et  clay 
sistance 
second' 
I  ere,  wa8| 
|o   unat- 


tainable chambers.  We  found  this  room  much 
more  magniticent  tlian  the  former  ;  and  aitliough 
there  were  no  conical  stalactites  hanging  liom 
the  roof,  yet  the  sides  were  adorned  with  a  va- 
riety of  fanciful  figures,  made  by  the  oozings  of 
the  water  bearing  lime  in  solution,  which  glis- 
tened in  a  bright  and  very.pleasing  maimer. 

The  floor  of  this  room  also  descended  very 
steep  to  an  entrance  into  the  third,  which  we 
found  little  different  from  the  last.  To  give  a 
correct  idea  of  the  general  forms  of  the  rooms  is 
impossible  :  like  the  airy  cells  of  a  spongy  cheese, 
or  a  loaf  of  bread,  neither  top,  bottom,  nor  sides 
can  be  delineated.  They  differ  in  capacity  and 
water  dripples/  without  cessation,  from  chinks 
and  points  above  ;  whilst  a  damp  chill  is  felt, 
and  though  the  lights  burn  clear,  an  evident  diffi- 
culty of  respiration  betrays  the  noxious  quality 
of  the  air.  An  awful  silence  prevails,  interrupted 
only  by  sounding  drops  :  and  at  every  advance, 
we  cannot  avoid  imagining  ourselves  descend- 
ing among  the  infernal  regions  of  ghosts  and 
demons.  -      .   .. 

Carefully  proceeding  downwards,  we  pene- 
trated into  a  chamber,  where  our  farther  progress 
was  impeded  by  an  extremely  narrow  and  trou- 
blesome pass.  A  cord  was  tied  around  the  body 
of  our  guide,  who  discovered  evident  tokens  of 
palpitation,  and  seemed  not  much  used  to  the 
dungeons  of  this  horrible  cavern. 

I  stood  ready  to  descend  at  the  mouth  of  the 
hole  ;  the  two  men  who  accompanied  me,  were 


(V    * 


M. 


'l:?' 


i    1.' 


i  li  ; 


:4  ^t^i   1 


:•! 


00 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUll. 


behind,  one  with  lights  in  his  hands,  and  tlie 
other  with  the  rope  turned  around  the  angle  of 
a  rock,  and  gradually  lowering  the  guide  down 
into  the  black  abyss.  The  flame  of  his  candle 
shone  up  the  winding  pas-age,  whilst  at  interval 
his  voice  was  heard  calling  on  the  person  to  hold 
fast  or  lower.  At  last  tlie  cord  ran  out  and  he  was 
not  near  the  bottom.  As  the  lights  shone  upon 
the  countenances  of  my  German  companions  and 
rcdened  the  surrounding  rocks  and  stalactites, 
the  guide  exclaimed  in  his  own  coarse  dialect, 
which  sounded  loud  and  hollow  from  the  lower 
cavity,  that  he  could  not  lead  us  any  farther; 
that  it  was  too  late  in  the  season,  too  wet,  too 
dreary,  too  adventuresome  ;  and  all  my  per- 
suasions to  induce  him  if  possible  to  goon,  were 
inelliectual.  We  pulled  him  up,  and  covered 
with  dirt  and  his  arm  bleeding  from  a  wound 
received  by  the  point  of  a  rock,  he  rose  through  the 
aperture,  like  the  ghost  of  some  terrible  war- 
rior cited  from  the  grave.  We  mounted  the  pas- 
sages by  whi'ch  we  had  descended,  and  after  being 
three  hours  in  these  subterraneous  vaults,  regained 
the  top  and  once  more  breathed  a  mild  atmos- 
phere. 

Thus  ended  this  adventure,  in  which  1  was 
greatly  disappointed  :  by  inquiry,  however,  I 
learned  several  particulars  respecting  the  lower 
most  rooms.  The  descent  of  the  whole  range  isl 
very  steep  and  hazardous,  and  few  daring  in-| 
div'iduals  only  have  ventured  to  the  ap 
parent  termination,  which  is  four  hundred  an 


I  went 
of  the' 
bie  for 
l>oards 
discovi 
ncss ;  I 

coverec 
man  be 
room,  i 
^  perso 
glitterin 
with  ma 
"p  as  a 
was  perf 
§ing  up  1 
^eet  with( 
This  V 
America 
and    to  J 
gloom, 
than  any 
in  the  cen 
rock  or 
jacent  gri 
and  the  c| 
whole  fiel^ 
of  which, 
colour,  I 


Hence, 
^  walked  s( 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUU. 


61 


the 
le  of 
own 
indle 
rviil 
hold 
e  was 
upon 
IS  and 
ctites, 
:ialect, 
;  lower 
artlier ; 
et,  too 
ly  per- 
n,  were 
Icovered 
wound 
)ugh  the 
le  vvar- 
tbe  pas- 


1  wenty-live  feet  perpendicular,  below  the   level 
of  the  entrance.    One  of  the  rooms,  is  remarka- 
ble for  the  resemblance  of  its  walls  to  new  pine 
boards  upon  the  side  of  a  house  ;  another  has  no 
discoverable  top,  running  oft'  into  endless  dark- 
ness ;  and  another,  the  thirteenth,  has  the  floor 
covered  knee  deep  with  water.     Figures  of  hu- 
man beings  are  traced  upon  the  sides  of  the  lowest 
room,  from  which,  a  small  crevice  will  admit 
a  person's  head,  into  a  most  superb  chamber, 
glittering  and  spangling  from  pillars  and  arches 
with  most  astonishing  beauty.   A  person  brought 
up  as  a  trophy,  part  of  a  sparry  column,  which 
was  perfectly  straight  and  cylindrical :  in  drag- 
ging up  his  load,  he  sustained  a  heavy  fall  of  eight 
feet  without  material  injury. 

This  was  the  first  cavern  I  had  visited  in 
America  ;  and  it  appeared  much  more  intricate, 
and  to  possess  much  more  of  that  horrible 
gloom,  which  strikes  with  awe  the  intruder, 
than  any  of  those  which  I  had  formerly  explored 


erbeuigl  j„  ^j^g  central  parts  of  England.  Abundance  of 
legaineul  pQ^I^  or  quartz-crystals  are  found  upon  the  ad- 
atinos-|  jacent  grounds.  A  noil  was  fresh  ploughed, 
and  the  crystals  being  exposed  to  the  sun,  the 
whole  field  glittered  with  the  dazzling  minerals, 
of  which,  (those  most  remarkable  for  size  and 
colour,  I  gathered  a  number. 


^h  1  wasi 

\vever,  1' 
lower- 
range  isi 
laving  iti- 
[the    ap- 


Hence,  crossing  the  new  bridge  of  Canajoharie, 
[died  an(l|lwalked  some  distance  by  moonlight,  and  put  up 

6 


<  ( 


I  1 


s 

,1 


;\i.-; 


' '.] 


^■'^i{ 


■  m 


m 


s 

H 

I; 


i  I 


illll 


f  k 


rn 


oie 


rEDESTUlAN    TOLH. 


in  the  vilTage  of  Palatine  upon  Garoga  creek. 
The  valley  becomes  more  contracted  between 
high  granitical  ridges,  as  v/e  proceed  towards 
Little  Falls.  PVagments  piled  upon  fragments  in 
wild  irregularity,  now  surround  us,  and  we  find 
the  Mohawk  calmly  flowing  among  the  hidden 
depths  of  chasms,  which  earthquakes  seem  to 
have  opened,  which  dashing  waters  have  stove 
asunder,  or  which  the  silent  stream  has   slowly 
worn,  draining  the  once  great  lakes  to  the  west- 
ward.    As  we  wind  our  toilsome  way  to  the  top 
of  the  clifls,and  survey  the  rugged  glen,  which  is 
here  too  narrow  for  the  road,  a  deep  roar  draws 
the  attention,  which  is  disturbed  every  moment 
by  the  labourers  of  the  Great  Canal,  exploding 
rocks,  and  tilling  the  air  with  flying  splinters. 
All  at  once  the  descending  current,  white,  sur- 
<>-ing,  dashing  and  roaring,  opens  t^'on  our  eager 
gaze,  and  adds   tenfold  interest  to  the  horrific 
scenery,   above,    below  and  around  us.     Tall 
hickories  and  sugar-maples,  proudly  shake  their 
branches   upon  airy  heights ;  and    from  every 
fissure  among  the  immense  blocks,  heaped  high 
and  imminent  about  the  falls,  luxuriant  shrubs  I  heard  ft 
and  bushes  depend,  and  scatter  their  innumerable  I  train  ma 
flowers  upon  the  surface  of  the  Mohawk.  I  corner  o 

Not  only  the  works  of  Nature  are  at  thisl  halted, 
place  surprisingly  grand,  but  the  works  of  man!  air,  and 
also,  are  wonderful  and  well  worth  particular!  mountain 
notice.  Nature  trembles  on  her  throne,  as  manlscended  t 
undermines  her  empire,  and  penetrates  through! parade  w 
her  adamantine  barriers.    A  dam  is  thrown  ovellwere  abo 


thev 

rapi( 

work 

when 

cient 

propo 

and  th 

n\\\  tc 

Little  ] 

stone  e( 

Proc 

alluvial 

sinking 

not  a  lit 

swiftly  ^ 

the   rive 
sively  b( 

cultivate 

by  low  a 

nouses  Oj 

middle  oj 

by  the 


m 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


93 


at  this 
of  man 
particular! 
as  maul 
tbTOUgb] 


the  river,  forming  a  capacious  bay  above  tbc 
rapids  ;  and  the  course  of  tbe  Canal  is  now 
worked  through  the  rocky  mountains,  in  a  part, 
where  many  of  the  great  projectors  of  the  an- 
cient and  modern  worlds,  would  have  siniled  at 
proposals  for  the  undertaking.  A  large  r/ry- 
hridge  leads  the  turnpike  over  a  broad  ravine  ; 
and  the  old  locks,  for  navigating  the  river,  are 
still  to  be  seen  in  the  vicinity  of  the  village  of 
Little  Falls  ;  which  does  itself,  in  some  of  its  fine 
stone  edifices,  exhibit  bold  specimens  of  building. 
Proceeding  in  view  of  German  Flats,  a  rich 
alluvial  district,  I  plodded  my  way,  rising  and 
sinking  along  pleasant  undulating  banks,  and 
not  a  little  amused  by  the  square  sails  of  boats, 
swiftly  glidinff  thrCU^n  the  bushy  margins  of 
the  river ;  until  Herkimer  Flats  spread  exten- 
sively before  me,  in  one  perfect  level,  highly 
cultivated  and  bounded  as  with  a  wall  of  defence, 
by  low  and  woody  circumjacent  hills.  The  vi^hite 
houses  of  Herkimer  were  seen  collected  near  tlie 
middle  of  the  plain.  Martial  music  accompanied 
by  the  beat  of  the  drum,  could  be  distinctly 
heard  from  the  village ;  and  soon  after  a  long 
train  marched  in  glittering  array,  around  the 
corner  of  the  street  to  a  spacious  green,  and 
halted.  The  blast  of  a  bugle  floated  shrill  in  the 
air,  and  resounded  back  from  the  neighbouring 
mountains.  All  again  was  silent ;  and  as  I  de- 
scended to  the  spot,  I  contemplated  the  military 
Iparade  with  pleasure  and  enthusiasm.  There 
were  about  a  hundred  strong  hardy  men,  whose 


.'ft  ' 


!l 


'3    \\ 


I  ■! 


*     ■ 


'Si  I , 


04 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUK« 


features,  though  not  very  delicate,  declared  with 
what  SHhsfactiou  they  suffered  the  fatigues  of  the 
day — for  the  glorious  purpose  of  sustaining  the 
liberties  of  a  country,  of  which  they  inhabited 
so  remote,  and  unattainable  a  portion.         ♦"*" 

Fourteen  miles  over  a  level  country,  brought 
me  late  at  night,  to  the  far-fajiied  town  of 
Utica.  -  ,.   i»iatefii.  • 

..,  i.|(  ,0^.     "^jr!,-.-      *'  •'  ■  '^  ^>■)l)il^^u.m■ 


r '•■  '  >■  <,, 


^4  • ! :  >  t . 


•.»;j » >  <• 


vi*'i 


i!     ji  r^ib     Jy!- 


*'     I  t 


««v  rT  ,       -  * ,  -t      i  ,.' 


.dl 


.1     r 


t  , 


f"   i 


t.  r    * 


iC< 


r 


rno 


.',     \t : 


un  '.. 


The  V 
isonegr 
produce 
passes  tc 
foreign  ^ 
to  the  in 
of  its  be 
with  sue 
them  at 
half  mile 
Fine  air) 
santly  ei 
grape-vi 

Thusfl 
country 
'^^as  awai 
Mbitants 


with 

.1         « .  J      '  1      - 1  ,■      ■  ■    -'    '  ' 

ftht 

r  ■  1           :  r           ^ .     1  _     '               , 

C  the 

•li'    .  r^       if<>^.l'■>^i,  .:,    '  ■  ■    ,  *•  • . 

5 

bited 

i.  --^ 

•  •ffji.',      ;     .  '*  ■  ''■-* .        \' 

ought 

1    ,<              '  •;;)     "i- 

vn   0. 

./M^.-       CHAPTER  in 

.-,-.-•■ 

„uv#f f-   .'■  '.  'n.iw^i)    'i: '    •  ;:*  .  . 

tUi^ 

' 

^    iJ-i 


)      i;     .h 


rnOM    UTICA,    TO    THE    lltAD    OF    I  AKE    CVYlC/*. 

...  --1.'       ^ 


.^,    I         1     Friday,  Seplcmbti- 7,  1S2I. 


■Wt'i  %.i'A,^ 


«r.    .  i    .. 


'i/» 


The  western  turnpike  from  Albany  to  Utica, 
is  one  great  channel,  through  which,  the  abundant 
produce  of  the  remote  counties  of  the  State 
passes  to  the  eastern  markets,  and  through  which 
foreign  goods  of  all  kinds  are  brought  in  return 
to  the  inhabitants  of  the  country :  and  on  account 
of  its  being  so  well  frequented,  it  is  supplied 
with  such  a  number  of  inns,  that  we  will  'meet 
them  at  least  every  mile,  and  sometimes  every 
half  mile  without  any  intervening  private  houses. 
Pine  airy  farm-houses  are  also  numerous,  plea- 
santly embosomed  amidst  orchards  and  wild 
grape-vines. 

Thus  far  the  condition  and  cultivation  of  the 
country  accorded  with  my  expectations :  for  I 
was  aware,  that,  wherever  the  old  German  in- 
habitants were  situated,  useless  woods  would  be 

6  ♦ 


■I' 


V' 


jtii  1' 


!    1  ■' 


^1 


1* 


!!3- 


1=  li 


1 1? 


I*f 


06 


PEDLSIHIAN    TOUU. 


■I   l 


1 4  •: 


cleared  away,  and  agriculture  would  be  I'ouiiJ 
flourishing  in  its  greatest  pcrfeclion.     But  like 
most  travellers  from  the  populous  seaboard    of 
our  states,  I  began  now  to  expect,  in  proportion 
as  I  receded   from  the  vale  of  the  Mohawk,  to 
meet  with  less  cultivation — to  traverse  a  hideous 
wilderncfis,  where  a  few  log  huts  might  have  in- 
truded themselves  upon  the  domains  of  savages 
and   wild    beasts,    and    where  stones,   stumps, 
swamps,  ravines,  creeks  and  all  the  formidable 
oppositions   on  bad   roads,    would    resist  each 
step  as  I  advanced.     The  sequel  will  show  how 
much  I  was  disappointed.     What   appeared  to 
be  swelled  accounts  of  interested  travellers,  de- 
lighting to  boast  in  hyperbolical   terms  of  the 
scenes  they  had  passed  over,  proved  to  be  not 
only  just  statements,  but  even  to  fall  short  of 
accurate  descriptions,     •..^...rrir    t  >  •li^,-'] 

Utica  is  not  one  of  those  common  villages  con- 
sisting of  only  two  rows  of  houses,  situated  on  the 
sides  of  a  main  road  ;  but  is  one  of  those  plea- 
sant towns,  like  Schenectady  or  Newburgh, 
which  have  an  agreeable  variety  oi'  streets.  Stand- 
ing atthe  bifurcation  ofthe  two  principal  ones,  we 
have  a  prospect  scarcely  equalled  by  any  in  our 
most  sumptuous  capital  cities.  On  one  hand, 
high  stores  and  ware-houses  are  perceived,  full 
oif  commotion,  and  the  doors  and  walks  flowing 
with  purchasers ;  on  the  other,  capacious  mansions 
decorated  with  front  gardens  and  trees  ;  and 
above  them  both,  ime  steeples  and  towering  meet- 
ing-houses and  academies,  that  evince  the  rising 


power 

bridges 

P^y  up  J 

pedimer 

through 

portance 
sect  it  fr 

The  C 

complete 

west  and 

'  "pied,  w 

pared  to  i 

number  oi 

I  painted. 

The    St 

iViontezum 
yo  calj  upo 
J  when  a  chs 
prs  and  pa 
b^'  Two  f 
Jem  to  a  n 

'*r  equal  U 
d  smooth] 
anks  ofthe 
orough.  Or 
iilages,  as  w 
'g  closed,  a 
^"^ly  erect 
e  place  last 

'Rome  is  on  th 
'cominaQded  il 
'&«'•»  with  a  pai 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


67 


power  and  magnificence  of  the  town.  Two 
bridges  cross  the  Mohawk  at  Utica,  and  boats 
ply  up  and  down  the  river  for  miles,  without  im- 
pediment. The  Great  Western  Canal  passes, 
through  the  outskirts,  and  adds  greatly  to  its  im- 
portance, whilst  the  chief  roads  of  the  State  inter- 
sect it  from  all  quarters.        •  - 

The  Canal  at  this  time,  was  finished  and 
completely  navigable,  ninety-six  miles  to  the 
west  and  several  miles  to  the  eastward.  Boats  oc-' 
oupied,  what  appeared  like  artificial  quays,  com- 
pared to  natural ;  and  over  the  Canal  spanned  a 
number  of  little  bridges,  very  neatly  made  and 
painted.  •  ••  '■  ^^  ' 

The    stage-boat     Oneida-Chief,     started  for 
I  Montezuma,  at  eight ;  but  having  some  persons 
to  call  upon,   I  delayed  proceeding  until  noon, 
Iwhen  a  chance  boat,  intended  partly  for  passen- 
jgers  and  partly  for  goods,  set  off  for  Canasera- 
;a.    Two  stout  black  horses  were  attached  tan- 
lem  to  a  rope  from  the  prow,  and  with  a  velo- 
city equal  to  that  of  some  stage-coaches,  we  dart- 
|d  smoothly   between  the  straight  and  regular 
janks  of  the  canal.   We  passed  through  Whites- 
)rough,  Oriskaay,  Rome,  and  other  increasing 
lillages,  as  well  as  new  settlements,  before  even- 
jig  closed,  and  at  night,  stopped  at  a  large  and 
Bwly    erected    Inn,  five  or  six  miles  beyond 
|e  place  last  mentioned.* 


.a,,' 


Rome  is  on  the  site  of  the  celebrated  Fort  Stanwiz.  This  foft 
icommaQded  in  1777  bjr  Colonel  Gansevoort,  when  Colonel  St. 
Ilger,  with  a  part  of  Burgoyne's  arm^f  and  a  great  many  ladianir, 


li 


■'    .K 


i\  <' 


\yu 


,'i 


i 


;i! 


If 


11) 


■  jii 


IK 


'  y  ■ 


li 


j» 


f  • 

»  t- 


■   t 


6B 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


01  hose 

gowns 

whimsi 

deeply 

delay  o 

of  one,  J 

under    \ 

over.     ; 

from  ( 
^oot,  alor 
what  I 


w 


Of  the  whole  rout  of  this  great  canal  from  Al- 
bany to  Lake  Erie,  the  middle  section,  between 
CTtica  and  Montezuma,  is  the  most  level,  marshy 
and  disagreeable  for  passengers.  Its  course 
winds  for  the  greater  part,  through  pestilential 
swamps,  which  have  been  chosen  as  least  expen- 
sive to  the  government,  and  which  disease 
claims  for  its  own,  bv  leveling  to  a  bed  of  sick- 
ness  every  hardy  agriculturist  that  attempts  a 
settlement.  This  however,  and  another  disad- 
vantage in  having  too  many  low  cross  bridges,  I  l  •  i~' 
from  \)<rhich  the  head  of  the  unwary  passenger  is  1 1  ^ 

in  momentary  danger,  willbe  remedied  in  time,  I..-  ■    /.    ^ 

and  will  render  travelling  in  this  mode,  muchl„/v  ^^' 

,r  •        .      .       ^  l^^fer,   s  X 

mare  gratify mg. '■  I 

'   Our   cheerful   company   of    back-woodsmen  I  '    ' 

and  village-merchants,  refreshed  with  the  cheapl  .  .  PP^"  »' 

drinks  and  capacious  chambers  of  the  new  un-l .  "^" 

skillful  inn-keeper,  pushed  on  early  through  the!        ^^  • 

marshes,    towards    Canastota  and    Canaseragaf     ^S^nie 

Near  the  braiich  canal  leading  to  Oneida  Castle-f.      '    ^" 

to»,  the  chief  residence  of  the  Oneida  Indians,  f  °^  y^^ 

s8Lw  two  families  of  that  diminished  tribe,  squat*      ""»  ""t 

irig  updn  the  grouncl,  making  hickory  broomsf     S'g'ing 

the  irieti  wore  a  hat,  a  coat,  an  apron,  and  a  kini      ^^enbu 

Wonet. 

f'er  cocked 
^^  of  a  blool 
"e  appalJedf 
^t  was  aft( 
the  way,  tj| 
^'le  canal 


suddenly  surrounded  it  and  commanded  him  to  surrender.  Gansevoo 
refused,  and  General  Herkimer,  who  advanced  with  ei(;ht  hundrj 
militia,  fell  into  an  ambcscade  of  Indians.     Under  these  circ  utnstanc 
Colonel  Willet  escaped   from  the  fort,  and  explored  the  Hiidern^ 
for  fifty  miles  to  the  settlements,  in  order  to  bring  relief  to  t^e 
rison  ;    when  Arnold  marched  with  a  body  of  American  troops^ 
St.  Ledger  precipitately  fled^  leaving  behind  bim  »1I  the  stores 
artillery. 


PEDESTRIAN    TOtTK. 


Al- 
feen 
irsby 
)urse 
iiitial 
cpen- 
isease 
sicVi- 
ftpts  a 
disad- 
)ridges, 
itiger  is 
in  time, 


ol  liose  and  mocka&ins:  the  squaws  wore  ordinary 
gowns  with  tawdry  stars,  beads,  and  buttons, 
whimsically  affixed.  We  met  many  open  boats 
deeply  loaded,  which  passed  without  the  least 
delay  on  either  side ;  it  is  merely  by  the  horses 
of  one,  stopping  and  allowing  the  rope  to  sink 
under    water,   whilst   the   other  passes  swiftly 

over.  '*'  "   "^'■''    '•   ■  H 'b/"-'"';i,  ■■'■.:. .-^'^ 

From  Canaseraga  I  continued  my  journey  on 
foot,  along  the  tow-path  of  the  canal,  through  - 
what  I  was  told  was  the  twelve'mile-swamp^  a 
hideous  extent  of  morass,  which  was  succeeded 
by  another  of  nine  miles.  Entering  into  the 
thick  forest  about  twilight,  I  observed  shortly 
J,  tnuch|j^j*fgp^   gjjj   j^gj^   approaching    on    the   opposite 

mound  :  the  two  in  front  were  soldiers  well 
)odsmen|gq^jppgj .  ^q  ^avo  following  were  young  men 
kc  cneapi^j^l^  ^^^^^  arms  crossed  over  each  other'* 
"^^,  ^J^'|shoulder  :  the  next  was  also  a  young  man,  with- 
ut  regimentals  who  was  followed  by  a  stout  cor- 
oral.  When  nearly  opposite  where  I  stood,  the 
ingle  young  man  made  a  spring  from  off  the 
ound,  but  was  instantly  caught  by  the  corporal, 
truggling  ensued  ;  he  swore  he  would  not  go 
brooi  ■  Qregnbysh .  ^nd  the  corporal  presented  his 
^  *  |ayonet.  He  was  still  refractory,  when  the  sol- 
ier  cocked  his  piece  and  took  aim.  I  was  fear- 
r  Gansevoji  ^f  ^  bloody  Scene  in  this  horrid  swamp  ;  but 
'^  umstancPe  appalled  deserter  proceeded  forward. 
the  wiidernJ  It  was  after  ten  when  I  reached  Salina,  passmg 
ief  to  t^ie  «|  ^^g  vf^iy^  the  first  two  locks  in  the  whole  course 
lui«  «^w9  *  *^^  canal  from  Utica,     Salina  is  noted  for  its 


toug 


;h  the| 
aseraga 
a  Castle^ 
ndians, 
e,  squatj 


1 , 1 


»  ' 


,.M^^ 


'  m  i 


i 


II: 


f'l! 


■i'. 


;;/  • 


fv 

».-'. 


ItL    f. 


■ji: 


It 


ft     ' 


111' 


to 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


/ook  ri( 

which  tc 

!5rood  fn 

the  groui 

nearer  W{ 

we  perce 

houses  ar 

kitchen-g; 

we  stoppe 

beautiful 

pleasure  g 

The  broj 

(ed  our  eye 

t'xpanse   s; 


great  saltworks  and  its  neighbouring  Salt  oi 
Onondago  Lake.  At  eleven  the  passing  stage- 
boats  were  announced  by  the  shrill  blast  of  horns. 
I  stepped  into  the  Swift-line,  and  was  furnished 
with  a  birth  in  a  neat  little  cabin.  The  voice  of 
a  "beautiful  damsel"  calling  me,  in  mistake, 
from  an  opposite  birth,  waked  me  in  the  night, 
while  the  beams  of  the  moon  shone  brilliantly 
through  the  large  windows :  the  driver  was 
smacking  his  whip  ;  and  the  trees  greyly  illumi- 
nated were  receding  past  in  quick  succession. 

From  Weed's  Basin,  where  a  few  houses  are 
collected,    a    hurried    pace    over    an    uneven 
tract  of  excellent  land,  brought  me  to  Auburn 
in  time  to  take  the  stage-coach  thence  to  theiamong  din 
village  of  Cayuga,  at  the  northern  extremity  olltated  by  a 
Cayuga  Lake.      The  speedy  departure  of  theldoubly  wel 
coach  prevented  me  from  examining  the  neTylso  long  im 
State-Prison  at  Auburn.     It  rears  its  extensivelof  corn  an 
towers  and  battlements  over  a  wide  lield  in  theiipon  the  ft 
outskirts  of   the  village :    additional  walls  arefteemed  to  r 
adding    to  its  strength,  and  the  portion  whiclilhe    lake, 
was  burnt  down  by  the  convicts  in  their  attempftouds  of  tl 
to  escape,  is  now  nearly  replaced.     Auburn  is  rendered  pec 
large  and  increasing  place,  situated  upon  th»>ngest  in   i 
sides  of  a  hollow,  through  which  the  outlet  oitates,  stretc 
Owasco  Lake  flows.     Many  of  its  houses  arfs,  over  the  ^ 
of  brick.  Ipposite  ba 

Approaching  towards  Cayuga,  we  enter  fJ  Having  a 
the  first  upon  those  level  plains,  of  which  iw  Ithaca,  I 
whole  country  for  several  hundred  miles  wesi7  way  to  t 
ward,  entirjly  consists.      The  farms,  howeveprds;    an 


m 


PEDESTRIAN    lOUR. 


n 


It  ov 

tage- 

lorns. 

Ashed 

ice  of 

stake, 

nigbt, 

liantly 

r   was 

illumi- 

ion. 

ses  are 

uneven 


look  rich  ;  orchards  abound,  and  peach-trees, 
which  to  the  eastward,  scarcely  produce  a  dozen 
good  fruit  in  the  season,  are  here  hanging  to 
the  ground  with  their  loads  of  ripe  peaches.  The 
nearer  we  come  to  the  lake,  the  more  attention 
we  perceive  given  to  horticulture.  Few  /arm- 
houses  are  destitute  of  their  flower  as  well  as 
kitchen-gardens,  and  one  fine  mansion,  where 
we  stopped  on  the  way,  is  remarkable  for  the 
beautiful  walks  and  tasteful  arrangements  of  its 
pleasure  grounds. 

The  broad  white  wa*;ers  of  Cayuga  Lake,  salu- 
ted our  eyes  all  of  a  sudden,  with  its  refreshing 
\uburi:i  I  expanse  spreading  north  and  south  till  lost 
>  to  thelamong  dim  and  dusky  hills.  Pleasingly  agi- 
;mity  oiltated  by  a  cool  southerly  breeze,  it  appeared 
of  theldoubly  welcome  to  me,  especially  after  being 
he  ne^lso  long  immured  amongst  fbrrists.  Ripe  fieHs 
[xtensivelof  corn  and  stuccoed  cottaj.:es  were  scattered 
in  theppon  the  farther  shores  ,  ie[;tiar  nd<yes  of  land 
lalls  arefcemed  to  rise,  overtopping^  each  'v^^ar  beyond 
whicliihe  lake,  and  meeting  obscurel)  with  the 
jj^ejnpftlouds  of  the  sky, — whiist  ail  the  prospect  was 
urn  is  lendered  peculiarly  interesting  by  a  bridge,  the 
pon  thtngest  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  United 
utlet  oftates,  stretching  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  beneath 
uses  arls*  over  the  wide  sheet  of  water  to   die  distant 

ipposite  bauflcs.  -^ 

nter  fol  Having  an  introductory  note  to  a  gej«tleman 

hich  tbi  Ithaca,  I  was  indecisive  whether  to  sail  out  of 

les  west y  way  to  that  village,  or  advance  directly  on- 

howeve^rds;    an  old  gentleman  at  the  Inn  in  Ca- 


n 


.) ' 


.■•i).-: 


'11 


n 


PEDESTRIAN    TO¥R. 


i^ 


\  r" 


u 


yuga,  soon  decided  the  question,  by  describing 
some  of  the  great  natural  beauties  at  the  head 
of  the  lake.  The  steamboat  which  sails  to  Ithaca 
was  to  start  the  next  morning. 

Meantime  my  landlord,  who  was  a  sociable  and 
remarkably  learned  man  for  his  station  in  life, 
accompanied  me  in  a  walk  to  several  small 
mineral  springs,  upon  the  shore  of  the  lake.  They 
covered  the  stones  about  them  with  a  thick  sul- 
phurous  crust.  Air  bubbles  swelled  now  and 
then  from  the  bottom  of  the  fountains,  but  not 
emitting  any  disagreeable  odour,  the  gas  could  nol 
have  been  inflammable.  Sulphur  springs  abound 
in  these  districts.  The  lower  stratum  of  the 
banks,  which  are  not  very  lofty  here,  is  sulphate 
of  lime  or  gypsum,  of  an  impure  quality,  yet  so 
much  esteemed  by  the  farmers,  even  in  preference 
to  the  imported  Nova  Scotia  gypsum,  that  gen 
eral  use  is  made  of  it  on  their  lands  ;  and  boatsi 
convey  it  from  the  quarries  down  the  outlet  ai 
Montezuma,  and  thence  by  the  Great  Canal  oveil 
the  whole  country.  And  here  it  may  not  ba 
amiss  to  observe,  that  the  level  plains,  between 
this  and  Lake  Erie,  appear,  beneath  the  alluvioDJ 
to  be  composed  of  one  layer  of  lime  variouslj 
combined,  and  containing  shells  and  animal  re 
mains,  another  layer  of  massive  slate,  and  tli 

owermost,  beds  of  sandstone,  which  are  all  ts] 
posed  to  view  in  the  deep  ravines  and  chasms 
the  streams.  ^• 

My  time  passed  pleasantly  upon  a  spot  so  de 
lightful  as  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Lake  Cayu^ 


5  j 


waves, 
vista    ( 
thought 
iiant   tr 
'ted  the 
• laini  to 
of  a  skiff 
■'ho re ;  a 
notes  in 
In  the 
^topped  ; 
principal 
fora,  both 
^^e  landec 
fs  thirty-i 
generally 
^''e  steep  f 
'I'ch,  (hat 
reaci)ed  th 
"ot  permit 
^^  the  hotf 
home  ;  an< 
"1  order  fu 
ind  braut) 


'J'he  stat( 
^enes,  the 

*  %  particuU 


TEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


i-> 


ibing 

head 

ithaca 


►le  and 
n  life, 
small 
.  They 
ck  suU 
ow  and 
but  not 
ould  not 
5  abound 


At  night  the  moon  rose  in  full  splendour,  and 
reflected  its  uncertain  beams  from  the  glittering 
waves,  as  I  strolled  under  a  long  and  natural 
vista  of  Linden  trees  upon  the  beach,  and 
thought  of  the  dispossessed  Cayugas,  a  val- 
liant  tribe  of  the  Iroquois,  who  once  inhab- 
ited the  surrounding  territories,  and  still  lay 
claim  to  the  Lake,  and  its  borders.  "^Fhe  oars 
of  a  skin*  splashed  in  the  water  near  the  opposite 
shore  ;  a  whipperwill  whistled  his  melancholy 
notes  in  the  branches  of  a  neiirhbourinti;  oak. 

In  the    passage  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  wc 

topped  at  a  number  of  places  on  each  side,  the 

ii  of  tneB  principal  of  which  were  Union-springs  and  Au- 

sulphatel  roYa,  both  handsome  villages;  and  in  the  evening 

ty,  yet  sol  ^.g  landed  two  miles  from  Ithaca.    Cayuga  lake 

reference!  ,g  thirty-five  miles  and   a   half  in  length,  and 

hat  geti-i generally  three   miles  in    breadth.     The    banks 

and  boats!  ^,.p  gteep  and  wood^'  ;  and  the  depth  of  the  water 

outlet  a^lsuch,  that  in  soiie  parts  a  sounding  line  has  not 

anal  '^vei!,.^^^ljg(^l  ^[^g  bottom.     My  friend  in  Ithaca  would 

y  not  bWiiot  permit  me  upon  any  consideration  to  remain 

betwee!!;^j.  ^]^^  hotel,  but  obliged  me  to  make  his  '.ouse  a 

'  alluvionBj^^^^-jg  .  r^^^  pressed  me  to  stay  a  numl)er  of  days. 

various»,^^j.^gj,  ^^y^,  to  examine  the  surprising  grandeur 

nimal  leinfl  beauty  of  the  scenery  in  that  vicinity, 
and  tbf 

THE    FALLS    OF    ITHACA.'^ 

The  state  oi  New- York,  in  the  variety  of  ii> 
:enes,  the  great  number  of  its  lakes,  and  the 

*  By  particular  request,  the  substance  of  thjs  description  of  the  Fall? 

f(hn.c{>,  was  published  iii  a  New-York  paper  as'  soon  n«  the  Tom 

n 
t 


ive  all  t'i 
I  chasms 

)ot  so  de 

Le  Cayu^ 


.'1  r  »  . 


k 


'I' 


1 , 1 


•iii: 


«'■■ 


/\' 


.W      lit 


.  'i 


rl3 

ImmJ 


-■51 


t 


^i-, 


\ 


»     :■>' 


lit 

In      *    ' 


1   \:W\ 

I     ;■     f,   I  J' 


l\^ 


'     \ 


!:1' 


74 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


beauty  of  its  mountains,  rivers,  and  water-falls, 
stands  unrivalled  above  every  other  state  in  the 
Union.  Many  of  its  copious  mineral  fountains 
and  its  lofty  cascades  have  attracted  travellers 
from  distant  quarters  of  the  globe — and  many 
others  as  extraordinary,  are  still  embosomed 
amidst  the  impenetrable  forests  of  the  western 
regions,  unseen  by  man — or  if  newly  exposed  by 
the  hand  of  cultivation,  still  viewed  with  careless 
indifterence  by  the  passing  rustic,  with  the 
sound  alone  of  crashing  rocks  and  prowling 
beasts,  to  disi  urb  their  uniform  tranquility.  Even 
0*7  the  well  frequented  rout  to  the  Grand  Falls  ol 
Niagara  !;^ud  the  larger  Lakes,  are  places,  in  which 
Nature  wields  her  sceptre  with  unbounded  beau- 
tv  and  sublimity:  the  tourist,  uninformed  of  the 
scene,  or  else  indifferent  about  a  place  as  yet 
little  known,  hurries  onward,  contenting  himself 
with  the  cursory  description  ^f  some  neighbour- 
ing inn-keeper. 

Ithaca  is  a  place  of  this  description.  As  th( 
outlet  o»'  Cayuga  lake  has,  in  process  of  time, 
worn  away  the  rocky  bed  over  which  its  waters 
ilescend  to  the  Oswego  river,  the  surface  of  tin 
La  ie  has  h>vvered,  and  left  at  its  head,  an  allu- 
vial plain,  and  at  its  northern  extremity,  the  wide| 
jnarshes  of  Cayuga  and  Montezuma.  In  ever} 
other  part,  ihe  hanks  rise  loftily  to  the  height  oi| 
ihree  or  four  luuuhed  feet,  impressing  the  mim 
with  the  idea  of  a  great  cleft  in  the  earth,  halil 

vras  cocrjyj'eled.  I  trust  it  will  not  be  esteemed  a  plagiarism  of  in  I 
.>wn,  in  ■•■!;.S£rv!ng'n*tir!y  ill'"  .»!«nie  lai\gMJjg*;. 


iiiled  ^ 
fy-iive 

•>ack-^ 
populc 
every  s 
'jy  the 
great  w 
die  hea( 
with  th 
bids  fai 
fion,  an 
ornamer 
bottom  c 
the  moi 
ed,  runs 
^nd  maki 
che  Laki 
tumbles 
«^ast  of  t 
^n  tlie  ro 
inouutaii 
dismal  gi 
the  shag^ 
^ive  leaps 
and  thirty 
i'his  is  ti 
iiave  had 
^emarkabl 
them,  in  t 
a.Ford   ful 
ibe  freque 
'^'hich  was 


iUi 


I 


hf' 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


?^> 


jstern 
edby 
reless 
h   the 
)wling 

Even 
rails  ol 
I  which 
i  beau- 
l  of  the 

as  yet 
himseh 
rhhouv- 

As  tht 
f  time, 
waters  I 
i  of  the 
m  allu-l 
he  wide! 
11  ever}  I 
eight  oil 
Ihe  inivvj 
I'th,  hall 

l,i«m  of  111 


iilled  with  water.  Upon  the  plain  where,  twen- 
ty-(ive  years  ago,  only  a  few  huts  of  solitary 
i)ack-vvoods-men  was  to  be  seen,  now  stands  the 
populous  village  of  Ithaca.  Enclosed  on  almost 
every  side  by  beautiful  mountains,  surrounded 
by  the  most  fertile  lands,  situated  on  one  of  the 
ijreat  western  turnpikes  from  New  burgh,  and  at 
ihe  head  of  a  navigable  lake,  which  communicates 
tvith  the  Grand  Canal,  this  flourishing  village 
bids  fair  to  become,  in  manufactures,  popula- 
tion, and  extensive  buildings,  one  of  the  first 
ornaments  of  the  inland  country.  From  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  valley  or  ravine,  worn  between 
the  mountains,  Nine-mile-Creek,  as  it  is  term- 
ed, runs  west  of  the  village  through  the  plain, 
and  makes  a  navigable  channel  for  two  miles  to 
the  Lake.  The  Cascadilla,  a  romantic  brook, 
tumbles  from  a  hollow  chasm,  and  continues 
«^ast  of  the  village  till  it  unites  with  Fall  River, 
[n  the  rocky  substance  of  the  highest  part  of  the 
mountain,  half  a  mile  east  of  the  Cascadilla,  a 
dismal  gulf  gaps  dark  and  wide,  and  far  within 
the  shaggy  clifts  steep  after  steep,  in  six  succes- 
sive leaps.  Fall  River  rolls  it  current  four  hundred 
and  thirty-eight  i'eet  downwards  to  the  plain. 
Fhis  is  the  tremendous  scene,  which  those  who 
have  had  opportunities  of  comparing  with  other 
remarkable  places,  assert  to  be  superior  to  all  of 
them,  in  the  sublimest  touches  of  nature,  and  to 
a.Ford  full  as  much  pleasure  to  the  beholder  as 
the  frequented  Falls  of  Niagara:  an  assertion 
vhich  was  confirnaed  in  my  opinion,  when  I  ar- 


i  i ', 


tft  i 


f  11 


■'    ■-)  'I 


HI 


'•! 


I    ■• 


i).  ; 


^1 


r; 


t  t 


• ) 


t  ? 


r  • 

'X 


'  ■ 


7G 


rEDLSifSIAN    TOUR. 


rived  at  Niagara  a  few  days  after,  and  saw  that 
rataract  with  little  more  admiration  than  this  re- 
markable place  excited. 

My  obliging  entertainer,  whose  acquaintance 
with  the  way,  enable  him  to  skip  from  rock  to 
rock  without  any  risk,  and  whom  I  with  diffi- 
culty followed,  lead  me  first  to  a  mill-dam,  belov> 
the  lowermost  leap  of  the  river :  here  the  sides  o\ 
(he  mountain  rise  abruptly  on  the  left,  parti}' 
concealing  with  trees  and  bushes  the  horizontal 
layers  of  slate  rock  which  form  the  basis.  The 
river  falls  directly  before  us,  over  an  even  ledge, 
116  feet  in  one  broad  unbroken  sheet,  and  aftei 
foaming  at  the  bottom  and  sending  up  volumes 
of  spray,  expands  into  a  smooth  limpid  pond. 
The  gloomy  sides  of  the  chasm  are  seen  at  a  dib- 
tance  above.  Ailixed  against  the  over-hanging 
rock  on  our  right,  which  rears  its  ragged  bro\\ 
more  than  two  hundred  feet  perpendicular ;  the 
raceway  or  water-course  of  the  mills,  winds 
around  at  an  immense  elevation,  till  it  is  hidden 
from  view  behind  a  projecting  craig.  Scanty 
bushes  cover  the  face  of  the  precipice,  and  Uk 
mills  arranged  one  beneath  another,  stand  on  the 
descending  slope  of  the  mountain. 

An  old  man  of  an  enterprising  cl>aracter,  hav- 
ing circumspectly  exammed  the  suitableness  ot 
Fall  River  for  mill-seats,  purchased  the  right 
and  immediately  commenced  his  operations  by 
taking  a  rope,  which  he  fastened  to  the  stump  ol 
a  tree  above  the  precipice,  and  lowering  himself 
down  about  seventy  feet  from   the  top  ;  where 


0 

z 


I. 


that 
s  re- 

tanci 
ck  to 
diffi- 
belov> 
(ies  01 
parti}' 
zontal 
The 
ledgt-N 
id  aftci 
olume> 

pond. 
i  a  di^- 
langing 
d  brow 
ar;  the 

winds 
hidden 

Scant)' 

nd  the 
on  the 

|er,  hav- 
;ness  ot 
^e  right 
[;ions  b} 
:unnp  o\ 
IhimseU 
where 


'i 


*    1 


.i: 


/\'.: 


'I  k 


? 


•  i\ 


^'-i'i 


*    ! 


^M 


-      <! 


(A 


I?       I 


> ' 


t 


\\\ 


'  S'jl 


rj; 


ff!" 


Ui' 


lU 


m 


mi 


\  Hi^ 


laboui 

ance,  i 

a  dam 

around 

mills. 

fie  whil 

oarefull 

^vay,  ni 

'lewas  s 

since  be 

<'ut  into 

'tbove,  a 

i'here  w; 

betneen 

'Jsings  of 

A  small  f 

<anal  to 

^veeks  bat 

'i«e  unwh< 

formed  in 

Unless  ] 

lo  the  seci 

means  tha 

'nethod  is  i 

We  mad 

l!>art  way  u[ 

jiooseill-suj 

jirtificial  Gle 
^(i  dir€GtIy  I 
'^  first  falU 
'Pon  this  gi, 


PCOeSTRIAN    TOUR. 


i7 


swinging  in  the  air,  he  made  with  the  greatest 
labour  and  perieverance,  and  with  little  assist- 
ance, the  raceway  which  conveyed  the  water  from 
a  dam  of  his  construction,  back  of  the  lower  falls, 
around  the  rocks,  to  the  wheels  of  five  different 
mills.  It  is  humourously  related,  that  every  lit- 
tle while,  he  would  quickly  pull  hrniself  up,  and 
carefully  look  arouiu'  ^^i  any  body  passing  that 
way,  niiErht  thougliH  y  cut  the  rope  by  which 
he  was  suspended.  The  water  to  the  mills  has- 
since  been  turned  from  the  old  race,  into  a  canal 
<  ut  into  the  mountain,  seven  feet  wide,  open 
iibove,  and  fifty  or  sixty  feet  below  the  surface, 
riiere  was  an  obnoxious  swamp  on  the  plain, 
between  which  and  this  place,  as  forming  the  first 
lisings  of  the  mountain,  were  high  gravelly  hills. 
A  small  stream  of  water  was  conducted  from  the 
.anal  to  the  hills,  which  in  the  course  of  two 
weeks  had  such  large  portions  swept  away,  that 
ihe  unwholesome  swamp  was  soon  after  trans- 
ibrmed  into  healthy  fields  of  corn. 

Unless  ropes  are  used  it  is  impossible  to  enter 
lo  the  second  falls  of  Fall  River,  by  any  other 
means  than  the  canal  and  raceway.  Even  this 
method  is  so  dangerous  that  very  few  attempt  it. 

We  made  a  circuit  around  the  mills,  ascended 
part  way  up  the  hill,  and  poising  ourselves  upon  a 
I  loose  ill-supported  line  6f  boards,  penetrated  the 
sirtificial  cleft,  when  turning  suddenly,  we  emerg- 
Vi\  directly  over  the  pond,  a  few  yards  in  front  of 
lie  first  falls.  Scarcely  able  to  balance  ourselves 
I  ipon  this  giddy  height,  we  look  down  with  tcr- 


i       t 


111       t 


i  ii 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


/q 

^  5.^% 


1.0 


1.1 


£   Itt   12.0 


IL25  ffl  1.4 


I 


1.6 


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V^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WiST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SM 

(716)  S72-4503 


^\ 


V 


'^ 


4s 


'^**- 

'4^%^ 


'^ 


A 


78 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


a- 


il 


fij,; 


ill    n 


h«' 


■•  j1 ; 


ji,, . 


il.i 


•:    ?. 


I 


[• 


I.  : 

u  ■ 

I'M- 


f 


J 


ror,  whilst  the  foaming  falls  of  the  stream  sound 
in  our  ears,  and  the  rugged  cliffs  hang  threaten- 
ing over  our  heads.  Continuing  along  the  race- 
way, here  clambering  under  the  rocks,  and  here 
hanging  by  the  roots  of  trees,  we  drop  ourselves 
at  last  at  the  water's  edge,  where  it  is  necessary 
to  take  off  sboesand  stockings  and  wade  with  the 
greatest  care  along  the  slippery  brink  of  the 
stream,  where  a  wrong  step  might  immerge  a 
solitary  adventurer  in  a  watery  grave. 

There  is  a  piece  of  ground  in  the  gulf  which 
the  river  does  not  cover.    Square  fragments  are 
scattered  over  it  in  heaps,  as  if  some  antique  edi- 
fice had  lately  fallen  to  the  dust,  and  Walure, 
pleased  with  its  demolition,  had  strewed  among 
the  stones,  her  sweetest  flowering  shrubs  to  con- 
ceal it  wholly  from  the  world.     From  this  place 
is  obtained  the  noblest  view  of  the  dreadful  ob- 
jects by  which  the  spectator  is  enveloped.*   Liko 
the  mouldering  walls  and  pilasters  of  some  loft} 
palace  of  ancient  Greece,    upon  the  projecting 
Cornishes  of  which,    the   face  of  magnificence 
still  smiles  through  crumbling  stones  and  adven- 
titious weeds;  so  the  vast  c raises  of  the  chasm 
mount  stupendous  on  the  right  and  on  the  left : 
their  nodding  heads  stoop  to  viev/  their  broken 
foundations :  their  bush-crowned  summits  lift  on 
high  the  half  rooted-hemlocks :  with  pile  upon  pile, 
which  the  industrious  hand  of  man  seems  to  have 
heaped,  stretches  from  end  to  end  of  the  long  vist<i 
of  rocky  colonades.    The  second  falls  strike  the 


a 


In  on 
a  high  J 
'ond, 
'he  ledg 
•ertaintj 
nothing 
<Jescent  i 
also  rise 
''etween 
?ed,  in  01 

staircase 
**lioalest  p 
's  not  ve 
''^aircase  f 


i  sound 
ireaten- 
he  race- 
nd  here 
Lirselves 
^cessary 
with  the 
of  the 
nerge 


a 


f  which 
ents  are 
que  edi- 
Nalure. 
d  among 
3  to  con- 
lis  place 
idfui  ob- 
i.*   Likt 
ime  loft) 
rojecting 
nif]cenc( 
id  adven- 
le  chasm 
the  left : 
r  broken  I 
its  lift  on 
ipon  pile. 
[IS  to  have! 
long  vistil 
strike  thcl 


PEDESTHIAN    TOUR.  7^ 

'ice:  the  Shewed  „r    ^'""""^  S'^omy  cre- 
-To  look  backTomthVn' ""'"""  ^''''**"»- 

'"•ndred  and  /iftrfe.?  '^V  ^^  """'^  "'="'  "v*^- 
Pi'lars,  tl.e  dista  [  h^  '  f  r"''"''^  ""^^  o"" 
•■'""ds  and  endless  fir  n,  .'""""'^^  ""•!  "-^ 

-feelconscionl:  o    .  nstifi  ^'°"''  '"^^"P' 
-th  a,re  and  astonish4enf'' ""'' "'""'' 

"'-••■  grandeur  andXXncT  ''.''''""  ^ 

•"S^^sji^j^if^t-^-asc;.. 

•■°nd,   and    climb  T  ""^  '"^^  "f"  Ae  se- 

"-  'edge.  wi«;:o  jtr  t'^^  '^i-ti, ; 

..ertainty  of  getting  com^L.r'''  ""^  "'""  » 

'^fsoent  is  thirty-one  fee.      Th        f  '^"'-     The 

•"^o  rise  on  each  side  of  th.     ,  '°'"'""'""  '^""'^ 

^^''veen  this  cataract  a     Z  a^r^w'"^  ^'«'"' 

?ed,  m  order  to  obtain  a  si!L    i-'  ,  ^  ^""^  °'''''- 

:f-e  falls.  eocirbupljLf  '""'''•- 
^boalest  part  of  the  thiM  .  manner,  the 

;.-ver,perpeLt:l"^f,?^,''°'^--' 
---^al.isabo„tfift;,J"^^?:it 


■  y 

■  t 


"*  . 


il 


I   'i  'f    '     ■ 

1  'i    F  A 


m 


'i^^n': 


*  c, 


Wpf  t*. 


li 


Mi, 


^Ir 


1' 

fi' 

7 . 


m  PBD^STRIAK   TOUR. 

very  deep  in  the  rntervening  space  ;  aiid  as  we 
wade  along  the  edge,  wc  may  see  at  the  bottom 
of  the  transparent  fluid,  great  c^kes  of  stone 
cracked  in  all  directions,  like  a  pavement  oi 
irregular  slabs  of  marble.  By  ascending  a  rain- 
gully  on  the  left,  with  very  great  difficulty  we 
reach  the  top  of  the  bank,  and  by  descending 
another  steep  and  dangerous  gully,  we  come  in 
front  of  the  fifth  and  highest  of  the  upper  falls, 
It  pitches  seventy  feet  in  a  most  beautiful  cas- 
<:ade.  The  scenery  around  is  elegant,  and  with- 
out the  terrifying  aspect  of  hideous  fragmenis 
ready  to  fall  and  crush  us  to  death.  The  sixtli 
and  uppermost  falls,  like  Ihe  fifth,  is  attainable 
by  a  gully  down  the  bank.  It  is.  a  pleasant  cata- 
ract of  twenty-eight  feet. 

Thus,  in  the  space  of  less  than  half  a  mile, 
this  river  precipitates  itself  nearly  440  feet  in  six 
beautiful  falls,  the  smallest  of  which  alone,  in  a 
different  part  of  the  country,  would  be  looked 
upon  as  a  great  curiosity.  Between  each  of  the 
falls  are  rapids  of  considerable  descent.  It  is 
remarkable  what  striking  resemblances  to  fabrics 
of  human  invention,  are  cast  over  many  parts  oi 
this  place.  I'his  adds  to  its  attractions ;  as  the 
mind  enjoys  peculiar  delight  in  tracing  resem- 
blances in  the  works  of  art  to  those  of  nature; 
so,  in  this  case  it  increases  our  admiration,  upon 
finding  among  these  tremendous  objects  of  na- 
ture, some  feature  which  reminds  us  of  the  ope- 
rations of  our  fellow-creatures.  The  chief  rea- 
.son  why  Fall-River  has  not  been  much  noticed 


JS  111 

(liffi. 

tiiec 

of  jl 

^'oun( 

'age  a 

^tddei 

'neans 

I  iesoj 

/'aunLs 
'Jiy  obs 
'dentici 
lieavy  i 

there  w 

•'»  secure 

The  , 

'emarka 

1'^  possess 
urging 

k^'ides  ov< 
[^ide  fiigh 

p'«phithei 
'^'hicii  is  a 

Niitheatre 
Ired  feet ; 
h  outlet 
|nJ  bushes 
^ard  at  the 
flowery  t 
-avy  pines 


i  as  we 
i  bottom 
of  stone 
ment  of 
r  a  rain- 
culty  we 
jcending 
come  in 
per  falls, 
iful  cas- 
nd  with- 
agmen<f 
^he  sixth 
ttainable 
ant  cata- 

'  a  mile, 
eet  in  six 
one,  in  a 
B  looked 
;h  of  the 
it.  It  is 
to  fabrics 

parts  of 
\;  as  the 
y  resem- 
*  nature; 
[)n,  upon 
ts  of  na- 
the  ope- 
hief  rea- 

notice<J 


""'"^in?  upon  an  elevated  "1    '  ''"'''^"'  "°" 
lage  and  the  rive,   intin  . 7     L   *''"''^"  '•''«  ^il- 

Wavmg  now  learned  the  wav  fnh    "   " 
"^^"'•teda  number  of  tin  estl   ,       '"""''• 
•a"n(s.  taking  .Iravvng,  a  ,Tr       ,    '"'  ^'"«'"y  • 
'"/  observations  of  thefr;  '  f/''"'''"'^'  ''^  "'"»'• 
"'•^'"ioa.  chasms  and  hoT      ""'•  "'"""  *''-'' 
'^avy  shower  descend.H         '"•■"''"^  '^«"«-     A 

»  secure  retreat  from  ti.e  rain  "'  '°  ''"■"^'' 

''■e  "'^>'t  interesting  place  at  th       ' 
emarkable  for  the  oartr^J  ,    .        "'''^'  »°  'ess 
"'«f<ers  there,  than  fo   t,  1''  '""'^"'°'-  °''  the 

possesses,  is  the  Cascaddla'"  rr'"™'  '■'''='™'' 
"•■g'ng   its  way    throuJ,  1      ^''^''^e«'».  after 
^'■'des  cer  a  rocky  de  cent  "7T  ^"P'  «^"*'^ 
,""'«  flight  of  steps  to  th!    '  "'""''  '•^'•^•nWes  a 
hpOitheatre.     Immed    !.,    'r"'"  °''''  «P''-'°"s 
H"^''  '^  as  level  Ta  flo?  ^„  '~'"  "^e  bottom, 
}»'heatre  rise  to  tl  hei  , ',    f  ""'"  °' '"«  "«■ 

^<;  outlet  of  the  streanf  whS  !  '  '"''P' 

°J  hushes  entirely  do  'e      T.     '""'"''"*  "•««* 


^  i' 


•tr'^'^i! 


* 


m 


PEDESTIIIA'N    TOUn. 


•'P 


»>• 


(•  t ' 


in  the  course  of  time,  part  of  their  foundations, 
lean  from  side  to  side,  till  their  leafy  tops  almost 
meet  above  the  centre.     A   solemn  gloom  per- 
vades the  whole  of  tlie  capacious  Hall.     Scarce- 
ly a  ray  of  the  scorching  midsummer  sun  obtrudes 
into  this  cool  retreat.     With  a  hollow  murmur, 
the  water  ripples  around  the  floor,  leaving  the 
tjrcater  part   dry  ;  while   plants,  whicb  sprout 
from  the  crannies,  load  the  air  with  a  delicious 
fragrance.     As   imagination  figures  the  uncan- 
opied  theatres  of  Rome  and  Greece  with  their 
galleries,  their  actors,  their  curtains,  their  masks, 
the  transitory  wish  passes  over  the  mind,  that, 
one  day,  the  bare  rock  of  this  temple  of  Nature 
may  be  concealed  by  the  brilliant  countenances 
of  spectators,  and  the  voice  of  a  modern  Phile- 
mon roil  in  musical  accents  around  the  wall.— 
Polite  assemblies  have  indeed  already  convened 
here.     About  two  months  previous,  tea  was  serv- 1  the  wale 
ed  in  rural  style,   to  a  large  concourse  of  ladie^lagjiity  q/ 
and  gentlemen,   in  which  the  tables  were  coni  the  fallen 
structed  of  large  slabs  of  slate     Another  party  oil  "'pacious 
the  Misses  of  the  village  assembled  soon  after.  ItlCascadiilj 
must  have  been  a  novel  and  interesting  sight,  toland  tlfty  > 
fmd  so  gay  a  company  in  a  place  so  unusal;  whilst.!  rather  sir 
as  in  the  feasts  of  the  golden   age,  the  voice  oicircle  is 
'^jocund  mirth"  would  rise  at  times  and  minglJHanting  b 
with  the  murmurs  of  the  falling  brook.    '**"      f 'ternate  s 
The  broad  ravine  of  Nine-mile  Creek,  extend§lifferent  s 
half  a  mile  to  the  ledge  of  rocks  over  which  itwibbons  arc 
water  dashes  about  fifty  feet.     Many  beautiful"  front,  £q 
and  romantic  walks  are  afforded  among  the  <iv'*^phitbeat 


light 

this  s 

Bu 

vicini 

empti 

into  J 

twelv< 

me  the 

accom 

We  cas 

We 

piece  o 

^ery  ex 

'ike  the 

nver,  b 

the  ravii 

w^here   i 

through 


idations. 
8  almost 
)om  per- 

Scarce- 
obtrudes 
murmur, 
ving  the 
[i  sprout 
delicious 
e  uncan- 
rith  their 
ir  masks, 
nd,  that, 
F  Nature 
itenances 
rn  Phile- 
6  wall. — 
convened 
was  serv- 

of  ladies^ 
vere  con- 
:r  party  ol 
1  after.  It 
;  sight,  to 
il ;  whilst 
I  voice  oi| 
nd  mingl 

{,  extend! 
which  ill 
'  beautiful 
ng  the  d< 


I'EDESTRIAN    TOVR.  ^ 

empties  '^tseS^^  1'^:;::^^';  "^'  '^'"^•'' 
into  Lake  Cayur  t?  ""^'°"' '''«  ^'"'»«f 
t«velve  miles     A        J      ''""•"•=''  ''y  '='•"'  1* 

accompany  me  on  ,L  !'     ''  '"^''"^  '"'"»«'f  '<> 
(•le  cascade.  '"'"■°"  '"  ""«  ^<=n.arka- 

We  left  the  chaise  at  Goodwin'. 
P-ece  of  groun.l,  which   ;"  ctlfc  ?°'"''  "  '^^•'" 
very  extremity,  and  whirh  "^*''.'''^"''^«  to  th<. 

'"^e  the  ,and  'bonuh:    o  ,    /nf  *;'|-^  ':--^ 
"ver,  by  the  ,»r-„l...t         .  "  'Mississippi 

"-  ravin'e  o.  b'dt"  hi"  ""'"  °''  ^=""'  °«  '• 

Arough  an  immense  ...ili-    P^^.*^^<*   ""e  mile 

'he  water,  anT  leU  los"!  """  "'"''"'  "■ 
^'gi'ity  of  squirrel,  "^'"'"^^''^'PP'ng  with   th.- 

'•>«  fallen  rr'fX'st.?/"'''"''--      ■ 
,  spacious  amphitheatrr  ; J  I      *"^"'  ""*"^'-^  " 

•'»d  «%  yards  in  dian.e,;:  Lh         °""  '"""'^"' 
'"her  sinks,  above    h.l,:"*"'"*«*8''f.o. 

h'>cle  is  nearly  coVpl!  l;'""*"  "^'-  l^"* 
wonting  by  whichTf ':l:r  x-'^  "'^'  P*" 
alternate  strata  of  eZh,  ^^'  "'«  '"p. 

Kent  shades.  X'riTbr^'''^''- 
V'bbons around  the  brim  wk'  k  u      '"*'  '•"'  *"  " 

'fro„t,forthepX"'rftt"\''^P''°''-'' 
^"P-it.eatre.   Over  aLl^ X:.!^ 


>^    , 


^1  '\ 


I  if 


'    ■  * 

I 

'I 

.     i 

"I 


■,    if 

Ml-  f 

ijii.  ■ 


III  ■ 


1; 

it  , 


t4 


PKDKSTRIAN    TOUR. 


shelf,  projecting  beyond  the  uniform  surface  ot 
the  rock,  the  slream  pours  down,  like  water  from 
a  tea-pot  spout,  more  than  two  hundred  feet. 
<^ushin^  over  twelve  or  tifteen  feet,  and  leaving 
the  wall  behind  the  cascade  quite  dry.  Beforr 
it  has  fallen  halfway,  it  becomes  rain  and  spray, 
and  creates  such  a  strong  bree/e,  that  we  feel  the 
mist  blowing  into  o»ir  faces,  at  the  distance  of  a 
hundred  yards.  It  makes  a  hissing  sound  ap- 
proaching the  noise  of  a  heavy  shower  ot"  rain  fal- 
ling upon  the  smooth  surface  of  a  river.  Vapours 
roll  in  thin  aerial  clouds  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance around ;  and  only  by  approaching  within 
them,  can  the  surprising  height  of  the  wonderful 
water-Adl  he  properly  conceived.  The  bare  faced 
rock  scOwls  awful,  tremendous,  and  gloomy, 
adorned  with  a  rough  edge  on  the  summit  ot 
cedars  and  scathed  pine  trees.  With  little  cost 
to  the  imagination,  pilasters,  arches,  nitches,  en- 
lablatures,  are  figured  upon  the  face  of  the  walls, 
in  airthe  proud  magnilicence  of  old  ivy  crowned 
Gothic  ruins.  So  diminutive  do  objects  appear 
beneath  the  tremendous  precipices,  that  a  heap 
of  fragments  which  have  fallen  from  the  shelf  to 
the  bottom  of  the  cascade,  of  which  one  piecr 
alone  would  require  the  efforts  of  twenty  oxen 
and  as  many  men  to  remove,  appears,  at  a  smal! 
distance  off,  no  more  than  a  light  waggon  load 
of  building  stone.  Large  trees,  which  grow 
witliin  the  amphitheatre  are  but  bushes.  Thel 
cascade  itself,  on  account  of  the  terrific  height 
of  the  surrounding  cliffs,  appears  not  only  lesc 


situj 

A 

node 

fail, 

ill  siJ 

the  V 

Jisof 

at  th 

>ough 

Some 

totteri 

weath< 

appiyi 

gantic 

into  Ic 

valley. 

Ithac 

liouses. 

timelsj 

like  son 

person 

I'ocks,  k 

and  case 

rers  of  n 

whilst  th 

and  grati 

tive  obse] 

^tisfacto] 

The  CO 

<>f    a    hu 


l^Uh 


lurface  ot 
ater  from 
I  red  feet. 
J  leaving 
.  Beforr 
nd  spray, 
^e  feel  the 
J nee  of  a 
Dund  ap- 
f  rain  fal- 

V  a  pours 
rable  dis- 
ng  within 
vonderful 
>are  faced 

glconiy, 
unimit  of 
litlle  cost 
tches,  en- 
tile walls. 
^  crowned 
ts  appear 
It  a  heap 
ie  shelf  to 
3ne  piecT 
entv  oxen 
at  a  sniai! 
5gon  load 
lich  grow 
^es.  The 
fic  height 

only  lesc 


^ 


I^BDESTRIAN   TOUH.  ^ 

situation.  "  '°  ••«  "»  ^"y  other 

Astonished  with  the  height  nf  .k 
nodding  cliffs    anH   A      ?"' ™  ""«  ""mbling. 
fall,  we^tj^;  ,0'  iV'"^"'*'  "^""^  °f  the 

'"  -ience.  one  o/^  t  f  ™  « 'orT '''"'"^ 
the  works  or  nature.  The  rfTf  •'*"'  ""°"« 
"S  of  the  lapse  of  t^.  ^ho  dechn.ng  sun  warned 

»'  the  botfroThriiTar^''^^^^^^^ 

>ought  airain  tho  P  .  ^  J^'^^"'*'^  %ss;   and   we 

w  oSSrhicLTfa';  ';f '-'  — ^- 

totterincr  as  w^  no  Ji  ,  argillaceous,  were 
-ther^in  o  one'r  oft ^-^  V"'  """'  "^  ">« 
applying  the  slS  ;  '  trS'a'r  *'''^'"* 
gantic  masses  slowly  L^7„r      /J^"^''  ^^  g'" 

into  loose  earthXtfrZ  •'::''' ''"'''■^" 
valley.  P  '  *t  ""c  bottom  of  the 

ho«r2:„^:tx^^ 

"•»el  spent  there  rema  n^  r  J'^''"^''-  "^he  «hort 
hke  some  of  thSe Tn  "  ?!^  "P""  "^ '"'■"ory 
person   looks   back    ^T  ''"'''  *°  "^hich  eve,^ 

^ocks,  leaping  crevteslt  T\    ^'''""'^"■'g 
and  cascades  is  IZlLe     f  1  *'°"«'' """«'» 
rers  of  nature  can  duK,^  ^'^"""^  ■""  ''^"'^'^ 
,  'hilst  the  renew^  scen«  "^'T"^'  «nd  which. 
»nd  gratifying  I!^47,^\e've  P'^'^-'e  ever  fresh 

«;e  obserLfXr^  tter.t"?r- 
hatisfactory  inferences.    ,    —^'"S  truths  and 

The  contemplated  college  is  tl  L    ..  -. 

8  ' 


t 


♦  :* 


tt 


.11  1- 


%i 


i!Ht 


!  iS 


■I 


rit 


1 


*         Li  ' 


t| 


.  .  ^ 


■   •  i  i» 

ill 


; 


h 


r^ 


'  '  .Iff 


-IH- 


I 

I 


,1       •.« 


'^ 


^;;i! 


fl 


fHi: 


!l;t 


80 


P£D£STRIAM    TOL'U. 


and  four  stories  high ;  and  is  to  sland  up- 
on he  highest  knoll  of  the  hill  adjacent  to  the 
village:  separate  wings  upon  the  same  elera- 
lioii,  are  to  be  appropriated  as  academies. 
For  the  site  of  the  college,  no  spot  could  be 
chosen  more  eligible  than  this.  Inexhaustible 
stores  for  the  study  of  natural  history  will  al- 
ways be  at  hand,  and  for  all  other  sciences,  the 
scholar  will  be  secluded  in  a  romantic  retirement, 
which  will  give  additional  zest  to  his  researches 
in  their  various  branches.  From  the  windows  oi' 
the  institution,  the  wide  surface  of  lake  Cayuga 
will  be  extended  in  the  view  :  the  distant  moun- 
tains will  be  seen,  fading  into  an  indistinguishable 
mixture  of  clouds,  water  and  land.  '  " 

Some  large  literary  establishment  has  long 
been  wanting  in  the  western  part  of  our  State ;  and 
as  the  inhabitants  are  becoming  more  and  more 
numerous;  and  populous  towns  fast  rising;  the 
wealthy  land-owners  require  for  the  education 
of  their  children  a  more  convenient  institution 
than  either  that  of  Hamilton  or  Schenectady. 
Ithaca  will  be  the  place,  wherein  all  those 
minor  academies  and  institutions,  at  pre- 
sent spread  over  the  fertile  and  well  inhabited  I 
countries  beyond  thQ  first  of  the  parallel  lakes 
to.  Erie,  will  be  centred  into  one  greatj 
tlourishincr  temple  of  science.  '^ »  **• 

Ithaca  may  be  considered  in  two  parts :  thel 
main  portion  situated  on   the  plain,   consisting! 
of  handsome  houses,  a  bank,  a  masonic  hall, 
court    lK>use    and    tbiee    churches:    and    tt 


-  ih 


I  •  :■ 


•I 


r. .    >l 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


87 


up- 
o  1^ 
elcta- 
emies. 
aid  be 
ustiblc 
irill  al- 
;e»,  the 
rement, 
icarches 
dows  ot 
Cayuga 
t  moun- 
uishabk 


lesser  village,  at  the  mills  of  Fall  River,  where  a 
small  collection  of  dwelling  houses  has  buen 
formed  by  the  millers  and  their  families.  Both 
parts  have  a  gay  and  extensive  appearance  from 
the  circumjacent  heights.  The  inhabitants  arc 
rich,  enterprizing,  and  great  lovers  of  bustle  and 
commotion,  (a  striking  feature  throughout  all  the 
towns  of  the  newly  settled  countries.)  Drums 
were  beating  in  the  streets,  bugles  sounding,  and 
the  hotels  loud  with  public  meetings,  during  my 
stay  at  the  head  of  Lake  Cayuga. 


n 


••i). 


I  -  < 


,1 


r 
•   § 


♦       ■      .    1       r.    ' 


ii'v  P 


■'     <  i 


1' 


.   ,! 


i:.- 


irts:  the! 
:oQBistiDg| 

lie  ball, 
and    tt 


- 1      /  ,       1 


't 


«.^  ' 


0  •'-■'•j'  >  -   » 


\i  ■. 


'^ 


.'   .! 


I 


I 


Hi-   .' 


*\ 


i!i    i 


W 


■i        "• 

(  V 

1. 

1^ 

if    ■, 

,» 

' 

i' 

!  i 

;.  _ 

'.  1  •  '■ 

r,    : 

. 

r 

i 

1  ^  -'. 

r.- 

r 

• 

i '. 

if  • 

f  '^ 

{ 

>  f: 

/ 
'  1 

r  C     i 

■ 

t 

^f 

1 

^ 

' 

i   :'  1 

1 

i 
i 

1    llif* 

8S 


PKDESTRIAN    TOUR 


CHAPTER  IV. 

FR©M   ITUACA,    TO  THE  0ENE8SEE,  AND  STRAieilXS 

OF    NIAGARA. 


Tbunday,  September  13,  1821 


That  piece  of  land  belonging  to  Tompkins 
and  Seneca  counties,  and  included  between  the 
two  lakes  of  Seneca  and  Cayuga,  is  the  most 
beautiful  and  most  valuable  of  all  that  fertile 
country  west  of  the  Skeneateles,  of  which  it 
forms  nearly  the  central  portion.    Otisco,  Ske- 
neateles, Owasco,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  Crooked,  and 
Canandaigua  lakes,  all  flowing  from  south  to 
north,  and  some  of  them  either  communicating 
or  about  to  communicate  with  the  Great  Canal, 
irrigate  the  luxuriant  banks  of  lands  seldom  to  be 
found  more  productive,  and  cast  a  feature  over 
the  tract  through  which  they  are  so  thickly  inter- 
spersed, such  as  no  other  part  of  North  America 
can  present.    Gypsum  abounds  on  all  sides ;  salt 
gushes  in  strong  solution  from  never  failing  foun- 
tains :  fish  swarm  in  the  lakes  and  streanvs,  andj 
innumerable  flocks  of  game  occupy  the  woodsi 
the  whole  year  round.     But  the  favoured  space 
of  land  between  Cayuga  and  Seneca  lakes,  can 


lot 
(O 

Bro 

Modern 
as  to  o*€rl 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR.  gg 

<"e  banner  and         p^e^  '  f  "r  -"  """8 

I'U.e '.e  pleases,  and  .hentlr"'"  '°  '"•'^•'' 
Oswego  River  will         .       .  *'^"*''*  °""«'  and 

"section,.  pitch:;"'d  :„  rs  rv"  """•■ 

though  there  ar*»  nf  ^^^^  ''^"^»  J  and, 

■'Picuous  edifices  upTn  S  ^^''"'''"S  ''*  Per- 
"•e  name  of  the  to^^hil  ^u"'  "'  """^  ""d 
%«es.  reminded  mfo?  '"  "'"''  "  ''^'"'»'  ^-• 

fering  a  J^ZZtZ''^'''''^'''' 
P^los—    ,  JNeptune  on  the  shore  of 

i-^^o.er„  iCzriirtTr-  • 


Ih^.  - 


8 


* 


^«^*'f'  y  79. 


>   .; 


,> 


I  Hi 'I 


I  I 


li' 
1  I 


8,1  >>  >s 


SD 


pedestrijCn  tour. 


and  those  founded  upon  the  nearest  eminences, 
enjoy  a  commanding  prospect  of  the  waters  of 
Cayuga.  - 

A  mile  beyond  Ovid,  the  road  strikes  Seneca 
Lake,  which  is  thirty-three  and  a  half  miles  long, 
and  about  four  miles  wide.  Advancing  some- 
times upon  the  beach,  and  sometimes  upon  the 
precipitous  banks,  I  came  in  sight  of  Geneva, 
distinguishable  at  a  very  great  distance,  on  ac- 
count of  its  elevated  situation.  The  court-house 
and  churches,  stand  high  and  towering,  whilst 
the  stores  and  dwellings  stretch  down  the  decli- 
vity to  the  water.  Geneva  has  several  moral  and 
literary  institutions. 

Altering  my  course,  I  advanced  over  a  fine 
variegated  district  of  sixteen  miles,  to  Canan- 
daigua.  This  large  and  important  village,  stands 
near  the  outlet  of  Canandaigua  Lake,  and  ascends 
two  miles  in  length,  in  one  wide  street  to  the  top  of 
a  hill,  from  which  is  to  be  seen  its  adjoining  lake, 
like  part  of  a  broad  and  extremely  picturesque 
'river.  The  principal  buildings,  both  public  and 
private,  are  at  the  upper  end  of  the  street.  Law- 
yers, judges,  and  wealthy  merchants  have  their 
commodious  and  fashionable  houses  here,  distinct 
from  one  another,  surrounded  by  elegant  gardens, 
and  each  with  an  office  standing  separate  and 
advanced  nearer  to  the  pavf^ment.  A  personi 
will  scarcely  believe  himself  two  hundred  and 
twelve  miles  from  Albany,  when  he  walks  througli| 
this  newly  grown  town,. and  witnesses  the  ap- 
pearance  of    wealth    and    nobility    exhibitedl 


es 


Roch 

passes 

parts  c( 

continu 

whole 

^eet,  wh 

'ialf,an( 

cipice 

cataract 

mendoui 

Carthage 

Wionume 


1^ 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


91 


Seneca 
s  long, 

some- 
on  the 
ieneva, 

on  ac- 
t-house 
,  whilst 
le  decli- 
oral  and 


around  him,  in  the  princely  halls  of  the  inhahi« 
tants. 

I  left  Canandaigua,  and  proceeding  over  a 
country  rather  more  rugged  than  usual,  of  a 
loose  sandy  texture,  I  passed  through  Victor, 
a  mere  hamlet,  and  shortly  after  struck  upon 
the  Great  Canal  again,  near  Pittsford.  The 
works  are  here  upon  a  large  scale.  The  chan- 
nel of  the  canal  is  elevated  upon  a  high  earthen 
mound  which  the  labourers  were  busily  finishing; 
At  a  great  depth  beneath  the  mound,  the  river  Iron- 
dequoit  is  conveyed  through  along  and  very  large 
aqueduct  or  funnel,  of  most  excellent  workman- 
shi  p.  Inconcievable  quantities  of  earth  are  trans- 
ported from  a  distance,  in  raising  this  difficult 
portion  of  the  canal:  the  whole  section  to  the 
Tonnewanta  is  now  nearly  completed. 

THE    GENESSEE. 

The  bell  tolled  from  a  Gothic  spire,  as  I  enter- 
ed the  populous  and  fast  increasing  town  of 
Rochester-ville,  upon  the  Genessee.  That  river 
passes  through  the  to'vrn,  dividing  it  into  two 
parts  connected  by  two  lengthy  bridges ;  and 
continuing  a  little  farther,  suddenly  rolls  its 
whole  volume  down  a  precipice  of  ninety-six 
feet,  when  it  expands,  gently  flows  a  mile  and  a 
half,  and  again  dashes  headlong  down  another  pre- 
cipice of  seventy-six  feet.  Near  this  latter 
cataract,  perched  upon  the  edge  of  a  most  tre- 
mendous gulf,  stands  the  forsaken  village  of 
Carthage,  which,  like  Carthage  of  old,  remains  a 
monument  of  fallen  grandeur,  a  mournful  con- 


■  •  I 


t    I 


I 


i 


i 


^1 


K. 


>    * 


f 


92 


pedesthian  tour. 


trast  to  the  Tunis  of  the  Genessee,  that  already 
assumes  the  commerce  of  the  great  inland  sea  of 
Ontario. 

Substantial  stone  mills  and  manufactories  are 
seen  in  great  numbers,  arranged  upon  the  banks 
of  the  never-failing  stream.  Viewed  from  tlie 
hill,  Rochester  presents  a  gay  picture  of  some 
important  commercial  city  ;  its  stone,  brick  and 
wooden  houses,  the  Great  Canal  running  across 
thejiver  upon  a  strong  and  costly  aqueduct,  the 
spires,  the  meeting  houses,  the  hotels,  in  short 
all  we  behold,  causes  the  mind  to  recur  to  the 
iscenes  of  Babel,  erecting  an  establishment 
which  shall  defy  the  rage  of  time.  From  one 
spot,  I  counted  eighteen  houses  in  the  act  of 
building.  The  custom  is  to  have  the  gable  ends 
facing  the  streets;  and  here  we  find  the  singular 
mode  of  raising  the  peaks,  square,  like  the 
battlements  of  a  castle. 

Sunday, After   attending    service  in    the 

forenoon,  I  procured  a  man  to  show  me  the  way, 
down  a  rugged  and  slippery  path  to  the  foot  of 
the  Higher  Falls.  It  commenced  raining  exces- 
sively; yet  the  view  of  these  beautiful  falls,  was 
a  gratification,  which  richly  paid  for  the  in<  >n- 
venience  of  wet  apparel.  The  ledge  or  preci- 
pice extends  obliquely,  half  a  mile  across  the 
channel  of  the  river,  and  looses  itself  in  the  oppo- 
site perpendicular  banks.  Nearest  the  east  side, 
where  the  angle  is  acute,  falls  the  broadest  sheet 
of  water,  pitching  over  with  astonishing  velocity 


ft*  I  »^  ->.i  ',1 


-f:.'i\ 


J    'I 


'  1  J  • 


and  n 
ered  i 
the  to 
tatari 
Fro 
the  G< 
a  decl 

.?ulf,  ii 
river  d 
obtain! 
observ( 
ful  "fly 

ants  of 

ing  arc! 

The  bi 

Archim 

When  1 

pected 

bf  ston 

beams  o 

close  up 

rickety 

what  son 

dir  castle 

from  the 

been  airy 

gentlema 

that  a  sue 

lifted  the 

carrying  i 

in  the  hot 

rent  of  th( 


es  are 
banks 
(in  Uie 

some 
ck  and 
across 
ict,  the 
1  short 

to  the 
shment 
jm  one 

act  of 
)le  ends 
lingular 
ike  the 

in    the 
he  way, 
foot  o{ 
exces- 
|U8,  was 
in<  m- 
Ir  preci- 
oss  the 
le  oppo- 
LSt  side, 
it  sheet 
elocity 


PEDESTRIAN    TOVB. 


03 


and  noise.  The  exposed  bed  of  the  stream,  cov- 
ered with  shrubby  trees,  intercepts  its  course  on 
tne  top  of  the  ledge,  and  forms  another  smaller 
cataract  at  the  farther  extremity. 

From  this  place  1  went  along  the  west  bank  of 
the  Genessee  as  far  as  Carthage,  and  descending 
a  declivity  to  the  verge  of  the  broad  and  deep 
gulf,  in  the  bottom  of  which  could  be  seen  the 
river  dwindled  in  appearance  to  a  little  brook,  I 
obtained  a  partial  view  of  the  Lower  Fall,  and' 
observed  the  remaining  hutments  of  that  wonder- 
ful "flying  bridge," which  the  enterprising  inhabit- 
ants of  Carthage  long  since  threw  in  one  astonish- 
ing arch,  from  the  summit  of  one  bank  to  the  other. 
The  building  of  this  bridge  is  one  of  the  great 
Archimidean  undertakings  of  the  modern  age. 
When  told  of  these  remaining  butments,  I  ex- 
pected to  find  them  substantially  constructed 
t)f  stone,  properly  fitted  to  receive  Ibe  bulky 
beams  of  the  arch ;  instead  of  which,  there  stood 
close  upon  the  crumbling  brink,  on  either  side,  a 
rickety  frame-work,  more  like  the  skeleton  of 
what  some  people  call  a  yankee  meeting-house  or 
air  castle,  than  the  support  of  a  bridge.  Judging 
from  the  butments,  the  undertaking  must  have 
been  airy  indeed  :  and  in  confirmation  of  this,  a 
gentleman  informed  me,  (creditably  perhaps,) 
that  a  sudden  gust  of  wind  on  a  blustering  day, 
lifted  the  bridge  from  its  two  extremes,  and 
carrying  it  through  the  air,  laid  it  upside  down, 
in  the  bottom  of  the  gulf,  where  the  spring  cur- 
rent of  the  Genessee  soon  bore  it  in  triumph  into 


..  ■  ;       ,-.:' 


\  ■«.  i  ■ 


'  t 


h 


•»,   !    :. 


s  * 


I 


i 


^ir 


<. 


i  ; 


f1. 
I- 

h 


U 


ill?  » 

•i' 

«  ; 


1,^' 


it; 


y4 


PEDESTUIAN    TOUR. 


lake  Ontario!  The  toll-gate,  closed,  and  the  toll- 
keeper's  house  are  still  standing,  and  looks  as  it 
lately  built ;  which  might  prove  that  the  bridge 
did  not  fall  through  age.  From  the  surface  of 
the  river  to  the  arch,  was  one  hundred  and  ninety- 
eight  feet.  During  its  erection,  an  overseer  fell 
from  the  top  and  dashed  himst-lf  to  pieces. 

Down  a  gulley  which  rains  have  worn  in  the 
bank,  a  patl»  winus  to  the  boUom,  where  a  line 
view  is  to  !)e  had  of  the  Lower  Fall.  The  water 
with  a  loud  roar  and  considerable  spray,  rolls 
down  a  broken  and  contracted  part  of  a  ledge,  si- 
milar in  some  degree  to  that  of  the  upper  fails, 
with  the  exception  of  its  bcin^  much  more  une- 
ven. High  over  our  heads  the  stupendous  sides 
of  the  chasm  rise  to  a  terrifying  elevation,  and 
the  distant  butments  rear  their  outstretched  arms 
to  the  skies,  tottering  aloft  upon  the  wind-shaken 
brows  of  each  precipice.  Alternate  layeTs  of 
earth  and  bright  blue  clay,  with  intermediate 
strata  of  slate,  curl  in  beautiful  parti-coloured 
stripes  around  the  banks,  rendered  more  striking 
by  a  pleasing  admixture  of  ragged  evergreens  and 
overhanging  bushes.  Adjoining  the  falls  a  spa- 
cious arched  grotto  is  deeply  scoo|ied,  under 
which  the  water  so  lately  turbulent,  finds  rest  in 
a  deep,  silent,  revolving  pool,  ; :       hf 

From  Carthage  on  the  Gennesee,  to  Lewistoii 
on  the  Straights  of  Niagara,  a  distance  of  nearly 
eighty  miles,  that  wonderful  curiosity  the  Great  | 
Ridge  road  is  traced,  running  in  a  straight  line 


11 1^ 


1^^  'I 


2  toU- 

\  as  it 
ariiigfc 
=ice  of 
linety- 
ier  fell 

in  the 
3  a  tine 
e  water 
ly,  rolls 
idge,  si- 
er  fails, 
ore  une- 
)U8  sides 
ion,  and 
led  arms 
[l-shaken 
[iiyeTS  of 
mediate 
;oloured 
striking 
|eens  and 
|ls  a  spa- 
,  under 
s  rest  in 


.ewistoii 
)f  nearly 
Ihe  Great  | 
ight  line' 


!( 


■•;  h    ' 


a 


»-    <\ 


•'   r 


I  Iff 


fi 


li 


.!  *' 


n  it. 


•!   « 


i 


1 1  IS 


ii; 


i? 


!»^' 


ir  m 


.■| 


H 


H^»l 


ueaj 
isar 
feet 
/brdj 
road, 
to  a 
enlig 
some 
>obe 
nriJl  L 
tion  !£ 
gravel 
a  kirn 
swamf 
course, 
ibout  1 
hy  cree 
<o  natu 
extend 
to  the  i 
^^bich  ii 
Cataraqi 
Met  thro 
Make  unt 
hand  in  t 
I  in  time  c 
Jopiniotiii 
I  case,  exp 
I  the  lake, 
contrary, 

Advan( 
hpidly  t 


«OEST«lAK    TOCR. 

nearly  parallel  to  the  «h«,<.    rt   ,  ^ 

'f  an  earthen  mouni   ,  Jat/^i^''^,  0»*«"o-    It 
eet  abore  the  usual  levd  of  i  "'  *"  "^^-'^ 

fording  upon  the  ton  ''"""""y-  «d  af- 

-ad.    At'^rst  i  ^;  L""""'  '"'^*"^'"  »»'"'a. 
'«  a  gigantic  raSrt  th,c "  '^'"*  '"^'"''lance 
-lightened  inha"Ss^r:i"f  ''^  '^  fo™er 
'ome  have  actually  gone  so  Tar    "Z  """  ''^''^' 
•0  be  the  P«forn>ancro;„"/'7„  " -PPo«e  '' 
""II  be  imraediately  exnl^!^"    f     ""'  °P'"i<>n 
"0"  -  taken  intocons  dmt  0^''':''!' ^"-"P"- 
Sravel  intermixed  with  .!  '  *'"''•  ''*  a  fine 

^  kind  aitoge^hl  ir„rr'r'"''^'^'>' 

»an,ps  and  marshes  1        ,"""  "^'  «^    the 

^bout  twenty  yards  ^il  T  f'?^'  *'«»  '  ''  i» 

"y  creeks  and  rivulets    t'aro"  ""'"^"^ 
'«  naturalists,  he"e  covet"'  ,«»'«""•  "'^^"''''''g 
«tend  generally  tweJvIll     I  P'""*  """  "o^ 
'«  fe  foot  of  Lthtghe;!''''''  °[  '"^  ''^-«' 
,;'»ch  is  called  the  Lewto/i""''  *''"*'<'P«  <"• 
CataraquiorStLawrenll        «.»"n'am;  and  the 
;«  through  the  Ssand'lS^r'"^^^""'- 
»ke  until  it  was  bounded  fori      '    '"'""^    '^^ 
'"nd  in  the  course  ofZ  S  '  "T '''"'^' "-^  "'« 
hn  t,me  cast  up  this  va-t  Lh    f*  "^^'^  ''"  "a'^" 
kinion  is  objictioLS    fo^f  T"'-    ^^"'  ""'^ 
hase.  expect  to  find  arou'nll      l""'** '"  «"«<>  » 


■  mm 


;^ii: 


'I-  it' 


n 


•ti 


.  U    r  i 

1^'     'i> 


/  ^i^ 


4,;  V 


!?^ 


d(j 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


Ridgeway,  the  first  day ;  and  in  company  with  a 
young  gentleman  from  Batavia,  who  was  making 
a  pedestrian  excursion  to  his  relations  in  Canada, 
(  reached,  on  the  second,  a  tavern  two  miles  from 
Lewiston.  I  observed  the  woods  along  the 
Ridge  road,  to  be  of  a  diiTerent  character  from 
those  forests  of  cedar  and  tamarack,  which  here 
and  there  shaded  my  way  before;  now  mostly 
tall  and  beautiful  oak  trees  occupied  the  road 
and  neighbouring  grounds.  After  Ridgeway 
on  Oak  Orchard  creek,  there  is  one  continu- 
ed forest  of  thirty  miles,  with  only  a  few  solitary 
log-houses  planted  upon  some  leased  acres  of 
ground,  the  miserable  appearance  of  which,  in- 
stead of  diminishing,  rather  adds  to  the  disagree- 
able looks  of  the  low  swamps  and  marshes,  where 
the  Great  Ridge  sometimes  penetrates.  The  Hol- 
land Company's  purchase  embraces  all  this 
tract,  and  contains  further  southward,  a  number 
of  populous  villages.  Hand-bills  were  circula- 1  curtsiec 
ting  at  this  time,  signed  by  Paul  Busti,  Esq.  agent  I  bie,  and 
for  the  Holland  Company,  in  which  lands  were  I  adjoin  in 
offered  for  sale  or  upon  lease,  upon  terms  ex-lthedirec 
tremely  advantageous  to  new  settlers.  I^ociety. 

The  Great  northern  Slope,  or  Lewistonllo  the  ba 
Mountain,  rises  not  above  two  furlongs  distantUndian  in 
from  the  inn  where  I  stopped;  f nl  upon  the  top,llers.  pjj 
lies  the  village  of  the  Tuscarora  Indians,  w tenants  w< 
form  one  of  the  six  confederated  tribes,  denomi'lcconjpan 
nated  the  Iroquese  or  Iroquois  nation.  Thef he  siJver 
tribes  are,  the  Mohawks,  now  a  scattered  rem^lut  coveri 
nant  in  Canada,  the  Cayugas,  who  also  emigratedlccording  t 


to 

Ser 

Jate 

Six 

F 

cenc 

theii 

ripe 

tered 

same 

^'omc 

comp 

Amer 
to  a 
a  moti 
niascul 
would 

steppec 
i'ed  for 


iny  with  a 
as  making 
in  Canada, 
niles  from 
along  the 
icter  from 
vbich  here 
3W  mostly 
i  the  road 

Ridgeway 
;  continu- 
5w  solitary 
d  acres  of 
ivhich,  in- 
3  disagree- 
ihes,  where 

The  Hol- 
s   all  this 

a  number 
re  circula 


'^^ESTRIAK   T017H. 


07 


*o  Canada,  thp   On^- 1 

Senecas.  .nith^r'u^  *"  ''"°"''''«'"'  ""^ 
""e'r  been  admitted  t"''''  '  ''"'*  °"'^ 
Si*  Aations.  '"  *•"« confederacy  of  the 

-"'"=<'  »  -InJV'Ce'r/'"^  '-.,ord,  ras- 
'"eir  own  plantat^s  o  exct  "T "«  ''■^""S'' 
"Pe  corn,   and  at  Jen.Lh  '^""'  "■««»  «"<« 

'ered  house,,  built  oM„    """^  '°  '"^^""  ««''»- 
^ame  manner  as  those  of  if!  T     '°°'"^  '»  "><= 
"•omen,  ,vhom  I  beS  at  r    /  ^  ''"''"•    '^'^o 
•complexion    to  be    twf   I    ''' '^'°"' "-^'^ ''gh' 
American  farmers    ,1      ^  '^°'"  ''""ffhtera    pf 
'»  =>  '-ge   Z^orZ^^T'^^S  -«•  pails 
» motion  to  approach  th  P°"  "'^  "naking 

masculine  air  a^d'^ ';,"'•  "'^  '«"^«t.  '^hose 
7"W  have  done  honourtl  "r'"''''  '''"''^^ 
Stepped  forward  and  me  '!  "  f;"'  ^««  Pugilist, 
^'^'i  for  the  missio„rrv  t    m  ""'•    ^  '■"}"■- 

-" ■"'"''^'•'^a'dsomeS^u     '"'""^et-clad  lady 

Esq.  agent  I  We,  and  pointedto  a  hf  f""^^"'^'  unintelli/ 
:a„as  wereladjoini„/a church  ^'Ct'"""  '^'"'"^ "»-  . 
terms  ex-l  he  direction  of  tkeVuLT   '""""'S  "»''«; 
-     .       ISocety.    Atfhismomenr     *"■*'«"  ^^'^'ionary 
Lew.stonio  (he  back  of  her  co^n         '"''"'^''^^d  attached     ' 
,gs  distantlndian  i,.fo„t,  pend.wTv  7"'  "  P*"^"^  «m  £ 
,n  the  top.le«.    p^,,;     ^  "'j^^'^/'^^P^  ^om  her  shou  f 
l.ans.  »-.olenants  were  still  asleep  r  °\  '°«   ''"'«'  '-hose 
B.  denomiJccompanied  by  a  !•!..*'*"  ^n^^'^nt  squaw 
ion     ThlhesilverlocJof \belf  °"V^'^'''  ^-rs'olT 
teredremlut  coverin,.  or  ornamlt""  t""^  ^°-n -ith- 


i  1/ 


<  t 


i)  : 


I* 


Jl 


^  . 


x^ 


ii8 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUK. 


in  one  hand.  Bidding  her  good  morning,  she 
laughed  and  shook  her  head,  signifying  that  she 
did  not  understand  ;  and  the  little  squaw  drew 
closer  ahout  her,  the  remnant  of  a  blanket,  the 
tatters  of  which  served  for  a  fringe.       , .  »•  n '  . 

A  Tu&carora  Indian,  who  had  lately  received 
his  education  in  New- York,  conducted  me  round 
tlie  village,  and  politely  introduced  me  to  their 
venerable  chief  Sacaresa,  to  the  Interpreter,  and 
to  one  David  Cusick,  celebrated  for  his  ingenuity 
in  the  art  of  painting.  This  David  Cusick  hr 
in  his  possession,  a  variety  of  relics  of  their  fc. 
nier  implements  anH  arms,  such  as  stone  axes, 
flint  arrows,  war-clubs,  belts  of  wampum,  and 
some  curious  ornaments ;  and  his  drawings, 
though  the  materials  were  coarse,  exhibited  in  a 
striking  and  clear  manner,  the  council  meetings, 
the  rites  of  worship,  and  the  modes  of  dancing 
practised  by  their  forefathers.       ui    «. 

I  was  informed  that  the  Tuscaroras,  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  years  ago,  inhabited  a  large  district 
in  North  Carolina,  at  which  time  they  could 
boast  of  six  thousand  strong  iighting-men :  that, 
in  a  war  with  a  neighbouring  tribe,  one  thousand 
of  their  choicest  warriors  were  destroyed :  and 
that  they  emigrated  twice  to  the  state  of  New-] 
York ;  and  the  last  time,  about  fifty-one  years  ago,| 
after  distinguishing  themselves  in  many  blood; 
battles  against  the  encroaching  Europeans,  wen 
adopted  in  the  Iroquois  confederacy.  They  poi 
sess  6133  acres  of  land ;  of  which  it  appears^  641 
were  a  grant  from  the   Seneca  tribe,  1280 


Sel( 
young 
consid 

-Asi 

now  he 
out  of 
in   wa^ 

^Jeprive 
distingi 

was  ami 
gorgeou 
bons  an. 
"Pon  thi 

f-ewisi 
''"medja 


^^OESTRlj^s    TOUR.  ^^^ 

'abour.  n,o.tdi,igeni;;'e;  t,  7'  T  """ 
portion  of  the  gains      Thl  "  greater  pro- 

-%in:„T:rXirL"^^'''-^ 

;  number  of  Indians  for^d  „  '  r^r'T'  '^ 
oowmenced  with  these  lines  wl^hh  ?'^ 

'or  me  upon  a  piece  of  pa^k  """"'"'' 

*>ni  •  qoa  •  I.  quaj-,b 
Sa  w.  ,  „,  ,„  ,^ijlj  l^^„ 

SeM6m  was  1  better  pleased  win.    •    • 
young  8quaws  with  thefr -Ser      ""^y  '^^ 
considerably  to  the  harlny!     '       '*''    "'^'^^^ 

As  the  grand  council  of  th«  c-    »r 
»ow  holding  at  flufta'oe  L     ,    "  ^'"'**°«'  ""^^ 
out  of  the  Ullage  rm?'nnT'''"'  '^"^'^  ^^^^'^S 
•»  wagons,    fo^'thrpir^c'-f '"''-«'' 
•leprivedthemofmuchoffh!;     Civilization  has 
di'.tinguisl.es  the  wild  hu^ttT' '"'"'• '^'"oh 
-"s  amusing  to  see  he»  TrrLn  "'  ''"'''*•    ^' 
gorgeous  dresses   allX      ^      '"  "'*''•  "'ost 

"^n-  and  me^c  orni    "^  "'"  '^'"•'«".  "b- 
'•7«thi.i„,p„«;-— .  profuse,,  added 

I  "»e  Great  northern  SJope. 


"r-i 


]00 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


ni' 


I  » 


i  '1.. 

!   k 

1            "• 

■           ■ 

» |i*  1 

■■1- 
i 

■t 

i.        '• 

'1 

■*■ 

r  ■■■■]> 

It  is  a  large  scattered  place,  raised  entirely  upou 
the  ashes  of  the  old  village,  which  was  destroyed 
with  many  circumstances  of  cruelty,  in  the  late 
contest  with  Great  Britain.  Without  making 
any  stay  here,  I  ascended  the  mountain,  broke 
through  the  bushes,  and  saw — not  indeed  the 
grand  Falls  of  Niagara,  whose  distant  roar  was 
drowned  in  the  noise  of  the  rapids  under 
my  feet ;  hut  a  vast  inland  ocean  spreading 
in  the  prospect  without  any  perceptible  bounds; 
the  confines  of  a  new  country,  with  ite  villages 
and  farm-houses,  separated  only  by  anarrowchasm 
over  which  one  might  suppose  he  could  casta 
stone;  and,  scattered  upon  both  the  rival  fron- 
tiers, frowning  fortifications,and  the  fields  of  some 
of  the  moat  bloody  battles  ever  recorded  in  the 
annals  of  history.  I  looked  around  the*  grassy 
brow  of  the  precipice  upon  which  I  was  sittiiig, 
with  my  feet  literally  hanging  in  the  air,  in 
order,  if  possible,  to  discover  some  remaining 
evidences  of  the  fiery  contest  between  this  and 
the  opposite  height  of  Queenston,  where  Colonel 
Scott  so  well  directed  his  artillery  from  this 
commanding  eminence  in  1812.  No  vestige  re- 
mained ;  tVie  bullets  were  rolled  away,  and  thefal- 
len  heros  were  mouldering  beneath  the  sod. 

A  correct  idea  of  the  lands  around  this  con- 
tracted pass,  the  celebrated  Straights  of  Niagara, 
which  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  say,  conveys  the 
waters  of  Lake  Erie  into  Lake  Ontario,  is  readily 
acquired  from  the  summit,  of  Lewiston  Moun- 


plains. 

have  re 
pendict 
sitiori  ol 
ciiiefly  ( 

formed  j 

pact  stra 

at  the  bo 

^^oods,  li 

JVotwi 

pout  this 

rant-'e,   si. 

'aiis  of  A 

L'iose  upon 

phich  the 


sly  upou 
estroyecJ 
I  the  late 

making 
1,  broke, 
deed  the 
roar  was 
Is  under 
prea<ling 
bounds ; 

villages 
)w  chasm 
d  cast  a 
val  fron- 
s  of  some 
;d  in  the 
le  grassy 
I  sittiiig, 
;  air,  in 
3maining 
this  and 
;  Colonel 
rom  this 
estige  re- 
id  thefal- 
sod. 

this  con- 
Niagara, 
nveys  the 
is  readily 
n  Moun- 


^^'"-     Behind  us    it  arm 

the  north,  where  in  »  r  ^  "*''•  "wi" 

»'•""  three  humlLleL:!""".'"'  ""  """'  "'"''"'^ 

"""'.  as  for  a,  the  eye  "an  1  °'  "'°'"'- 

'■-ndin,,  region,  of'the  W^,':^  "^  '"«  »"- 

Naturalists  univer»Mi„.  • 

waters  of  Lake  FrLo  -"t^'^'^ee,  "'at  the 

of  this  Great .  orth  r„S  1?    ''  ''"  °'''  '"eface 
'e»gth  of  time.  £2^''  "°"'"«'«andmg the 

--tant  attritlontl Twor"'"^'  '"'  ''«- 
Jeep  fissure,  thr^uri,  tZ    ,T  ^''^"  '""««  of  a 

have  retreated,  altav.','     '"  "'"^h  the  falls 

""on  of  the  high;st  iav J^,:'  '","""  '"'^'1  ^o-npo- 
?'"e%  of  limefto,  e  Z  ,"^u'  "'"'=''  ™"-  «« 
formed  a  projectin"  ^S     .if  '"'  ^•°""'»«"'r 

pact  strata  of'siatebewV'..'  ""  ''^'  ^'"'n- 
«  the  bottom    are  „n         •    '^'^  '^^«^"o»e  quite 

'-''M.,  the;:i:  :::*-^^_,;.  t-^e  dasi^ 

Not  wishing  to  lose  thl    •  u    "'"'"PPo«ed. 
f  "ott  this  moft  m te".    r ^f  °1 "  -»^'e  object 
Pnce.   slowly,    yet    ,„  ^  ^     '  '  '"^'^e  n.y  ad- 

N'^  of  NiagL.7hro  X::?'    '--''»   'he 
Fose  upon  the  tremhr^  "^''^^  »"fi  wood« 

hh  they  hr:.t:^J^'^,;''edeepchat' 
I  ^  /''•     Ihe  width  from 


^H '       h   <^  ^ 

^H           £  j 

1        ^1 

H ' '    1^ 

^H    '  '     % 

^^H 

H  '         II |<    . '  ^ 

1  '  "     -t^'    '  ■'  '■'' 

1      fL  '* '' 

^H  '            ^''       ' 

^B 

1  -  A  '■' 

■ 

I     i'  h' 

1     'j*-' 

^1 

■  '      f     IJ; 

H  J        11 V 

I       '    'it-    <it:   . 

1             hil'.'' 

H            ^  ? . 

1    '  'j^'    F 
I      if'' 

1       '  11 

1          '1      i^ 

|j    *t  i 

1        L 

111 

r|  i'.^v.  , 

1              '  '      f'  '     'v* 

•» 

•  ^J  . 

'    I      ■''  ■ 

«♦,!     ^- 

!  m^ 

I.                                  .3 

'■.1      :      ■•' 

:     i'     :.      . 

r  •" 

:    U:  1.     ■ 

ii* 

r  *         '';i 

t  J     '  '',■' 

.    1  1        :■■' 

^  *L, 

1      t     iJ 

I          ■:    -■    * 

■^        J 

|.       :, 

lO-i 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUil. 


side  to  side  is  not  above  a  quarter  of  a  mile ;  tlic 
channel  is  exceedingly  crooked,  and  the  banks 
rise,  at  first,  more  than  three  hundred  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  tumultuous  current,  boiling, 
roaring,  and  struggling  to  escape  from  its  nar- 
row limits.    The  water,  far  from  rolling  black 
and  heavily  in  turbid  commotion,  is  of  the  most 
lively  green  I  ever  beheld  ;   and  it  guthes  for- 
ward in  a  manner  so  pleasing,  that  hours  might 
be  spent  in  looking  down  at  its  curling  eddies, 
and   white-topped    billows,   without    the    least 
fatigue.     In  some  parts,  the  rocky  precipices 
lean  over  the  sides,  and  rains  washing  the  soil 
out  of  their  perpendicular  holes  and  crevices, 
enable  us  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  bushes  and 
trees  of  the  bank,  directly  under  our  ket 
,   Thus  breaking  through   the  underbrush  and 
brambles  for^ve  miles,  a  dull  monotonous  roar 
began  to  be  distinguishable  above  the  noise  of  the 
rapids:  the  bushes  were  thick  in  the  direction  of 
the  falls :  one  effort  more,  brought  me  to  a  salient 
point,  and  the  Grand  Cataract  of  Niagara,  burst 
at  once,  with  all  its  clouds  of  spray  and  high 
lossed  waters,  upon  my  enraptured  gaze, — the 
Nvonder  and  admiration  of  the  whole  world, — 
the  delight  of  the  curious, — and  the  boast  of 
North  America  ;  and  that  moment  was  to  me,  tif 
moment  of  exultation,  which  those  only  can 
conceive,  who  have-travelled  five  hundred  mile"»| 
to  behold  so  magnificent  a  waterfall. 


u 


nr-n 


iiy\ 


quK 

hav< 

the, 

natu 

spok 

scen< 

wond 

objec 

shape 

the  in 

upon 

tect  e 

errors 

It  o 

receive 

throug 

objects 

their 

other  p 

either  fj 

«^nd  wh< 

sure  ex 

pointme 

*«iVear 

'"hich  rung 

"^^  high,  a. 

'»'a"d  that  U 

■^"  the  beast 


r 


u 


PEDESTHIAN    TOUR. 
FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


103 


-«^u.,    ue^    NIAGARA 

reports  from  ourearl  ^  k^..'*'  astonishing 
fies  our  own  si^he  '"  at  H  ""*'  ="  "•"'  S'^«- 
q-iclcly  in  ourSsrSrr'h"  "^°'^'' 
ha^e  imprinted  there    and  .?'  '"  '''='-°"'«« 

the  actual  picture  b^orrl  T,T  *T""''* 
natural  curiosity  which  \uri  ^^  e*"^"' 

«Pokeofin  terms  sroty'r  fr""  "  P^"^"" 
«eene  which  thev  said  ,;,L  "",**« "■«'»e„dous 

-derand  aml^rf;;  ^t'^^-ith 
object,  which  exceeds  fancy  h^^eifin  ^T'""' 
shape,  noise  and  horrid  conf„r  .  '''"^'*  "f 
the  -'errogatorie,.w"  a  :"^;J°" '-?---"«  of 

«Pon  such  an  occasion-  I!  J^  I  '^'^  """elves 
'ect  even  in  P^ervoluts'thtr  *''"'  "^^- 
errors  and  exaggerations!       '       '"°''  '^''^'""^ 

^^^^o,':r;rr'Lr«''"-'heidea 

'h-gh  our  ron^dnTV  ftsir^  "''"'^' 
objects  in  vivid  or  terrifviL  T  ^  "nagmed 
*eir  misropresenta  to"!^  I,"^"'  "''''''  'o 
other  parts,  as  attra  tiv'e  o    "bf'"  "u  """"^ 

^■t  er  faintly  co„ceived7or  no  a?ir'  I  "''  "'"^ 
"nd  when  these  are  seen    the  ,    ""  ""'^'''''^  - 

»"re  excited,    counterl^  ^Klf'^^"""  P'^- 
Po.ntmentwemayhave'^IerS'     ""  '''^P" 

,7'  'is*.  a.«I  half  a  ieag^'b^  't?'^  .''  """'  "e"'  '-"<'«d 


I 


II 

% 


104 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


ft       ' 


if 


;1, 


1 


1.   '  (■■      • 


lils 


n 


For  my  own  part,  I  must  acknowledge  the 
MOtioti  I  receive  of  things  from  verbal  descrip- 
tions, commonly  over^reaches   the  truth.     Yet 

Nature  has  so  many  charms  in  her  every  form, 
that  the  too  flowery  epithets  used  in  delineating 

them,  produces  little  regret.  When  springing 
through  the  bushes  I  saw,  opened  at  once,  a  full 
and  distant  view'  of  Niagara  Falls,  a  flash  of 
unaccountable  disbelief  passed  over  my  mind, 
that  these  could  not  be  the  Great  Falls,  so  won- 
derful, so  tremendous.  The  fact  is,  the  grand  spec- 
tacle from  this  position  exhibits  all  its  beauties, 
without  any  of  its  terrors.  The  river  is  observed 
pouring  smooth  and  rounding,  over  a  ledge  or 
precipice,  in  two  sheets,  separated  on  the  top  by  a 
small  tree-covered  island.  The  portion  on 
the  left  of  the  island  upon  the  American 
side,  termed  from  a  fortification  in  the  vicinity, 
the  fall  of  fort  Schlosher,  runs  in  a  strait  line  with 
this  hank  of  the  chasm,  and  is  in  consequence 
little  seen.  But  the  larger  portion,  commonly 
called  the  Horse-shoe  fall,  runs  circuitously  from 
the  Canadian  shore  to  the  island,  appearing  in 
open  view,  with  the  main  body  of  the  water, 
pouring  green,  white  and  foaming,  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  to  the  bottom.  The  American  fall,  is 
one  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet:  the  sheet  of  wa- 
ter, however,  is  thin,  and  the  spray  which  is  form- 

pice are  sucked  down  by  the  stream  and  killed  by  the  Fall:  so  that 
ihy  Iroquesc,  who  are  planted  near  it,  daily  wait  for  tbem  in  their 
canoes.  Under  this  cataract,  three  men  may  pass  abreast  without 
being  much  wet,  i^ecause  the  current  falls  like  a  spout  over  their 
beads."— OW  Geography. 


.0./'    '. 


•1) «,'' 


*  > 


^•EDESTRIAN    TOUR.  j^. 

'3.1  scarcely    rises   to  the  top.     The  Hnr«.   u  "^ 
fa  I  creatps  •»  ^o^*.    ^  k-     i  ne  Horse-shoe 

air,    illtsTemtt;    "T' ' """""""^ '"^^ '"'° the 
Fantastic  Toe     "'"t  ""'*"  blonds  above. 

;i'  "ead  strikes  the  S  ?:d  "STo" ''? ' 
from  the  body     Now  fho     •  ^  separates 

and  become  the  bouTh'Z'X""'"^^'''^"* 
-nd  and  be„di„,  f^^  tZTeLTTj,  ''' 
'he  mist  rolls  in  thick  foM.  (        t'    ^"''denly 

<he  smoke  of  a  house  ,°fl  '""'""'•  '"^« 

^'^her  and  highe'^ri^^rtSrorr?""^^ 

kad  .ised  ririitir  "^''^'"^'*'- 

ascend  and  afford  ne  "e.    .1^      '  ""^  ^°'"'»«» 
Having  amused  myse  f Ton'""'"'  *°  '"^  '"""'^y- 

%"res  in  the  spray^dl  t^J^ £  t  '""^'"^ 
-^hute,  rendered  by  the  mid  2  ^        "reaming 

p-^ling  brightness.  I  aaTted'a^r  ^s '""'"' 
and  found  myself  all  nf        !         "«  ""^  ''"'"''. 

^■■ove  of  trees!  S'thl  'r"'' '"• '"  »  P'^^""' 

haves  of  the  rverwhil/."''"''"^  ''3'  *e 

K.mmediaterab:trSs''%l^°'''"« 
f  stowshmg  scene :  billows  rebo.^n^      I    '  "  "» 

hncealed  rocks,  dash  Tloft  td  l'"f  - """ 
pctof  the  opposite  «h«r         ■        ^""^  *«  Pros- 

f-ksandtreT^^strr;:''''"''^''''''^'"^"^ 
'    -^  *"*"*'«*»"«>»&  them,  feebly 


V: 


106 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


*r 


*-'  *  f '■      '  '^ 

\i  1  (('  ;  It.:' 

J'  : 


«  2  » 


\'''' 

*  ^ 

t 


It;  I' 


endeavouring  to  stop  the  irresistable  violence  ot 
the  rapid. 

The  straight  or  river  of  Niagara,  after  re-uniting 
at  the-extrennity  of  Grand-'Isle,  continues  three 
miles  in  a  westerly  course,  and  then  suddenly 
bends  north-east.  Before  it  reaches  the  bend, 
the  stream  contracts  from  a  mile  and  a  half  in 
width,  to  about  three  quarters,  and  dashing  furi- 
ously, like  a  turbulent  sea,  for  half  a  mile  over 
a  gradual  though  rocky  descent,  leaps  into  the 
gulf  at  the  very  point  of  the  angle.  From  a 
collection  of  mills  and  factories  arranged  along 
the  American  side  of  the  rapids,  denominated 
Grand  Niagara  or  Manchester,  spreads  in  view 
tile  expansive  bay,  bounded  by  champaigne  lands. 
Chippewa  appears  at  a  distance,  scattered  about 
the  mouth  of  Chippewa  river :  Navy  island  and 
the  woody  shores  of  the  Grand  isle,  lie  at  a  great  I  ^^m  of 
distance  on  the  left,  and  opposite,  upon  a  highltlurabjj 
bushy  bank,  Ontario  Hotel  rear*  its  white  colol^i*om  t[ 
nades.  Midway,  firm  among  the  roaring  brea-pre  mac 
kers,  is  Goat  or  Iris-Island,  to  the  romanticr^rasup 
walks  of  which,  a  bridge,  lately  rebuilt  by  Judgel^'ie  Cha 
Porter,  after  passing  over  an  intermediate  islandP^eps,  y^.^ 
leads  from  the  American  shore.  It  was  nof  ^  draws 
without  terror  that  I  saw  the  violent  surges  beatpatience 
ing  against  the  slender  props  of  this  bridge,  anil  perceiv< 
within  a  stone*s  throw  of  the  river  leaping  into  thfentJemai 
yawning  gulf  and  involving  the  objects  beneath  ifcanfuJJy 
dense  vapours.  The  small  island  across  whiJearing  oi 
the  bridge  passes,  is  called  Bath-Island,  and  hit  iength  \ 
upon  it  the  toll-keeper**  dwelling  and  a  cor^mfcived  the 


di< 

Tei 

8tr( 

froi 

the 

turn 

The 

step 

ofiaj 

ofna 

cs,  ar 

conte 

iittle  1 

pandii 

quadri 

the  ru8 

Fori 


d'ous  bathing  house.    Parses  in 

refreshmg  themselves  at  th.     ,    """"""■'  "fter 

;tro]U«oogthe  retiX*:;»^/««diate  island, 

fro™  a  precipice  of  two  h    t."  """"''•  "^here 

y^Wing  on  the  nghtS  l:^!^' ''°'"  «''-^" 
There  IS  a  beautiful  seel.,.;         f'^'  '*  "Stained. 
:'7  '•"  '-CI  b,  paths.  al'°l  ^""^  "-  foot.- 
«f 'arge  forest  trees,  ^ne  ^f  L      ^'""""^  "-"nks 
of  nature  shows.at  tn.es.  Jh  !  t"^'"'  ""^cts 
«^.  and  with  its  solemn  rol      "'~"«'' "•«>  bush. 
':0;;templatio„  and  awe  'T:."»P«'»  "'e  mind  to 
''Wj  islands,  with  tleir  tl^'^J-'"'' 'Mother 
U  in  view  I  panding  over  banks  uZ     T  '""'"«*'  ««  ex- 
.igne  lands.  I  quadruped  has  ever  CeTd  "?.'"'  '^'''''^">an  or 
ered  about  I  *e  rustic  elegance  of  natu  e     "  ""''■  '"'^  Reform 
island  and  I     f^°' the  convenience  ofT 
eat  a  greatl  om  of  the  falk.  permarent?.*'^"'^'"^ '°  *«  bot- 
pon  a  highl durably  fixed  ail^tt    /''"'''>'''  ''^'e  been 
.hite  coKvlFrom  the  foot  oftb"  stit 'f '  "'"  '^^  P^ecipfce 
«ring  bre  a-are  made  of  rough  Zls   Z"  *^  ''"P^.  'tep 

e  romantiJforasupport.  leading  to  a  ferT/""^"  ''^ni'^ter 
,lt  by  Judgf  he  Charon  of  the  ftll  -^l"*'""  'he shore 
liate  islandfteps.  was  standing  at  TZ'rJ^r  '''"='"'<i^<i  the 
[t  was  nofe  draws  the  boat  out  of  the  °  tJ'"' '''"'  '^hioh 
surges  beatl>at.ence  the  approach  oflT  !  '  ""'*"'"?  "-ith 
bridge,  anl  perceived  him  push  „fh7"''""°"''  P^-^ngers 
,ing into  gentleman,  into  fhe  'rfen"     '*'  ""^ "  '""/and 

'''"'tr"^  against  the'st.^am's"wT\""''  '"^"^^ 
cross  wh  Jeanng  on  the  surface  1?.!       "'''  P^™  ''•"vn! 
.nd.  and  hi  length  he  landed  hi!  Tr       ""  "''""^ '  ""'i 
*  «  co*4'-d  the  hard  earned  prSf  bislS; -'^  "' 


ll<*'^"' 


-<    !\ 


I'    '   "  ■' 


?^ 


:    U     ■■     ■ 

■  U^ 

\\  •■."vr 

%  ■  f  i 


108 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


Various  kinds  of  trees  have  fixed  their  roots 
beneath  the  impending  ciift's,  at  a  distance  below 
the  falls.  Nearer  and  occasionally  receiving  the 
sprinklings  of  the  mist,  shrubs  and  flowering 
plants,  in  the  highest  perfection,  lift  their  bright 
luxuriant  heads  ahove  the  broken  stones.  Each 
crevice,  and  each  spot  of  earth,  on  this  fertile 
though  rugged  part  of  the  slope,  is  a  garden  of 
the  sweetest,  gayest  flowers  of  the  forest.  Under 
the  continually  showering  spray,  vast  rhomboidal 
rocks  which  earthquakes  have  shaken  from  the 
summit,  are  covered  with  long  bending  grass, 
and  the  watery  interstices  among  them  are  filled 
with  aquatic  weeds. 

Here  from  the  top  of  a  huge  block  of  lime- 
stone, I  viewed  with  dumb  amazement  the  falls 
overhead :  thundering  tumult  shakes  the  basis  of 
the  clift's ;  a  powerful  breeze  assaults  the  face, 
blowing  at  times  rolling  clouds  of  sj^ray.  White 
and  foaming,  the  cataract  is  just  perceived  pitch- 
ing over  and  breaking  apart  ere  it  is  half  way  to 
the  bottom  :  dazzling  mist  envelopes  the  sight, 
and  nothing  more  is  to  be  seen.  Turning  around, 
as  the  spray  showers  from  above,  the  thin  form 
of  the  rainbow,  like  some  etherial  spirit,  sweeps 
its  radiant  circles  through  the  air.  -^  ^  ->  « 
*  Although  the  current  below  the  falls  is  ex- 
tremely rapid,  a  passage  over  it,  on  accti'ni  of 
its  depth  and  smoothness,  can  be  effected  with- 
out any  danger.  Having  crossed  over,  I  ad- 
vanced immediately  to  the  part  where  we  can 


agaii 

show 

slabs 

are  s 

scent, 

spring 

ocre  ( 

ble  ga 

Ne.\ 

wind. 

univers 

scene. 

the  drei 

of  cann 

the  very 

behind  t 

where  ti 

dash  us 

ffightene 

I  ^he  rock. 


^leir  roots 
nee  below 
eiving  the 
flowering 
eir  bright 
es.  Each 
his  fertile 
garden  of 
t.  Under 
omboidal 
from  the 
ng  grass, 
are  filled 

of  lime- 
:  the  falls 
le  basis  of 
the  face, 
.  White 
ed  pitch- 
If  way  to 
he  sight, 
f  around, 
hin  form 
t,  sweeps 


penetrate  behind  the  falls  •  »i.-  .. 

•nan^- accounts  receivll./,         ^^'''  ^^""'"O-  to 
ordinary  kind.    "'^  "  *"  undertaking  of  no 

W"e  are  first  obIi<»«l  .„ 
from  the  foot  of  ital  ZT""  ''''^'  ^  ""e 
,^nea«.  the  impendi^?  k 'l^''"'  °»  «""»  «de, 

'he  sharp  angle,  of  rocks  int'  "^''^"^  "P°» 
o'hera,  dashing  th-ou.*  .k  T"  '"'"='^'  '"d  in 

^  oo.e  ouf  oft^etewL'S"^  '''-«». 
S'abs  of  slate  are  comiZ  »        ^^  P'^cipice. 

6"'ng  f«,«  aboTe.     ir  "^  ".'"""^  "^  «nd 
»««'  of  the  distance,  plobablv'       ■    "^"'"•<=«' 
aga,nst  the  stones.    S,  ^  '"•'"""^  o"'  feet 
shower.  f„,n,  abovj.  and   ."kin??'"'*   '"   *« 
^'abs  of  slate,  a  seri;us  blo»    ^'  ^^  *«  '"''"'ng 
"■■e  suddenly  assault^   C^  '"^  ''^H  -e 
■^ent.  issuing  from  thrVe  suL,  "'^'  '"^"'^^Wc 
springs,  which  give  all  the  I'^t"'"""^  °'  '"'™mg 

oc^  colour.  aL  li  I        «~""^  '^^'"an 
We  gas.  '"*"'  *«  ="'  '^'th  i„flan„„,. 

Next  we  are  assaulted  by  f„ri„ 
«"nd.    Every  things  looks   L       "'  «^"''«  »' 
universal  veil  of  rZ  aS  to  LT''  '''"■'''  ^" 
;cene.    The  minbows  still  J^*?^?  "' *<' 
the  dreadful  thunder  of  AeSl  t  J"''  "^'  ^^ 
of  cannon  between  conTenS"'  '^'  *^  """^ 
he  very  earth  beneath  our  feeT  '  *^«» 

hehind  the  falls,  over  the  ",  ptt  Z  "'  Z^''^^'"* 
-here  the  slightest    mis-s^HotM  °''"■°^'■'" 
^--.anddieundertrS:--;;- 


^ 


i.  '      -^ 


fk 


is?  I: 


no 


rEDCSTRIAN    TOUR. 


The  air  is  so  loaded  with  fine  particles  of  the 
fluid,  that  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  breathe.    In  a 
moment  our  clothes  are  drenched  through ;  and 
for  a  moment  only,  we  dare  turn  up  our  eyes  to 
the  white  obscure  sheet  in  front,  the  looks  of 
which,  the  roar,  the  danger,  is  enough  to  appal 
the  stoutest  heart. — What  a  situation  for  human 
beings  !  imprisoned  between  impenetrable  walls 
of  rock  and  descending  water ;  enveloped  by  a 
wild  chaos  of   mixed  air  and   water,  whirled 
about  in  horrible  confusion.      It  occupies  time 
in  describing  this,  but  the  impression  is  momen- 
tary, and  never  to  be  effaced.      Down  drop  the 
brimful  oceans,  crash  upon  crash  ;  loud  peal  the 
hollow  rattling  thunders.     Asa  thousand  crags 
rifted  at  once  by  lightning  from  the  top  of  a  lofty 
mountain,  dart  headlong,  crumbling,  to  the  dis- 
tant valley,  and  reiterating  with  deafening  loud- 
ness,   stupify    the    dismayed     inhabitant    over 
whose  head  they  rebounded  ;  so  flies  Niagara 
over  us  desperately  swift ;  and  madly  bellowing 
as  it  recoils  high  above  the  trembling  earth, 
astounds  the  aflrighted  senses  of  the  presump- 
tuous mortals,  who  thus  dare  to  break  into  this 
worse    than    Tartarean   dungeon.      An    awful  I 
plunge!      Dreadful   uproar   echos    round    the  I 
deep  abyss,  whilst  the  never-ceasing  war  of  jar- 
ring elements,   break,  quiver,  burst,  and  roHj 
around —      ,.  ..^    ...  .• -.    ,    ■.    ^-'>..::i.-  ,m  ''^■r>'/ 


As  if  the  phrcnziM  demons  of  the  air,  '^      "' 

LoosM  from  their  chaioa  of  adamant  bad  met  ^>^^^f  i>/o 
In  fierce  encounter-  • 


ihroujh  t 


8  of  the 
he.  In  a 
igh;  and 
reyes  to 
looks  of 
to  appal 
>r  human 
ible  walls 
ped  by  a 

whirled 
)ies  time 
i  momen- 

drop  the 
1  peal  the 
and  crags 
of  a  lofty 
0  the  dis- 
ling  loud- 
;ant  over 
i  Niagara 
bellowing 
ng  earth, 
presump- 

into  this 
^n  awful 
ound  the 
rar  of  jar- 

and  roll 


,^'"'g"ng  jell,  and    »roans  of   . 
0  mute  with  the  class  of  ZkL^"""''  ''^^"'' 
'he  angry  spirits  of  the  tor^^l,.*  '"■'"°"''  "'"" 
-^^averns.  seem  to  exliml       '    °'""'"'^'^»'"> 

begone  .-We  obe^  th"  ul  """'  "'""'-"'f 
P'-eoipitately  avva/  rel  "  T  "  "'"'  ""'•'•^"•S 
•comfortable  station.      ^  """'^  ««^"'-e  and 

A'  a  little  distance  fmm  fi 
•nense  rock  has  fallen    .n  '  '"'"'^''  ■'"'  "n- 

ancl  formed  by  chanr.  T""  '"'""''■  '"^S-ents 
»  spacious  gfotir    o^'""''' ''^ '^"•''/-eigh  :  ■ 

<c'°-.l  the  infarcts  oTZ  r'"  '"'""e'  ''-o 
°"'ya  lo^  and   diflicl      '°"«'- "'<»-«  and  left 

T'^ecloudsofsprTvl!       "'"™"'^  from  above 

a-.agreeable  and  seasmir™'. '""^'^  ""^  P'^-^^ 
■•etired  for  shelter   fromfl    ?'''"'•     '''Either  I 
-  the  day  .as  consS^^,?:""  *«  '--"  =  and 
'«   this  hermit-like  c?v^l^?'r'^''««t-ith. 
contents  of  the  "case  ,nd  ^'"^d  upon  the 

<=very  true  pedestHarshoil"'"'     "'"•  -"ioh 
".orelassayed  the  fW^tf^^P''"^'^-'-     Once 

ft''s.  which  appear  leftlt.f'^'^"  •"^'•""^  'h'-' 
»«empt.    AW  coJn  etll    ?'"^'  °"  "'e  second 

"y  s'eps   to  the TtatiVe""'''''  '  ^^'--'l 
Proceeded  to  Ontario  Honl    •o''?"''''  '''  """ 
,1"Ted  of  a  man.  whetW  T^-^"  ""^  '"''>''  ^">- 
behindthe  Falls  of Nial/, ''''.?*'•  ^^"'"red 
'•""dreds."      They   S  a  ,.     1^*"  ^■"'1  "e" 
over  their  faces,  for  intf"  """  '"•"dkerchief 
-ter.  stop  their  eU    afd?^  'h*  Particles  of 
'^-^-/hedeln^eof^p:;^--^^^^^^^^^^^ 


ii 


n 


n 


». 


M 


•'  <. 


i 


■'  '., 


•J  I 


li'2 


PEDESTRIAN    YOUU. 


changing  their  dress  prevent  any  danger  of  injur- 
ing their  health. 

The  path  leads  along  the  browof  the  precipice, 
from  any  part  of  which  is  obtained  the  best 
and  most  comprehensive  view  possible,  of  the 
Grand  Falls.  A  capacious  prospect,  of  them, 
is  afforded  from  the  well  known  Table-rock, 
the  cliffs  near  which,  and  a  part  of  that  huge 
projection  itself,  fell  three  or  four  years  since, 
with  a  tremendous  crash,  and  exposed  the  i;>ter- 
nal  structure  of  the  fetid-limestone,  which  has 
numerou  small  cavities  mostly  filled  with  a  soft 
calcareous  mineral,  aptly  denominated  from  its 
appearance,  petrified  foam.  Heaps  of  fragments 
of  rock  lay  at  the  bottom  of  the  American  falls* 
presenting  from  this  side  a  very  saigular  appear* 
ance.     The  water  dashesupon  them,  and  rolling 

in    different    channels  which  have  worn    deep 
among  the  stones,  causes  by  the  friction,  a  mist 

to  rise  from  the  whole  surface  of  the  descending 

streams ;  resembling,  in  agreat  degree,  rivers  of 

smoking  lava  rolling  down  the  sidesof  a  burning 

mountain.         '  ..  .    , 

Logs  of  wood,  curiously  smoothed  and  round- 
ed at  each  end,  are  always  floating  at  the  edge  of 
the  river,  which,  originally  rough  trunks  of  trees, 
have  been  a  long  while  rubbing  against  each 
other  under  the  cataract,  and  have  at  last  been 
extricated  in  that  regular  form.  Whatever  comes 
over  the  falls  is  destroyed  and  broken  to  pieces. 
Fishes  without  life,  parts  of  animals,  and  the 
limbs  of  human  beings,  it  is  said,  are  sometimes 


Pi;nEST„,.,x    roi-K. 
found  washed  on    tl.<,  u.„         . 
^ver.arenotas  U-eauentT''^'"'^''"'''  ''O"-- 
""'s-'C.  as  we,lo  srel"  '""t'  ''  "^''--'  = 

'"ghb-  elevated,  and  from  ft       "*'  '''"'^  «'»nds 
grandeur.     The  hmo  i  '"    ^^tent  and 

'«ous  scene  which  mt^,  "'"^''  '"  ">«  bo«- 
-  ^oon,  and  to  the  ritu  r'. '"  ''"""""''^ 
«o°n  to  be  precipitated     if  «   l"'"  '^'"«'' '' '»'o 
Wosingrocks;  and  then    Lf  "  ^^^'"'^f^om 
''°"nds  franticiy  o,t      hi  7    """  '"^"''"'"'^e. 
again  recoils-a^ain  hi.     ,  ,''*=*^«°ding  ledge_ 

'•«=  foaming  hiCinL  t  r"''  "'  '"""^ 
hard  through  the  narist '"::";  ""  ''  '"^"'^S'^^ 
once  more,  and  at  lalt  aun^h    'i'""'''^*'  ''"""ds 
"•«  glor,  of  its  own  .,  '^"''"^^"'-""•ngin 
"mdeedawonder.thu  toS'l^,"'  '^'^P'ar-    It 
waters  of  a  chain  of  la^es  an  n      '^""'""'""^'l 
'ending  two   thousand  .i/es        '"  "'''''  «" 
western  territories    her.  ^^  "'^  "°rth. 

strait,  falling  „  J';   ^^   «  i„  a  „»„,, 

"«y-two  feet,  and  de5„c^L "'  ''?"''''*^  «»" 
-  Between  t.eM;:Sri3         ' 

10  •       *^^^**  ""•««  miles 


"i  ;i 


'  If    F.      * 

mi 


i*.^> 


r.^ 


iV    *.i 


k  i 


'  t 


114 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


below  the  falls.  It  is  occasioned  at  a  point, 
where  the  course  of  the  river  is  abruptly 
changed.  The  irresistible  violence  of  the  de- 
scending current,  appears  to  have  excavated  a 
spacious  cove  into  the  facing  bank,  which  rises 
perpendicular  to  the  height  of  three  hundred 
feet  The  water  keeps  constantly  turning  around, 
carrying  along  with  it  floating  logs  and  rubbish, 
all  of  which,  however  bulky,  suddenly  disappear 
in  one  part,  and  emerge  again  at  a  considerable 
distance.  After  stated  intervals,  the  whirlpool, 
which  swells  with  the  collection  of  water,  all  at 
once  disgorges  itself,  and  subsides  to  its  former 
level. 


i 


From  the  Falls  of  Niagara  to  Black-Rock,  near 
the  commencement  of  the  straights,  the  distance 
on  the  American  side  is  about  twenty-one  miles, 
and  Buflaloe  is  two  miles  and  a  half  farther.    A 
thick  forest  extends  a  considerable  number  of 
miles  towards  the  east,  without  any  inhabitants; 
and  here  and  there  only,  along  the  shore,  a  cleared 
field  is  scooped  out  of  the  close  entangled  um- 
brage, like  earth  out  of  the  side  of  a  high  bank. 
The  road  is  not  above  mediocrity ;   and  runs 
mostly  through  the  woods.    Beyond  the  Tonne- 
wanta,  over  which  there  is  a  ferry,  the  shore 
sinks  into  low  fertile  flats  and  marshes,  and  the 
channel  of  the  river  is  divided  by  a  line  of 
islands  of  the  same  description.    Upon  the  dead 
branches  of  wide  spots  of  girdled  trees,  I  saw 
inconceivable  quantities  of  the  smaller  specie?  I 


\\ 


li 


•»-ou,.  a.  the  le.v"l  of  ':h;r.K'""'*'  "  ""- 
'•«"ed  on  had  been  deprived    '      ^  "'"  *«/ 

Mqjor .  an  officer  of  .V!r  """'"*«  "^ 

"rned  in  the  evening  -.A   Vr   .    «*"•    He  re- 
"cquaintance  Jf,^  T*,?^""^''***'  ">«.  from  hie 

■""ch  valuable  informati,/  %^'""'^!'^  "-e. 
orator,  of  the  Six  Nation,  k      I^  **'«'"»  «»«» 
■»»«»  is  greatly  resp^S  /   ^ '""""  ""»  ««»"e- 
house:  and  the  E^' ^'j^;!"!!^  ""^^  «  "- 
affection  for  hin,  in  the  laL     '^^^  '°  e«>«  «" 
Britain,  .ha.  they  adopted  h"''''  '"'*  «««' 
'hieft,  and  gave  him  th!        ""  **  °"«  »'  ">eir 

Red-Jacket  had  been  Zt\  dal  '""'""«• 
ceding.  But.  what  I  shaM  n  .  ^  °'  "'^  P'e- 
"  the  superb  assortment  "/""'?'"'^  «=°"ect. 
«'».  of  which,  he  aTa  °  r °'''''-*^'«'-''  •»'»«- 
«^«>  in  the  oppc^Ue  in  ^"""^  ^°'^''  ^^o 
"nd  beautiful  XL      '   "'  ^""'^^^''  '^  ^ast 

-^^^^Zl^:^-'^  -'^  Indians. 
Buffaloe  isa  wellSS      *"  *^*'">'  ''''"^'ion 

"Pon  'heshorel^'i  Si^Yr""^'  -'%e 

™-  "  has  no  harbour. 


If;: 


•^wfl 


it 


I 


..?• 


:^^      ■ 

if:  ' ''-: 

■ .( t: 


I;  P 


ic 


■     -1 


I 


•'A  ■':  I- 


116 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUH. 


i 


although  a  strong  mole  which  has  been  projected, 
will  supply  that  deficiency. 

The  principal  hotel  is  Pomeroy*s,  from  whicli 
Governor  Cass,  of  the  Michigan  Territory,  and 
suit,  had  just  departed.  My  host  politely  intro- 
duced me  to  Captains  Jones  and  Parish,  agents 
of  the  Six  Nations,  who  had  been  taken  when 
boys,  and  educated  among  the  savage  tribes. 
The  grand  council  had  already  met  on  Sunday, 
and  were  to  meet  again  on  the  Sunday  following. 
Lesser  meetings  were  held  in  the  rooms,  in  which 
I  saw  several  forcible  and  energetic  speeches  de- 
livered by  the  Indians  to  the  agents.  Obeil  or 
Cornplanter,  is  one  of  the  principal  Senecas; 
and  Red- Jacket,  the  noted  warrior  and  counsel- 
lor, who  was  now  at  the  village  of  the  Senecas, 
three  miles  off,  sways  all  the  proceedings  of  the 
tribes  with  his  powerful  eloquence.  Yet  this 
personage  frequently  reels  from  the  tavern,  in 
that  despicable  state  from  which  all  savages  sel- 
dom care  to  escape.  The  head  chief  (Grangula) 
of  the  six  tribes,  I  understood  to  be  a  very  old 
and  venerable  man,  to  whom  a  long  white  beard 
attaches  an  appearance  of  great  dignity. 

When  we  survey  the  national  character  and 
history  of  the  confederated  Mohawks,  Cayugas, 
Senecas,  Oneidas,  Onondagas,  and  (of  late)  Tus- 
caroras,  we  find  an  importance  and  strength  in 
their  councils  and  proceedings,  which  no  other 
savage  tribe  of  North  America  has  exhi- 
bited in  an  equal   degree,   and  which  almost. 


1% 


'ands are „o^ restricted  ton  '"»"«  of  their 

<^er:  and  the  ont  ol°h  r'""'''""'''^''*" 
O-ed  to  cope  .Th  r^tt':f  ?"'^'  '""' 
■nvade  her  provinces,  are  dZdlJ^  .  f'"  '"^ 
»ne  thousand  five  hundrL  Zh^  °  '"''  """> 
'OSS  of  ,heir  comfortable^  «1?;"""-*  '^''« 
destructive  liquors  Jhfi^'    ^  *"""'•  ^n**  *« 

»-come«jri:!rLdi'''^"'r'°'*« 

the  haggard  troon  nf      .  !^   untimeljr  death  and 

f"'  vifTgi'Sh  „r  ot"' '"'"'  *"•'  1-- 

assault:  and  diminbhilfh       ^T""^  '''"■^''  ^ 
te'ingtheirterritorie?  "If ''7-'"' ""' ''^W- 

'easing  their  ia^r^hl'^tK^"^';?  *'*^'^ 
then,,  orof  ivholly  ,.;  „aL^°  T  '=*"«^'«« 
ofEuropean  armsf  uZ  1??  "■*«  V  force 

«■»-.  --eaccodiL7fv!rf-/'*''^*'^"' 
a'-a-ities.  to  the  Brihsh  ^,f'^    '^'    "^ain 
ftemselves  upon  the  11.^    ''  ""'*'   f'''<^^ 
-Wchthey  obtained  eailo'*""''/'""*  "'«> 
"">etj/-uine  years.'    A^tn    1  """  *'""^''*''  ^""^ 
'heir  small  Lrvatio^,  blfh  '  T°''"'"''^  "^ 
harrassed   by  theirT^'  t  *        ""*  ^^P'*' ""d 
concealed  insults.  therhat'T""'    *''"»''  ^^i' 
,  ^"stoms.  and  dispeZ.  r/"'"^*"  *«'  "-cient 
»»">«  dignity;    nave"'''''"°*''=P"<'-''»<l 
|p::2^  seclusions.  ar;;rC;;  - 

'  *  Hawkins. 


•  Ul 


! 


f'      I 


\A 


J 'If-       .    'V 


1  If^^ 


V' 


5'    *»  »: 


i 


!  i; 


,^. 


1  l-tv 


:«<.'. 


If  194 


lis 


I^EDESTRIAN    TOUB. 


cd  their  conquests  over  immeasurable  tracts; 
These  with  the  Cayugas  now  have  their  villages 
upon  the  banks  of  the  river  Ouse,  which  emp- 
ties itself  into  Lake  Erie. 

The  invasion  of  the  st3te  of  New- York,  by 
Count  de  Frontenac,  highly  exasperated  the 
Iroquois  against  the  French,  to  whom  they 
always  proved  themselves,  most  inveterate  ene- 
mies. They  advanced  against  Montreal,  in 
1680,  and  landing  upon  the  island  "  burnt  and 
backed  all  the  plantations,  in  that  quarter,  putting 
men,  women  and  children  to  the  sword."*   '    " 

The  dialect  of  each  tribe  is  nearly  similar. — 
Their  dresses  are  extremely  various  and  fanciful. 
The  love  of  finery  is  prevalent  with  the  gravest 
as  well  as  the  most  ignorant.  Some  have  their  ears 
cut  and  strangely  distorted,  with  heavy  rings 
hanging  to  their  shoulders.  The  blanket  is  the 
universal  robe;  and  for  the  lighter  apparel,  blue 
cloth  is  usually  preferred.  Those  I  saw  about 
the  street  of  Butlaloe,  who  were  collected  from 
each  nation,  presented  a  majestic  mein,  and  a 
noble  contour  of  features  :  they  wore  sashes  and 
adorned  themselves  with  bracelets,  silver  hat- 
bands, and  a  variety  of  extravagant  ornaments; 
at  the  same  time  some  of  them  appeared  to  think 
it  no  degredation,  amidst  their  regal  emblems 
and  lordly  trappings,  to  stoop  meanly  and  pick 
up  the  sixpence  which  they  had  begged  fori 
purchasing  a  glass  of  whiskey.    Otliers  for  the 

•  9aron  La  Hontatt'd  Voyages. 


^^desthun  touh. 


119 


;nnkel8.,iththe  to."   about  Ih'    ''"    ^'"^^'"^ 


tawnej 


coun- 


annn  - 1.    .  "  » lUase  or  canron  ^         Calumet  of  (he 

■^W  who  bear  ariMR   Ortim  *^»"'on.  contains  14  (Mm        , 

Si'^'-n  exchange  al;  ^      '  ""^^  '*''*  *''«'>  ^"^  at  ^^1         """ 
T'le  villages   of  (he  I  -^^ '"'«'an-I684.  * 

iiacic.— CAomp/fl,„.  "    *"«  second  story 

According  to  Pafhp..  w 
*■<»"  Of  olher  «*"  "™7'"'  "»  ''«)"<.«  h.d  c„.  off  .b„ 


v\ 


fir  I 


•1-I-.     x' 


-■•k 


■|.=  ,- 


f. 


120 


PBDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


f  <!     '      >  . 


m 


I 


4  ''■■< 

'4   , 


r; 


w  N'^H 


I' ,  '. 


(« 


Is'' 


li! 


CHAPTER  V.  - 


UPPER   CANADA. 


Friday,  September  21,  1821. 


,      v..     ■    "t 


«•' 


Hoary  looks  produce  respect  to  the  worst  and 
poorest  men :  so  the  lapse  of  ages  excites  admi- 
ration  even  of  ill-fought  battles.    In  the  early 
days  of  Grecian  prosperity,  when   the  clumsy 
art  of  war,  spent  its  efforts  in  scaling  walls  and 
sapping  towers,  and  the  whizzing  of  the  arrow 
marked  the  limits  of  engagement,  their  fiercest 
contests,  were  not  accompanied  with  half  the 
horrors,  with  which  deafening  cannon,  smoke  and 
roaring  musketry  involve  the  combatants  in  mod- 
ern warfare ;  and  yet  their  feats  are  accounted 
extraordinary,  and  the  siege  of  a  small  town  i$ 
celebrated  in  poems  and  histories  without  num- 
ber.   Those  battles,  then,  which  have  transpired  i 
within  a  few  years,  must  indeed  be  worthy  of 
renown,  if  with  all  their  accompanying  errors  J 
seen  still  perspicuous,    men   take  pleasure  in 
repeatedly  describing  them,  poets,  in  singing  the! 
praise  of  the  gallant  leaders,  and  of  which,  thel 
honoured  soldier,  whilst  his  friends  stand  lookingj 
on,  bares  his  breast,  and  exclaims  with  conscic 
applause.  "There  I  received  this  wound."  Suclj 


^ 


"re  the  late  battles,  of  what  h,.  k  ' 

^''»?ara,    are  grounds    It  ,•^"^  """^  foft 

d-stant  quarters.  "'^'''«''   visitors  from 

After  I  had  crossed  over  th»  «f    •  .. 
Rock,  every  step  I  advanced    ^'''"^'''^«'«'aok- 
«''ere  armies  had  ma  "Hj  '^"^  "P""  a  tract 
pitched,  and  feats  Trail  '"""'  '""^  "'^^» 
Here  savages  had  mingled  deTth'^r'""^''-- 
'>e'r  enemies  the  French  and   C   /'     '  °^ 
^ercely  engaged  with  their  felln^'"'  "'^^'^ 
England  met  the  forces  „fp         "^  '^^'^^^ '  here 
-d  ere  Q„ehec  cZZ^Z^'Z  T"  '"^  «^'^- 
«dded  to  the  diade;  of  The  Zfi  ""'"'^  '^'^ 
=>»<!  here  revolutionary  t  1.1   '*  '"'^^"'e^-- 
cansparticularly  interest L  tT."^  '"  ^"-i- 
ed.  to  the  honour  and  dZj^u       '"  P""^"™- 
■ndependent  gover„m£^„:' *: T"  'T'""^ 
J'obe.    Ofthe  recent  event?  „K   u^^**  °^    "^ 
IMied  in  our  armies  Tl  "^  ^"^^  ««»''- 

-ii  as  generos^™  •  Itrat  °'.  ^^^'^'  ^   " 
^e  given  in  this  chapter    ^'    """^^ «''«'<=•>  will 

The  Canadian  side  of  th»  «»_•  1, 
^f  thickly  inhabited  Zil^^'^l'^ ^^'^S^ra, 

'he  water.    The  roaH  „ku/  ''"""'*t«d  near 
,J-tifu,,y„p„:-;;;-h.e.^^^^ 

Chippewa.  Enelish  l,.^^*'*  ""ebankquiteto 
among  the  peop,fj^™*;7«  -'■^  Perceived 
'"•ign-ted  from  th;  SL  ^  '""'  ''°"^^«''  ^ave 
|»P'ivatea„dini^,^«-^ 


li;iM 


,,  ( 


i:     J 


;'• 


hi 


il  .-i  I' 


I' 


M^'*^ 


If:-!  ■!'  1 


1. 


12)2 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUli. 


are  no  longer  within  the  boundaries  of  a  republi- 
can country ;  and  the  crown  is  seen  waving  in  the 
wind  over  the  doors  of  the  numerous  taverns.  At 
Chippewa,  the  field  of  battle  (July  oth,  1814)  is 
a  cleared  levd  piece  of  grouml,  upon  which  the 
parties  must  have  met  upop  equal  terms.  Fort 
Chippewa  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek  or  river, 
together  with  the  magazines,  is  kept  in  good 
preservation.  The  remains  of  the  bridge,  which 
the  Americans  burnt,  are  standing  and  a  new 
one  is  erected,  fartlier  from  the  mouth  and 
nearer  the  centre  of  the  town,    i  .   ^  p .  ... ,,, . 

The  falls,  as  I  approached  them  the  second 
time,  looked  strange  and  beautiful.  The  cur- 
rent appeared  to  sink  among  woody  trees,  which 
form  the  background  of  the  scene  ;  and  over  Iris 
island,  with  its  little  cottage  and  corn-field  at  this 
end,  a  white  mist  was  rising,  and  as  it  swelled^ 
elegantly  decorated  with  the  prismatic  hues  ot 
the  rainbovv,  as  quickly  seemed  to  evaporate. 
The  chasm  which  the  falls  continue,  thoujjh 
slowly,  to  excavate,  will  evidently  be  in  the 
middle  of  the  Horse-shop  Fall,  where  the  hea- 
viest body  of  water  plunges  down :  and  by  the 
time  the  chasm  reaches  the  extremity  of  Iri» 
island.  Fort  Schlosher  Fall  wiU  have  its  weak 
jjupply  entirely  turned  into  th^  riea;iest  pass^  Jind 
will  disappear.        v        "     .      ?,  ;, 

Almost  within  sight  of  the  Grand  Cataract,  is  I 
the  spot  upon  which  the  battle  of  Bridgewater 
or  Lundy*s  Lane,  was  fought,  (July  35th,  18HJ 


V*". 


fc'<;iii:l    A  H-:fvl     i^i  -JiZfl    -s.^W^ 


awisti 

eventi 

conne 

so  mai 

them  £ 

the  exf 

^erdisl 

^evolut 

jfele  par 

he  fougl 

and  fror 

^y  the  c 

esteem, 

tain  S-^ 

most  im| 

'  ^erprizes. 

kuties,wi 


republi- 
ng  in  the 
ems.  At 
1814)  ib 
hich  ttic 
IS.  Fort 
or  river, 
in  good 
;e,  which 
d  a  new 
)uth  and 

i  second 
The  cur- 
es, which 
over  Iris 
lid  at  this 

snrelletl, 
jhues  ol 
vaporate. 
,  though 
)e  in  th« 
I  the  hea- 
d  by  the 
^  pi  Iris 

its  wealc 
pass,  and 


rEBESTRUN    TOL-S. 

■•'iKl  which  may  be  rero»„-    jv  ^ 

"ence,  fiom  which  tl^l'T''"  «■»»"  ^mi- 
enemy.     ■.,,!!!!;  """  '"^'•"'c  Miller  drove  the 

-'^t:^rsr  "7"^"'"-  woodi 

;i'fflculty  alon/tL  i '' !""    P^°'^^eding  with 

A  fnend  and  relative,  Mr  S    .     u 
*»«•"  a  member  of  th^  pf  i  '  "''"'  ''^  'onfi 

"f  Upper  Canada  a„dhr"'T'"  '"•Assembly  • 
I'Ortance  and  resporsfbfli  "^^  °"''''  """'^^^  °<"  ™- 
•nain  a  few  days'^att'   f '  .'"'"^  '"^  *"  '"«- 
Reflections  Of  t^^'  „!.;''"■  "«"'•  Q»eensto„. 

«P'aMe  to  people  ori"''T'''^'^^^»»»'^- 
"-ej  are  imp ^^    ^"1  "'"'"*"»«'J«g.  as 
'«»'-3ted  in  turning  thT^t  "TT  "  ™»  "''« 
"vents,  his  private  history!  I^'  °' P°"«<^«' 
connected  with  his  DuhK  ''"  "separably 

'»  -any  great  ch  rac^'thT?    ^"^""'•^  ""^ 
«>«•»  all :  and  Americll?.     ^''1  '''""°'  »°«« 
*e  exploits  of  he^nemil    ""'t'^  '"  ""»'-''« 
terdistinguished  re^rdT  Th     ^'"'''""^  P''^  '» 
revolutionary  war  Drov!'^  T' ^f  ""«■»««,  in  the 
We  parti».„'of  the  B S     r'  '^  '™  '"««- 
he  fought  dauntlessly  n  ali  ,h         '^  >'°"nff  man. 
»nd  from  his  knowledge  of  Am  """""="  ''=«H 
hy  the  commanders.  Iho  hefdt"'''  T  '''°'«" 
.f'eem.  and  were  alwavs„l  J    .'?*' '"«''"* 
;'n;^  under  their 7^1^  to    '"'"«  ''''^■ 


t) 


■  '^  if, 
If' 


■  }^ 


i<. 


:nj 


.N 


V. 


1 

I 


124 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


i 


the  reward  which  Washington  offered  for  hishead, 
he  underwent  adventures,  of  which  we  can  only 
find  their  equal  in  the  pages  of  a  romance.  Indeed, 
his  life  if  written,  with  above  fifty  battles  in  which 
he  has  fought,  would  form  a  most  interesting 
work.  Concealed  in  the  hollow  trunk  of  a  tree, 
or  under  a  low  bridge,  dragoons  often  trampled 
over  his  head,  balked  of  their  prize.  More  than 
once  he  was  actually  taken,  put  in  fetters,  and 
f  losely  watched  ;  yet,  by  means  of  friends,  (and 
it  is  to  be  regretted,  there  are  always  in  the 
United  States  too  many  hostile  spirits  well  con- 
cealed,) he  accomplished  his  escape.  The  most 
difficult  undertaking  was  a  journey  for  some 
special  purpose,  from  Quebec  to  New- York, 
disguised  and  on  foot,  at  a  time  when  few 
roads  or  settlements  had  been  made  far  from  the 
principal  bays  and  rivers.  Having  been  ordered 
by  the  British  commander  to  take  his  station 
fvith  a  company  in  a  private  place,  with  express 
orders  to  sieze  the  mail,  without  attempting 
any  thing  besides :  whilst  anxiously  waiting 
at  the  head  of  his  men  with  his  pistols  ready, 
General  Washington  himself,  accompanied  by 
some  officers,  pas^id  along,  at  the  distance  of 
two  or  three  yards :  one  aim  would  have  taken 
the  life  of  their  great  enemy ;  but  he  repressed 
his  troop,  and  with  the  strictest  obedience  of  n 
soldier,  accomplished  that  design  only,  upon 
which  he  had  been  sent.  After  the  peace,  he 
dined  with  General  Washington,  when  that 
truly  great  man,  recognising  him,  asked,  **  Are 


•  The  ml 


hishead, 
:an  only 
Indeed, 
in  which 
teresting 
if  a  tree, 
rampled 
ore  than 
;ers,  and 
ds,  (and 
I  in  the 
rell  con- 
'he  most 
or  some 
w-York, 
hen  few 
rom  the 
ordered 
>  station 
i  express 
empting 
waiting 
8  ready, 
nied  bj 
itance  of 
ire  taken 
^pressed 
nee  of  % 
U  upon 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


!  'I 


,i      fj 


126 


you  not  the  Dersnn      u 

^^^^Pon  a  certl\       '"'^^^ '^«ve  taken  my 
plied     «  T  occasion  ? "  *«  y^r  "  k    ^ 

^'"^^       I  am  that  S^p   fn.    u         *   ^®  ''^ 

^^  »  poor  appea^nee    "^I'j  '"'^*'  ^'cJ" 

of -U  commerce  to  theTo'rh •  '""^  **  *""""'«'' 
fffe  at  the  embouchure  ofN       "^  '"'""  °^^'^- 
''ouses  are  i„  ruins    and  th^*^"'''-    ^""^  °f  «»e 
^•^ge  are  left  totteri  i'^'J^^t  "'"^  '^'«^^'« 
bank.     The    precede  '■"''*'"'««'••«  the 

remarkable  over  tte'l, ''""«••.     ''hid.     ^a, 
coldness,  (roze  tte  wt^''  '"""""^  '"o'  e^'reme 
-'hadamantiaoTrin":^.''!"  ^1"  '"-  Straights 
"!ff   from  the   fall?  '^:r    ''"'^*^«««««d- 
P'eces,  accumulated'  to  1  m     '"'^   ""^^    "» 

huWdrngs  on  either  side^th     1  '^  "•"*  "'hw- 

^he  affluent  circu,««°  ^  ^''^"«''      "=' 
abled  h™     "  '^"'^"'nstances  of  Mr  o 

,."  '"■»•  to  spend  his  t,m«  *•  «n- 

'"cLnations;  he  therefore  "V''f'''"«  '^  «« 
Md  «e  rode  to  ForrGeoL^'f.'^'"'^  ''«  <*aise, 
f-'^    of  the    coul5°'^!Vr"'''»"^°'''- 
'"een    Queenston   and  *  v        .*"''''^"^     B^ 
'^^re    thrown  up  i^f  ^'?"^'   fortificatio« 

*«  Americans. ^urTn^thT'^'  "'   P''^'^   ^ 
B"«*  peninsula.    Ei'"- P°^-'on  of  thi 

'"•^^edi*  buthas  risen  lot     "^    ^""'"^'^^  ^e- 
-as   before.    The   ZrZT"'"'"''  "«"'  " 

•Th.i„,K.  ■"•■"■''  ""-^^^jr  rich. 


«<'  j 


'  >ll 


V26 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUH. 


^M^^ 


r 


y- 


V\ 


H: 


■  lit 


yf 


!•» 


About  a  mile  from  the  town  and  almoBt  among 
the  woods,  is  the  court-house  and  prison,  a 
spacious  and  very  magnificent  brick  edifice. 
Gourlay,  who  created  so  much  disturbance 
throughout  Canada  in  1818,  was  tried  here,  for 
inciting  insurrection  among  the  inhabitants, 
and  received  sentence  of  banishment  from  the 
country.  In  this  year  the  radical  reformers  of 
Great  Britain  were  holding  their  meetings  in  the 
fields;  and  at  one  of  their  largest  meetings  in 
Scotland,  where  I  was  at  that  time,  I  heard  a  list 
of  resolutions  read  from  the  hustings,  which  in- 
timated among  other  things,  that  it  would  be 
expedient  to  bring  the  British  subjects  in  Ame- 
rica, into  the  same  views  with  themselves,  and 
that  a  proper  understanding  should  be  established 
between  the  distance  countries.  My  friend, 
"Who  was  the  prosecutor  of  Gourlay,  pointed  to  a 
strong  beam  of  a  gallery  in  the  spacious  and  ele- 
gant court  room,  which,  he  said,  bent  downwards 
with  the  weight  of  spectators.  The  doleful  voice 
of  a  poor  debtor  sounded  through  a  little  hole  of 
ione  of  the  dungeons,  as  we  passed  the  prison 
rooms,  and  Mr.  5>— -e  agreed  to  assist  in  extrica- 
ing  him  out  of  his  unfortunate  situation. 

The  barracks  at  Newark  are  extensive.    A  re- 
giment of  troops  are  garrisoned  here,  who  ^xer- 

troyed.    A  recent  paragraph  in  a  New  York  paper,  shows  that  their  | 

request  has  been  granted. 

December  17,  1821. 

*'  Ten  thousand  pounds  sterling  have  tately  been  distributed,  by  the! 

British  Government,  among  individuals,  on  the  Canadian  frontier,  fori 

loss  in  buildings  and  stores  during  the  late  war,  at  Niagara,  Queeit| 

«ton,  Chippewa  &c."  ^ 


Itafl 

grounds 

bought. 

^^•e  shoi 

"ies  of  t 

*"'g.ing  t 

the  gJittc 

coming  i 

iong  scati 

iives  fron 


>  \ 


.  among 
rison,  a 
ediiice. 
urbance 
lere,  for 
ibitants, 
i'om  the 
rmers  of 
!;s  in  the 
tings  in 
rda  list 
^hich  in- 
ouid  be 
in  Ame- 
ves,  and 
abiished 
'  friend, 
nted  to  a 
and  ele- 
wnwards 
ful  voice 
le  hole  of 
e  prison 
\  extrica* 

I.  ;^     ' 

B.    A  re- 
rho  ^xer- 


^^^^^LniAS    TOUR.  J    . 

B'-iti-l.  troops,  is  reallv  .  .        ,  "PP-^sfan^e    of 
•"•••'very  equaMbeS.;;'''^1'^'=  ''""'^"'"'>- 
-'•-of„o  other  ni;^^^^^^^^    ''"'P'-^'  'he 
hem.    Those  we  saw  unon  ,h      """P"'"^'!  "'''h 

I'-"'' regiment  habUeTJaH'  """"''  ^''««» 
^eproceededtoc,  ;;';J*^7"""on„. 

posed  visiting  the  rrn     j    T  ^^'""'ay.  and  pro- 

through  Queenston,     oLerr^ .       ""'^-     f'^'-'g 
«  'hey  passed  sho;ed  tt  "'^  "'"^  P^'^^'on 

;f' e  -'e«ainerr:po:rh::rh'^'°r'^  -- 
"-•^an  old  dog  in  avi^H^e  '"'^'  "  '  »>» 

''""•^^  -ne."    There  wa  1 1,   T^  ''""^   '"  i, 
fx-ouliarly  interesting;  a  Joun<""'  '''••  «--> 
h'h-ted  a  stern  and  pinL^       ,""'"  "'"'  ^x- 
'"'•'d  -inkles  of  an h'o„::rf„f '"'=•'  >*""  'he 
character  that  blended  Itf  "''^"'"•a'e.  and  a 

'''"'ntless  courage  of  a  dal^L     ''""'""^  -•">  the 
V  .    ...r       *  """"g  commander. 

rntut^^t;i^^^^ 

'i'ught.    At  every  ste.7  »   ?       '""^*  have  been 
'he  shouts  of  the  viSious     "^i '".  ''"''^"'ation! 

"■es  of  the  conque;:J^^Te  :e?t, '''  '^'"^  ''^°- 
'"•Rmg  their  welried  ti^ol?*  "'*^'"»"ande« 
'he  glittering  files  of  S2  TT"  ''"''^'^«. 


In  : 

liill 


'^  I 


■  ri 


li; 


i 


1*1 .  ■- 


128 


PEDESTRIAN   TOun. 


> 


kl 


The  thouofht  intrudes  itself,  that  the  very  spot  wr 
arc  standing  on,  may  have  drank  the  crimson 
streams  ot*  some  unfortunate  husband  or  of  some 
hapless  son,  dying  upon  a  distant  field,  far  from 
home,  unknown  and  perhaps  unpitied. 

My  friend,  accompanied  me  on  Monday,  as  he 
had  proposed,  to  the  redoubts  and  breastworks, 
remaining  on  Queenston  Mountain.  His  know- 
ledge of  the  events  of  the  late  war,  his  acquaint- 
ance with  officers  on  both  sides,  and  his  bearing 
an  active  part  in  the  engagements  at  this  quarter 
in  1812  and  1813,  enabled  him  to  give  me  very 
particular  information  concerning  the  frontier 
Irf.usactioiisof  tlie  several  campaigns.  He  sprang 
with  the  aj^ility  of  a  youth,  over  the  ditches  and 
upon  the  bulwarks  of  the  fortifications,  although 
advanced  age  had  silvered  his  locks,  and  his 
breatt  and  arms  gave  proofs  of  the  numerous 
^wounds  he  had  received.  As  he  described  each 
successive  battle,  he  paced  the  decayed  parapet 
with  apparent  satisfaction,  adding  occasionally, 
appropriate  and  energetic  actions.  Captain  S — e 
was  a  stout  loyalist ;  and  a  man  who  would  fight 
for  the  land  in  which  he  lived.  He  allowed,  there- 
fore, very  little  in  favour  of  the  Americans. 

The  commencement  of  hostilities  between 
Oreat  Britain  and  the  United  States,  appears  to 
have  been  upon  the  frontiers  of  Canada ;  where 
the  inhabitants,  especially  of  tlie  Upper  Province 
of  Canada,  were  ready,  both  to  resist  and  to  com- 
mit depredations,  upon  the  first  intimation  ot{ 
ihe  war. 


Van 

enable  to 

^''oops,    g 


spot  we 
crimson 
of  some 
far  from 

jy,  as  he 
stworks, 
s  know- 
cquaint- 
bearing 
I  quarter 
me  very 
frontier 
e  sprang 
ches  and 
although 
and  his 
umeroufi 
bed  each 
parapet 
sionally, 
ain  S — e 
uld  fight 
d,  there- 
icans. 
between 
»pears  to 
i;  where 
Province 
1  to  com- 
lation  of  I 


Tlio  /iist  nlTiiif  ,.!■      . 

^'■"•;  «|.e„,,.e  thl' ZZ       T     ''^  ^"^^  Michi- 

'''«>  lakes,  rivers  and  bounrr  '^'""^  °*-^'- "» 
">  Cha,„p|ai,,  Where  «^  '"''  '■'"°'°  «"'<"' 
"""'"  not  „,cet  each  oL '  ';"'"''"'""&  Powers 
"-  'and.   floating    2t;",^^-  -"A-t  up„„ 

'"«'^t  each  other  ,17  .!    t  "'^^  '^"'""^^  '» 

'-fore theconc,:::     ^  r^^rh!"!' ""•  «''"""    ' 
"•e  amount  of  twenty  wthtr  tt      *" ''°°P* '» 
'^Pulse  at  these  parts  «L  I  ^,   °""  ''<*  ""^n.  «<> 

■eturned  to  Fort  Detroft  k  '  "  '^"'"^^^  «'«"'/ 
^"-•rendered  abovft^o  L""!  '"^  "^  '''"'"'^d  h^ 
»"«  Americans,  to  Mf  Lr  ^''^''''''''''l^^al- 
^'nd  Indians :    and   I,     T'^^''  "^  Canadians 

*"%an.  a  BritS  fix  ^^"'^ '''-'--<• 

'"vasion  of  Canada.  .'^''''*^'  *"•  »  second 

*^an    Rensselear     ih^ 
;»able  to  restrain  'the  rash'^"?'"'''-'"-^'''-'' 
'fops,    gave  orders  for  cL'^T">'  ^^  '"'' 

"'  N-gara.     The  nigh    ar„"'/.''  ^'«''8'"« 

""gnt  appointed    (October 


*■; 


1. 


'   . 


^'11-?  '' 


h'k 


t 


"I    II 

11 ! 


I.i/I 


y  <  1- 


K  ¥fi- 


1^    f 

:4. 

■ 

1. 

* 

-it 

?  ■'* 

4 .; ' 
■'*^ 

!»■  • , 

r 

■si;:; 

•J 

HIT 


i.30 


TEDESTRIAN    TOUIt, 


1 1th)  was  dark  and  stormy;  and  the  enterprize 
owing  to  the  difficulties  of  the  pass,  and  the 
treachery  of  guides,  failed. 

Preparations  for  embarkation,  said  the  cap- 
tain, were  observed,  making  among  the  Americans 
on  Tuesday  morning,  from  our  battery  upon 
this  height ;  soon  after  a  constant  volley  of 
balls  whizzed  harmless  over  our  heads  from  the 
opposite  mountain:  the  countenances  of  my 
men  turned  pale  as  death.  Whirling  about,  in 
the  swift  eddies  of  the  river,  their  boats  filled 
with  soldiers  tardily  approached,  whilst  a  dread- 
ful Cannonading  was  opened  against  them. 
Even  to  a  soldier  and  an  enemy  it  was  appaling, 
to  view  their  perilous  condition,  with  a  blazing 
fire  in  front,  shells  and  bullets  dashing  up  the 
water  on  all  sides,  and  many  ofthem  sinkifig  and 
carried  down  on  the  stream. 

Having  effected  a  landing  with  the  loss  of 
nearly  halfj  who  irere  killed,  or  who,  rais- 
ing the  point  of  landing,  surrendered ;  the  di- 
minished battalion  ran  up  the  mountain  with 
loud  shouts  and  the  British  troops,  overcome 
by  their  still  superior  numbers,  retreated  down 
the  steep  to  Qneenston.    ^  '■    '^^^    -  **'<—  ^     '■' 

With  less  difficulty,  the  Americans  con- 
tinued to  pass  over,  when  General  Brock  arri- 
ved from  Fort  George,  with  a  large  detach- 
ment, and  in  his  turn  made  an  attack  upon  the 
heights.  But  a  random  shot  took  the  life  of 
this  brave  commander  and  turned  the  fortune  of 
that  hour.     It  was  no  rifle  shot,  said  the  aged 


of  ; 

wee] 

bodj 

ihe  a 

Tl 

upon 

h^id  ] 

and  d 

f>urit] 

Rear  \ 

siiocki 

cent  c< 

was,  c 

^heir  ni 

^y  rout 

against 

*^ie  sam 

ihe  opp 

I  America 

I  proachin 

how  we 

Medians 

p^aze  of 

f^W  pre 

*  i 


■  i 


iterprize 
and  the 

the  cap- 
mericans 
.ry  upon 
olley  of 
rom  the 
s  of  my 
bout,  in 
its  filled 
a  dread- 
t  them, 
ippaling, 
I  blazing 
g  up  the 
kifig  and 

e  loss  of 
ho,  mis- 
;  the  di- 
tain  with 
>vercome 
ted  down 


<m'fin  with  earnestness  •    ;/ 

^'^^^"^a'- as  any  I  ever  saw  kT.'  ^^'^""^  ^s 
-"-e^mg  the  body  tC  the  ''f /^^^  ^'^^'"^e  of 
-^eed  a  pa,„,^  ^ 

^^   the  Village,  met  our  solP.t  "^  ^^'"^^^ 

^^^^P'ng    boisterouslv     h!       ?  P^^^^^«s'o„,  and 

;7  .'^:'=,nr'^:;-«i  «».„,.. . 

''•Id  planted  their  <,»■,„  7  .        '"'  ''"^^^  d.ey 

-•1  declared  cCdl   "ott  "'''"'   "^  --""^ 
0""ng  this  time  a„   T    .^.''  ^°"1«ered  co«ntrv 
"-their    e„tr„:„„  i;^'?  "f  «'-^.ied  tl'o' 

«nt  copse  of  wfod  Set  ,T"  '"'°  »"  "'^^a- 
f «.  collecting  to  tL  aM  ?  V'"'"^''^'^  Chip^. 
*->mang,ed^ount;;„"'/ :'';,^«»"''A  fo^d 

'^  "-ound  the  disfigufedbodv        """"^  ''«»«-- 
»f  "^  the  perpetrators    "l^  [-"^^  ve„g,,„^^ 

he  same  <Jay,  the  attack  ,«         ^  ''"""'«°''  of 
(he  ODnosi>«   k     .  "^"^  lenewed      r  ; 

I  ,       wosite  banks   of  ths    ,•  i'liiing 

American  soldiers  stL    1     ''^'■'  "  ">°"sand 

P-achi„gftteof  the  t;^*'''''""^  '"«  «P- 
^l  ^^  yelled;  we  scrS'"'  '  "^""^  ^~^. 
l/ndians    whooped     ,,      ""^^  '^"^e  than  eve, 

"«==«=  of   roarh,.'  r,""''  ''""^  ^"-'^-ed  i„    ' 

b^  -*  drove  s  sr'T-7''  "«= «"««; 

fW  precipice   of  I  '' '^'S'"^''^''.  over  "4* 
h^'«<'-'-rL^--t^  The  earth 


,.  "^^-na^.fl  account  of, he  ,fl^;, 


Hi 


'^  t. 


.J,   '.i;r;    !> 


f    ■  I 


■  •■?■■■ 


,.M 


1  j^  i;^,-;i*    V'^ 


r 


132 


PEDESTitlAN    TOUK. 


our  king  and  country!  we  shouted,  and  the 
painted  Indians  rushed  onward  flourishing  the 
bloody  tomahawks.* 

The  Americans  knew  the  unmerciful  nature 
of  the  savages,  and  therefore,  rather  than  fall 
into  their  hands,  they  ran  with  the  blindest  fury, 
and  precipitated  themselves  upon  the  bushes, 
or  dashed  upon  the  rocks  at  the  bottom  of  the 
cliffs,  which  form  one  side  of  the  chasm  of 
Niagara. 

We  lead  on  to  this  spot,  said  he,  moving  a 
little  ways  down  the  declivity  under  which 
there  was  an  awful  precipice ;  and  hallooing  to 
the  battery  on  Lewiston  mountain,  which  w^as 
pouring  its  shot  upon  us,  cried,  "  Fools !  dont 
you  perceive  that  the  Indians  will  step  firing 
upon  your  men,  as  soon  as  you  stop  your  own 
fire?"  They  stopped  accordingly  and  so  did  the 
Indians.  By  a  foot  path,  down  to  the  bottom 
of  the  steep,  we  proceeded  to  the  conquered 
Americans.  Some  had  endeavoured  to  swim 
across  the  rapid  stream,  and  were  drowned  in 
(he  attempt.  Many  were  killed  in  the  fall  from 
the  brow  of  the  rocky  cliffs.  One  unfortunate 
man  fell  and  died  in  the  limbs  of  a  tree,  which 
we  were  obliged  to  cut  down  in  order  to  bury  | 
him.     Only  four  hundred  prisoners  survived. 

After  the  battle  of  Queenston,  the  respective] 
armies  retired  into  winter-quarters.    First,  how- 
ever.   General   Smyth   who    superceded    Van] 
Rensselear,  made  a  feeble  attempt  to  enter  Cana* 
da  near  Black-Rock;    but  was  repulsed  with] 


PEDESTRIAN   TOVE. 


lai 


oving  ii 

'    which 

3oing  to 

lich  was 

)lsl  dont 

cp   firing 
our  own 

lo  did  the 
bottom 
,nquered 
to  swim 
>wned  in 
fall  from 
ifortunate 
|ee,  which 
ir  to  bury 
vived. 
•espective 

lirst,  hovr- 
Led    Van] 
tterCana- 

ised  yfM 


disgrace.  The  British  troops  under  Procter  aiwl 
the  Indian  warrior  Tecumseh,  gained  a  victory 
in  the  middle  of  the  winter,  at  the  bead  of  Lake 
Erie.        '  -  ^ 

The  campaign  of  eighteen  hundred  and  thirteen^ 
opened  with  an  attack  upon  the  capital  of  Upper 
Canada.  Chauncey  conveyed  the  army  from  Sack*> 
ett*s  Harbour  under  general  Pike.    It  appeared  to 
be  the  policy  of  Sheaffe,  who  commanded  at  York, 
10  use  stratagems  in  war,  and  to  destroy  an  enemy 
in  the  safest  and  most  expeditous  manner.    The 
Americans  advanced  in  good  order  towards  the 
^^arrison,  in  ^  hich  he  had  retreated,  and  halted 
in  expectati    .  rf  a  capitulation.    In  an  instant 
the  earth  was  convulsed  with  the  explosion  of  a 
large  magazine,  near  the  barracks,  and  the  air 
was  blackened  with  immense  masses  of  rocks 
and  timber,  which  showered  death    upon  the 
unsuspecting  column.     Remote  districts  felt  the 
tremendous    shock;    and    several    Englishmen 
tliemselves  fell  victims  to  the  explosion.     Two 
hundred  Americans,  with  the  brave  and  gener- 
ous Pike,  were  levelled  beneath  the  descending 
ruins.    The  rest  of  the  column  pushed  onward 
;md  took  the  town.     It  was  a  dear  bought  victory, 
land  may  be  called  the  third  unfortunate  onset 
of  the  Americans,    towards    the    conquest   of 
[Canada.     York  was  soon  after  evacuated.    -        « 
Now  the  invasion  of  Canada,  was  undertaken 
it  Niagara  with  some  degree  of  vigour.    Ameri- 
ca could    centre  her  whole    force  at  a  spot, 

12 


1 1 


.,» 


■  %t 


■f; 


'^' 


i    ) 


"  i.i-  ■  ^'i 


»* 


\m 


134 


F£D£STRIAJi   TOUA. 


where  England  could  with  difHculty  send  her 
3oldiers.  It  must  he  considered  highly  honoura- 
ble to  us,  said  captain  S— e,  that  we  defended 
the  frontier  for  so  long  a  time.  I  was  upon  my 
old  redoubt  upon  the  mountain,  the  very  ram- 
part upon  which  I  now  stand,  from  day-break  to 
sunset,  watching  with  my  spy-glass  the  transac- 
tions at  Fort  George  and  Niagara.  Yonder 
Chauncey*s  gallant  vessels  scudded  the  borders 
of  that  great  fresh- water  ocean.  There  his  boats 
pushed  eagerly  around  Fort  Niagara  across  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  and  boldly  advanced  towards 
Fort  George.  There  Scott, — ^whom  friends 
and  enemies  admire,  lead  his  men  to  the 
charge,  and  leaped  upon  that  high  and  per- 
spicuous parapet.  This  way  the  arms  of  our 
troops  under  general  Vincent,  gleamed  among 
the  trees,  as  they  wisely  retired  after  colonel 
Myers  had  been  wounded,  from  the  overwhelm- 
ing numbers  of  their  assailants, 

Fort  George  was  taken  on  the  twenty -seventh 
of  May ;  and  the  day  ensuing  the  British  yielded 
the  possession  of  the  Straights  toDearbon's  army. 
They  continued  to  retreat  along  the  shore  of 
Or^^ario,  followed  by  a  part  of  the  American 
forces,  for  fifty  miles,  when  they  turned  upon 
their  pursuers  in  the  dead  of  night,  and  took 
the  two  generals.  Winder  and  Chandler,  pri^ 
soYiers. 

Some  time  after,  a  small  body  of  British  sol- 
diers were  posted  at  the  Beaver-dams,  a  place  I 


I-EDESTIIIAN    TOUR.  j^. 

Bi^^rastrr  ^^'"^'  -'"-  -o-I 

•nent.    His  pr^rL  'thro  jni.**"''''''''  ^^'^'^^ 
suddenly  stopp^  bv  ,nn^   .    ^   "'°°^'''  ^as 

»"perior  number    a„T?^   .""'"'  «"''-«''derto 
•vhen  the  large  armvn  '"•  *'"'^''  ""*  »™*  • 

Indians  and  f4u,r  Ztl^"  ''  "  ^""P^^  ^^ 
^Ives  by  a  favourable  '  ,  ""'^"'«^'»  t^em. 
and  bushes.  "'  P"""""  """ong  the  trees 

During  the  possession  of  Fort  r»„    - 

Americans.    Sir  George  Prev^  ?r^"  ''J'  *« 

J^d  advanced  to  the  Stfaigh  s  a'n        ^?'"""'' 

'*es  ensued  in  the  couS  th^      '"""  *''*'"- 

Parties  of  the  British  in  ?.i  """*''•   S""*" 

•rere  forced  to  returl  !l""  *'"*  B'^^k-Rocfc, 
The  Six^ation: Sil  *:l?":''»S  any  thing! 
at  war  with  Canada,  Srfrili?""' *^''»'*'^«» 

SorgT  tThorint  -~   -  Fo": 
American'comie   it  2'""'°"    "«»    "-e 
a  momentous  e.pedi«;„  ^^  ^n"  ""/^"'*^' 
K.ngston  at  the  outlet  of  The  iS^^""*'  '^'"« 

in  the  mean  while.  Perry's  vi^r 
Ene  produced  respect  and  ^^  '     f  "''•^  °"  ^""^e 
can  naval  fo..es.  a^d  prrvtt7s  1°  t'  ^'"^"- 
from  risking  a  final  ;„"'«''  ^ir  James  Yeo 

"o.    Harrison  ^iTfr.r'"°"^'^«  0»'a- 
Wned  British  and  IndlnV.'^  "'""'■"•«  ^om- 


1:1  §:$] 


A 


'['¥. 


■',^    U 


■'.i 


''';;^ 


4; 


■f '••  ^!. 


.6  :. 


136! 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


St.   Clair,)  in  which  the  great  Tecumseh  was 
killed. 

On  the  second  of  October,  Wilkinson  departed 
)ipon  the  expedition  to  Kingston  and  Montreal, 
leaving  behind  a  garrison  of  militia  under 
ilie  command  of  M*Clure ;  who  concluded, 
in  December,  to  evacuate  Fort  George.  The 
British  were  rapidly  approaching,  when  an  explo- 
sion was  heard,  and  the  beautiful  village  of 
Newark  was  soon  aftei  seen  |in  flames.  Notice 
had  been  given  by  M*Clure,  to  the  inhabitants 
for  removing  their  effects,  only  a  few  hours  previ- 
ous to  this  wanton  and  unjustifiable  act.  Similar 
outrages  had  indeed  been  committed  on  the  sea- 
uoard  of  the  United  States,  by  English  squadrons : 
but  the  system  of  retaliation  is  unwarrantable 
even  in  war,  and  reciprocal  injuries  are  always  of 
a  growing  nature.  The  approaching  army  met 
the  innocent  sufferers  flying  in  all  directions. 
Each  handsome  house  was  soon  reduced  to  a 
heap  of  ashes,  whilst  the  cloud  of  smoke  hover- 
ed over  the  Americans  as  they  escaped  across  the 
river.  Here  was  the  commencement  of  the 
devastations  of  the  Niagara  frontier.* 


I 

"'■t> 


*  The  difference  of  the  principles  on  which  the  war  was  carried  on 
by  the  Americans  and  by  the  ^.-  -H_  is  rery  s*triking;:  the  first 
uniformly  disavowed  the  system  of  r<  Nation  for  the  outrages  commit* 
ted  by  the  British  officers,  consf  Bring  them  unauthorized  until 
expressly  acknowledged  by  the  Bi  ish  government :  on  the  contrary 
the  British  proceeded  at  once  to  rr  .aliate,  without  waiting  to  inquire, 
whether  the  violation  of  the  laws  o^  ><rar  was  disapproved  or  sanctioa* 
ed.  The  United  States  declared  the  burning  of  Newark  to  have  been 
unauthorized.— £racJk<nri(2fe. 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUfi. 


137 


took  Fort  NiagaX  L^r  "  '"^''''  '^^'^i' 
Of  December,  f„d  Kh"'  **".*"  "'"«*««"* 
"rid  slaughter  amonl  «  "     "  ""'''  ''^  ^«»geance 

«on.Lewisto„,SaX5rTM'r  '"  ^°«"8- 
Rock,  destroy  nTtoS:^'''***''*'"'  "-"^  B'»ck. 

d»n,.  They  met.  howler  wi*.  '"^"""^  ''- 
from  the  mm..  Uo  hr^^^J^rt"'™^*' 
pose  of  stopping  their  mar?hSi!f  ""'  f"'- 
has  since  risenso  Jaree  anH?:.  .*'**'  ''^'"'^ 

xeducedtoa  heap  o  d„ders.Th  "'l  '"'^  '"'«> 
tiy  to  a  great  eTt»nf      ^*'^*-    "he  whole  coun- 

Jorced  to  aban/on^irhr^sliV^"'^''''"^' 
hideous  wilds  to  Batavia  TZa     l""'*''^  ""<* 
'"•nter.    The  suffered  1^      \  ^^'^  ""^  "  ^"^ 
f  iated.  and  thf^Zr  o^T  ,7"'  ''  '^"^^ 
declared  himself  wfarie™:    "    sX'  ^""'^ 

"on.     I  addressed  persons  k„!  ^    .    °  ****"- 
--eagerly  pressinjari  £ Te  "a^w*  k""* 
ged  them  to  curb  the^relentwr'    "**  ''^- 
*e  feelings  of  industrL^ u«T„l  t  T' 
*o  reserve  their  violence  for  re^^^rt?       '"*' 

j^  ^r  regular  engagements 


'li 


\ 


4i 


■^i 

1 

• 

>    , 

1 

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,    ;'  .'• 

ll 

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f 

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■ 

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v-^ 


r, 


I 


i 


■J 


■    ■■! 

■-''ill 


4:? 


138 


VfiDi:81JJlIAN    TOUK. 


on  the  field,  and  not  to  exert  their  skill  in  the  de- 
struction of  the  husbandman*s  property.  But 
such  is  the  fortune  of  war ;  much  of  my  own 
property  suffered  afterwi  -ds,  by  an  incursion 
of  the  very  people  whose  misfortunes  I  had 
deplored. 

The  middle  of  the  summer  of  1314,  found 
Fort  Niagara  still  in  the  possession  of  the  British ; 
general  Brown,  now  the  commandec-in-chief,  was 
still  collecting  and  disciplining  his  forces  upon 
the  frontier,  and  general  Orummond  awaiting 
with  the  veteran  regiipents,  which  were  fast  trans* 
porting  from  England,  his  expected  attempts 
upon  the  Canadian  shore.  Captain  Buck  com- 
manded Fort  Erie,  which  was  suddenly  sur- 
rounded by  the  Americans,  on  the  third  of  July, 
and  completely  taken  by  surprise*  The  Ameri- 
cans were  thus  in  possession  of  a  strong  British 
fort,  at  one  end  of  the  Straights  of  Niagara, 
whilst  the  British  were  in  possession  of  a  power- 
ful American  fortress  at  the  other  extremity. 

The  second  day  after  this  event,  (July  5th, 
1814,)  the  camp  of  general  Riall,  near  Chip- 
pewa, was  put  in  commotion  by  the  approach  of 
general  Scott,  and  after  him,  general  Brown  with 
the  remainder  of  the  American  army.  Without 
waiting  for  the  attack,  Riall  assembled  his  forces 
and  met  them  upon  the  plain  of  Chippewa.  His 
Dumber  was  four  thousand ;  the  American  troops 
were  fewer,  but  they  w^re  resolute  enterprizing 
freemen.  The  engagement  became  general  about 
five  o'clpck  in  the  afternoon,    With  the  utmost 


'.%{  i^ 


PEDESTRIAN    TdUR.  ^3^ 

rieMea  to  j::'Zz::z:^'::''^- 

body,  however,  advanced,  and  wuhH  "" 
valour,  closed  with  their  adverLl  i„  "P"""^ 
sanguinarv  conflict     Th«  i,  ..1  "  *  "">st 

bloody,  an'd  or:;::;  dintiorrti  "^^^^  ""«• 

o'-e  hour,  eight  hundred  men  lav  b.^!."""'^  "' 
the  ground.  At  length  the  Bri^  k  ^"^  "P"" 
P'^lled  to  fall  back     Tfc  '  '""  "^■'^  <^0"n- 

^  be  town,  wtn  thef^^^rc'^'r'^  '°"°''^<' 
entre„chments.andthe^Serica7h'r' '"""*' 
-tory  upon  the  plain  of  C Swa      "  "'''^'' 

R<all  retreated  to  the  borders  on  1  ^     ' 
and  Brown  advanced  to  Q^erston  ll"".*"""' 
s'gn  of  capturing  Forts  rl'    /*  *«  ''«- 
Th«,ughthei„dispoSom?'  ""^  ^'"^"^ 

^ear^y^tu^XS™;::''^?"^^^^^^^^^ 

With  the  intention  of  dividino-  »».    a 
forces,  and  brineineon  a  K,«.    1  *^  American 

Riall.  marched  tS^  N^f ''?'"'""'»'"«' «»<! 
1814)  with  a  CXLT'I^'''''  '^"'^  «^«' 
-de  preparations  f^/^LltV^"'""'' 
FortSchlosher.    To  prevent  tv»        ""'^  "' 
general  Scott  to  pCZ„t\-T''  ""^''"^ 
»ardsthe  strong  po^'?  v'^""*  '•"g'^e.  to. 
«ear  the  Grand  W'Th"^""  '"''^  "^  '"ten 
afternoon.    General  Sr^    ''"' ''°"" '"'«  '»  *« 
encountered,  in  S'£ofTal''"r'^'  "»<' 
«»°non.   the  principaT  st°eni^',\''''««'->'  «>f 

^ffl^    The  desperate  a„H^     °'  **  »'"'«'« 
esperate  and  unequal  contest  was 


I    : 


■I       •  • 


ff  '''*•' 


i; 


t; 


■  ■■ 


^      i./f-| 


1^' 


wm. 


140 


PBDBSTRIAN   TOUR. 


about  to  terminate  in  the  overthrow  of  this  bri- 
gade, when  Brown  advanced,  giving  orders  for 
the  second  brigade  and  the  volunteers  to  follow. 
The  firing  ceased.    Rial!  waited  for  the  approach 
of  reinforcements,  before  he  renewed  the  attack. 
The  shades  of  evening  descended,  whilst    the 
hollow  roar  of  Niagara  was  again  distinguishable 
above  the  tremendous  tumult  of  the  engagement. 
The  greatest  battle  of  the  whole  frontier  was 
now  about  to  be  fought,  and  terrible  indeed  was 
the  onset    As  the  moon  looked  down  with  dim 
splendour  upon  the  fight,  and  as  the  earth  trem- 
bled with  the  weight  of  ithe  adjacent  cataract, 
which  displayed  its  horrors  with  more  frightful 
aspect  than  ever,  the  two  armies  met  and  min- 
gled in  the  midst  of  smoke,  fire,  and  whistling 
bullets,  upon  the  lofty  brow  of  the  Niagara. 
Thrice  the  impetuous  ranks  recoiled  from  each 
other,  and  thrice  they  rushed  with  increased  fury, 
into  the  deadly  conflict     Another  pause  en- 
sued, which  was  disturbed  only  by  the  groans 
of  wounded  soldiers. 

Adjacent  to  a  place  called  Lundy's  Lane,  was 
a  commanding  eminence,  unon  which  the  Bri- 
tish had  stationed  nine  pieces  of  brass  artillery. 
Against  this  colonel  Miller  had  advanced,  un- 
daunted by  the  fiery  torrent  that  opposed  him, 
and  suddenly  rushing  up  the  eminence,  had 
borne  down  the  dismayed  possessors,  and  made 
the  battery  his  own. 

When  the  British  advanced  a  third  time  to  the 
contest,  this  battery  scattered  destruction  among 
their  ranks.    They  met  the  extended  lines  of  the 


X*£DESTR1.VN    TOUR. 


141 


\  for 
How. 
'oach 
tack, 
the 
hable 
ment. 
r  was 
d  was 
1  dim 
trem- 
taract, 
ightful 
d  min- 
listling 

iagar^* 
each 
dfury, 
se  en- 
groans 

le,  was 
le  Bri- 
^tiUe^y. 
fd,  un- 

him, 
bad 

made 

to  the 

I  among 

of  the 


Americans  with  extraordinary  firmness,  inspired 
with  the  desire  of  retrieving  the  lost  honour  of 
the  preceding  onsets,  and  of  recovering  their  can- 
non. The  right  and  left  wing  of  the  Americans, 
repeatedly  fell  back  from  such  cool  intrepi<lity, 
but  were  quickly  rallied  by  their  leaders.  Upon 
the  ridgy  summit  of  the  eminence,  the  hostile 
parties  closed  with  a  deafening  clash.  Swords  and 
crimson  bayonets  flourished  in  the  dull  light  of 
the  moon.  The  air  was  rent  wjth  the  encou- 
raging exclamations  of  commanders,  and  the 
piercing  cries  of  dying  men.  Either  line  was  in- 
dented by  receding  or  conquering  portions.  A 
rampart  of  human  bodies  rose  round  the  battery, 
which  became  the  centre,  and  hottest  portion  of 
the  engagement.  No  longer  able  to  withstand  the 
sanguinary  valour  of  their  foes,  the  British  army 
fled,  till  they  were  beyond  the  reach  of  the  balls  of 
the  victorious  Americans.  These  undoubtedly 
deserved  the  glory  of  a  victory,  although  the  late- 
ness of  the  hour  induced  them  to  retire  to  their 
camp,  and  allowed  the  British  who  returned,  to 
declare  themselves  masters  of  the  field.  Battle 
was  offered  the  next  morning,  which  they  de- 
clined ;  and  weakened  eA^remely  by  this  hard 
fought  engagement,  they  retreated  to  Fort  Erie, 
where  they  fortified  themselves  until  the  peace. 
(17th.  Peb.  1815.)  In  the  intervening  time, 
they  made  several  successful  sorties  from  Fort 
Erie,  and  defended  themselves  with  the  greatest 
bravery,  against  the  whole  combined  forces  of 
the  British,  which  the  fall  of  Ni^oleon  had 
brought  over  to  Canadar  ; 


^  J 


1    I 


m% 


i 

1 


t  . 


142 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUB. 


\ 


A 


I  ••  ■' , 


^ 


When  we  survey  this  frontier  contest,  we  shall 
perceive  it  to  be  characterized  by  a  very  pecu- 
liar mode  of  warfare.  Stratagem,  ambuscade, 
massacre,  and  devastation,  were  prominent  from 
the  beginning.  Tlie  worst  circumstances  should 
be  ascribed  to  the  Indians,  whose  tempers  in 
war  are  most  diabolical,  and  to  whose  assis« 
tance  Canada  was  particularly,  obliged  to 
resort,  preparatory  to  the  expected  overwhel- 
ming powers  of  the  United  States. 

The  savages,  said  captain  S— e,  are  a  bloody 
and  in  reality,  a  cowardly  race.  They  will 
stand  aloof  whilst  victory  wavers,  and  wherever 
sure  conquests  points,  thither  they  will  rush 
with  yells  and  horrible  whoops,  levelling  with 
the  dreadful  tomahawk,  all  ranks,  ages,  and 
distinctions.  It  is  a  matter  of  high  regret,  that 
they  were  at  all  permitted  to  enlist  under  the 
standards  of  either  government.  Yet  the  civ- 
ilized Indians  of  the  Six  Nations,  proved  them- 
selves capable  of  refraining  from  scalping,  from 
pillage  and  from  massacre :  and  many  of  our 
red  allies,  especially  those  under  Tecumseh, 
acted  upon  the  best  principles  of  enlightened 
warfare.  As  a  fact,  it  may  be  laid  down  that 
the  American  militia  in  the  late  war,  would 
rather  have  coped  with  double  their  force  of 
English  invincibles,  than  with  inferior  numbers 
•f  the  unmerciful  savages. 


I    remained  at  Queenston,  a  week,  and  du- 
ring  that  period,  rode  frequently  to  different 


:-     >f 


>  shall 
pecu- 
scade, 
tfrom 
should 
ers  in 
I  assis- 
ged  to 
erwhel- 

i  bloody 
\ey  will 
vherever 
rill  rush 
ing  with 
res,   and 
rret,  that 
nder  the 
the  civ- 
ed  them- 
ng,  from 
of  our 
cumseh, 
ightened 
wn  that 
would 
force  of 
numbers 


I 


Hi 


•   ;l        ••      ' 


|.S*' 


i»-i/ 


and  du- 
different 


pa 
loi 


■i' 


!• 


PfiBESTRiAN   TOim. 


cursions  on  foot  to  theliitu      u      ''  '*''"^'  «*■ 

»^  note,  on  both  sides  ^  ^^  kI^  """ 
agara.  ^"®  straights  of  Nj, 

•--tX'^^i;?"^  "''-*«  American 
or  Fort  :«a  J  aThi  h T'!.'"'^    "^"^  -»*" 

^^.p-entLt'^l^tr^-r-'^ 

received  of  late  considp«.I.     *    ^''"'^rk.  have 
?»'•«•    Its  streng?      si"!/^'''"<>"«  and  re- 
feacher^  could  ^change  ."M;"'  "'""'"S   ""^ 
»<"•«  the  appea„.nce  .^  a  Itron '?T    ''  "^^ 
i*  common  modern  fort     Th   ^   ?"^-  """n  of 
valuable  fortress,  was  ^ilf  K   !u  ^^'^''""^  »nd 
*e  year  ,725.    lIiS  ^""=  ^'•^"<='' a^out 
English,  and  delivered  bvth ""'/"''"  ""^  *e 
States  in  1796.    Durb.  th   I  !?  *°  *«  United 
(J8.2)  a  heavy  c"nZll        "'"  ^^ Q-^ension 

"from  the  ol^Si'V-T''"'''^'''"^ 
"'h  such  intent  that  1  k '"'  ""^  ^"^'"rned 
7amo,eth,„„„*«'/      houses  in   N,.,,, 

fc  day.  two  thousand  red  hot  .  ?,*  '•"'^«°'" 
^"ndred  and  eightv  «h»M     "''"'*"«  and  one 
fort  Niaga,.  b/S  Sh  ""''!  '"^"-n  upon 
"""Wings  about^he  ^;r'  '      '"'"'   °^  *e 

^-^--he.  Of  sjtJt-rs 


'^k^i 


> 


'T  / 


l!->'  r 


144 


B£DESTRIAN   TOUlt. 


'*:h'^    'V       *     *     *   '  .    •■'••A-  •    .*,:',    ■• 


♦?■',•'•■.**'      '  t  'J      ■■»^^ 


♦^'       J  ■.     ■    ■  ■^-  f 


CHAPTER  VI. 


•r 


THROUGH   UPPER   CANADA   TO   MONTREAL. 


Thursday,  September  27,  1821. 


-(,      i>V 


■^^(^'   *■ 


H< 


I . 


Sir  Peregrine  Maitland,  Governor  of  Uppei 
Canada,  arrived  at  Niagara  on  Wednesday  (Sept. 
26th,)  from  York  the  capital  of  the  province,  for 
the  purpose  of  reviewing  the  garrison  of  Fort 
George.  Taking  leave  of  my  courteous  friend 
at  Queenston,  and  his  hospitable  family,  I  re- 
paired to  Newark,  and  engaged  a  passage  for 
Kingston  in  the  British  steam-boat  Frontenac* 

The  troops  were  assembled  in  beautiful  array 
on  Thursday,  upon  the  vast  plain  mentioned  in 
the  former  chapter,  and  after  performing  all  their 
military  evolutions,  firing  vollies,  skirmishing 
and  retreating,  were  dismissed ;  and  the  Gover- 
nor and  suit  embarked.  Our  passage  along  the 
American  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  was  remarka- 
bly pleasant.  The  white  bulwarks  of  Fort 
Niagara  died  gradually  away,  and  left  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  low  unvariegated  coast.    Night 


!i|"i« 


*  Frontenac,  now  Kingston,  was  one  of  the  earliest  French  forU 
upon  Lake  Ontario.— Ontario  has  been  called  JLake  Frontenac. 


The  length  of  Lake  n„/      • 
•'"d  seventy. one  „ ;  ."^^^  ^"'='"<'  '"  one  hund^d 

«%-nineanda  half  .%r         ?'*"'*'"  '"««'& 
f^"  into  it,  are  the  G  J    ''"""P'"  "^^^ '^Wch 

Black  Ri^er,  ol  t£  "oX'  *?  ^-^^o.  and 
"iver  Trent  ;„  the  „oX     "  ^'''^■'  ""^  'he 
"«  ="'  at  the  eastern  e«'nV°''-    '**  '"""^s 
'°^  in  some  partea^dn'^'   "'*  ^''"'•^  are 
"f  ersa.,,  re,'.l.1  X^^^^^^  »"'-.  "nt  are 
il'e  medium  depth  of  th!  ^°'"'  '•arbours.   " 

ft«>o»s;  but  i„'^o„:' t  ;7'.-  -  eight,-two 
J-ate  events,  as  well  as  fL  .!  '*  ""'athomable. 
'"e  French  and  Troiuoifna?  '°"*"*^  "^'^^'^ 
"""'t  of  iU  bordeiTb,  ?"*•  '^''°  occupied 

-d  Its  shoreHndil'^^^^  ^"^^  OntarS 
''^  viewed  without  somet^T  ''''''''  ^•'«»« 
Tl>e  Governor  ,  °"       «'"^t. 

'»-.  appeared  Xirand""  ''"'"*^'-»*«» 
"'"«"-«•  That  AauT^  ^^  '""^  "«■*'"«  «  ''i* 
i'^nglish,  and  that  lofty  fam if  "''"l''^^^  ^^  *« 
"<""'i'r.  exist  no  morf  T'  ^.'""^'r  °°^  ">«'• 
J"%  requisite  to  a  pel,^"'  ,'^''"  ''''«'  ''^  ' 
''onourable  station.  "'  '""  ^h  and 

Nothing  but  the  sky  anrl  , 
of  water  was  to  be  seen  ill  *""'°""d<ng  sheet 
^fe'vdull  pointeof tnH  '"°™'"^'  a' length 
*'>ichbrighfe„e?mtt^»„,r'  «l-«nguishabt 
-e»ed  intogreenTo^;";,nrr'''''"^*''''^' 
"'<'entations,  and  discovS^  r'°"*''  ■""* 
»c».    ,  °  *^'"*«'''«tobethe 

13 


i'i'J 


'      -''■!    J" 

'    ....  1     *  ■  I  f 


i^'whi 


;  ii 


i4() 


PEDEslRIAN    TOUK. 


■   i'!;.'^ 


4' 


.    |i'^ 

:li^^' 


" 

■I 

f 

I 


\¥%S  1 


south-east  coast  of  Prince  Edward's  and  the  n  u- 
merous  islands  in  the  straights  or  outlet  of  On- 
tario.   Prince  Edward's  bay,  and  the  commence- 
ment of  the  bay  of  Quinty,*  the  wealthiest  and 
best  inhabited  parts  of  Upper  Canada,  expanded 
broad  on  one  hand,  with  their  banks  covered 
with  farm  houses,  and  sail  boats  scudding  across 
their  waters ;  Galus  Island,  at  the  entrance  of 
Sackett's  Harbour,   Grenadier  Island,   the  ren- 
dezvous of  the  American  army  under  general 
Wilkinson,  in  the  expedition  of  October  1813. 
and  the  Grand  Isle  occupying  the  entrance  of 
the  Cataraqui  or  St.  Lawrence's  receded  slowly 
on  our    right,  with  the    wild    native    Indians 
in  canoes,  fishing  for  subsistence  about  their 
shores;  whilst  the  beacon  to  which  our  prow 
was  directed,  the  populous  streets  and  extensive 
barracks  of  Kingston,  spread  with  extraordinary 
splendour  upon  both  sides  of  an  inlet,   notable 
at  a  great  distance,  by  the  weather  worn  skele- 
tons of  two  mammoth  ships  of  the  line,  rising  pre- 
eminent above  the  highest  buildings  of  the  town. 
There  is  an  appearance  of  military  strength 
always  about  a  British  town  of  importance,  that 
casts  over  it  an  aspect  of  stern  grandeur,  which 
we  will  look  for  in  vain,  in  a  town  of  the  United 
States.      The  east  side  of  Kingston    harbour^ 
consists  of   fortifications  ;    and   perspicuously 
situated  upon  the  top  of  the  hill,  a  row  of  superb 
buildings  capable  of  accomodating  many  thou- 
gand  |roops.    The  two  great  ships  of  the  line, 

*  Pronouncf/d  Cantee. 


mmence- 


upon  the  same  sirlo  _       .  . 
-daio„.„„J:t-:-efti^*e.>„„r.„i.Hed 
""e  peace  was  conclu^^A    ^"^'  ^  *°°n  «« 
opposite  side  are  ZVoul  '"r  ?''•    ^P""  *e 

-<«  'he  high  warn  rt'Sj^r'^^-d  boats! 
fr^'-niDg  with  archways  and  tl^"  ^"'^  "^^  ««» 
of  soldiers  glittering  Tn  th^       '"•  ^  ''»*'««on 
playing,  were  standi:^"  un    T  ""''  ""»«<=«« 
F'-ontenac  entered  the^ft"  *'  '""'^'"  >»»  «•« 
passenger,  the  docks  we-         "i '"'*  ''«'  "obfe 
'-eager  to  see  t^   gl^^^^S  "^  "^""P"' 
.  Kingston,  once  the  caDhTi   f  rr    ^"  ''""'''noe- 
f'"»ded  upon  a  rockyEk   h,'*'^''  ^'"""''•' « 
%erof  earth  upon  the  s«i       ^"^  "  ^^""^  "^in 
""0  ^n,e  tin,ea  soHd  foundt'''  '""  """'"'"e  at 
»»d  excellent  stone  for  build    °"  '"  *"  '«"'»«'. 
"evertheless  compoS^'S^ '':  /"^'^--i^ 
structures.    The  streets^.         .    '""  ''"oden 

^^'ing  handsome.  and1i?re^iy'*'"»«'»'<^- 
'arge  European  village  xt"  IT!"  P*"°»  ^^  • 
computed  at  about  four  f  h       '"'^'"tants  may  be 

%1'sh.     Both  the  c,       '*'"'''  *"*•  •'•«  •»<«% 
-^e-Vork.  and  tte  hIIT'  "'  "•«  ^tate  of 

*gstoadolla7.lSf";  '"""^^  °'  «ve 
Instead  of  emh-  .     "  ""^"e. 

,  -<«  -«ParaSyT/proLbr '  "''«'''«-. 
«cending  the  St.  £aw S  '  i^,  '"^'''od  of  de. 

h^ded  on  footalonrrr^°"'«a'.  I  pro- 
fi«t  t^versed  a  rockf  t  "'"^""'  *''°^«'  and 
""Wctof  twentyS'mtif  ""'""'"'''«' 


;  i«;i 


.  ♦(  .: 


k;-;;; 


f'^*f- 


:1 


\'' 


'■    ■»., 


%  -4 


Iw 


1^  •it:'!  „;: 


'^    ^ 


148 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


lettlement,  designated  by  a  block  house  and  de- 
nominated Gananoque.  From  this  place,  spreads 
in  full  view  the  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands. 
The  St.  Lawrence  is  here  four  miles  wide,  deep 
and  without  rapids. 

3  A  ridge  of  irregular  land  about  twenty  miles 
in  breadth,  appears  to  have  intersected  the  St. 
Lawrence  at  the  Thousand  Islands ;  as  the  land 
through  which  I  passed  on  the  Canadian  side, 
was  convulsed  in  all  the  wildness  of  nature ; 
huge  cliffs  and  disjointed  fragments  exposing 
their  ba^re  bush-topped  faces,  in  the  liveliest 
rose-red  and  almost  scarlet  colours.  Through 
this  disjointed  and  broken  ridge,  the  outlet  of 
Ontario  has  worn  its  course,  amongst  chasms, 
clefts  and  fissures,  and  left  projecting  above  its 
surface  innumerable  high  rugged  rocks,  and  ex- 
tremely solitary  and  romantic  islands.  Some  of 
them  are  large,  elevated,  and  covered  with  pine 
trees  ;  the  most  are  lofty  masses  of  rock,  through 
the  intricate  mazes  of  which,  vessels  with  diffi- 
culty wind  their  devious  course. 

I  receded  again  from  the  shore,  and  penetra-f 
ted  another  hideous  and  exceedingly  rugged  wil- 
derness, in  which  I  met  a  great  many  Indians 
who  still  inhabit  occasionally  the  untenantable,.] 
wood  between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  great 
river  Ottawa.    I  endeavoured  to  converse  with 
some  by  signs:    but  the  state  of  affairs  were, 
changed;    the  red  warriors  shook  their  heads, 
and  hurried   quickly  away  from  the  presence! 
of  the  white  man.  Within  fifteen  miles  of  Brock* 


ty-eig] 

paddJi 

now  ti 

coachc 

feasts 

biies. 

Broci 

ated  vi 

on  both 

this  as  fi 

^nd  maj 

|Xake  th 

had  left  I 

^he  help 


;i^ 


.;    5 


''•"e,  the  soil  K  ^^* 

;»«on  begins  to  eS  'T  T'^'  "'"»  -'«- 
fort*  of  civilized  iffe  '     •"'  ''^'""'■^»  ''"d  con,- 

smoothly  by,    .naJ^ZhS  "*'"*"•"  «°-» 
='«»red  spot,  and  capacL  ^r    "P""'""    ^^"^^ 
";««  'he  presence  of  Ar''"'-''°"*«*  «»«'> 
American  shore  is  no  tZT^,""^''^    The 
B"f«h.    Our  attentl  i,       '"""  »'"'«d  "s  the 
d'^ricts,  and  the^ilf  ^»  '<"«ore  i„,a„d  . 
•^tt'ed  over  the  cZ^'T  "'"  "«'^«  «Jually 
f  o.  stretching  therntiL     "  **  ^"""'l''-"* 
'"«  "Vers,  ieafe  the  rT  hlt"^  ""'  '«""'*  "f 
--occupied.     Emi  '  "f  i'""''  grounds  entirel^r 

«:«-•.  are  rapidly  ex  "'nV'".  ^"'"P^'    ^oj. 
*e  -ore  remVpoSJ  »f  tt""^'''^"'  ^^ 
*'«  compa„,tivei/pop°,ous  ;         '**"""y'  *»<> 
^-e'ght  years  ago-    hi,  ?'^.""''  "'h'ch  thir- 

poddies  of  the  fur  tr^de™  °"'^  ""^  'P'^hing 
"o-  trembles  under  the"  rT""^"*  «'-«»»3! 
-aches,  and  resou'dXl't      T"^  ''''^«- 

jr,-ndga.esandth::xt:f7Jt;LLr 

BrockviJie  is  a  wpFI  k    i. 
a'ed  village.    The  Ik    «"";?•  P!^'«*»%«t«- 
on  both  sides  of  the  St  I  ^'^'^  ""d  '^uiar 

*'«  a«  far  as  PresTot    -,!;?"?•  ^'"'^''  ^elo" 
,  ?»*  -ay  be  conS^'T  '  ''^''  ""•*  "''^"^ 
fafc^  than  a  river.    The   sT'*  t"  '"'"'  "^  »»« 
had  left  at  JCinminn  J        steamboat    which  I 

'''-'■e.pofSrnTwTrS''''""^''^'''* 

^  IK 


>s 


I: 


i  ]■ 

>       t 

» 

; 

T 

t 

. 

1  *'' 

\ 

|;i[: 

\ 

li 

150 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUK* 


1t 


k 


I     t 


I! 


IP' 

1*    ■  , 


it 


i''l 


surface;  and  here  and  there  woody  islands 
made  the  channel  double,  which  I  per- 
ceived obscurely  through  the  fog  and  incessant 
showers  of  rain. 

Prostrate  upon  the  road  where  it  transected  a 
solitary  woods  towards  Prescot,  a  soldier 
lay  extended,  and  the  favourite  companion 
of  many  a  toilsome^lay,  of  many  a  woeful  night, 
the  well  stocked  canteen  of  whiskey  was  fallen 
bottom  upwards  at  a  distance,  with  the  precious 
liquor  filtering  through  the  spout  in  a  manner 
pitiful  to  relate.  I  took  the  liberty  of  dragging 
the  fallen  hero  out  of  the  path,  and  of  emptying 
his  canteen  of  whiskey  in  a  peculiar  and  expe- 
ditious style. 

Prescot  is  a  thriving  place.  The  taverns  were 
extremely  crowded ;  and  here  it  happened  for 
the  first  time,  that  accommodations  were  refused 
me,  at  a  crowded  paltry  tavern,  which  in  the 
darkness  of  the  night,  I  had  entered :  this  I  as- 
cribed to  the  little  benevolence,  British  subjects 
of  the  lower  orders,  evince  towards  pedestrians. 
The  steamboat  Hotel,  which  has  a  beautiful 
terrace  towards  the  water,  offered  me  every- 
thing that  was  comfortable  and  accommo- 
dating. Opposite  this  village  at  the  outlet  of 
Black  Lake,  lies  Ogdensburgh,  its  rival  in  bu- 
siness and  population.  Both  are  villages  of  I 
sudden  growth,  and  both  are  filled  with  large  [ 
stores,  were,  to  use  the  language  of  my  infor- 
mant, cash  is  received  as  fast  as  it  can^be  drop* 
ped  into  the  money  drawers. 


Fort  Prevost  atn  a 

fr^t.  and  three  ^LV^k  """"*"=«  »«« 
«"e.l  Johnston,  whic"  L  f"*"  '^  "  -'"age 
a"  Indian  cas.le.  UisZ^,  """^  "■«  ««««  of 
7'  demolished.  It  !«  ,  "!  "  ""'•  "='""« 
of'ogs  and  earth  raised  to  I """"""""».  a  fabric 
haWngoneach  side  of  V  """"^^'^We  height, 
resembling  a  wolf  terr.hiJ^     *"'"""=«  "n  imaee 

'r  constructed  on  Z too        '""^'  ""l  ^""O"- 
>vatch.tower.  *°P'  "  ">«  of  beacon  or 

■n«^tn  S3S  "f  P~e;as  such,  as  to 

^-"hin  the  jurisdictLorr^    '"   "'"^'^^  «ven 
I«as  not  surprised  r,/^'  """«  "^ 'Vew-York, 
f-dom.  here!  in  1:  dollirr  "'"^"^'^ 
SO  to  extremes  both  in  n  T         "P^^'P'e  who 
Situated  however  so  nel^thf  '"'  '"  "•""'"t^- 
of  •'.em  originali;  fXh    ,^'"""''  *"'*'»'"J 
■nanners  are  somewhTtTilct     ;''**  ^'^'''''  '"eir 
^q-lit,   and    contemjrird  :'*^'"^''-°   * 
respectable  looki„g,a„/'f  "If' "ctions.     A 

P«'ence  of  his  figird^mon  [*!  ^''■'■<''»'''«^^°'-- 
'"ocess  of  his  an1.ual  crops  r''  T"""-'^  '^- 
converse,  was  so  very  inZ  "^  *^'''P°^  to 

'hedoor  of  hismansTo  "ti;"'^  '°  "''•''  ^'"O'" 
»cendi„g  smile.  ,o  bid  me  J^t  ""^'  ^°'"'«- 
fecord  this  as  one  of  fh?  ^^  """•''O"'-  I 
tri Wal.  which  are  Lnl  ^\'^'='"^'"^.  although 

-d  opinions  pi^^rrar::^*^"'-^^' 

•I'ans.    Retumins  his  .»7?f-       ^PP*""  ^ana- 

-i'houtpreamble  Jtrr't?'  '^  '"•"'-<•      - 

was  going,  and  re- 


I!-:      -^ 


111. 

i 


^ 


>' 


H 


■'   li 


152 


VEDfiSTBIAN    TOUR. 


marked   on  the  fatigue  of  travelling  on  foot 

"  You  are  looking  out  for  land,  I  should  rather 

guess,  sir;  if  you  are,  you  will  find   very  good 

and  cheap  land  about  here. — Ar*nt  you  from  thr 

other  side  ?"  • 

Yes,  from  the  Slates. 

"  So,  so ;  a  man,  that  lives  'n  the  house  back 
yonder,  came  over  amongst  us,  only  a  few  years 
ago,  bought  a  good  farm  for  only  five  shillings  an 
acre,  married  one  S — n*s  eldest  daughter,  and  now 
lives  as  well  as  any  man  ;  and  says  he  would'nt 
travel  as  much  again  as  he  did  then,  not  for  a 
township." 

Are  you  an  Englishman  ? 

"  No,  I  came  from  Pennsylvania ;  why  there's 
nothing  but  Americans  round  this  part ;  and  I 
will  tell  you  how  this  happened.  As  soon  as  Eng- 
land, to  keep  up  appearances,,  had  pretended  long 
enough  to  keep  down  the  rebels,  and  agreed  to 
let  them  have  what  they  called  independence — 
(there  is  no  harm  you  know,  to  speak    one's 

mind.)—" 

€ro  on. 

"  Well,  as  soon  as  England,  caring  only  for  the 
trade  of  the  United  States,  got  them  completely  | 
off  their  hands,  there  was  no  longer  any  possibil- 
ity  of  living  under  the  poor  ill-made  constitu- 
tion, which  was  immediately  bundled  up  there,] 
and  so  came  the  loyalists,  and  I  along  with  themi 
to  Canada,  and  procured  as  fine  ground  as  you| 
could  wish  to  see,  for  the  mere  asking  it  of  the 
governor."  - ; 


"7"W  "and  .bour,  Sl"V  "^r  '"^^  ••  -he 
'"'^  °'  on  that,  when  th.  °;  "•""»«  °»  this 
r:,'  ••«  e'ven  Z7y  ^'' '""  y^"'  Profits 
f-l-d'y  a  trifle  to  give  L^k       **■     ^*  "aV„t 

S'^'^P'  '""^  no  d  ;;?'""'*  P'^"'^  «f  *ve7 

'"«S:r  altho': S^X  r^  '■«'«   ana  have 
ters.  ^     'i"^^,"'«  not  their  own  was.   " 

''How?"  .       :" 

what  is   vnii, 

^--n  of  goveC„tT""'"'"»»  "^  o-  republican 

^ne  constitution  is  I  thrnt/- 
from  that  of  England  ;t     '^'"  "'^'P^".  copied 
absurdities  along  ^JhTt     p"  ^''''  '»'"^  ft>oliA 
-e  '  as  men  of  proper^  '    d^^'^""^  ^»'«  « 

*«Peopie  to  the  southward  T/"''  '"'^''^^  «>' 
,  "S  to  the  number  of  tS'>''  ""'^  accord- 
,  °  hear  shortly  of   bl^^^''-    ^e  expect 
?over„o„.    One  cannot^t  r^'   """""^   "»<» 

'« /should  hold  out  si  llr   r  "'°"^''' "■«' 
J»nglmgs,  factions  and  pLt  ^'  ''''^'«  'continual 
^«•  of  interested  pennyless  1'  ''V"''^  ""  by  a 

"■en  another,  and  illn' ""'""^  "P.  »nd 
•'one  by  the  former    th.K     "''"  ""  'hat  was 
K-inst  itself can^sta^,^'•7«  ""**•'  '^'-'^^  ^ 
h'e:  they  will  have  their  t     ^  '""  «««  sepa- 
I/heU„itedStaeX'"^«°on,Iamsure^ 
B^he'r  forces  ««  fe  J  ^;'"^  '''•«  and  compact. 

-''r'^e  th.ne  of  yourtn^^it:  ''''''-' 


[I 
I 


r1 


II.  )  I 


1   1 


11         '      ' 


h,. 


if 

'■    I' 

■  I'     »- 


164 


PEDESTRIAN    TOVK. 


it 


A  ridiculous  war  thai !  They  began  to'attuck 
Canada  at  Detroit,  like  the  bear  that  comes  down 
a  tree  backwards  without  knowing  of  traps  at 
the  bottom.  And  if  they  should  take  Canada, 
a  deal  of  good  it  would  do  them ;  ha  !'* 

As  much  service  as  it  does  your  politic  mas- 
ters beyond  the  ocean,  who  send  six  thousand 
of  their  best  troops  to  protect  and  keep  it  in  sub- 
jectioD.  :    .^ 

"  Yes,  yes ;  but  you  know  the  trade  the  British 
carry  on,  would  be  of  no  value  to  the  States. 
But  the  Americans  have  some  reason  to  look  out 
along  the  frontiers ;  for  it  will  be  no  bard  matter 
for  us  to  conquer  them  all,  in  another  war.  We 
could  have  done  it  last  war;  but  just  then  Na- 
poleon Bonaparte  was  strongest  against  us, 
whom  the  Americans  meanly  and  cowardly 
joined  to  try  if  both  together  could  get  Old  Eng- 
land under.  Good  lack !  they  wanted  peace, 
quick  enough  when  Bonaparte  was  down." 
.  But  did  you  not  say  the  United  States  were 
an  encumbrance  before  the  Revolution  ? 

"  Yes,  at  that  time,  sartain  ;  many  times  we 
let  your  army  escape  and  seem  to  get  the  better, 
when  we  might        " 

-4  It  grows  late ;  I  wish  you  a  good  morning 
sir :  you  are  more  than  a  staunch  loyal  subject,  I 
perceive  sir ;  and  came  from  the  States  with  the 
good  will  of  the  republicans,  there  is  not  the 
least  doubt. 

This  is  a  correct  view  of  the  strong  dislike  j 
which  hundreds,  and  especially  those  renegade 


w^ere  sc 
istic  fea 
nients  f 
seen,  f 
distinct] 

Proce 
[battle  gr 

America 
Jtion  of  J 

hfuiiboats 
J  turned  i 
(of  three  ] 
'^"gageme 
t>»nedimj 
poops  for 


Americans  rag  n,  ^^ 

Thi'o    *'*'*"'»«'»  ^''"'""='«'•  of  our 

^eiocuy  upon  the  n^UtcZl'J  "^  "'"'  ««« 
'»P  Wands;  and  of  ..»?  '  ""°"S  "'"  Ga/. 
^««  India  prodl"    «!„  7"  '^^"  «"«<»  "iA 

Pf«nch  Canadians.  Ifl  r^ft  /"'"'  °'"  «»« 
-t'ousi,  descending  tS:,"'^^:;^  ''""''  -^-^ 
">e  roads  were  fil|ed%vit,?f  u'  '""P'''''  ""d 
'"S  raAs«e„,  both  on  fZL7r  °^  '^'"^n- 
f  families  of  Scotch  a^d  r  .  ^°"*'"'^'''  ""d 
«d  attained  this  d  a^fi^V'"*'^"'''^'  '^h" 
■''^^-    Neat  and  sometiml  '^  P°"  °^  Q"e- 

-ere  scattered  upoHIe  bll.'"'^"'"'^''"'  ^'^'<^^. 
'»"^  feature  of  a  Brit Sf  c„  f' '""'  "*  '^'•"'•aoter- 
™«"'  for  brewing  e  ^  ''^  ''"'•"  '^""""h- 
«en-   Hamilton  an  L         "^^^^asiooall^  to  be 

He  ground!  ::SciLfs  rr:  "^^  "°"=<' 

American  forces,  i„  th?  ^''''  *'""•<'  "'e 

"»■'  of  ,8,3.  ,„„       rbefoTT''"'  '"P^"'^- 
f ""boats  and  artillery  of  7'  '"'"^^ed  by  ,he 
I'wned  upon   them  anH  Ir.        ^"^"'y-  "t  last 
[fa.re«hoursupon'thei'V^''-P  conflict     ^ 

hsagement,theVmerica"''r''-  ^"  ""is 
Hed impetuosity andbra"^"^^  *^'"  ''«"«- 
rP»  for  a  mile  before  th2*  ''"^'^'  '^^  ^"'"h 

«ore  them,  over  the  Wines 


.^1 
4- 


>'     (I 


f 

» 
,  1 

U           .:. 

(|, 

!■ 

, 

' 

1 

, 

. 

«.     i 

, 

.?! ; 

i-^^ 


i 


i-  ' 


I'f 


?' 


^' 


.',  , 


f:  i* 


5  hi 


,* 

'      r    ) 


160 


PEDESTRIAN     iOUK. 


and  fences  of  the  field  of  battle,  until  their  uui 
munition  being  expended,  Covington  appeared 
conspicuous  at  the  head  of  his  brigade,  advanc- 
ing to  their  support;  when  a  sharp  shooter 
leveled  his  piece  from  a  window  of  Chrystler's 
house,  and  the  brave  general  fell  dead  from  his 
horse.  Without  further  molestation,  the  army 
embarked  and  proceeded  down  the  river. 

At  Williamsburgh  people  of  the  most  adverse 
national  characters  appear  to  be  collected.  Dia- 
lects of  Scotch,  Irish,  English,  Low  and  High 
Datch,  and  the  language  of  Indians,  may  be 
heard  sometimes  from  one  station.  It  is  a  curi- 
ous picture  of  a  new  settled  country.  -  *       : 

At  night,  understanding  there  was  a  country 
ball  or  dance  in  the  neighbourhood,  I  obtained 
the  interest  of  a  person  at  the  inn,  to  get  admit- 
tance.   The  room  was   large,   in  a  respectable 
farm-house,   and   the    company  brilliant.     The 
scene   was   interesting  to  me,  on  account  of  its 
novelty.     A  venerable  grey-headed  fiddler  "  the 
bard  of  olden  times'*  kept   up  the  never-ceasing 
screaks  and  saws,   and  beat  time  with  his  riglii 
foot,  his  head  nodding  in   unison,  so  forcibly, 
that  the  glasses  of  the  sideboard,  may  be  said  to 
have   answered   the  place  of  a  cymbal.      The 
ladies,  not  at  all  deficient  in  beauty,  and  their 
faces  glowing  beneath  graceful  straw-hats  instead 
of  head-dresses,  and  the  gentlemen,  not  a  whit 
the  more  disliked  for  their  lofty  persons  audi 
heroic  broad  shoulders,,  acted  their  parts  witl 
engaging  ease^  simplicity  and  good  humour. 


l-MESTHlAw   TOUR.  , 

Water  mills  are  *>i»i. 
'r^/r^en.  eZ2;':Z'!'f  yarded,  or 
«<■  old  wind-mi,!,,  as  well  a«       """  '""""'"« 
operation,  are  to  be  seen  ,  ^  °"'' '"  «""al 

of  the  St.  Lawrence     pr^*''*  Canadian  shore 
'engthy  rapid,  tl>e  fmm^„H   "'  'f"^  ^""S  ^aut,  a 
^••eaten,  des truct  o„  !,  S"'  '"''''"'  °'  -''''='' 
'"-"ffh  it.  piers  o   dam,     e'  r*"  '"="  -"'-e 
beach,  part  of  .he  currm ..?  n""''''^  '"'""»  ">« 
-"r.  the  Wheels  of  "aw  a^d  :  '  r''*^'  "'"^ '"  '"is 
«>.    Even  here  they  are  1  ^ ""'"'  "'"^  '""'-  ' 
*«  'argest,  I  counted  1 1!  '  f'  "°""''  ^^  "^ 
o-^^,  with  bags  of  l^J'T  V  "^  ''^«''"'  ^"'J 
i"n.  to  be  served,  or  dri Wn         '"^  "'^'■'-  ''^-"ar 
.The  miller's  hous  .  which  ^fs'T  ^''appointed. 
'•>S  with  wines  rnL  *  "  ''"«'  brick  build 

~ch,  and  he  aiaST  1 '"'"^  ?<>'«»" 
'bO'^e  countrymen  inTr**  '°  "^^  -""rted  by 
"^ere  attending  i„  their  eouin'^""''  "'  ''^  """^'^^ 

r».neariy:;;:sT::r'"''^'----s. 

f'T  '-ne  of  the  vlZ^,"'  '^'""■<^*e  bound 

,,J'a'^>-ence.a„d^hereSt  r1  ""'"^^  "^e  St- 

P'^^d  Indians,  is  situated     o^";:  "'""?«  "^civi- 
Hd  of  a  small  boy  thf"  '■°''''  ^  '"q"'- 

K '  -hen  he  infi":,?  °'r  ^  ""j-'*  '" 
^^  pointing  to  a  glfml""',  J'"*  ^^^a*  earnest- 

f--"  an  illu,tr,ti„„  of^h?  "^T"'' '"'" '"'^'■ 
K-'-ted  in  themi„d3of  hect  ^.rP^^^^'O"" 

ot  the  Canadian  ch/Wren 


V'l:  ml  k 

'( .  >       .  ilHIi 


I    1 


I 


158 


PEDESTRIAN    TOtriE. 


i<:- 


I  :1.: 


M^ 


i. 


!A 


M 

"  ■  f 

_.  * 

i  ^ 

1 

■  7 

,11,! 


•■  :?■ 


11: 


Mt 


toward  Americans.  An  Indian  from  St.  Regis, 
clad  in  a  doublet  and  pantaloons  coarsely  manu- 
factured out  of  a  blanket,  was  paddling  along  in 
his  canoe,  as  I  advanced  on  the  bank  of  this  large 
and  extraordinary  river  :  the  tin  covered  spire  of 
that  village  glittered  over  the  hills,  bright  and 
dazzling  in  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  new  horse- 
boat  was  seen  descending  the  current  ;  but 
my  plans  would  not  permit  me  to  enter  on 
board  of  her,  as  she  stopped  at  a  point  to  put 
some  passengers  on  shore.  '    ''~^ 

Foaming  and  surging  downwards  with  great 
velocity,  the  impetuous  river,  after  making  the 
Kapid  Plat  and  Long  Saut,  suddenly  expands  in- 
to the  smooth  lake  St.  Francis,  twenty  miles  long, 
and  six  broad.  Lancaster,  a  scattered  hamlet  of 
Scotch  emigrants,  lies  in  sight  of  the  lake.  Here 
the  road  discontinues,  and  a  miry  foot  track  leads 
through  the  woods  and  marshes  around  St. 
Francis,  to  the  commencement  of  the  French 
-settlements.  I  met  the  native  lords  of  the  forest, 
shooting  water-fowl  on  the  meadows  with  great 
adroitness,  and  endeavoured  in  vain  to  converse 
with  them  by  gesticulations.  Two  families  were 
busily  employed  in  the  skirt  of  the  woods,  near 
the  water,  in  preparing  maize,  dressing  skins,  and 
manufacturing  useful  articles  from  flexible  wood 
and  barks.  They  had  turned  two  beautiful  birch- 
bark  canoes  bottom  upwards  upon  the  beach, 
in  order  to  dry  them  by  the  heat  of  the  sun. 
The  squaws  were  at  work,  but  the  men  were 
lolling  prostrate  upon  the  ground,  which  tothem,[ 


H 

*  The  te 

Canada. 


__^-i2l!?^     ^  --.."»■ 


159 


tobe  haystacks ;  until  1?^     V""^''  t^em 
found  them  to  be  Freth  ^T'^'  •"'"•^'  ^"'d 

one  story  elevated  high  1w.?k  ""'"' °^  ""'^ 
*«"  peaks,  a,)  of  Thet  '^^■-''""d.  with 
^"■anged  at  equal  distan'^  ''  "'"'"'   «»<» 

-ir.  tran.po^s  the   rteK;„'-   t^'^^^'^P* 
ous'y  into  a  new  region     I        ""^  "istantane- 

f-lc:::xtfheTasrf^'-^^^^^^^ 

En^land.  OnTuni::  st  ^  ^^^  ''-'^-  ^v,.. 
one  universal  mode  of  ac^h^^  T  ""'^"'''  °'*=*. 
sal  character,  prevail  f 't """""' °°^-""va--. 

vinceisente^d     iaZ        """"^"^  '"-^"-o- 
;een  within  half  a  mile  JaLTleTto  th  '*"'"'' ''  ^°  "« 
""margin  of  which,  the  road  i^      "'■■■  "'""S 
•■"cted  and  the  hou  es     '    f      ^-n^on'-V  con- 
"eatness  and  care  ml  ^L'""'""^'^-    Extreme 
rectangular  fields.  anT  hV?   """'""'''  *«  '""g 

-<»  -piements/^Des^S;"       "'"'''^'"^^ 
stamped  a  feature  of  r       .    '^'"^    *°    have 

I  Plodding,  unambitious  IZs^^'^'T  "P°"  "■« 
,/■"..  fe™  c.„.di.„  ,.      ^'^"''''y'  ""lose  ,nind. 


'nI:!^* 


■I 


i'^'  ■  '-, 


■ 


• '1 


\m 


i 


160 


PEDESTRIAN    TOVS* 


}■    ■ 


R  'I 


■:,   f. 


are,  moreover,  awed  into  superstition,  by  the 
displayed  crucifix  of  their  Catholic  priests ; — and 
as  the  American  journies  onward,  he  cannot 
refrain  from  exclaiming,  when  he  recollects  the 
freedom  and  joyous  enterprize  of  his  own  coun- 
try. How  different  is  this  from  the  United 
States ! 

At  the  Coteau  du  Lac,  where  there  are  strong 
fortifications  and  some  spacious  buildings,  I  was 
entertained  for  the  first  time,  in  a  French  inn.  Or- 
der and  the  greatest  cleanliness  are  observed  about 
the  rooms  and  decorations,  and  the  stranger  is 
immediately  considered  as  an  inmate  of  the 
family,  whose  agreeable  ease  and  pleasing  deport- 
ment would  indeed  make  him  so,  let  him  be  ever 
so  distant  and  overbearing.  ■     ,  .  ,. 

The  Cedres  is  a  place  of  considerable  com- 
pactness and  size ;  and  contains  a  very  magnificent 
Cathedral.  The  houses  are  stone,  and  the  streets, 
of  which  it  has  more  than  one,  are  extremely 
narrow.  Like  a  trans-Atlantic  village,  it  bears  a 
venerable  cast  of  antiquity. 

On  account  of  a  violent  breeze  from  the  north, 
it  was  impossible  to  obtain  a  passage  at  this 
place,  to  the  opposite  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Many  violent  rapids  interrupt  the  stream! 
between  lake  St.  Francis  and  its  confluence  with 
one  of  the  mouths  of  Ottawa  or  Grand  river;  buti 
at  the  Cascades,  where  several  inns  rather  thaD| 
private  dwellings,  are  collected  on  the  banks 
the  Ottawa,  I  procured  a  Canadian,  for  doubly 
price,  (67  cents)  to  ferry  me  in  a  mere  pine  tre 


^^"ESTRUK   TOP,. 

leg,  hollowed  and  sh,n.-i  • 

^^'-.h  one  oAtt^dCerr""'  ^'"^"^ 
St  Lawrence.    Over  the  GrL    '  ''P"''"'f'he 
of  MontreaJ.  it  is  ^^  f^^J'^*"''  ^er  to  the  Isle 
Lawrence  is  a  ™i,e  ^jj/^'' .7  .;•"=.  and  the  St. 
'"to  the  lake  of  St    T  . '         '!  ^^P'^n'J'  again 
-Pi''^  the  ascendt  ta.  ''^  '"^  ^"•°»'-" 
«hort  canals,  and  descend  ''^^^rawn   through 

;'.--  forced  to  J::iT!r  T''  "^  ^'"»- 

'"^'"••e.    The  fur-traders  »  /  ^^  '=""«  =°nve- 
north-western  Indians  that  ar!    ^'""  """"-ers  of  ' 
'»  Montreal,  instead  of  ntTr'"'"""^  «°«k'ng 
="'''  St  Lawrence  on  St"'^''"^^^'"' ''''^- 
"""nt  the  outlet  of  Lake  Ni„'^  '°  "''"  ^''r. 
7°««  a  few  miles  over  Taj  r^' ''~°'  H"ron 
;^^»cending    that    great    ri      "'\««''-a,  and 
I'et'veen  the  upper  anrl  I  "'^    boundary 

-arl,  one  hai?  of  t.^  1  ^r  P"--'--.  cut  off 
have  followed.  Comm  '  -^  '^°"''^  °^''erwise 
-n  the  forma.  J:ra'^S"r-  '"'^  '^"^«^^" 
"'"age  nine  mil...  fr„'     ,]  '  '^'°'"  ^a  Chine,  a 

™'^^.  one  mue  from  teitr'"'''"'*'^-'''^- 
I     %  hoary  Charon  with  h'L' 
I'erson  to  assis,.  tu^eed  k        ''""^'  '"''  """""-^ 

Kjapid.  .heLKioCfr"'''^'"''''''-^ 
dashmg  against  rocks  8^/1   '"'"^^^  "<■  "-e  river 

hy  of  the  wind,  rend  '      :  '"'"""'  "^^  'he 

Kt  perilous.     I    apnea  !h         "'"''"°»  ^"'"e- 

fnere  hollowed  log  shouir^  '^'"'"•'^'""e>  'hat  a 

["ous  water.    Gel  nrauit''      """^  '"^^  '"'»"'- 

kos-te  side,  and  accent  „:  tl"*  I  ""^^"^  ''^  *"« 

-  t^e  sake  of  expert  "n!  h^  tT  °'"  ^■«'"''' 

14  *  "S  the  nature  of  this 


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PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


r'  *■   •*•■ 


G  M 


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Canadian  vehicle,  rode  to  Chataugay,  among 
houses  of  a  grander  appearance  than  common : 
they  are  stone,  white-washed,  and  have  the 
threshold  of  the  door  elevated  seven  or  eight  feet 
above  the  ground.  -n^..^ 

Chataugay  is  a  populous  village,  scattered  on 
both  sides  of  the  Chataugay  river  near  its  disem- 
boguement.  By  the  name  however,  of  a  place 
like  this,  in  Canada,  is  properly  understood  a 
seigniory  or  certain  district,  in  which  the  chapel 
and  principal  inn  form  a  sort  of  nucleui.  A 
fme  stone  bridge  spans  across  the  stream,  and 
numbers  of  vessels  float  about  the  small  harbour. 
Brisk  life  and  industry,is  shown  conspicuous  by 
rolling  charrettes  and  calashes,  labouring  me- 
chanics, trafficing  Indians,  and  busily  occu- 
pied matrons  and  children,  who  seem  to  take  a 
pleasure  in  displaying  openly  their  domestic 
employments.  A  small  romantic  island  closely 
blocks  up  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  among  the 
tall  trees  that  waved  heavily  above  its  banks,  I 
Sf-w  wash-women  spreading  the  clothes  they  had 
washed  in  the  river,  upon  the  common  bleaching 
plats,  or  hanging  them  on  the  branches  of  the  | 
pleasant  grove. 

By  moonlight  I  proceeded  six  miles  hence,! 
through  a  lonely  woods,  to  Caughnawaga,  a  very 
considerable  village  of  Indians  upon  the  banks  ofj 
the  St.  Lawrence.  Their  dwellings  are  similar! 
to  those  of  the  Canadians;  large  and  closely  comj 
pacted  in  several  narrow  streets.  There  are 
two    Catholic     chapels.       Among    them,    arq 


'li 


In  thi 
^0  Moni 
^'Jrcumsi 
Pieasanti 


163 


some  French  ag  well  „  Fn  I   ,. 

Englishman  keepa  the  fn?  "„ '■'''''^°""  "n 
fnd  traffic  with  the  whitL  "  *^  '^"cuKure 
''ave  accumulated  IaT«  for*"'  °'*'*^  ^'""'"'^ 
unusual  to  see  themdfLl  .""?;  '"''  ''  "  ■">' 
-th  great  pompor/j^S  lonfrT ' '"  ««*' 
vmgbehind,  pendant  in  T     .°''?'''a^k  hair  wa- 

'a'e.I  met  n'merou    bov/nr'"'-    "^"-^O ** -a* 
<"^n  in  thestreets  and    ^  '^"^'"^S^'nes  of  their 

dark,  talking  i„  ,„,  'v^^t  ^"'-''^  ^       '"  "'" 
glass  casements,  observedlh   "*    "''°"«''  th« 
"'■'^'es  enjoying  all   thl         ,'  '""'^""^   «»»"/ 
civilization/ AlahttXr'r  °^  ^"-P'^'e 
"'aga.I   went   out  of   a    "ft    "^^ '"  ^*"^'"«'- 
marked  their  limits  of  th»  /        °^  ^^^'    which 
'''"g'lom,andagri„:te;eJTr^'''^^'''''««°ct 
or  five  miles ;  if  the  m wi    T^  '''^  ''^  ^^'^ 
c'ouds  obscured  the  mool  °'"'''^''' ««  ™ing 
»avage  tribe  passed  me  ru,tr    ^  ^""''^^"^  <"'"'e 
»»d  'vrapt  in  i^^ge  whl  M     J  ""°"«  *^  ""ees 
"idnight.  when  'l  T.^  le^'lf '"    ''  -»  -- 
rm-houses,  in^uj,,      ^J^^  a'  «»•»«  Canadian 
em  still  awake!  k„ifti;!;j'^  '""•.  -»"  ^und 
rersmgwith  the  men  J^^    f  f  "'"'§'  "•■  con- 
Gallic  landlady  Zs\,Z,        '^^''  Ares.    My 
appearance  at  soS  JT  ^"'P'-°-  of  m^ 
"^-Planation  soon    o„ci  ° "d    "'  '^  ""  "^''^ 

In  this  description  of^h  ^'  S°°^  '^'"• 

'"  Montreal,  I  llj^"  '•°'"  f'""'"  Kingston 

K-«stances    n>ar  r  'de7"  "rr"'''''''  *"«» 
pleasantness  of  thp  ,„  Justifiable.      The 

*'''  journey,  and    its    being  a 


*  ,:    • 


<*i 


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i 

i 

f 

!?i  i 

■ 

164 


PEDBSTRIAN   T017A. 


\\ 


■I  1 1 


-"Mi 


favourite  course  to  American  pedestrians,  as  I 
found  traces  on  the  way  of  students  from  our 
colleges  having  walked  over  the  same  ground, 
are  reasons  for  such  particular  details.  The 
most  interesting  method  of  travelling  this  dis- 
tance, is  by  taking  the  steamboat  to  Prescot,  the 
stage-coach  to  Cornwall,  the  horseboat  to  the 
Coteau,  a  calash  to  the  Cedres,  the  steamboat 
again  to  La  Chine,  and  a  coach  thence  to  the 
place  of  destination.  A  line  of  stages  also  run 
at  a!l  seasons  without  interruption.  ' 

La  Prairie  lies  nine  miles  obliquely  across  the 
river  from  Montreal,  which  is  seen  beyond  the 
expansive  surface  of  water,  glittering  from  its  me- 
tal ic  roofs  and  steeples  with  great  magnificiencc. 
Immediately  behind  the  city,  rises  suddenly 
above  the  level  country  a  lofty  mountain,  that 
adds  greatly  to  its  beauty.  ,  • 

The  village  of  La  Prairie  is  populous,  exten- 
sive, substantially  built,  and  remarkable  for  the 
collection  of  inns.  In  its  vicinity  are  capacious 
barracks  and  breweries.  The  delay  of  the  ferry- 
boat here,  caused  rae  to  proceed  two  leagues  fur- 
ther, in  front  of  another  regular  file  of  Canadian 
houses,  which  were  awkwardly  contructed  with 
a  door  only  in  the  rear.  Every  seigniory  or  par- 
ish seems  to  have  its  fashion,  by  deviating  in 
some  little  particular  with  respect  to  the  style  of 
building.  Fashion  is  the  bauble  of  the  French; 
and  notwithstanding  the  uniform  sameness  of| 
dre^s  and  manners  of  the  peasantry,  we  may  dis-j 
€0ver  some  small  distinguishing  mark,  of  a  red 


I 

peai 

iarg< 

houfi 

stanci 

ships 

have 

miles 

conce 

novej 

streets 

Hotel 

^igated 

the  wh< 

Jentatic 

Mon< 

to  the  s 

'  hollo  w- 

wountai 

led  the  t 

lare  still 

pts  Jengtf 

[tion,  twei 

Je  inhab 

^ans,  the 

ire  equally 

'^d  and  m 


i 


lap  perhaps  instead  of.  h. 

'"'h   instead  of  one  dL,"  *  T*' °'"  °'»  yelW 

^-%characteri.e:o:rd'2:t"S*  '^'•■^'•^- 
.V  ""^^  "^^^ni  another. 

"■•ge  city,  is  eir  tV^"  '^'''  '">  ">« 
''<'"^«.  as  strong  aToasf,^*''^7-    '^''' ^'^^- 
f  «d  pre-eminem  upo„  tt  T^""  "^''^'•"''le. 
f'P^.  brigs,    steamboau  I  ^   '^''  ''''"'^'  '-Wch 
'»;«  *us  PenetJed  1'    th  ""i  "'^*-   "x'' 
«»'«  froM  the    Gulf  7s.  ^       '^^^  """"dred 
conceal.    Nor  is  the  JJ    ^""""^"'^e.  Partiy 
-vel  „he„  its  interior's'SaT'  ?'.""'"««  '-« 
'treats  tn.versed.  and    t,  r^.K*!!"^'  ''*  '=°°«n«<l 
"ot^l  Dieu,,  colleges    I„d  ?"*'■'"'•  '=°"^««s. 
^''ted.    A  shade  J^ioo  "t      "f''*  "'^  '"^«^ 
,  ae  whole,  and  reminds^^^/'''''^"'-'  P^^vadcs 
'-^«ons  sometimes  eSiT"'"''^  ^«P«- 

*^°"treal  occupies  «r  J  "^^'■'*- 

'0  the  shore  of  the  ver  and  ^^  '-"^ing  parallel 
'ollow  between  it  and'  ft!  r  "  '""'^  '»  ^he 
fflountain.    Formerlv 7  "■"  '""^^n*  of  the 

H*e  town.  o^S'ir  f'''^"~ 
l«e  still  termed  the  snh  u  "^"^  *^  ""^^kirts 
'» '«»S*  is  a  mile  and  at^  r>  «  ^««- 
I  on.  twenty-five  thou«„d  1""'*  ''^  P^P"'"' 
r  -nhabitants  are  Ensl.J,  f?  ^'■^''*  P"*''  «><" 
K  *e  two  languZ  p'*"^  ^'""^  Ameri- 
h  equally  used.     TbHuM  '"''  ^»»''*. 


.Ji-fei/ 


,*    I 


166 


PEDESTRIAK   TOUR. 


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are,  like  the  dwellings,  permanently  constructed 
of  a  hard  grey  lime-stone. 

As  a  commercial  mart,  this  city  rrmks  high. 
Situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ottawa,  and 
St.  Lawrence,  it  transmits  most  of  the  commerce 
of  the  lakes  and  of  the  north-western  tracts. 
From  the  Great  Canal  in  the  State  of  New- York, 
its  commerce  will,  however,  suffer  considerable 
deterioration.  Fur-traders  have  long  attempted 
in  vain,  to  transport  their  goods  expeditiously 
by  means  of  small  rivers  and  creeks,  to  the 
Hudson,  which  is  at  once  accomplished  by  the 
canal  from  Erie  to  Albany.  The  streets  of 
Montreal,  are  excessively  thronged  with  a  busy 
populace,  and  we  can  scarcely  move  through 
St.  Paul's,  without  jostling  against  merchants, 
Canadian  voyageurs,  and  troops  of  north-western 
Indians,  who,  gorgeously  arrayed  in  fine  blacic 
blankets,  wear,  both  men  and  women,  little  Euroily.t 
pean  hats  oddly  put  upon  their  heads,  and  stroll 
about  the  shops  and  market-places,  with  deer  and] 
moose  skin  mockasins  for  sale. 

A  range  of  public  edifices  of  the  noblest  sty  lei 

of  architecture,  occupies  the  highest  ground  o(| 

the  city,  and  from  their  windows  is  obtained  a  fine 

view  of  the  environs.     Behind  them,  is  a  publiclumt 

green,  in  which,  among  the  vistas  of  poplars,  thJew-  ; 

citizens  find  a  delightful  recreation  ;  and  beforfiudi 

them,  at  the  head  of  a  market,  stands  to  the  mefod   ^ 

•I 
mory  of  Nelson,  alarge  pediment  and  column,  witinids 

appropriate  figures  and  inscriptions,  and  the  herfcble 

himself  represented  on  the  summit.    Continuiifmsej 


n 

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IB. 


itly  constructed 

city  ranks  high, 
he  Ottawa,  and 
jf  the  commerce 
-western  tracts, 
teof  New- York, 
Per  considerable 

long  attempted 
is  expeditiously 

creeks,  to  the 
npiished  by  the 

The  streets  of 
^ed  with  a  busy 


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along  Kotre  Dame  strf^Pf^r 

extcns  vebujidina  .«     ..   '^^^^an^e.    This  is  an 

""'"■ng  attending  uDon  "'  ""  '^'"  '»  ">« 

-y.  the  Grey  Sister,  ofl.^;;'' '"'°"'-  "- 

»«^'r  the  Recollet  Convent   I  '  "T     '^'•'■''^- 
a  barracks.  *^"''  ""^  cl-...4,'ed   to 

,'' .''  °"'r  the  alteration  here  anH  .1.        , 
'el'g'ous  institution  intoT     r    ^'^°'^*°n'e 

f  "t,  that  reminds  "soHh!  T    ""^   *'"^'"'«''- 

,. „„„.,  .ti„s  place  has  underJnV    w^"^^  °^  '"^^'ers 

r  move  through  land  gloomy  cathedrals 7  ""^  <^«nvents 

linst  merchants,  Imonks  and  priests  passin   t  *^^"  "^'"^  *™'"'d. 
ofnoith-westernlrobes.  and  scholars  of  ,1  ''^''' '""S  black 

id  in  fine  black  lalong  habited  in  a  Dec. r^  'fmmaries  running 
nen.  little  Euro.l;,believe  it  any  buVtZT  "T"'"^'  '*«c«n  hard- 
heads, and  strolliic  city  it  ,vas  formerly  '*"  ''^"''""y  Catho- 
!8.  with  deer  and!  The  Cathedral  of  Notr„  n 

fVmes,  though  rouj^arH  '''  '^^  ^'""^^ 

the  noblest  stylefce  outside,  is  ma<rnilcr.  T^''^  '""'  «»  »» 
ghest  ground  oio  an  astonishing  "de^Z  T  "^^^'"^''^  ^''hin, 
8  obtained  a  finJures  and  images  of  8ail,t  """"""^^^  hy  pjc 
hem.  is  a  publiJumns  with  their  heav„  ""^  ^°""'<-^  co- 

s  of  poplars.  th*«'  faint  rays  of  li^hf  "'■''*''.'«»*«.  interrupt  the 

ion,  andbefot*indows,wbichahoftof^HH    ""'"'^  ^"""'"^'J 
»nds  to  the  mAd  giJt    mouldinirs     'T?"^^"8;els,  clouds 

indcolumn,witlnidst  this  awful  a^emM™/    '■^^'^'^^.-here.      ' 
,ns.  and  the  hejnblems.  the  devoufvot   ff  V'"'  '"'  '-'"g 
.it.    Continuiimself  at  the  foot  ofZ  °^'^^'^'°»'  -"ay  throw 
I  °^  '^  "««»  "nd  utter  those 


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pious  feelings,  which  the  empty  glaring  walls  oiu 
protestant  fabric,  can  seldom  excite.  Contrasted 
with  this,  is  the  English  church,  a  lofty  pile, 
which  is  but  lately  fmished. 

Whilst  in  Montreal,  I  was  hospitably  enter- 
tained in  the  house  of  a  friend,  in  the  Hay  Mar- 
ket. Having  visited  tliis  city  once  before,  I 
merely  made  some  excursions,  about  its  vicinity, 
and  in  the  afternoon  of  Saturd^,  ascended  to 
the  top  of  the  mountain,  (Mont  Real,  or  Mount 
Royal)  from  which  it  receives  its  name.  The 
path  is  circuitous  and  difficult.  On  the  sum- 
mit is  a  flag  sLatr  and  a  rope  swing  for  pedes- 
trian parties  on  holidays.  But  no  prospect  is 
obtained,  on  account  of  under-brush  without 
climbing  up  one  of  the  tallest  of  the  trees. 
From  the  leafless  top  of  a  venerable  oak,  where 
I  found  remaining,  the  initials  I  amongst  others 
had  cut,  and  recollected  my  having  shaken  acorns 
from  the  boughs,  and  carrying  them  with  me  to 
New-York,  spreads  a  wide  prospect,  limited 
only  by—  ^ 

**  '     •' 

••  —the  eternal  vault, 
That  bounds  tbi  hoary  oceao.** 

The  Chamhly,  or  Boleil  mountains,  are  seen 
prominent  in  one  direction  ;  the  hills  of  Vermont  i 
and  New- York  in  another;  the  course  of  the 
St  Lawrence,  sweeping  past  the  resplendent  city 
immediately  below,  with  its  beautiful  islands, 
and  es[)ecially  St.  Helena:  the  large  island  of| 
Montreal,  isle  of  Jesus  and  Bizarre,  are  em- 


braced  at  once  in  >k 

«ve«I  mouth,  of  Z  X'"""  ''*"•  «»<'  *e 
R-ie.*  des  Pmiries  a„d^;  r;  "'T'^'^'y  '" 
•re  distinctly  traced    winV'*  ***  ^*- •'«'"'. 

ndgy  hill  after  hill    fad^       ?  °**'"  ''"•ection, 
green  into  blue,  fro^tuf?!?"^  "'"''  '•~"> 
dusky  to  the  pa fe  hTe  of  /     .''""^^*  '""^  ^om 
On  the  slope  of  th!  "'  ^''P*"'"- 

'"g  the  i^gulartr^ps  if  f  °"*"''  ^''  '^''-^- 

g'»ndandi„tere,t3;°X'''"'''''''° '"'''«'' 

Sherr;riit\^r:T  ■''-'' ''nhel.ady 

fan.boats.  which  naSe  S'l  ""'  "•^""'"""e 
'he  St.  Lawrence  anlf  ^  /  '""'"  P^^'on  of 
<>{  Montreal      ''        '""'"  '''^''«"  '» ">e  city 


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170 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


CHAPTER  VIL 

(BOM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC,  THE  FALLS  OF  CUAVOIERL 
AND  MONTMORENCI. 


Saturday,  October  7th,  1821. 


if  the  passage  (rotn  Montreal  to  the  city  ot 
Quebec,  could  be  accomplished  altogether  in  day- 
light, one  would  hardly  wish  to  perform  a  more 
agreeable  and  attractive  voyage.  But  circum- 
stances render  more  than  twelve  hours  during 
the  customary  passage,  for  viewing  the  well  in- 
habited and  highly  cultivated  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  not  often  to  be  expected.  Although 
we  sailed  above  half  the  distance  in  the  dark, 
it  may  not  be  thought  improper  to  mention 
cursorily  the  principal  places  we  passed  even 
in  this  way,  of  a  river  so  important  and  so  cele- 
brated. 

Longueil  is  a  village  not  far  below  Montreal, 
through  which  immense  droves  of  cattle  pass 
from  the  State  of  Vermont  to  that  city.  The 
ferry  boat  over  the  river  is  worked  by  ten  horses. 
Boucherville,  Verechercs  Repantegny,  St.  Sul.| 
pice,  la  Valtr6,  la  Noraye,  Dautre,  are  beautiful 
villages  or  seigriiories,  scattered  in  succession  u| 
on  the  banks,  which  are  low  and  champaign ;  eacl 


»  «•  >2« 

•id  are  u 
(iiree  /buj 
tr6toH„ 

^  •  govei 

for  beaver 

St.  Latirrei 

I  *>»«:•«  eel 


171 


^  CUAVDIERL 


the  city  ol 

;her  in  day- 

rm  a  more 

at  circum- 

urs  during 

tie  well  in- 

of  the  St. 

Although 

the  dark, 

3   mention 

assed  even 

ind  so  cele- 

r  Montreal, 
cattle  pass 
city.  Thel 
ten  horses. 
Y,  St.  SuH 
re  beautiful 
xession  u| 
paigni  eaci 


nasitsheaestonechurrK  ^   .- 

polished  siJver  in  Ihe  .  ^'''^'"^^''^'"P"'-^ 

^arm  houses  arXSv".V'^^^^^ 
'^umbers  as  to  reseml  th?  "'^   "^  ^"^'^ 

^i-n  of  a  scattered  X^^^^  '""^'""^^  ^*^^^n«^«- 

SoreJ  or  William   He^i., 
P^jition  upon   the  outlet  Tf  T?''   "'"^  ^    '^^ 
^nd  its  fort  and  ^rnson    .    ^        "  ^»^aniplafn, 
^ome  importance"^  C  T  '"   ''  ^  ^^-"  <^ 

^omes  ten   miles  fernn^'  ''"^  ^^  '^"gth  b^. 
^  J^^  Of  the  gSt  AnS*    "'"'^  ""^^  ^^  -^m 

^»rshy   shok     p,i">"^^  'f  ^'ounded  by 
n^ght  through  the  L^IoJ'^^'^f^'^  «afl  it  the 
^v^r  v^„tu>,d.  and  in  the  Sn       '''    ^""  ''^^- 
Jed  With  a  ^iglitof  mr""'^'^^^^^^^^^^^ 
^stefei^edthfe  third  lai^to"^,^'^^^'  ^^'"'«^nfy 

rie6  riVi^r*  fiear  Vfcjch  H '  fJackatSt.  Maii. 
o<^c^ions  th,  natne  bf  te  and 

•^'ir&  --^"^«»  sxt:  'r '  ■•"  ^"". 


.i  * ' 


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172 


PEDESTRIAN  TOUR. 


Montreal  and  Quebec.  The  houses  stretch  three 
fourths  of  a  mile  along  the  shore.  There  are  no 
wharves,  though  vessels  in  great  numbers  con- 
stantly stop  before  the  town.  The  beach  is  crowd- 
ed with  canoes  and  bateaux,  and  frequently 
the  people  are  observed  rowing  in  unison  and 
accompanying  their  oars  with  the  Canadian  boat 
song :  one  stands  at  the  stern  of  the  ho9t  and 
and  brandishing  a  paddle  in  the  air,  strikes  the 
water  twice  on  one  side  and  then  twice  on  the 
other :  it  is  probably  an  Indian  custom. 

The  banks  become  bolder,  and  covered  with 
houses  and  villages  too  numerous  to  be  men- 
tioned,* as  we  advance  towards  the  rapids  of 
Richelieu,  where  the  river  is  contracted  and  the 
current,  especially  at  ebb  tide,  dashes  tumultu- 
ously  over  the  rocks.  Richelieu  rapids  are 
about  forty  miles  from  Quebec.  The  length  of 
nine  miles  or  three  leagues,  is  remarkable  in  all 
the  divisions  of  the  Canadians.  The  churches 
along  the  river  are  said  to  be  generally  nine 
miles  apart.  La  Chine  is  nine  miles  from  Mon- 
treal :  Caughnawaga,  nine  miles  from  La  Prarie, 
and  La  Prarie  nine  miles  from  Longueil,  as  many 
from  the  city,  and  twice  nine  from  St.  Johns. 
It  is  five  times  nine,  (forty  five  miles,)  from  Mon- 
treal to  Sorel ;  forty  five  thence  to  Three  Rivers, 
about  the  same  to  Richelieu  rapids,  and  nearly 
as  many  to  Quebec;  thus  dividing  the  whole 


•  "All  along  from  Quebec  to  Sorel,  the  river  abounds  with  islands 
and  the  banks  on  both  sides  are  so  populous  that  they  lotA  like  twoj 
continued  villages  of  fifty  leagues  long,"  AteouiU  qf  JVw  Frs 


tretch  three 
here  are  no 
mbers  con- 
:h  is  crowd- 
frequently 
jnison  and 
ladian  boat 
le  bo9t  and 
strikes  the 
^ice  on  the 
n.  , 
►vered  with 

0  be  men- 

1  rapids  of 
bed  and  the 
!8  tumultu- 

rapids  are 
i  length  of 
kable  in  all 
e  churches 
trally  nine 
From  Mon- 

La  Prarie, 
iil,  as  many 

St.  Johns, 
from  Mon- 
ree  Rivers, 
and  nearly 

the  whole 


'fe*>tmtAk   iobh. 


«J^I  mtm,.    "*  **'^  ^h'^f  citiei  fiitb   fo„, 
-^^  ^^T,X^^f^  evening  «, 

»g  up  the  rock  byZtZ     "'^  ^*^"ca.  wf„7 

"•edim  beams  of  the  n.l'      ,    "''  '°''«'y.  whilst 
"^-ve  bulwark,  ,;,h:r  f  •"'^"^'"-ed  tt 

^Wements.  I  parsed  thZ'ht   '^"^  '"^'n  "■* 
Crossing  the  pja^e  d'arl  ^   "**  "Oclosed  ^te 
-en  the  monasTarv  oTth   T'  P^^^-dinrbt 

'-"y   Hotei,  where  T  r^^  •     ,    *  ^   ^^^^  to 
----ofattentioVth^t^it^-ateJ 

'•<*'«)  *atHudIr„T*'''°"'"'^»«'"eti«e 
^a"his„a.e"'Tn     rre^r^-'^i 
FH'nee.  commanded  by  Pont?        '  ''•""PPedin 
^"•npany  Samuel  de  Phf  ^""'^'  '"'^">c  in  his 

pamplain  commenced  a  2/'"''  "f'^''  '^at 
K  of  an  Indian  viil';  a'  cTT'  "P""  «»« 
^^e  «Outh  of  S,  ChaTes  rS  ?"'"°"''  "»' 

j^,«'ver:  a  spot,  chosen 


(■■•   ; 


|;   t!i 


i  I 


■' 


M 


t 


I'* 


I    il 


<•  ! 


4 


H.T-^ 


i 


174 


VEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


on  account  of  its  natural  advantages,  and  as  a 
proper  station  for  a  fortress  against  the  savages, 
and  a  capital  city  to  a  new  and  extensive  em- 
pire. At  first  the  French  settlers  were  harassed 
greatly  by  the  Indians,  with  whom,  however, 
they  found  means  of  ingratiating  themselves  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  make  them  their  attached 
friends. 

When  Quebec  after  eighty  years,  became  a 
place  of  some  consideration,  the  British,  in  the 
war  between  England  and  France,  sent  a  great 
armament  against  it  from  Boston,  and  six  hun- 
dred troops  and  Indians  under  Colonel  Schuyler 
from  New- York:*  they  were  repulsed  with 
great  loss  and  obliged  to  retreat.  Count  de 
Frontenac  returned  the  assault,  and  marching 
into  New- York,  fought  against  the  Onondagas, 
ravaged  the  country,  and  was  at  last  compelled 
to  retire  before  the  allied  British  and  Iroquois. 

A  powerful  English  fleet  sailed  in  1711  to  at- 
tempt once  more  the  reduction  of  this  place. 
Through  the  temerity  of  Sir  Hovendon  Walker, 
the  Cadmiral,  in  approaching  too  near  the  Seven 
Isles  in  the  St.  Lawrence,-many  of  the  largest  ships 
were  cast  away  and  three  thousand  men  were  lost; 
and  the  army,  which  was  descending  from  Mon- 
treal retired  in  consequence  of  the  disaster. 

About  the  year  1754,  the  French  inhabitants! 
generally  of  North  America,  became  so  barefaced 

*  About  this  time  (1690)  the  French  lurpriscd  and  burnt  the  towol 
•f  ^chenecttdy  in  the  state  ef  New-York,  end  murdered  most  ^lb(| 
injhabilMits. 


},  and  as  a 
he  savages, 
insive  em- 
re  harassed 
,  however, 
mselves  in 
iir  attached 

became  a 
tish,  in  the 
mi  a  great 
d  six  hun- 
el  Schuyler 
ulsed  with 
Count  de 

marching 
Dnondagas, 
compelled 
[roquois. 
1711  toat- 
this  place, 
on  Walker, 
r  the  Seven 
irgest  ships 
[1  were  lost; 
from  Mon- 
ister. 
inhabitants 
[)  barefaced 


^KDESTRiAN    TOUR 

'■-.irxsrsir  ""^  ^''^^^  »--- 

^'^^  his  flee,  to  he  S.  7"- '""''""«" 
where  he  captured  .Jit  ^  ^«''fo"ndla„d 
••^'-'ities  were  coll::  Jr;''  "'^''  "^  -«- 
generated  between  EnS  .  "  "«''  '^"'^as 
'008  were  carried  on  wfc  ?"  ^"'"'^«-  OP*"- 
In  America,  though  the  rf  7  J'^''"'"'  ^"^Pe- 
'"  ""e  or  two  int nee,  S         ff'""^  a  de£ 

their  arms.  ^^ '^*'' ™ostijr  attended 

*e  ferocious  Indian  t^^^''^.^^^  -""  «ost  all 
"'^o  to  invade  their  territoril     "  """""y-  but 
»nne,  them  to  the  domSl  '/"^  '^  P^^'We 
^veral  expeditions  weru^dL?  .^'^'  ^"'«'». 
'he  "ame  time  towards  Car.    n'"'  •^'''^^ed  at 
"'ga  and  Crown  point   nCI    '"''^  '■  '^'■^""de- 
Quesne  on  the  river  ohi      T""'  ""^  fort  du 
f '"iam    M„rn"w^t\icf  °"^'"*"''  •""  «' 
Jeotm  and   Lake  gIoI   1?;"""'   «»  ^ova- 
ft;;^d  in  taking  the  J^a^"?  ^  '"''er 
«nt     General  Braddock  w^Tr       "''  ""^  ''a 
••y  the  French  and  Sr.w""'^  *"<*  billed 
-^huscade.  as  he  raX  t  '"  "/  ''''^^- '« 

J^^ghan  unknown   forest  T"'.'"   "-""P' 
Quesne.    Our  ffreaf  r  '  '°'^*'"''»  Fort  du 

h  B-<iclock  fn  th  ttSio'^-''-S«-.  - 
Hon^rated  against  t"e  t^.  '  """  •■"  ^"'"'y 
["h-ch  occasioned  their  defeat       '°'"  '*"'*"'y 


.'    I '•'til 


," 


rli 


■:-♦  rfr  /. 


\«;»- 


«•' 


■i- 


«     'u 


t 


Ml 


J    1 


r- 


5*i 


176 


iPEBftSTAIAK   TOtrn. 


Soon  after,  the  British  gofehfirh6ht,  cbhtreivlh^ 
k  more  decisive  effort  necessary  to  conquer  so 
extensive  a  country  as  Canada,  which  as  yet  had 
no  definitive  bounds,  ordered  three  powerful  as- 
saults to  be  itiade  at  once  against  its  strongest  and 
most  important  fortresses.  This  was  in  1759. 
The  French  capitulated  at  Fort  Niagara,  after  a 
body  of  soldiers,  who  were  marching  to  their  as- 
sistance, had  been  routed  by  Sir  William  Johnson. 
They  abandoned  Crown  point  and  Ticonderoga, 
upon  the  approach  of  the  army  under  general 
Amherst,  and  retired  to  Quebec  the  capital  of 
Canada,  and  the  centre  of  all  their  military  opera- 
tions. A  powerful  fleet  commanded  by  Admi- 
ral Saunders,  and  an  army  under  general  Wolfe, 
were  sent  to  besiege  Quebec,  which  it  will  be 
necessary  to  describe,  before  the  conduct  of  the 
siege  and  subsequent  battle  can  be  well  under- 
stood. ^* 

Quebec  is  situated  on  a  rocky  point  of  land, 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  river  St.  Charles  I 
tvith  the  St.  Lawrence.     Both  sides  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  which  is  here  only  half  a  mile  wide.l 
are  composed  of  high  perpendicular  clifls  fori 
Many  miles  up  the  river,  inaccessable  except  in| 
Some  few  places,  where  a  rivulet  or  the  rains 
have  worn  a  ravine  into  the  bank.    Above  the 
heights,  the  country  is  level  and  in  a  state  oj 
complete  cultivation.     Upon  the  top  of  a  loftj 
precipice  between   two  and  three  hundred  feej 
high,  stands  the  Fortress  of  Quebec  defended  bj| 
nature,  and  by  the  utmost  powers  of  human  conj 


t? 


,  cbrtceivih^ 
conquer  so 
1  as  yet  had 
powerful  as- 
ttongest  and 
18  in  1759. 
gara,  after  a 
to  their  as- 
im  Johnson, 
iconderoga, 
der  general 
le  capital  of 
litaryopera- 
i  by  Admi- 
leral  Wolfe, 
h  it  will  be 
iduct  of  the 
well  under- 

int  of  land, 
St.  Charles 

of  the  St. 

mile  wide,| 
ir  cliffs  fori 
e  except  in 
r  the  rain! 
Above  thi 

a  state  oj 
p  of  a  lofti 
indred  feel 
lefended  b] 


'"">'»TMtA>,    xoui,. 


trivance.     Itg  out  r      •  """  ^" 

-'"•<='-.  face  the  t^o  coi^r*'"'  *^'»  ''^^  of 
"Pon  the  verge  of  the  ,5*"'  T^"'  ""d  have 
and  batteries.    The  p«rl  "'"''^  "<>««  wall 

^   P'"-..  is  «  firm  Ton"?' ''t''''''^''^™'' 
"""y  feet  high  and  fifi'T  """'  ""''  """Part 

<^»'te.n8.  ,vith  a  deep  moat   .  '»*«"nediate 

*<>*«•     This  forms  The  i'.""-""'^  "■"'  ""'- 

^l-ouf  one  square  mile    in  tv?  ""''   «"^'"«e'' 
""Whines,  barracks  *;,"t,r'"'^\''^«  -"nUined 

■"anr  private  houses  aS  """"'^  "'"'^ings 

''»».  'be  celebrated  etoS  T"  "*'  "«''*«  ^'^vt 
'^esolittlekno.nt^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

of  the  city  of  Queber  J  ^"«'«'' ""e  name 

"itb  *efortrer„  *:•  l^.^^P-hended.  togeS 

rf  houses  upon  the  b^VnT"'  "  "'""P"-'  «ne 
f  the  point,  denomi^attd  i'?'"'^''P  ^'^'""i 
kuildings  upon  the  hill  I?;  ^   '""'"  '<>'»''.  the 

,  «^;ed  St.  j1.,  sub^l°td Vp**  ""»^«! 

collection  of  small  dSj'     ^  ^°'=''''.  « '^We 

H  of  St.  Charles  rita^or'r?  "PO"  the 
pef  portion  of  the  Z:  u      "'"''''  Po^'ess  the 

kehartlj,  begun  ewem  tie   '"""'  ■""  ''"'oh 

•''-ns.spefk;:^  *;tr'^  ""^  "'-<'  of 
"  the  heights  of  bLZJ'"^  '^^  houses; 

^^■•ohthe   famous  ITCoTm'"' '"" '"'^ 
«c.p.tated ;  and  more  to  L     '^^^"""orenci  is 


P'  ■ 


III''/ 


I 


1[ 


\' 


it        p 


t 
li       I 


';.li 


((! 


1  h 


m 


! 


t     ^' 


178 


PBDBSTltrAll    TOUR. 


and  ditsky,  in  the  clouds  of  the  horizon.  Iti  a 
direction  southvrest,  are  the  ptaiira  of  Abmham, 
and  two  miles  ot),  a  stiMll  curvature  of  the  bank, 
which  since  the  important  battle  originating  there, 
has  received  the  api>ellation  of  Wolfe's  cove. 

The  fleet  arrived  at  the  isle  of  Orleans  in  June, 
upon  which  the  troops  l^anded  and  encamped. 
According  to  the  Geuemrs  orders,  it  was  imme- 
diately  made  khown  to  the  inhabitants,  that  their 
property  and  privileges  should  remain  unmoles- 
ted, if  they  observed  a  perfect  neutrality  in  the 
dispute  between  England  and  France :  but  this, 
although  a  generous  proposal,  was  asking  more 
than  they  as  good  subjects  ought  to  observe,  and 
in  consequence  of  their  joining  with  the  Indian 
parties  in  annoying  the  camp,  many  disorderly 
acts  of  the  soldiers  towards  them  were  passed 
over  without  punishment.  The  firbt  operation 
was  to  seize  pointe  Lievi,  opposite  Quebec,  which 
is  a  narrow  space  of  ground  surmounted  by  high  i 
shelving  l>anks.  This  was  accomplished,  and  the 
lower  to«wn  by  the  fire  from  ike  battieries,  was 
soon  reduced  to  «ishei».  In  the  night  after  a{ 
tiokint  storm  had  scattered  th^i^eet  and  destroy- 
ed some  of  the  boatft  titid  transport!^,  fire-8hifK| 
were  discovered  floati^ig  towards  th^  isle  "Of  Or^ 
lean^,  whicih  M.  de  MontdatAi  the  Frettch  ig^e-| 
ral,  h!ad  serit  down  for  the  purpose  of  firing  the 
Bluish  vessel's,  then  Itiyii^  Vei^  ntettr  *^ch  otherj 
Some  boa>ts  "Were  de^pi^ttied  tutntmed  with  sai( 
kyr«,  who  daontliesdly  WeVit  tm  ibblird  «f  the  Ri 
ship^  and  towied  them  aiihOre,  Wheire  th6  tifeii 


^^^ 


^rizon.    Iti  a 
>f  Abmham, 
of  the  bank, 
mating  there, 
fe'fi  cove, 
aaris  in  June, 
i  encamped. 
t  tvas  imme- 
ts,  that  their 
lin  uninoles- 
trality  in  the 
c6:  but  this, 
asking  more 
observe,  and 
h  the  Indian 
y  disorderly 
(v«re  passed 
Jt  oiperation 
rebec,  which 
nted  by  high 
bed,  and  the 
ittieries,  was 
ight  tider  a 
ttid  destroy- 
6,  fire-ships 
5  iale'of  Or- 
'fetich  igfehe-l 
if  fiHtigthi 
r  ^ch  oth^fj 
ed  With  sai' 
^f the  fi 
e  th6  Yi6i 


'•fi»*:»T«iAN  TOUH, 


"*"  '0  the  greatest  in  ,k  "   ^"'«"'^«  »nd 

pice,  aroun/ie,   f"^" '''^  '«"''''     'l'i.e  preci. 
"»e  to  the  heirtt  o-  r^. "  '^'"''"i^^ble  to»e 
The  We  of  the  S         "'  ^""'^"^  ""''  «%  ^11' 

""«  cove,  and  the^'re^rL  T"'^-'""^  ''^''  «"» 

•covered  onl^  k„ec  deep  ^ir"'"   "'^   '^"°'» 
'tending  river.    General  W  .      r'*'  "'' ""« -le- 
•"oubt  which  the  vZ2\Z    "  "^'■^'"P  "•«  '«• 
f«:e  water,  tmnap^rt  ^  .'       ""^ '•■*  ^«« 
fention  of  taking  itZl        ^P"  *'""  »"  in- 

'^ommorenci/lJ  or  '^7""^  '"'^  °^  «"« 
"OSS  the  ford  ami  .«„  *  grenadiers   to 

'"«ead  of for'ni  ^IraTon'''^  ''"*^''-  «"' 
"owly  onward.  sLaiL"^  ^  ""^''^  "npe«- 
«emy:'s  entrenchn,  nt""  n  l^T'  '"'  '""^  '"e. 
Ihe  remaining  troops    ;„"et  *"  '"e  hill. 

However,  on  account  ofT?  '"  ^'^  °'der, 
f  ""y  roclcs  in  landi^l  /!?  '""""^  «>«*»  '".rd. 

*««  '''«  expected  aTdTht^r^'^''^'^   '»°»e' 
;»  **-<'ve.  a  retit  tiet   *'^'""'"«  '"  "«- 
'70'  a  great  numfTrTs^'*'*'"^'''"*^  ">«■ 
I'alunble  officers.  ***'**"^*  «»«»  several 


r-/ 


1 


I  *■■ 


1  f 


'■if 


!:f  !,  i 


i 


h  II'" 
{ 

If     < 


1' 


180 


PEDESTRIAN    TOVR. 


i 


V. 

•i 

1. 


■   i! 


I. 

r  1 ; 


'^ 


■:  r 


1^ 


r-'  V 


'  ,4 


sistance  of  wealth  or  of  friends,  to  the  important 
command  which  he  now  held.  The  enterprise 
was  of  the  most  hazardous  nature ;  and  many 
generals  situated  as  he  was,  encircled  by  high 
rocks  and  mountains,  beset  by  the  Indians  who 
seized  every  opportunity  for  plunder  and  blood- 
shed, assaulted  by  floating  batteries,  fireships, 
and  the  shells  from  the  enemy's  entrenchments, 
and  deputed  to  storm  a  fortress  long  deemed 
impregnable,  would  have  been  discouraged  and 
probably  have  desisted  altogether  from  the  at- 
tempt. With  so  little  chance  of  success,  he  was 
determined  to  endeavour  the  utmost,  and  accord- 
ing to  the  universal  opinion  of  his  officers  in  a 
council  of  war,  though  he  himself  thought  their 
advice  rather  too  adventursome,  he  resolved  to 
gain  the  heights  of  Abraham  and  bring  on  a 
general  engagement. 

The  French  had  stationed  sentinels  along  all 
the  tops  of  the  bank  and  at  the  edge  of  the  river. 
The  fleet  sailed  up  the  St.  Lawrence,  above 
Quebec,  and  in  the  dead  of  night  the  transports 
were  allowed  to  float  with  the  trbops  down  the 
current,  as  far  as  Wolfe's  cove  where  they  were 
to  ascend  the  heights.  At  first  they  mistook  the 
landing  place  in  the  dark,  and  a  French  sentinel 
hearing  them,  came  very  near  descovering  the 
whole  plot.  He  inquired  what  boats  they  were ; 
and  was  immediately  answered  by  one  of  the 
captains,  who  fortunately  talked  good  French,  that 
they  were  bateaux  of  provisions  from  Lake  St. 


#»'  L 


e  important 
2  enterprise 
and  many 
led  by  high 
Indians  who 
'  and  blood- 
(,  fireships, 
enchments, 
)ng  deemed 
u  raged  and 
om  the  at- 
ess,  he  was 
md  accord- 
Hficers  in  a 
>ught  their 
resolved  to 
bring  on  a 


Wit' 


s  along  all 
f  the  river, 
ice,  above 
transports 
)  down  the 
they  were 
listook  the 
^h  sentinel 
leering  the 
hey  were ; 
ne  of  the 
rench,  that 
Lake  St. 


"aiiKs  above  WrtJfia'o 
?«»««>  than  any  wheZ.u     '''""""*  ^^  Preci- 

--.jjic*.  though  ;i  rc;^  "-*  ^ «? 

^«^««to„^„t„^-  ^J^wed  to  enabled  the'. 
6CU  oy  Colonel  Bot^J^     ,      ^  ®®»  ^ce  di«. 

Hear  «,» .  aware.     Ti,,.   „.        ^  them 

-'«»Mhe  troops  ascended  andl  ^^^^    ^>»S 

Ao  soon  a,  ,be   FreZ,       ""^  ""  ""e  ton 

»''<^e^stood  that   thel^  f.^"^  de  MontcaS 

J-'ghts  of  Ah^tham    S"^    '■••'  8*«ed  Z 

deemed  inaccessibte  he  J'f,''*'  '«'<'  confideBwl 

'Ofce  from    R„        '       S:ot  together  I.:.      .  ^ 

on  the  ^^-  ^^"Po«  and   his -^f        ''''°'e 

''^-^S^t  1;^'--^  s-rttr '^ 

*ix  thousand,   an^  between  /Jva  ,  j 

soldiers      T^K      ^  consisted  of  h«  ^  ^"*^ 

uiers.     The  chame  com^  ^'*'^>'  veteran 

trench  general  «.««        ""^*ng  that   i^ar     Tk 

-      /  ^  *"C  Wrist    rr^ 

IQ  ;'«•  He  con- 


i.  I    ■ 


'   r 


■\ 


I 


i 

!■ 


18-2 


N 


PEDESTRIAN   TOVR. 


tinued  giving  orders  and  advanced  at  the  head  of 
the  grenadiers  with  their  bayonets  fixed,  when 
another  ball  more  fatal  pierced  his  breast.  He 
leaned  on  the  shoulder  of  a  soldier  and  fainted. 
Hearing  a  voice  cry,  "  They  run !"  he  revived 
for  a  moment  and  asking  who  ran,  was  informed 
the  French.  Unable  to  gaze  any  longer,  he  sunk 
on  the  soldier's  breast,  and  uttered  with  his  last 
breath, "  I  die  happy."  A  stone  records  the  place 
where  he  died.  No  monument  is  erected  to  his 
memory:  for  his  glory  needs  no  such  trophy. 
The  rising  towers  of  Quebec  are  his  monument, 
and  whoever  views  them  must  think  of  Wolfe 
the  conquerer  of  Canada,*   . 


.*!' 


f 

n 

ai 

A 

stj 

re* 

thii 

of 

t/)ai 

and 

is  n 

whei 

timb 

entir 

l^poi 

teries 

erecte 


Soon  after  my  arrival  in  Quebec,  an  Ameri- 
can, a  stranger  like  myself,  accompanied  me  on 
an  excursion  to  the  plains  of  Abraham.  It  is  laid 
out  in  com  fields,  and  belongs  in  part  to  private 
persons,  and  in  part  to  the  prerogatives  of  thel  defern 
governor.  Upon  the  latter  portion  we  saw  wholel  thai  a 

broadi 


-They  have  MVn 


Each  in  his  field  of  glory ;  one  in  ams, 
And  one  in  council.    Wolfe  upon  tl     lap 
Of  smiling  victory  that  moment  won. 


-Wolfe  wherever  he  fought 


Mii 


\  « 


3'  v/^ifT-^ 


Put  80  much  of  his  heart  into  his  act, 
That  his  example  had  a  magnet's  force 
And  all  where  swift  to  follow  whom  all  loved.  B  ^^^' 
^u\    ti  ';  ■•    ■  '-v  Cowpiii. 

0  Wolfe,  to  thee  a  streaming  flood  of  woe,     /  '  in ' 
Sighing  we  pay,  and  think  e*en  conquest  dear  i 

Quebec  in  vain  shall  teach  our  breast  to  glow, 
Whilst  thy  sad  fiite  extorts  the  heart  wrung  tear. 

Goldsmith 


french 
wood  jn 
of  the  e 
^>ii  he  y 
landexcj 
«coundr, 
'>oot  thi 
ey  pasi 
38  nionj 
to  J 


t  the  head  of 
fixed,  when 
breast.  He 
and  fainted, 
he  revived 
as  informed 
;r,  he  sunk 
with  his  last 
ds  the  place 
rected  to  his 
uch  trophy, 
monument, 
ik  of  Wolfe 

»  an  Ameri- 
anied  me  on 
n.  It  is  laid 
•t  to  private 
itives  of  the 
e  saw  whole] 

•d. 

detrv 
ow, 
ng  (ear. 

OLDSMITH 


platoons  of  soldier  ».  '  ^^ 

potion  of  ehegroufd'^'''**^-    '^''^  "-o"  lev"! 

'"<i^^pen  riders  had  lafX  "     '''^"°' ho«es 
A  person  who  prelenl^  !  ^  *''^'"*«'  "^eir  skill 

"^at  the  cannon  was  hn.J  !        ^^  ^^  *hat  time 

rj""«^-    A^^rrj/^Jy-ansof^S 
'»  now  cut  in  an  ollio'^"'^ ""  ""^  descent 

tTi,r  *'^  "-^P"  -noun  Id   dol""?' "'  *«  P'»ce 
n^her  establishment  on  ;h2T  *°  ''"  «*'«'«'ive 
entirejy   out  of  si,rht  f  "'*'*•    ««ebec  is 

^P- 'he  pro«.„r ',  3  ?;  '«'«'«  ~ 
teries  m  the  form  „f  '  '*'>  or  three  bit. 

«ected.  fortbe  p^Jl  T""*  '*»'««  have  bSa 
Jfendi„gtt,/„7^-°f;«^pi„gthep,ain.a„l' 

hd«cIt!L''^"='^P'etel/tirL   h  '•""•'« 

I   "  wciaimed,  «n_i  ,„, ,  f,  "^™,  he  sat  down 

hundrel. :  r),  ha^' ^,  ^^^  «'.  «.e  rina^at" 
t'^'em."    TheoC:lrff'«»dna-fa;: 

N  passed  by,  ••  had  ^raT,??!""^^  *•'«»«« 
M^'novaslha'eenkaliy  1'?"''  ^e  cried. 
^  *»  kalUa  to  I5gh   l^/"^- 'here  wad  be 

^     *'  ""'«•    Fi%  heads  I 


lif  i 


^■.  ' 


1 


yi 


^\ 


...J  -J 


184 


PEDESTRIAN  TOUft. 


were  found  upon  the  field,  most  of  which  were 
suppoiied  to  have  been  severed  by  his  hand.  After 
procuring  sonae  bullets  and  crystals  of  quartz, 
usually  called  diamonds,  which  are  ploughed  up 
in  the  field,  we  returned.  Wolfe's  stone  remains 
greatly  hacked,  at  the  corner  of  a  wheat  field  near 
the  race  course  :  yet  it  is  said  that  the  real 
stone  upon  which  he  died,  was  taken  away,  and 
was  selling  in  the  city  at  so  much  for  each  small 
piece :  and  I  saw  a  publication  which  stated, 
that  travellers  might  be  supplied  with  pieces  of 
the  stone,  by  applying  to  someplace  in  the  upper 
town  which  I  dp  not  remember. 

During  my  stay  at  Queb.ec,  I  was  made  acquain- 
ted with  Colonel  M— ,  of  Lake  Champlain,  who 
had  beeii  an  OlScer  in  the  revolutionary  war, 
and  who,  by  his  frequent  visits  to  this  place, 
was  able  to  give  me  much  satisfactory  informa- 
tion. With  this  gentleman's  assistance  I  obtained 
admittance  into  Castle  Lewis,  the  residence  of 
the  governor  in  chief,  the  barracks,  formerly,  a 
Jesuits*  college,  the  seminary  of  the  priests,  and 
the  Bishop's  palace,  which  is  appropiated  as 
parliament  house  of  Lower  Canada.  The  earl 
Dalhousie,  present  governor  of  Canada  was  absent  I 
at  Montreal.  The  castle  or  chateau  projects  I  plain, 
beyond  the  top  of  the  precipice,  and  has  stone  I  within 
piers  to  support  it  from  the  side  of  the  slopinglThe  goi 
rock.  Its  interior  decorations  are  superb.  Weltion  hoii 
cannot  enter  the  apartments,  without  remcmber'l balls,  a 
ing  the  late  unfortunate  duke  of  Richmond,  tiielterminat 
former  governor,  who  received  his  death  fronlaQ  anciei 


i^ 


the  bite  of  .  «■  *^ 

»on.  mounted  and  ready  to  Jrf  K'^''  "^  ^o- 
""rhowile  ve«el  uptL  S^,  '*"''P''*'««<»f 
"••^  other  garden.  furtheV  ftl  ITT"*-  "^^ere 
'Oct.  belonging  toThe  J?  ""^  ^""^  »f  ""e 

-^  office«!arLL  „  R^  "s!  V"'*'"-'^ 

As  the  moon  «k«  ^  a-ouis. 

^'ookgreaTS;  r  :S''"«''t  in  'heevening,. 

«»<i  on  the  earthen  terS^t"'  '"^  ^'"''i 
•dge  of  the  pi^cipice     r!  ":''"-*  '*'"1  "'ong  the 
peculiarly  g.and.'^  WhilTfr""'  "'  "«"'  "»>«  » 
"'e  reflected  from  the  ml.  ^*  '"^^  "''  *«  moon 
*<=-"  »nd  the  sh"iT  •^'•^'•'o^'helower 
"•"I"  there  is  ju  t  "It  1?^  "^  ">«  ^^hurches. 
"'"'els  in  theharbouf  a„H?r"'  '"  """'^  *e 
.«"«•  their  mortars  and  their         '"•''''^'"  '°'-«" 
'ng  more  formidable  than.        u"""  ■"*"*  "PPear- 
"■«  ""oughts,  arresfei  aJ„T"'r"^''"''e'-m; 
»°"nd3  of  martial  must  '^7'*  ''J'  ">«  distant 
..c.„„.u.  various  instruments  of  I'h     ''"■«*"'"'  »' *e 
opiated  atlwedisposedtosoa-.k  "P'"''*''  at  hand 

The  ear.  I  ,he  rei„s  X    ^^T'  '"''^''"'^ry  Jatt' 
.wasabsenll     The  ran.parts  of  tT'  ^°^  '""'  ""«  happv 
u  projecflplain.    aJd   aV'^J  eS"'^:'"'^'' ^»-''e 
Ihasstonelw.thin  is  covered  »^?         ""'"'•    The  slooe 

^e  slopmJTbego^eoflS^^XnT  ""  "'"''"  '-^ 
?erb.     Wei , on  houses  and  incr^t?  I     '"^"^'^  '""^  am-ni- 

r^fX"";   '•""    oanlo'^'tT"""""'^'"'^"^. 
hmond,HK!lte,mmatesthew«ii,„  ^'    ""«  Potasse,    which 

death  i^oX.  ancient  bui^lthrS  ?-'-'  n-.t 

I  1(^*         *'^^'**  convent 


i  ■{! 


lit! 


1 

i   r 


i: :  ^ 


[;;rii: 


f 


i 

1  !              ' 

1' 

■•           ■ 

1! 

'  ■      ( 

f\ 

■,,  ■  ?  i 

i',* 
|!;' 
r^ 


186 


PBDESTRlAJr   TOVn. 


under  the  French,  and  which  has  shared  the  fate 
of  some  other  religious  edifices,  in  becoming  a 
military  school  and  barracks.  The  most  curious 
piece  of  military  architecture  I  observed,  was  St. 
John's  gate,  which  is  so  concealed  by  the  out- 
works, that  a  number  of  turns  are  to  be  made  in 
approaching  it,  and  at  the  end  of  each  turn,  are 
carronades  and  formidable  rows  of  loop  holes, 
which  forbid  an  enemy  the  least  hope  of  access. 
St.  Lewis  gate  is  somewhat  similar.  The  ram- 
parts are  not  solid,  but  contain  stove-rooms  and 
"secret  cells  and  passages,  of  which  little  is 
known."  Every  thing  is  in  the  neatest  order. 
The  greatest  strictness  and  secrecy  is  observed 
among  the  soldiery.  They  are  always  upon  the 
alert  to  detect  the  slightest  tresspass,  and  stand 
with  their  shouldered  muskets  at  almost  every 
comer.  I  chanced  to  take  a  plan  of  Quebec  out 
of  my  pocket,  whilst  walking  on  the  rampart, 
which  Colonel  M —  bade  me  instantly  to  return, 
as  the  sight  of  even  that  piece  of  paper,  seen  by 
one  of  the  guards,  might  cause  us  to  be  suspect* 
ed,  and  perhaps  apprehended !  •  *-  -  -  f 
*  Repairs  and  additions  are  continually  making] 
on  various  parts  of  the  fortifications.  The  chiefl 
design  of  strengthening  this  place  is  to  prevent  its| 
(ailing  into  the  hands  of  Americans,  in  case 
another  rupture  with  Great  Britain  ;  and  on  thatl 
account  they  are  very  cautious  how  they  admilj 
people,  especially  from  the  United  States,  amoo^ 
their  works.  The  Citadel  which  is  thestrongc 
and  jnost  elevated  part,  lias  been  till    iatel;| 


5*T 


red  the  fate 
becoming  a 
lost  curious 
7ed,  was  St 
>y  the  out* 
be  made  in 
h  turn,  are 
loop  holes, 
i  of  access. 
The  ram- 
-rooms  and 
ich  little  IS 
satest  order, 
is  observed 
ys  upon  the 
» and  stand 
[most  every 
Quebec  out 
he  rampart, 
y  to  return, 
jr,  seett  by 
be  suspect- 


F£ilJB«TRUK   TOVJR. 


la? 


«-d  vaults  of  a  m  Je  "Itl  ?!","«  ""*««'•»*» 
admittance,  and  vie^  il:?^  ^"^  '^r  gain 

ftbe  Comn.i«ary  Ge^S      '.'  '""'""«' «  Pa» 
««1  for  four  hou«    ^rJ' ""  ""^'''«''lrg«ti. 

^et.inexan.inin.'u.t^eHoranr'  "^  ** 
me  subterraneous  passa.,..  .  j  j       "^  viewing 

-«  •'  length  laid  ojl^^  T  r?''""''  '^'''«* 
"""•W-    A  gentle„,a7i''^^''e'';»»<l  to  the 
P'-'ed  me.  who  was  s^  inZi^^""^'"^  ««»«»- 
'^''P  "Pon  a  fresh  embi        ""  "*  *°'»*kea 
,'^'«'  fle««  sandy  Sr^™'"^'"-''  "»  S-art. 
''P«.  '«»ediately  calTedt?   """"""^  "^er  his 
;o  '"•»  and  n,S:to^':"»"''«»'eni„gtone 
follow  his  exanipje   t„  °   '"*»  "''°'"    to 

-n^picuous  staTion'ai ™ T  '"*"   '■^°'»  <>" 

y°">«  gentleman  a  tvo.T'^""''*'-     ^ 

^e  informed,  was  22^7  *"T'^'^'  ''^  ^^ 

sates,  for  penciling  ZfL     "^'^  o"'  of  the 

-''-h  theguardsj^j'";;  "^- a  P--  of  paper. 

''«  hafld  and  ton,  tof™™!'?  '  '"'"^^d  from 

»«er  a  syllable.    A^er  T'^"'"'''*  «>"W 


X, 


188 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR* 


i    !l: 


ii  !*i 


V: 


Measurer,  with  all  its  mystical  geometrical 
angles,  elevations,  and  paralielopipids. 

The  public  as  well  as  the  private  buildings  of 
Quebec,  possess  a  substantial  appearance.  They 
are  of  a  bluish  coloured  lime  and  slate  stone, 
obtained  from  the  rock  upon  which  they  stand, 
and  which  is  continually  blasted  away  for  the 
purpose  of  building.  The  diamond  rock  which 
is  crowned  by  the  citadel,  consists  of  contorted 
strata  of  slate  and  limestone  with  veins  of  a 
whitish  calcareous  spar,  and  cracks  filled  in  with 
minute  crystals  of  quartz.  The  face  of  diamond 
rock  is  very  ragged,  so  that  an  unfortunate  cow, 
which  strayed  too  near  the  edge  and  slipped,  as 
I  chanced  to  be  passing  under  it,  came  to  the 
bottom,  mangled  in  a  most  distressing  manner. 

The  convent  of  the  Urselines,  the  Hotel 
Dieu,  the  Court-house  and  prison,  have  very 
gloomy  looks.  I  did  not  care  to  visit  either  of 
them.  Not  above  a  week  previous,  a  wretched 
criminal  was  hung  in  front  of  the  Court-house, 
for  murdering  a  man  in  a  fit  of  frenzy.  As  I 
walked  one  day  through  an  unfrequented  street, 
by  the  grated  windows  of  the  prison,  I  was 
attracted  by  a  little  red  bag,  lowered  from  a 
grate  in  one  of  the  upper  stories,  which  as  it 
descended,  was  accompanied  by  the  words, 
"  Pour  Tamour  de  Dieu,  donnez  au  prisonnier 
malheureux  un  sou.  Monsieur!'*  Dropping  in 
what  was  requested,  I  mounted  a  little  eminence 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  way,  and  perceived 
through  the  iron  bars,  a  poor  half-starved  Cana- 


:eometrical 

uiidingg  of 
lice.    They 
slate  stoue, 
they  stand, 
^ay  for  the 
'ock  which 
r  contorted 
veins  of  a 
Ued  in  with 
>f  diamond 
inate  cow, 
slipped,  as 
ime  to  the 
\g  manner, 
iie    Hotel 
have  very 
:  either  of 
wretched 
»urt-house, 
izy.     As  I 
ted  street, 
3n,   I  was 
ed  from  a 
lich  as   it 
le    words, 
prisonnier 
'opping  in 
eminence 
perceived 
^ed  Cana- 


PfiDESTKlAN    TOUR.  ^^^ 

^'an    in    his    greatcoat  and  scarlet  n.r. 
^"«'iy  pulling  up  the   hJ       I  *P'  ^^''y 

thanks  by  a  varietv  nf     ^'  """^  expressing  his 
expressions.  !       ^  "^  ^"'"^^^  -"^  energetic 

'Alts   OP    MONTMOREJfCI.     ' 

«'culatiDgi„ereat'L„f""^'^P°rt,  with  money 
into  it  evefy  dav  V.   ^•''"''  """'g««">ro„gi4 

the  fells  of  Mon  !,"       '^^^  '^^'' ""  ^cureion  to 
*e  gentlemen  wh„"LTb:r'  ''°""^'' '»  '^"-h 

"orthern  climate  wMi^'r^./!  ""'"'•*'  '»  ""i. 
'•"tensely  cold  ire^"^  ^.  "^ """* '»  <f'0'» 
for  the  last  five  ^^^Tw  Tl  '*''  '^*»  «"''ng 
Of  thec^ldinto's^^t:;:'^!'^''-^  "i^  ^' 
of  water  about  the  strl!  *  collections 

'nch  in  thickneL  and  .  ""*  '""«*'»  ^alf  a« 
^  neighbounW  "I'T  ""''"""'*  *e  tops  of 
of  Thu  V:^e\"r"*«'''»-    On  the  morning 

»»  to«ee  the  sun  S„?h    k*"*  **  '"""'""'te 
cloud.  *'"8  '»  "»«  horizon  without  a 

A  lengthy  bridge   crosses  «f   /n.    .  * 

-*•!<*.  when  the  tWe  SJl  ?"'«»'  "'«".  " 
•tream,  and  when  the  H^    f'         "*  '  "«''''«» 
^^i.  looks  as  wiS^t  sTl""""'  "'  '"» 
A»  we  passed  over  it   the  tfd.        '"'^*  "*«'• 
'^.P.%e.tteredov.£dtC,l-S 


! 
li  -! 


i\ 


t 


I    / 1 


i; 


I  .  i 


;    ( 


(. 


i 


m 


I 


If 


It 


190 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


were  driving  upon  the  occasional  roads  thus  at- 
forded.  The  whole  distance  hence  to  Montmo- 
renci,  (eight  miles,)  is  one  continued  street  of 
little  one  storied  houses,  built  and  arranged  ex- 
actly similarly  to  those  spoken  of,  in  the  upper 
parts  of  the  province.  This  is  called  the  village  of 
Beauport.  As  it  is  situated  at  some  height  upon 
the  gradual  slope  of  the  land  towards  the  St. 
Lawrence,  a  view  is  obtained  from  any  part  of 
the  village,  of  Quebec,  the  harbour,  the  course 
of  the  river,  and  the  island  of  Orleans.      <»  -  *i 

We  were  treated  with  the  greatest  aflability 
and  courtesy  by  the  Canadians,  into  whose  dwell- 
ings we  made  excuses  every  little  while  to  peep* 
Their  arrangements  are  remarkably  neat  and 
economical.  Before  we  reached  the  celebrated 
cataract,  the  sky  became  of  a  sudden  overcast, 
and  a  heavy  shower  of  si)Qw  in  small  round 
globules  commenced  falling.  But  it  ceased  in  a 
little  time,  and  the  remainder  of  the  day,  with 
tlie  exception  of  a  violent  north-west  blow,  was 
extraordinary  clear  and  pleasant.  ii^>rr};  tii  ii>a: 

Crossing  over  a  toll-bridge  above  the  falls,  we 
had  the  curiosity  to  creep  under  the  banks,  which 
rise  sixty  feet  on  each  side,  to  the  verge  of  the 
precipice,  in  order  iirst  to  survey  the  immense 
abyss  into  which  the  river  dashes.  The  rains  had 
swollen  the  current  of  Montmorenci  to  a  great 
height ;  the  clay  and  impurities  of  the  soil  being 
washed  down  the  banks,  imparted  a  deep  crim- 
son tinge  to  the  water,  which,  breaking  into  foam 
against  the  jocks,  presented  very  pleasing  ap-  j 


niF 


ads  thus  at- 
to  Montmo* 
ed  street  of 
rranged  ex- 
n  the  upper 
^e  village  of 
height  upon 
irds  the  St. 
any  part  of 
the  course 


9. 

it  affability 

hose  dwell- 

lile  to  peep, 

neat  and 

celebrated 

n  overcast, 

oall  round 

ceased  in  a 

day,  with 

blow,  was 

le  falls,  we 
nks,  which 
?rge  of  the 
i  immense 
i  rains  had 
to  a  great 
soil  being 
leep  crim- 
into  foam 
casing  ap-^ 


"»«THM„  ,,,,„„ 


1. 


pearances.    jn  tu^       , .  ^^^ 

Pic^  'ond  ju,t  „bove  the  precj. 

We  descended  the  hi„i,      ^ 
'"-'r  St.  Lawrence    Jf  T^  "''P  »«»"'  of  the 

-'"■ngon  the  beacS  ^^^  °'«'-'--  >  -nd 
or  cove,  which  the  M-,  ?         ^*  P"'"'  of  the  ^.ilf 

■^"ng.  foaming  from  it,    '.!'"""•  ''"shin,, 
'he  level  where      "^^^^''^'^^  height  down  to 

»orenci  exceed  m'^,^  T'l  f«"«  of  M^t^ 

f«et.andarethehighS^     /^  ^^  one  hundred 
--fe/ough  faf':?  "he  °e  A-enca.  Fal^ 

'"a  straight  line  from  J^^^    "P"^^'  "-^ich  runs 
f>«l  furiously  hoi  r  f    *  '°  *'^«  of  the  cove 

f«^n>  "•whole confused .^^     •""  '"'^'-eai  sprav 
^f  -th  rolling  voltetfl -"  ""'  *"«  "3 

ct  ri?'  of  the  cliffs  ::  teTl'    ^^^  "P"" 
carries  a  small  portion  If  lu        '* ""  «q«educt 
mountain,  to  the  wZsV'  '''""^  »'ong  "he 
»' f-w/ng   timbernS.:  2'^«  -'ablishLn 
Oreak  into  the  bank  aniv!        •"■*'  of  the  roct 

2"«d„ct.  great  forest  tree^T'  J^'^*'^'  ««"'  "-e 
°f«"egulf.  appearin^f^rK  f"""^  ""'  *e  verge 

-•*J.le„t  wonder  fo^^f^ 'i^.  """'n^  scene 
endeavoured  to  advance  IT  T'"^'  """^  then 
'femendous  cataract  '*'  ""^  '""o'  of  thi^ 


I 


I. 

r 


y'  :      )l 


I    t 


1 


f    ! 


«v 


1J)2 


PEHMtRTAN  tf>rR. 


The  composition  of  the  rocks  around  the  place 
where  we  stood,  is  a  stratified  fetid  limestone, 
operated  upon  by  the  weather  in  such  a  manner, 
as  to  crumble  into  fine  scales  and  dust,  which 
slide  continually  down,  and  assume  (with  the  ex- 
ception of  colour  which  is  black)  the  appearance 
of  soft  sandy  banks.  The  wind  blew  llercely 
against  the  crumbled  sides  of  the  hills,  and  carried 
showers  of  dust  and  large  pieces  of  the  stone 
with  great  velocity  directly  into  our  faces. 
Providing  ourselves  in  the  best  manner  possible 
against  this  inconvenience,  we  rusheii  forward  to 
a  great  black  rock,  which  hides  behind  it  part  of 
the  bottom  of  the  falls,  and  forms  the  point  of 
what  may  be  called  the  inner  cove.  Spray  hovers 
over  this  rock,  and  pours  constant  rains  upon  its 
glistening,  yet  rugged  top.  The  sun  was  behind 
us.  Our  eyes  were  almost  blinded  with  the  bril- 
liant and  transparent  rainbows;  which  were  com- 
plete circles,  ourselves  the  centre,  increasing  or 
diminishing  in  diameter,  according  to  our  dis- 
tance from  objects  in  front.  Ascen<ling  the  rock 
with  some  danger  of  falling,  and  getting  ourselves 
drenching  wet,  we  clambered  over  it  on  our 
^ands  and  feet  into  the  inner  cove. 

Now  secluded  amidst  fearful  craigs,  shut  from 
the  rest  of  mankind  by  surrounding  and  over- 
hanging rocks  and  the  dense  clouds  of  the 
roaring  water-fall,  a  sensation  of  pleasing  awe,, 
and  admiration  of  that  great  Cause  whose  works 
confound  the  judgments  of  erring  man,  spreads 
over  our  minds,  and  raise   in  our  imagination, 


nd  the  place 
1  limestone, 
h  a  tnaimer, 
duRt,  which 
with  the  ex- 
appearance 
ew  llercely 
and  carried 
)f  the  stone 
our    faces, 
ner  possible 
I  forward  to 
d  it  part  of 
he  point  of 
pray  hovers 
ns  upon  its 
was  behind 
ith  the  bril- 
I  were  corn- 
creasing  or 
to  our  dis- 
ng  the  rock 
ig  ourselves 
it  on   our 

,  shut  from 
;  and  over- 
ids  of  the 
easing  awe, 
hose  works  | 
in,  spreads! 
fiaginatioti, 


ll 


!i 


\f\ 


^ 


ill 


m 


thl 

FU 

roll 


;'    ,  i 


III 


.,  ■{ 

;<•  '■ 

:  ^ 

wougihte,  which  ^^^ 

^fte  exalted  ,t«in,  „"  "^^"^  *^  g«ad  «,«„«. 
!*e'.  I WM  far  ii^  AMn^!^^' '"  '''"<*.  how. 

rtJi'"'  *«  «*»«S  ST/  ■":•* '''"'  '•-^ 
"ots  flj,,ng  ,„  ^  •  ""e  Mie  wheels  of  cha,  ■ 

'«^^«"-  At  nervate  1  ""*"*  <='""*  o^X 
"^.r^  and  as  J  t^^  «■«  into  t^ 


r^i*>Mi 


^ALIS  OP  ,w„,„„^^^ 

*^«»i  the  cleft        * 
^Vhere  the  em^^'''^  ***  *•«•  reft, 


17 


■^ ' » .' 


s'Ag 


ii 


v 


I'l 


I  lf% 


i''l 


Hi 


!: 


f.   ! 


F 


f 


194 


PEDESTftlAN  TOUX. 


the  dazzling  circles  of  the  bow.  A  whirlpool 
revolves  beneath  our  feet,  boiling  and  bubbling 
in  constant  agitation,  and  carrying  around  float- 
ing  logs  and  bushes  which  chance  only  removes 
from  their  revolutions.  , .  5         .        ^     . 

-  With  great  exertion,  and  no  small  degree  of 
danger  from  the  stones  driven  over  the  the  pre- 
cipice by  the  wind,  and  from  one  of  which  my 
comrade  received  a  violent  blow  on  the  shouU 
der,  we  followed  the  rivulet  which  originally 
formed  the  inner  cove,  and  climbing  through  nar- 
row crevices  where  it  disappears  from  sight, 
we  regained  once  more  the  top  of  the  heights  of 
Montmorenci.  We  remained  till  late  in  the 
afternoon,  rambling  about  the  falls,  walking  to 
objects  worthy  of  attention  in  the  viciaity  ;  and 


Mingling  round  the  cnunbling  rerge, 

Erst  the  gUtt*iing  blade  was  rear'd ; 
Shrill  above  the  thundering  surge, 
Warrior's  of  the  woodlands  cried— 
Lo !  a  host 

From  Britain's  coast, 
Where  the  Druid  barona  rule, 
Stems  yon  tide, 
,    Our  fathers*  pride, 
fight,  brave  Hurons,  fight  for  Gaul. 


Valour  met.    Nor  ever  more       '^  ^'~  * 
Snow-white,  does  Moranci  fall ; 

i^ow  his  torrent  looks  of  gore ; 
Now  th'  entangled  spirits  howl. 
Floods  rebound 
And  clouds  roll  round. 

As  the  crash  of  ancient  towr's ; '  ' '  <^' 
Deep  astounding. 
Distant  sounding, 

Loud  the  Mtntmoreaci  roars ! 


?i*»*it»j 


■i^g/ 


G'jm  ~^s««H* 


1 


A.  whirlpool 
ind  bubbling 
iround  float- 
nly  removes 

all  degree  of 
'  the  the  pre- 
>f  which  my 
m  the  shouU 
;h  originally 
through  nar- 

from  sight, 
he  heights  of 

late  in  the 
,  walking  to 
iciBity ;  and 


i  i 

*  1'*  Li  i 

'ikll 


'•'«  of  which  no  h,n       '""'^«'  not  far  a.., 

»oo«  to  th^       "'"*«'•  ""e  rays  of  rK"* '  ""«» 
Canadians  !  '"^  °^  «"«»*/  tL"^'"  '""" 

hour    blT  ''""'">'  P'oughK  ,T^  °'  ^""d 


^i-i^l^-fi ' 


?l*s^Vi 


ftmti^i* 


*•'■  "»e  Unit J%,  ^''^'^  *  P'ace.  whirh 

"  the  Da.c        **'*'^«  <=an  WeJ       ?  "»  ctizen 

-  «f  frej^ot   an?  *«">«  "nSed  t^T" 
"Pon  conquest  r    T^  '"'^^y  hoWi       '^''- 

sudden  an,>  "'"ost  consf«,   '^"eoec  were 

j^pp-xsr:;::'  ^»  ^-SZT  '^  «■« 

Hd.  in  order  to  f    **  "^«'  St.  uZ  "^^  ""« 

"human  Foice    n  !        '""''''•ed  mil«'  \^'^ 
Nnded.  andthel    ''*"   *«  "aJe  ^aw'"'*'' 
."^  P»»the«.;S    "T  «""  fero^ous  w  f"' 
h  '•"'•'•'■hie  sZr,y^  '^''  Pa«C  th       *" 

M    thp  ♦!.■  r*'^  ""ountains  th.      .'  ""^er  the 

*'"•"*  hrush  and  ir^e^^fjhe  rive«       , 
!  ^«  "»  dangerous 


;i 


n 


196 


PEDESTRIAK   TOUR. 


ft 


J  i 


\U 


1  >. 


V  « 


!  ' 


1     . 


I   ; 


raTines  and  dismal  diasnm,  irbich  this  adVen* 
turous  band,  in  a  manner  unexampled  in 
history,  daringly  penetrated.  Montgomery  soon 
after  approached,  and  Quebec  was  fbrmaUj 
invested'  "   jn  \i'iiti^->'  ^\.--":\-: 

It  has  been  asserted  that  the  A  merican  forces 
in  this  expedition,  were  too  insigniiicant  to  have 
attempted  the  reduction  of  a  place  of  such 
strength :  but  it  is  to  be  recollected  that  Canada 
had  been  conquered  but  sixteen  years  by  the 
British;  that  the  Canadians  were  not  quite 
reconciled  to  the  manners  and  government  of 
tfieir  new  masters ;  and  that  some  of  tile  causes 
which  incited  the  southern  districts  of  America 
to  rise  in  arms,  also  created  considerable  uneasi- 
ness and  disaffection  among  the  inhabitants  of 
this  country,  who  were  expected  to^  revolt  in 
great  numbers,  as  soon  as  an  American  army 


th 
to 

Po 
co] 

ice 

the 

only 

that 

enter 


i 


should  appear    within   their  borders :   besides  I  Jegg 
Quebec  was  at  this  time  deficient  in  stores,  and!  come 
on  account  of  the  small  number  of  sofdrers  in  the!  ^g  ^ 
garrison,  even  sailors  were  brought  from   the|]y|Qjj^ 
vessels  in  the  harbour,  and   stationed  at  ^i'liritienf 

5**"8-  Itered  h 

The  panic-struck  citizens,  who  were  beforefjo^g-  ^ 

contending  in  favour  of  the  Am  ericans,  now  raJof  ^,„ 
to  the  walls,  and  volunteered  in  the  general  tleft oivard 
fence  of  the  city.  In  the  dead  of  night  on  thljQ^,  . 
last  day  of  December,  when  most  of  the  worhln^j  g-. 
besides  were  joyfully  carousing,  an  attack  fnmg  * 
Utie  Americans,  although  too.  well  known  beforije  oq- 
hand,  was  plainly  signified  by  the  appearance  fiatcb 


HJ: 


i  this  adVen* 
xampled  in 
tgomery  soon 
wvLB  fbrma% 


'»MT«r^^  ,o„. 


!Tican  forces 
Scant  to  have 
iace  of  stich 
L  that  Canada 
rears  by  the 
i    not  quite 
vemment  of 
»f  tile  causes 
of  America 
rable  uneast- 
habitants  of 
ta  revolt  in 
^rican   armj 
srs :   besides 
n  stores,  and 
»!drers  in  the 
it  from   the, 
oed  at  their 


wei'e  befon 
ans,  now  rai 
^  general  di 
night  on  th( 
)f  the  worf 
attack  f] 
own  befon 
»pearance 


^  the  besie-"     7  ''^"^  ^l'  of  s„o»  I        ' 

«>«  second  barrier  .^T'  '=»"'«'  a  battel!     ! 
^ound  ■  ,„j  Z-      •  ^^^n  he  rec.p;„«j  "-"ery  and 

Meanwhile  Tr^'^^^'r  "'"»''««.  "'' 

"•e  head  of  h';!!"""  Montgomery  „,,,  ,  , 

">-^  banks  of  the  sf?'  """-"^^'h^hT^re''  '' 
P""-'*  part  of  he  f.:  ^'""■*"'^«'  to-ards^a?""" 

"'a„?r'-XX\nV-^^^-^^^^^^ 
-«e jaater  of  the^:^^*''  ^t  "'!  "-ardstrht 

foCsTiT  ""■"  """""'-d  on  the  fl  '"'"^  P'^"^*' 


k 


u 


I     '» 


h  ' 


^.'i 


i 


«. 


1 

i 


1 


ws 


PED£9TIl£Alf  TOTTB. 


non,  and— in  a  moment,  the  brave  Mont^mery, 
and   eighteen  of   his  dauntless  men  were  no 


more— 


'i'i: 


.^?«a*j.f^'"i  ".suf^ 


Colonel  M— — owho  bad  examined  the  bouse 
from  which  general  Montgomeiy  was  killed,  two 
or  three  years  after  the  disaster,  cond^ted  me  to 
the  place  and  pointed  out  the  precise  groond 
where  it  happened :  which,  together  with  the  cir- 
eumstances  of  the  occurrence  itself,  is.  in  Quebec 
nearly  obliterated.  This  gentleman  informed 
me,  that  he  saw  at  that  time  but  two  or  three 
houses  farther  than  the  King's  yard  in  the  lower 
town  ;  that  the  street  extending  nearly  a  mile  to- 
wards Wolfe's  cove,  has  been  formed  by  cutting 
away  the  solid  rock,  and  making  an  area,  then  a 
dillrcult  foot  path,  wide  enough  for  a  row  of 
houses ;  and  that  the  building  in  which  the  guards 
were  stationed,  is  the  one  now  in  ruins  situated 
a  few  rods  beyond  a  naval  store  of  five  hundred 
pieces  of  cannon,  deposited  in  a  recess  of  the 
precipice.  -.^^*^v.  v.  ^. 

General  Montgomery*!  remains  was  buried 
in  Canada  with  the  honours  of  war.  And 
not  long  ago  (July  8th  1817)  his  relics  werCi 
brought  to  the  city  of  Ner*  -York,  and  with  a 
parade  and  splendour  seldom  equalled,  werej 
entombed  in  the  front  of  St  Paul's  Church. 

The  inhabitants  of  Quebec  appear  to  take  con* 
iidertbie  interest  in  the  transactions  of  the  States; 
and  although  they  keep  a  suspicious  eye  upot 
their  American  visitors,  yet  they  are  friendl] 
affable,  and  hospitable.  Their.public  advertii 
mentsand  newspapers,  as  in  Montreal,  are  printt 


L 

of 
so 

tfa( 
tid 

cla 
sho 
and 
»Kac 
tnou 
estal 
with 
capa< 
In 
«elle  ( 
and  n 
canoe, 
veiocif 
the  ^ 

shore, 
she  puj 

and  alt 

^%tfie 


ntgotnery, 
i.  were  no 

the  house 
killed,  two 
icted  me  to 
ise  groond 
^ith  the  cif- 
in  Quebec 
I   informed 

0  or  three 
a  the  lower 

a  mile  to- 
by cutting 
irea,  then  a 
r  a  row  of 

1  the  guards 
ns  situated 
ve  hundred 
cess  of  the 

^as  buried 
«rar.  And 
relics  were 
ind  with  a 
ailed,  were| 
Church, 
o  take  con< 
fthe  States 
i  eye  upoi 
re  friendl; 
;  advertii 
are  printi 


Eng^-sh  'nhaWtanhJ^f'  »''       r  ^^  Scotch  S 
^  Saturday  saij;.,  -  ^^ 

cJa«,!^'r'  «"»  for  the  s..^.?'^-    The 


irith  .  ,.™*'"f.   and  contiDi.-.«       *         lumber 
'"">aJ,neof,Ji.bBjUh„""'^«  near   the    water 

^^  neatly  attired,  se^'"''*^-^  '""^  beautiAU 
^inoe,  and  at  my  , '  !!' ™  f*"*  Paddles  of  thi 

snore.    Wh.i.. ,       v   oanfes  of  n^  '  ° 

she  n.,^  y  '"  ^  »cramWed  u„  Tk  *''*P'»'te 

■^"^  *«er.««^,  'ively  L"^    '*""'' "^rik- 

^  «»'«y  m  her  Mti^^ 


I  ^1  ^< 


ftfef;^'^ 


II -i 


200 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


language:  the  melodious  strains  of  her  vo  ice 
floated  soft  over  the  water ;  she  appeared  like 
the  gay  genius  of  the  stream,  thus  sporting 
amidst  majestic  clifl's  and  hidden  dells:  the 
sweei  melody  of  her  voice  at  length  died  away 
in  the  distance,  and  an  interposing  crag  took  the 
gliding  naiad  out  of  my  view. 

Three  miles  farther,  breaking  through  the  woods 
and  fording  a  small  creek  first  was,  seen  white 
clouds  of  mist  that  ascended  and  evaporated  above 
the  trees,  accompanied  with  a  loud  noise  like 
distant  thunder ;  and  next  the  broad  river 
falling  in  tumultuous  confusion  down  a 
precipice  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet :  a 
triformed  cataract,  branching  like  the  necks  of 
triple-headed  Cerberus,  and  mixing  their  dark 
stained  waters  together  in  one  broken  agitated 
pool.  This  though  not  the  grandest,  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  cataracts  in  the  world.  The 
stream  of  Montmorenci  is  but  a  rivulet  com- 
pared with  the  Chaudiere,  and  notwithstanding 
its  surprising  height,  does  not  strike  the  beholder 
with  half  the  astonishment,  nor  afford  half  the 
pleasure,  which  a  prospect  of  these  falls  must 
create.  At  the  place  of  descent,  the  river  is 
about  two  hundred  yards  wide,  and  lower  down 
it  is  broader,  with  rocks  and  angular  points  pro- 
jecting from  either  shore.  The  bed  descends 
with  numerous  ledges  running  evenly  across,  and 
occasioning  appearances  of  several  water-falls 
in  minature.  A  charming  stillness  reigns  over 
all  the  surrounding  hills  and  groves,  which 
nature  possesses  uncontrolled  and  stiU  preserved 


I  I 


^^C 


\er  vo  ice 
eared  like 
sporting 
iells:  the 
lied  away 
:  took  the 

the  woods 
jeen  white 
ited  above 
noise  like 
)ad  river 
down  a 
^e  feet :  a 

necks  of 
their  dark 

agitated 
8  one  of 
•Id.  The 
I  let  com- 
istanding 
;  beholder 

half  the 
alls  must 
e  river  is 
wer  down 
oints  pro- 
descends 
:ross,  and 
irater-falls 
iifi^ns  over 
^'S,  which 
preserved 


'I  I  i 


\l 


i  ■  k 


m 


If! 


MOMTBIA,   TOlr«. 


*^  *•  fire  and  «eei  of  K  '  "°^ 

'ow^,  and  caat  a  rli.ii    7^  .  ^'^  o*>ove  and  b*. 

"""k*.  Md  the  Jrli      ^  '"'''   '^auty  of  1^' 

X**  '^  opposite  XT  V  ^J*,'^"""..  I  foJS 
£^f^  «««  ^cefuj  £,;/P°^ ';''««.  among 

ne  larger  varieties  ,^r  '  ""'•fi^*  deji.  *  ^ 

""fed  (heroad,and«turn?.v*^    ***  °"*' 
•  ife.m        ^  "**' ""or*. 


fi02 


PEDCflTRIAir   TOVK. 


J1 


I- 


M 


ri: 


in^  towards  Pointe  Levi,  entered  again  the  frown- 
ing baiticnicnts  of  Quebec. 

In  the  afternuon  I  repaired  to  the  great  cathe- 
dral in  the  upper  town,  which  has  within,  very 
superb  gilt  decorations  and  well  executed  pain- 
tinqs,  but  in  general,  the  Catholic  chapels  of 
Lower  Canada,  after  viewing  their  exterior,  dis- 
appoint our  expectations  when  we  come  to 
enter  their  doors.  This  has  a  lofty  front,  and  is 
a  venerable  pile  of  buildings,  adjoining  the 
seminary  of  the  priests  and  facing  the  public 
market  place.  The  aisles  were  crowded,  and 
the  seats  nearly  filled ;  presenting  a  mixed  con- 
course of  all  nations  and  conditions,  kneeling 
and  crossing  themselves  upon  the  bare  floor. 
The  great  altar  was  occupied  by  nearly  two 
hundred  priests,  in  their  white  robes  and  black 
cowls,  whose  voices,  as  they  devoutly  bowed 
and  chanted,  rose  in  one  universal  peal,  echoing 
around  the  walls  and  arches,  and  (prejudice 
aside)  inspiring  the  most  unconcerned  auditor 
with  religion  and  pure  devotion. 

Our  Hotel  in  the  Rue  St.  Jean,  had  a  sociable 
assemblage  during  the  evening  of  well  informed 
gentlemen,  with  whom  the  hours  might  have 
been  agreeably  beguiled:  but  taking  a  candle,  I 
left  the  company  conversing,  some  of  battles  and! 
bloodshed,  some  of  ships  and  shipwrecks,  and 
some  in  lower  voices,  of  governors  and  hydro- 
phobia, and  proceeded  to  my  apartment  to 
prepare  for  the  journey  hence,  into  the  states  of| 
New-England. 


it  * 


i' 


Ua  II 


the  frown- 

reat  cathe- 
ithin,  very 
ited  pain- 
chapels  of 
terior,  dis- 
i  come  to 
>nt,  and  is 
>ining  the 
the  public 
vrded,  and 
nixed  con- 
,  kneeling 
>are  floor, 
learly  two 
and  black 
itly  bowed 
il,  echoing 
(prejudice 
ed  auditor 

a  sociable 
I  informed 
light  have 
I  candle,  I 
lattles  and 
recks,  and 
nd  hydro- 
rtment  to 
le  states  ofi 


.^l.   . 


PDDESTRIAK   TOUJI. 


203 


/■I: 


i  •-■     i  I 


CHAPTER  viir. 

.     /•°^««  CANADA. 


*  f^i.^'^. 


*'>^--r 


^'     »■     *ti        -t) 


'     ''^'""^•y  CtetoW 


15lh,  1821. 


■  h   .... 


f       l'' 


:*fi*f    I 


From  the  parish  of  St  N.V.,., 

i>  h^  *"''»h  settle™  on.i,     .        "  ""aly 

f  becomes  a  rugged  f^!      ^  ""^'du  Loup 

"d«e  of  mountain!  to  ifP*"^  °^«  ">e  gZ 

;«  'he  Kennebec   ivt'f^'".^"'=«"  "-'"enfente 

Relied,  and  is  part  „  "       '"'•    ''  ''  »«'C 

;  turnpike  from  Que  Jto  «  ""'"""^  '^"^^  of 

/•"^d  proposed  enteriurtl^  !r°"°"-  ^>  ""«  route 

"art^d  aarl^.  and  „^.S"^"«f'«nd  States. 

me  of  some  of  the  ob8t,!i^     '  '^''o  forewarned 

hl-an  undertaki^g^afS  "",'  ""fi-^-'ties  of 
N  year.  «'  "'  *'*  ""clement  season  of 

.   Ferried  over  <n  «*  XT-  , 

^-m«es;hl;;\S£^°'-.;'>ichisavi::^^ 

I  ^''*'^' I  proceeded  over  a 


' .' j 


1/ 


m 


>  ( 

M 


t 


i'-ii'  S. 


W  \ 


If 


1 


11^ 


904 


PEDESTRIAN   TOVSL. 


country  at  first  hilly  and  cultivated,  but  after- 
wards one  desert  wilderness,  until  night ;  when 
I  was  accommodated  with  the  best  a  friendly  cot- 
tage could  afford.  The  wind  blew  fierce  and 
cold ;  rain  and  sleet  continually  poured ;  at  each 
step  my  feet  sank  deep  in  mire  and  water,  and 
scarcely  a  house  was  seen  in  the  whole  distance. 
Perceiving  my  toil  was  about  to  overbalance  my 
pleasure,  I  returned  byway  of  the  falls  of  Chau- 
diereand  Pointe  Levi,  and  re-entered  the  capital 
of  Canada,  on  Tuesday  evening.  A  disagreeable 
gloom  hung  around,  and  shrouded  every  object : 
the  weather  was  an  uninterrupted  storm.  Dis- 
gusted with  this  unfriendly  climate,  I  engaged  a 
passage  in  the  steamboat  Car-of-Commerce,  and 
entering  on  board  an  hour  past  midnight,  soon 
found  our  floating  hotel  stemming  the  current  of  Itbe  jsij 
the  great  river  St.  Lawrence,    ^'^z^**  V  Ispeciefl 

This  vast  river  or  straights,  the  St.  Lawrence,  lougcrej 
through  which  the  accumulated  waters  of  lakes  lirhjjft ; 
Superior,  Huron,  Michigan,  Erie,  Ontario,  and  Itjoij^jj^ 
hundreds  of  smaller  lakes  are  disgorged  into  Hie  tog  d^^ 
Gulf  of  St»  Lawrence,  and  thence  into  the  At-leaseJs  n 
lantic  ocean,  may  be  considered  one  of  thelTlie  riy* 
most  interesting  rivers  in  the  world.  Its  lengtblanks  arc 
from  the  island  of  Anticosti,  where  it  is  sevenimetiteeg 
miles  broftd,  to  its  commencement  at  Kingsfe  isnttstii 
ton,  is  seven  hundred  miles.  But  if  the  Straighto^tejYtd  i 
of  Niagara,  of  Detroit,  of  St.  Chtir,  (^St.  MarieW^^^ 
and  the  largest  river  falling  into  Lake  Supcriorppendici 
be  included  tls  continuations  of  the  St  Lawrencel  for  xnai 
and  the  several  lakes  ts expansions  of  thestrea 


t 
h 

G( 

thi 

iiai 

hu] 

iVo 

f 

at  a 

dusJi 

and 

advai 

and  i 

and  d 

selaoi 


,  but  after- 
ght ;  when 
iendly  cot- 
fierce  and 
^d ;  at  each 
water,  and 
e  distance. 
i)alance  my 
s  of  Chau- 
the  capital 
isagreeable 
ery  object : 
torni.  Dis- 
engaged a 
merce,  and 
night,  soon 
J  current  of 

Lawrence, 
^rsof  k^es 
ntario,  and 
:ed  intatlie 
ito  the  At 
«€  of  the 
Its  lengthj 


''■en  Its  length  »,ii  804 

T^""''^-  '"°  *»'"'•<'  five 

hundred  mil»^  ''"^^«  '*'>/«!»       '""^  ^"^ 

^-ntenng  the  Sf   r 

^*  ^  grreat  distant!'     ^'^'^''ce,  ^.e  /irst  n.      ■ 
duskir  k-  , ,  *^"ce,  on  the  n^h/        .      Perceive 
uusKjr  highJa„^     »,u-  .        ^^^"^  and  Jeff  Ko  j 

sels  of  pf  ?'  "''^^  «ome  of  the  hi  .^''  "'""ns 

"^'■«>  of  ^Sir  ''*"^'"'' "-« b^t  V  "'^ 

ketopouSL'^'  "*  «•«' fleets  of   '^P'"*^''- 
L        pouring  down  from  a,  J  'Merchant 

fe  i!!^-  "^  Canadian.  !  '"*"<'"'  "uccoed 
r"»«ine  ou,selv«^l?  '  **  "•""erous  tW 
tWtenidfo^n    *?"**,  encompassed  bv  «  . 

*^  «^;  ^ben  they 


/:     • 


i  i 


206 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


(i   . 


i     '-.  ' 


i.  " 


\f:  .'■•: 


)    |! 


sink  into  low  champaign  borders,  and  the  river 
begins  to  vary  in  its  width  extremely. 

Appearances  would  allow  us  to  say,  that 
Lake  St.  Peter,  instead  of  its  present  dimensions, 
covered  extensive  tracts  of  prarie  land  as  high  as 
St.  Regis,*  and  was  confined  on  the  northeast 
by  the  highlands  above  Quebec,  through  which 
its  outlet  has  at  length  worn  the  deep  channel  of 
the  river,  and  allowed  the  waters  to  be  mostly 
drained.  Such  also  are  the  appearances,  as 
formerly  intimated,  at  the  Thousand  islands, 
where  the  bed  of  the  river  becoming  clearer, 
lowered  the  surface  of  lake  Ontario. 

There  is  a  circumstance  attending  the  pass  at 
Quebec,  at  which  we  have  some  reason  to  be  sur- 
prised. The  channel  is  only  half  a  mile  wide, 
and  twenty  fathoms  deep ;  and  by  calculation, 
less  water  flows  through  this,  than  flows  through 
the  mouths  of  not  more  than  two  or  three  large 
accessary  streams  above.  Some  ascribe  this  loss  I  their 
of  water  to  evaporation,  and  others,  both  to  eva-l  fishini 
poration  and  to  subterraneous  passages  andlFrencl 
caverns  at  the  bottom  of  the  lakes  where  theylagainsi 
are  unfathomable,  and  through  which  the  defi-lare  sai 
ciency  of  fluid  is  supposed  to  find  its  exit.  WheDlScotch 
we  survey  the  river  from  the  top  of  theDiamondltions  i^ 
rock,  the  most  ready  impression  we  receive,  omost  ami 
obse«*ving  the  pass  so  contracted  and  the  currenaand  Jgj 
so  slow,  is  that  only  half  ^he  stream  meets  t 
view,  which  an  island  separates,  and  which  uni 
again  somewhere  beyond  Pointe  Levi* 


n 

te 

da 

pa 

0X( 

up< 
9pr( 
acre 

airy ! 

iay  s 
amon 


^gh  tow 


*  Or.  Mitchell. 


^f*ijii-t,."  Ais.: 


nd  the  river 

• 

:>  say,  that 
:  dimensions, 
id  as  high  as 
tie  northeast 
ough  which 
p  channel  of 
>  he  mostly 
earances,  as 
md  islands, 
ling  clearer, 

• 

g  the  pass  at 
on  to  be  sur- 
mile  wide, 
calculation, 
ows  through 
r  three  large 
ribe  this  loss 
both  to  eva- 
Eissages   and 
where  they 
icli  the  defi- 
exit.  When 
heDiamoiii' 
i  receive,  oi 
I  the  currei 
n  meets  t\ 
which  uni 


/^'«re  'hips  and  bZ'^f  *"'  "oats,  and  .nanl" 
^ted  fields  and  pJeasanf  "' '*'«nds.  cilfi. 

Mo  'r  ^-  »S  1;^"''^.  see;  t 

Above  Montreal        ^  ^'^'"ent. 

tensions  where  thechan?.  •'"'*•  *"•  ""-oad  ex 
<*"«"'&  down    ?he  tr    ""''"'"^'ed-  Cdf; 
^i^e  upwards  Xoul'"^  '^^''''   »'  S 
2"'  bateaux  are  pS,  J"""'  "'  "">-»!? 
"P*""  the  smooth    eZ       '  ""*'  ««  ""ey  entef 
'Preadins  th^.v      ■  ^'"ensions.  fhev    »/ 
acro«  fK  •  *^''»  and  «  wm»;       .  "*   ««en 

■^egu/ar  hoiwe.  of  Can../  ^°  wo'e  do  tb^ 

-O' dwellings  of  aluS't  '"^  ^'^-oho* 

S  *"  '^•^  Ontario  21    "^'"^  '"«"'«  of 
^-"Wewme  wav     w!^  **eaniboats  twist  th- 
"aj'-     Without  farn.      ,  '*"neir 

«  farther  difficulty. 


I 


%i  i' 


^'C    k! 


VI:  , 


U'  i 


h 


111 


208 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUH. 


we  proceed  upon  a  deep  and  very  wide  stream, 
to  the  first  of  the  larger  lakes. 

A  voyage, in  this  manner,  stopping  at  the 
places  of  note,  will  give  the  passenger  a  full  know- 
ledge of  Canada,  which  it  might  be  asserted 
lies  almost  wholly  upon  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence.  *'  •         i^     ..  i. 

The  French  adventurers,  who  came  to  this 
country  two  hundred  years  ago,  found  it  con- 
tenient  to  stretch  themselves  along  the  sides  of 
this  and  the  principal  confluent  streams,  such 
as  the  St.  Maurice,  the  Sorel,  the  Ottawa, 
the  Chataugay,  both  because  the  land  was  gene- 
rally found  to  be  most  fertile  near  their  margins, 
and  the  means  of  communication  was  known  to 
be  by  far  the  easiest  in  canoes.  Many  of  thefirst 
settlers  were  soldiers,  and  many  people  of  good 
condition  in  France,  to  whom  the  grounds  were 
parcelled  in  lots  of  four  acres  in  front,  and  thir- 
ty or  forty  acres  deep  :*  and  this  accounts  for 
the  regular  line  of  houses,  not  only  along  the 
rivers  but  also  along  the  public  roads.  We 
believe  ourselves  in  one  of  the  most  populousi  of  th( 
countries  imaginable,  in  either  of  these  situ-l  subsis; 
ations;  whilst,  not  above  half  a  mile  back,  wel  its  tnii 
will  be  enclosed  by  uncleared  woodlands.    ^«''»  I  baking 

Upon  these  narrow  slips  of  land,  which  tJ  their  ta 
a  certain  depth  are  completely  deprived  of  trees!  so  are  t 
the  Canadians  are  enabled,  with  the  utmost  inJ  the  nob 
dustry  and  economy   to   keep  t^hemselves    iliabourii 

■m'u  I  bread  ai 

«  La  Hoatau.  land  the  h 


r< 
m 

cii 


wa 

wh 

par 

but 

ved 

T 

inaiz 

extre 

fruits 

Th 


^ 


\!y\ 


fide  stream. 


*'«B«T»MN   TODB. 


I/I 


ping  at  the 
a  full  know- 
be  asserted 
of  the  St. 

ame  to  this 
•und  it  con- 
the  sides  of 
earns,  such 
he  Ottawa, 
i  was  gene- 
sir  margins, 
IS  known  to 
y  of  thefirst 
pie  of  good 
ounds  were 
t,  and  thir- 
[^counts  for 
y  along  the 
roads.  We 
t  populous 
these  situ- 
e  back,  we 
mds. 

I,  which  t 
ed  of  treea 
utmost  in- 
Dselves    i 


«»tete  of  mediocrity     u-  ** 

r^  •»  excellent,  tl,at  tlLJl*!  "''"«««.  (for  the 

'"''  '^Pon  the  whole  TK  ,'"**"  """>  doubtfu 
X^  Preference      '  '^"^''^  «>«  'atter  d^ 
^ 'Je  country  admits  nr  ^        - 

cmeiy  scarce;  whiVK         \      ^'^  ^''ees  are 
'-^Jhigh.a„da,^'irot"  "'^  ""-" 

»^thr;:it''^'*-°'^^^^^^^^^ 

subsistence,  ^^""""'y-    Bread  is  thl     ^"^^ 
stence.  and  every  fam.  i,  "*"■  main 

«»  minor  building.  conZ       "*"  "^  """exed 
bakmg.    An  apple  .'^""^"""S  a  vast  oven  for 

'-"J  .!««,,  Bin  '"a,""?™'!'  *i.»r  „p^ 


;•<•:      I 


!i 


i 


t'k 


k    M 


f--"  • 


i  . 


h 


no 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


and  thin  broth  or  milk,  with  evident  satisfac- 
tion. 

Their  dress  is  another  great  proof  of  their 
economy.  Whilst,  in  the  most  interior  parts  of 
the  United  States,  several  hundred  miles  from 
any  sea-port,  the  inhabitants,  to  our  great  shame 
and  their  own  disadvantage,  array  themselves 
in  the  far  brought  cloths  of  England,  the  mus- 
lins of  France,  the  linnens  of  Ireland,  and  the 
silks  of  India,  these  frugal  people,  situated  so 
near  to  one  of  the  largest  sea-ports  of  America, 
where  the  finest  cloths  are  furnished  for  nearly  half 
the  price  they  are  sold  for  in  the  States,  wear 
their  own  coarsely  woven  and  sable  coloured 
coats,  and  their  own  stripped  homespun  gowns ; 
knit  their  own  woolen  caps  and  hose,  and  manu* 
facture  their  own  straw  bonnets.  In  this  ob- 
servation I  allude  to  those  only  who  possess 
the  country  parts  and  villages.  They  are  less 
frugal  in  the  towns  in  which  British  emigrants 
form  a  small  share  of  the  population,  ^ 

The  usual  suit  of  the  male  peasantry  is  a  pyra- 
midal cap  pending  to  one  ftide,  a  round  jacket, 
long  trowsers,  and  cowhide  shoes :  Hiat  of  the 
ladies,  is  a  straw  hat,  differing  in  the  dimen- 
sions of  the  brim  according  to  the  season,  a 
short  gown  reaching  below  their  waist,  and  a 
garment  reaching  to  their  feeit.  On  holidays, 
some  alterations  are  made  with  some  addition  of 
fniery ;  among  which  is  the  parti-coloured  sash. 
.  Idleness  is  a  stranger  among  the  Canadians* 
{iong  before  the  dawn  of  day  w^  will  iind  men 


it  satisfac- 

»f  of  their 
or  parts  of 
niles  from 
'eat  shame 
themselves 
)  the  mus- 
J,  and  the 
situated  so 
America, 
nearly  half 
ates,  wear 
i  coloured 
un  gowns ; 
md  manu* 
n  this  ob» 
bK>  possess 
y  are  leite 
emigrants 

is  a  pyra- 
md  jacket, 
lat  of  the 
be  <limen- 

season,  a 
St,    and  a 

holidays, 
iddition  of 
edsash. 
!!anadian8. 

iind  men 


f^^  women  ali^adv   h     .         "  ^'^ 

^i^^-.  •nd'i  t:J^  -P'^^^^  around 

^  '"  the  variousln  dn   ^  "'""^^  "'^^'^^  enTa 
-r  the  hcH^da^^^^^^^^^  At  a'  p^^ 

er  Canada,  we  pass  suddTn,?.^'^'-  ""^  ^o^- 
settlements  into  thp  r  "^"^l^^y  from  the  Britif^h 

'■ght;  we  leave  the  o^eTo^  """  ''«^''»e«  to 
'"'•  houae  clo«d  and  hi,  «  M^  '" ''"  <*aniber 
"^**e  other  with  h«  L*,"""  «"^'".  and  we 

*«>*  *e  hberty  to  rJL!  '^'"S  »'  hand  I 
-f  »t  ".e  peop,e^eaTi^T:'l''^«»»n'odatio„s  'at 
;  '«>««  house,  and  i  Tr""'  '»''^»."  ^ 

»Pac.ou8  room,  contain  /'^^'''ed  "«»  a  very 

from  the  centre  of  the  ceH."       '.  "•«  ""^  »  wi,, 
"«»'  to  be  lighted  upon  j!  ^'. ""' "  ^'"""e  sto.^ 

kof  the  roon,.L?:;t;;l'"''''^''"P'«<'^' 

f  *««ve8  of  brown    br^rl*'""^''  "Po"-". 
*^-    Compc«u.*  being  S^!!'*"^  """tW 

''^K'^  statjoa  and 


'  n 


;  I 


212 


PEDESTRIAN  TOUR. 


,  i 


'•.•; 


!l 


t. 


fi;  |- 


i  i 


I 


1 


occupation :  the  old  farmer  and  his  wife  with 
the  younger  daughters,  to  trimming  several  baskets 
full  of  leeks :  one  young  woman  in  a  shady  corner, 
to  knitting  with  great  assiduity ;  another  to  sew- 
ing; and  two  others,  more  advanced  in  years,  were 
spinning  flaxen  thread.  The  men  betook  them- 
selves to  smoking  and  to  good  humoured  con- 
versation, in  which  they  gave  me  some  amusing 
accounts  of  an  old  avaricious  farmer  in  their 
neighbourhood,  whose  barn  floor  had  been  broken 
up,  and  from  a  certain  recess,  dollar  bills  and  cop- 
per half-pence  had  been  ransacked.  ^^  this  time 
one  of  the  sons  and  his  wife,  arrived  through  the 
storm,  who  complained  bitterly  of  th^  high  rate 
of  ferriage  they  paid  for  crossing  the  Chaudtere 
in  their  way,  arnd  of  the  trouble  with  which  it  was 
accomplished  at  an  hour  so  late,  and  the  kind] 
people  made  no  scruple  of  uttering  ^sacri  (an  ex- 
pression of  anger)  in  sympathy  with  the  new-lthem 
comers,  .fa  lantut 

The  matr9n  lifted  the  steaming  cauldron  fromldisdai 
the  stove  about  nine,  and  pouring  the  boilinggubjec 
broth  into  the  dishes,  the  company,  with  hats  anJare  res 
caps  at  all  times  upon  their  heads,  assembiefmind  i 
round  the  table*  I  declined  partaking;  anJoftheir 
indeed,  there  seemed  but  a  poor  chance,  wherlind  hojt 
more  than  one  person  contested  around  a  singlraffic 


dish. 


*eexce 


Supper  over,  they  resumed  their,  several  civnacqua 
ployn>ent8  which  continued  till  eleven,  whenls  onjy  k 
left  most  of  them  still  remaining  busy  in  tlfcat  a  h 
large  room.   Each  inmate  as  he  retired,  devoutnembers 


is  wife  with 
veral  baskets 
hady  corner, 
•ther  to  sew- 
n  years,  were 
etook  them- 
moured  con- 
fine amusing 
ner  in  their 
been  broken 
tills  and  cop- 
By  this  time 
1  through  the 
th^high  rate 
le  Chaudiere 


kneeled  before  a  litf  I     •  '  813 

another  n^^cS  •  ^"®'r  wort      a  ,       ^^^" 

*ey  arose.    The  women  1    ''°„"  "'*''•  ''"^e,  L 
"nd  pleased  with  th  Jf^^  ^  ""*  *«  oc^currenl 

.„d  the  kind!    As.^T^'f  '"du^    '"  ^^"""-mn- 

;  the  boiuXbJectionto'tli':^^^.-^  their'^pS 
^.th  hats  ajare  r^^j^^  „f  The  ht^"  '"■'^*»-    ThatSev 
»    assembOnmd.  „,igt„  ^  suppj^  f  ^  qualifications  of  the 
•takmg;   "4 f'heirbeingsitua^'^^'' '^«  the  circumsf«,i 

ou«las.nglraffic  and  other  astjrar""''  ^'*  *"«"«  by 
,    >««P«onofafeS°"*'«"dreta,^.«,2 

several  eJ,„acquainted  ^rithX  E„f,'".'^'*"^»«.  ^nCly 
.ve„.  ''••«4  only  he«,  ami  there  th^*'.*^  '"*"'*«•  «n^2 

busy   m  Aat  a  house  c.„^  1'  'l\*''«  «"ntry  ^1," 

I  ^*"*>«'«"^r  the  place 


2U 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


irt  V( 


i,> 


I 


l< 


of  an  interpreter.  Inn-keepers  themselves  some- 
times, can  but  say,  sit  downsair;  twentte  cuopare 
monsieur ;  "^ankec.  BooRs  have  no  place  upon 
their  shelves.  Science,  tfTstory,  and  the  affairs  of 
nations,  are  regarded  with  indifference. 

As  to  what  some  people  term  their  superstition, 
so  far  as  it  does  not  retard  the  progress  of  learning, 
it  is  of  the  most  praiseworthy  nature.  Often  the 
Canadian  whose  vocation  causes  him  to  mix  with 
people  of  other  religions,  will,  in  despite  of  the 
rebuffs  and  insults  of  the  less  polite  and  far  less 
pious  bystanders  that  are  carousing  about  him, 
drop  upon  his  knees  at  the  stated  hour,  and  repeat 
his  adorations  with  real  unaffected  sincerity.  In 
the  aisles  of  the  churches  persons  at  all  periods  of 
the  day,  are  bowing  before  the  shrines,  and  raising 
their  voices  with  holy  reverence  to  the  adorable 
Trinity.  As  in  other  Catholic  countries,  the  cross, 
the  crucifix,  the  virgin,  and  statues  of  saints, 
emblems  of  their  worship  and  proper  objects  to 
remind  the  passenger  of  his  faith,  are  exposed  in 
all  perspicuous  places.  It  must  be  owned,  I 
perceived  very  little  notice  taken  of  these  exposed 
figures. 

Proceeding  past  a  high  wooden  cross,  planted 
in  a  solitary  part  of  the  road,  elegantly  painted  { 
and  having  the  representation  of  a  ladder,  a  spear,  I 
a  reed  and  sponge,  a  crown  of  thorns,  a  hammer, 
a  wine  cup,  a  human  hand,  and  other  articles! 
appertaining  to  the  crucifixion,  all  handsomely  [ 
affixed,  or  swinging  from  the  transverse  beam,  I 
•topped  awhile,  waiting  for  a  passing  Canadian  inl 


,'i- 


selves  some- 
mtte  cuopare 
place  upon 
the  affairs  of 
ice. 

supersHtion, 
J  of  learning, 
.     Often  the 
i  to  mix  with 
ipite  of  the 
)  and  far  less 
;  about  him, 
r,  and  repeat 
ncerity.    In 
lU  periods  of 
,and  raising 
:he  adorable 
;s,  the  cross, 
s  of  saints, 
'  objects  to 
)  exposed  in 
e  owned,  I 
ese  exposed 


l^l^DESTR,^^    TOUH. 


>ss,  planted 
tly  painted 
ier,  aspear, 
a  hammer, 
^er  articles 
andsomel/ 
rse  beam,  I 
Canadian  inl 


order  to.ee  what  won  WK    .  "^ 

5'"™'?.  and  humminfl  f      "'f*  "''"'  ^is  cart 
consecrated  spot  3f  '""*'  ^^^  <^r^ed  the 

object  upon  his  left'!  b"?V"*^  '"'»*'»'>at  „o,ay 
•  "ackward  nod.  touch!t  1°'T'"»  ■»«.  "e  gS 
•n  his  way  with  »    i  '"*  ^rehead  and  f 

;^'ou.  tenets,  their  ri^'d  o,' '''■T'^'' '°  "•«'>  «- 
Jhich  ,s  not  always  eSr^'"'"'  "^  «'o»on,y 

serve  f«  •        *•"  '■esemblancp  »„  .^     '  "'"«'' 

l„„       *' '"  "•""',  some  annl  "npression. 

'ower  orders,  such  as  1  '^'^'^'"•«  amone  th^ 
^-  '««.  Of  their  ZZJtsi:^'''  '^"o  '«*e 

J^a«.  'vho  are  adepts^*'? ''"^''^'  '^'*  'ess  dis- 
t  ««e<l  intiZtVin*;^ir"r.  and  ^^ 

jwother  counti-v    vL^  "eg*;- spirit  of  th. 

K»f 'i.e  WdthSin*TL^'^  *"  - 
H"*-     "^"^^  -iil TluSf '^^••»»»  Of 

*"""•  generous  and 


m  il 


1 

J 

1 
' 

1 

I'' 

|-  ■ 

V 


',i 


■M> 


3i(i 


rKDEBTRIAN  TOVK. 


afTectionate  both  to  their  own  people  nnd  tt) 
foreigners,  who  too  frequently  misinterpret  their 
words  and  actions. 

Their  politeness  of  demeanour  is  undisputed  : 
yet  the  mere  outward  shows  are  oilen  mistaken 
by  them,  for  the  genuine  art  of  pleasing.  The 
very  meanest  peasant  will  draw  his  bow,  and 
conduct  himself  upon  the  parlour  floor,  with  a 
grace  equal  to  that  of  the  best  educated.  Bon 
jour  is  the  common  salutation,  and  wherever  two 
meet,  whether  acquaintances  or  strangers,  their 
hands  are  respectfully  applied  to  their  hats  or 
caps,  and  the  friendly  bonjour  pleasingly  uttered 
as  they  pass.  This  among  themselves  is  some- 
times accompanied  by  a  kiss,  and  I  have  had  oc- 
casion more  than  once  to  smile  at  seeing  the 
bristly  mustachios  of  an  old  savage  looking 
Frenchman,  applied  thus  to  the  blooming  lips  of 
a  delicate  Canadian  mademoiselle. 

By  reason  of  the  abundance  and  low  price  of 
wines  and  spirits,  many  otherwise  excellent 
Canadians,  are  while  under  their  influence,  ill 
natured  and  hostile.  Even  in  such  a  temper  of, 
mind,  they  conduct  themselves  with  a  suavity  of  { 
manners,  entirely  different  from  the  boisterous 
intoxication  of  their  Anglo-neighbours.  The 
glass  circulates  freely  at  their  convivial  meetings, 
and  adds  zest  to  the  dancing,  the  songs,  and 
music  of  violins,  to  which  they  are  peculiarly! 
attached. 

There  was  a  wedding  in  a  respectable 
near  the  place  where  I  stayed  at  Montreal,  wbi< 


ump 

red, 

oftht 

moui 

The«< 

H^boJe 

atone 

to  the 

The 

pear  to 

ded  int 

Pable 


>le  nnd  to 
rpret  their 

ndisputed : 
I  mistaken 
ting.  The 
bow,  and 
>or,  with  a 
ited.  Bon 
lerever  two 
igers,  their 
eir  hats  or 
gly  uttered 
»  is  some- 
ive  had  oc- 
seeing  the 
re  looking 
ning  lips  of 

m  price  of 
\  excellent 
luence,  ill 
.  temper  of 
I  suavity  of 
I  boisterous 
>urs.  The 
il  meetings, 
songs,  andl 
peculiarljj 


^va»  kept  un  f  ^' 

"ffBT:  for  the  windo^,  wt       "  '°  ''°"=««' 'he 
"'ted  frieml.  were  ZL        °'^"'  """^  "^e  *». 

J"«  'adie..  i„  w^^;  j^;^^'-  parsing  pop„,.^^ 

<'••««»«*,  and  the  eentlmr  f"*^  ««"'*>'  head- 
«-he,.„oco„.pa^  S' ;"-•;;  r-'h  frock  coau  and 
"O'ce.  in  rotation.  '"»'""nenu  with  their 

Great  feasts  and  r^-  ■  ■     " 

'he  first  da,  of  M.y/ZX^V^"''  "*'"  <"• 

Peasant,  assemble  near  the    k?"  ""*  ''"PPJ' 

'%  most  esteem,  or  then  r    "^'^^  "^  "^  man 

°' ■»■'*«».  and  ^ect  t?'''"''^*«>compar 

-"  colours,  a  loftvMl      I"  '"*'"'"  '^^Sy- 
Re-nage  receivXt'^S  V  ''^  """"S 
'"">«.   whilst  the  TaTM         ''"'"''""  '"tr^h. 
""Phantl,.  supported  'fK*':***""  ''  """^l  ti 
-d.  blue.  .nd,X^pt:!;ta''°"''':'  "^  'P'^-Oid 
»f'hecompass.nearthrmddr^'^*'°'''P<>««» 
™0"nted  by  a  bush  of  tK  !"'"1."'^  ">ps  sur- 
These  poles  may  be  oblerv  w    "'  "^"'"^  '««• 
-hole  country  .'some  thTnl  Tl""'  "^^  «'« 
^'  one  end.  and  some  planted  i„t    °'"^'  """^ 
'o^he  pe«on's  „,nk  to  whom  th    "''  '"""''^'''e 
The  militia  regulation?ofr  ^  ""'  ^""^^^ 
pear  to  fee  well  observed     ru"""  ^'"""'»'  «P- 

•  *fioucheUe. 

19 


!i'!. 


i. 
f 


I' 


f, 


1         J  ■ 


•I  I 

I  fi- 
ll 


'1 

'II 


318 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


In  each  division  there  are  about  one  thousand  mi- 
litia; and  out  of  them  all,  a  body  of  two  thousand 
men  who  hare  no  families  are  chosen,  denomi- 
nated the  incorporated  militia,  are  handsomely 
equipped  by  government,  and  kept  in  a  state  of 
discipline  that  warrants  great  reliance  upon  their 
exertions  in  the  defence  of  the  country.  ^  *" 
It  is  doubtful  whether  the  Canadians  would 
not  fight  as  resolutely  for  their  present  privileges 
and  mild  government,  (if  a  certain  idea  could 
be  exce))ted)  as  the  Americans  were  formerly 
compelled  to  do,  in  resisting  the  oppressive  edicts 
and  aggravations  of  the  very  same  rulers.  Should 
we  judge  from  their  contented  and  unambitious 
modes  of  living,  and  the  little  concern  they  give 
themselves  about  their  trans-Atlantic  masters, 
we  might  conclude  that  they  are  as  happy  a  peo- 
ple as  any  the  earth  contains.  Allowed  the  full 
exercise  of  their  religion,  protected  in  the  pos- 
session of  their  property  and  their  rights,  and  re- 
quired to  pay  scarcely  any  tax,  except  the  trifle 
given  to  the  seigneurs,  and  the  twenty-sixth  part 
of  the  grain  to  their  priests,  which  encourages 
agriculture  rather  than  oppresses  them,  they  seem 
neither  to  wish  the  power  of  altering  their  situa- 
tions, nor  scarcely  to  desire  the  liberty  of  fram- 
ing their  own  laws  and  government.  The  con- 
quest of  Canada  by  the  United  States,  is  a  cir- 
cumstance not  very  desirable  on  our  own  part, 
nor  is  it  so  very  readily  to  be  accomplished. 
Experience  has  shown  that  the  inhabitants  would 
rather  assemble  under  the  banners  of  their  old 


»";  V 


»and  Rii- 
housand 
denomi- 
dsomely 
I  state  of 
)on  their 

s  would 
rivileges 
!a  could 
formerly 
ve  edicts 
.  Should 
mbitious 
hey  give 
masters, 
>y  a  peo- 
i  the  full 
the  pos- 
I,  and  re- 
the  trifle 
lixth  part 
courages 
bey  seem 
eir  situa- 
of  fram- 
rhe  con- 
is  a  cir- 
wn  pant, 
nplished. 
;tts  would 
their  old 


^^^ESTIIMN    TOUR. 


-««««    TOUR 

^onquerers,  than  uni,^  '  "* 

*f»'»"r  reminded  bv  thl  Z  *'  ""^  are  con- 
"y  babiiimentsof  B^r  !''""  ^"^'^  and  d^ 
PeriZ     I  '""°»e  *em  to  Wt  r*  "•"««»«»e 

<>'^-na«o„3„/r,,S.S™';f''<^a'^'^" 

*  ne  provinces  of  FTw.  ^' 

"1!"'  '«  «  ^-yj^ar:'""'  ^"--'Canada  « 
^f  «'eat  Britain^  ^^',  ^^'^"««  *»  the  trea,'' ' 

a  country,  where  the  t»\    ^      ^  '"aintained  in 

^oje  of  nations,  that  the  wl^^^^^^^  ??^'P^e  in  the 
's  the  wealth  of  fK^        health  of  theindiv  ,i     . 

tensive  tru^  !    ^  ^O'nmunitv  •  ^Z         ^^^^^^ 
"ive  trade  between  th         "^  *  ^^^*  as  the  ^v 

*ose  of  Great  R  !      ^  P^*^*  of  Can«^ 
loads  of  ®"*a"i  and   Ir«i  \.     ^'^^  a«d 

^^n^r^r '''''^''  '"*o  the  hands  'r"^'  """^^  <^««t 
to^neral  income  nr«r^  *  ^'^  "nerchanf.  *u 

and  in   fK.  ^®^^''nnientm„«fK        ^**'»e 

"  "»  this  manner  f h«  ^  ^  *^ 'ncreaser» 

^'lis  country  is  th«    T^^^a^as? 


If, 


\i      ^ 


I]       h' 

t      11 : 


ff 


i 


220 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


^^  It  18  surprising  what  hosts  of  emigrants  land 
every  year  at  Quebec,  and  spread  from  that  port 
over  the  broad  territories  of  America.  Ships 
proceed  to  Europe  with  their  cargoes  of  lumber, 
pearl-ashes,  dye-stuffs,  furs,  and  -skins,  and  re- 
tu.n  in  ballast,  but  with  decks  swarming  with 
the  poorer,  and  indeed  the  most  substantial 
classes  of  those  kingdoms.  They  are  seen  as- 
cending in  the  steamboats,  the  wheels  of  which 
turn  laboriously  up  the  current,  and  the  St  Law- 
rence groans  beneath  the  weight  of  accunftulated 
numbers.  Then  they  are  to  be  met  with,  walking 
in  groups  or  riding  like  caravans,  upon  all  the 
roads  which  diverge  from  Montreal,  dther  to 
Albany,  or  up  the  great  Ottawa,  or  along  the 
shores  of  Erie,  and  almost  to  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi  river.  -v'^,^^^-^ 

Two  prominent  objects  of  cotisideration  in 
Canada,  are  the  fur  and  timber  trade.  The 
timber  trade  is  acknowledged  by  many,  to  be  a 
detriment  to  the  true  interests  of  the  country ; 
as  the  ablest  men  who  might  be  advantageously 
engaged  in  tilling  or  clearing  land,  are  employed 
part  of  the  year  upon  rafts,  and  during  the  win- 
ter, are  carousing  upon  the  money  which  they 
can  so  quickly  earn.  If  it  is  an  injury  to  Canada, 
it  must  also  since  there  are,  or  rather  have  been 
almost  an  equal  number  of  Americans  engi^ed, 
act  as  an  injury  io  the  greater  prosperity  of  the 
Stateof  .New- York;  and  ^erefore  Uie  late  bill 
against  American  lumber,  which  has  been  pas- 
sed by '  their  government,  is  not  so  great  a  cause  I 


lik! 


^57IT' 


rants  land 
that  port 
:a.  Ships 
of  lumber, 
i,  and'  re- 
ming  with 
lubstantial 
I  seen  as- 
B  of  which 
B  St  Law- 
::untulated 
[1,  walking 
n  all  the 
efither  to 
along  the 
[iks  of  the 

oration  in 
ide.  The 
y,  to  be  a 
country ; 
ntageously 
employed 
;  the  win- 
bich  they 
o  Canada, 
have  been 
» engaged, 
rity  of  the 
\  late  l>ill 
been  pas- 
iat  a  cause  i 


•   J  he  fur   trade,  wh.Vh   ■ 

wiporated  comMni«     •  "•  ""S'os'ed   by    ,„ 

2  V  Fre„chre^"^-«  'ndiv.dua,„  IZ 

y>  unlike  the  hauRht^L,  '""''«-*  '^^'nean. 
«;"'»  the  affections^  ftt^!""«^  «>' £nglish„en. 
*;•»«»  Peneti^te  tho.1  ,IT'  *"•*  ^^We;. 

.,"«  Sreat   I^kj^/^T^*^.  extended  o"ef 

*e  nver  St.  Louis  or  mL     "'""*''  '^^^'-ed  by 
°n  'he  Atlantic  sirl-     *»'««'ss.ppi,  and  excem.v. 

f;'«sh  coion::s:''^CeW-^"--ss 

^°«n,erce  With  the  I„dr„!l'*^  *"*  P«>fi««l.le 
*°on  settled  and  forf,        '  *^'*  territories  w*.- 

-<«.  '•«"  -ere  f/Sr,-;ablished.t  "S 

*«  ™'»«fiatevicini  fo?,^  **  '«««ve8.  from 

'«««*  the  animals  b^om  *'  ''"'^'"«"'«  =  till  a^ 

peltry.     They   were    snm  T-  ^^  ^<^''ect  the 

^y  Frenchmen,  .,1  ^2;  ""    ''^-'"Pani^ 
;°»g  voyages  of  fifteen  „„„{•  *«'»«eires.  made 

''- *o  the  husiness/aXilTr''""'^  *eir 
•"•"■•bm  „,„,.,  "**'V  Hot  their  for. 

»•*-  "»pr«„,  1.**' *"•>  '«•'*  w,lf  S?  f  «^  "»'•<•  S..,.^ 


ft»      '    V 


'■( 


SS2 


PEDESTRIAN   TOUR. 


■I 


I 


I    i  li:   k 


\: 


I 


mer  cirUized  manners:  this  gftve  rise  to  the 
Coureurs  de  bois,  or  voyageurs,  who  are  at  pre- 
sent BO  instrumental  in  operating  under  the  clerks 
and  agents  of  the  Northwest!  Company,  and  by 
whose  means  those  vast  extents  of  country  have 
been  explored,  which  would  otherwise  have  re- 
mained unknown.  The  plans  and  arrangements 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  Northwest  Com- 
panies have,  through  the  ambition  of  Lord  Selkirk, 
clashed  with  each  other,  and  lives  have  been  lost  in 
many  severe  contests  in  remote  quarters.  The  dif- 
ferences are  now  nearly  adjusted.  Mr.  MacGil- 
livray,'  who  resides  at  Montreal,  is  the  principal 
of  the  Northwest  Company.* 

Another  important  species  of  trade  exists  in 
Canada,  or  more  properly  between  that  coun- 
try and  the  United  States;  and  this  is  the 
contraband  trade,  in  which  the  illicit  actors 
enrich  themselves  in  the  face  of  the  laws  and 
constitution  of  both .  Amongst  other  blessings 
enjoyed  by  Canadians,  they  are  furnished  as 
other  subjects  are,  with  certain  goods  at  a  very 
low  rate,  and  like  fellow  subjects,  are  obliged  to 
pay  extraordinary  prices  for  East  India  produce, 
which  in  the  United  States  is  comparatively 
cheap. 

Upon  such  an  extent  of  border  as  exists  upon 
the  Canadian  line,  it  would  be  impossible  to 

*  **  The  NorthwestfCompany  employs  about  2000  vojageun.  The 
rctuniB  amount  annually  to  about  106,000  beaver  tkinii,  2100  bear 
skins,  5500  fox,  4600  otter,  It^OOO  mosquasb,  32,000  marten,  1800 
minx,  6000  linx,  600  wolverine,  1600  fiiber,  100  rackoon,  3800  wolf, 
700  elks,  and  2000  deer  skins. '' 


rifle  to  the 
are  at  pre- 
r  the  clerks 
ny,  and  by 
mntry  have 
sehave  re- 
rangements 
iwest  Com- 
>rd  Selkirk, 
been  lost  in 
s.  Thedif. 
r.  Mac  Gil- 
e  principal 

exists  in 
hat  coun« 
his  is  the 
icit  actors 
laws  and 
r  blessings 
nished  as 
at  a  very 
obliged  to 
L  produce, 
paratively 

ists  upon 
^ssible  to 


"*'="«M»r  row, 
.feep  a  strict  ,ratcb„  ««3 

**'e  P'^eceedinff  -mk        *  ^^  ®«PeciaJiv  ^ 

^  « the^r'p    '"'  ""^  nook  oel!?'""'*^ 

L  c*  ,  .'"P'«'n.  across  fh»  k  *"* '•ead 

P  St.  John's.    Herp  ffc  •'oimdarr.  ,.  &, 

h*ed  their  boaU^^'t  '^'"''''  *»'  *«  ^^1  Pr^ 
kre  secretjj.  landS  .i^'''^'*^''»S-    The  cbLt 

itrr  *Vsi2sr  *«  "eip  Oft:; 

^""ff  the  night  to  the  basfn  rA'^*"^  '"«« 

tea  was  safely  ,t 


■I 


?  \- 


234 


PEBESTRIAN   TOITR* 


t  ' 


'  )■": 


'i. 


Ml  !,= 


S  V 


I 
t 

i- 


r 

ll 


and  a  cargo  of  potatoes  carefully  strewed  above 
them.      The    custom-house    officers  however, 
were  upon  the  look  out,  and  before  they  had 
rowed  many  miles,  they  were  hailed  from  the  shore, 
and  an  examination  of  their  cargo  demanded. 
Not  dismayed  with  the  demand,  they  continued 
forward  with' the  aid  of  the  current,  pursued  on 
the  banks  by  the  angry  questioners,  till  evening, 
when  they  ran  the  boat  ashore,  and  quickly  trans- 
ported the  boxes  to  the  solitary  house  of  an  old 
acquaintance.     But   the    officers    crossed  the 
river,  and  instantly  demanded  admittance  into 
the  house.    Whilst  they  were  waiting  for  rein- 
forcements to  stave  the  door;    those  within  let 
the  tea-boxes  down  through  the  floor,  and  escap- 
ing by  the  same  apperture,  conveyed  them  out 
of  a  broken  cellar  window,  to  the  woods  back  of 
the  hous^,  whilst  the  officers  overhead  were  dili- 
gently engaged   in  searching  every  room  and 
closet,  for  smuggled  articles.    They  departed, 
leaving  a  man  to   reconnoitre :  but  this  person 
had  certain  reasons   for  looking  another  way, 
and  appearing  a  little  deaf,  as  noises  accompa< 
nted  by  low  voices  sounded  from  the  wood,  and 
a  boat  T  .     heard  to  push  from  the  shore.     The{ 
smugglers  .  ached  Montreal  the  next  night,  am 
dividing   nemselves  into  parties,  carried  theii 
goods  to  1  house  in  the  centre  of  the  town.    Ai 
oneo*clcjk  they  were  aroused  by  a  loud  uproai 
and  looking  out,  found  the  house  surrounded  b] 
soldiers.    Admittance  was  demanded  instant); 
The  master  of  the  tea-chests,  opened  his  window 


5wed  abore 
8  however, 
e  they  had 
m  the  shore, 
demanded. 
^  continued 
pursued  on 
till  evening, 
lickly  trans- 
se  of  an  oid 
crossed  the 
ittance  into 
ng  for  rein- 
>e  within  let 
,  and  escap- 
d  them  out 
)0d8  back  of 
d  were  diii- 
room  and 
y  departed, 
;  this  person 
lother  way,  I 
es  accompa- 
e  wood,  and! 
shore.  Thel 
:t  night,  an( 
carried  theii 
■i  town.  A( 
loud  uproar 
rrounded  hi 
ed  instantly 
his  windoi 


and  the  voice  of  a  ^*^^ 

'"'«  from  the  street. '"'''^'""'^^"^^  <>^icer  saluted 
Officer.  «Ah»  Mp   p 

^nformed  you  have  'beeT'tr''  "^'^  ^^" '  ^  ^^ 
^^«n   upon  a  sweepi„r  '7  '*^'   '^^  »>"s,ne88 

^^nttoseewhatyouCbro     L'"'"''  ^^"^-' I 

«^e  you:  but  really  as  III'  '  T  '^J^^'^^d  to 

f^«^^^  ^hat  your  SUSP  don  r  '?^'^""^'  '  -«" 

^^««-     My  quiet  as  tsZllJ    '"''^'"'^^  ^^^""d- 

;"^ertainer.  cannot  be Tsturb'  ^l'  ''''  ''  -y 

^;on  at  this  hour.   Ifyouhl     ^^  ''^^^"^  intru- 

'''  <^«'i  We  at  ei.h  and  ''r^ ''^"  ^^'^  ^^^irin^ 

occasioned  my  visit  'ere''  ^:'''''-  ^^^t  has 

^eofficersentthea^dJ   "  ' 

?e«t  attention  was  of .  '  ^^^^^ '  ««d  dili. 


Ki    i 


226 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


^•t  tj  ,:k\f. 


V  M 


n 


if 'a  *. 
JIs, 


i 


Mt 


,^1 


:  iiu 


1.^3: 


ill 'Ml        f:: 

'    ■    f  Hi.'. 


i,    3 


V.         uv  AH    CHAFfERIX. 


^IjTV'ji'    'i. 


»-:  t"^m0 


ROUTE  FROM  QUEBEC  TO  BOSTON. 


' '  r ; 


fU.  Tf  i  /^?ti  .'       Wednesday  Ocl'>ber  17th,  1821. 


*..^4  ^,H 


v  Our  vessel  continued  to  advance  speedily  I tages, 
against  the  opposition  both  of  wind  and  current.  Ijojfu J] 
The  dawn  opened  with  a  few  scattered  clouds,  Igrassj' 
whose  resplendant  hues  increased  the  loveliness |the  eyt 
of  a  fair  morning.  The  river  banks,  bespan-ping  tii 
.  gled  with  villages,  chapels,  and  files  of  whitevoes  a 
houses,  reflected  the  sloping  sunbeams  inlns;  an 
superior  beauties,  and  served  in  part  to  dispeve  wai 
the  gloomy  impressions  the  foregoing  stornivoored 
had  created.  We  met  rafts  of  the  largest  size!  i^assin 
slowly  floating  with  their  unwieldly  weighp^  son 
down  the  stream,  well  furnished  with  cabinJ^t  in  t] 
flres,  cooks,  and  crowds  of  men  regularly  splashf^bic  st 
ing  their  oars  in  the  water.  Most  of  the  rafi  came 
are  from  the  bay  of  Quinty,  and  are  several  inn  m 
months  in  descending  to  Quebec.  fi^adian . 

Two  hours  after  midnight,  we  stopped  at  Wipented 
liam  Henry.    The  fort  was  built  in  1665.  TPcifixes 
houses,  which  are  spread  over  a  sandy  level,  al^  instil 
numerous  and  uniform.    There  are  two  churchf^evotion 
and  in  one  of  them   I  saw^  in  the  momiDg,F>e  dem< 


»EBE«TR,A^    TOUR. 


model  of  a  shin    r 

•»^«  if  ie  wa,7chaT;eLr  h'*'  ''"•"  ">«  --'- 
S"--*'  or  Richelieu  river  «  It.  '"^  ""««''  ">« 
sccount  of  the  ^^t  "*  """"f*.  whirl.  «„ 

;'n<l".g  banks  of  that  p'la'T'   """^  "'« 
P*""  to  IH!  the  case  i^T"'  "'*""'•    As  ap- 

-- in  Canada.  ^T  *  ^  -'"'»  "ear  th'e 
«f 'he bank,  following  tZTJ^."'^''  "'««<*«« 
2'  7  «Sani  to  short  cutor  '"^'''''S''  -"h- 
^e.  brisk,,,  alive  with  S  o.     ""^""'"^  ^ot. 


«ce  speeauy  |«ges.  briskly  alive  with  Tk         '-•"n^rtable  cot 
and  currentlo,fn„3,  sporti„/J"iJ-^ occupants,  -"o  are 
tered  cloud..|™8sy  declivities   sLnA     ^   ^"^^^  "Pon    the 
he  lovelinessllhe  eye  at  eve^Iho^       "'^"  ^''her  shore    and 
ks.   ^.-»-h«n-covererr^2r"^:-'"'ed  by  tl;^? 
.lesofwhieioes    are  paddling  about'^'^"'°"*''"'''ges.    Ca- 
u„b«.m.    .>!».,  and  rigged  vLels  of  con^H  ""  "^  ^'""di. 
,art  to  d.spA«  wafted  up  and  down  TIT''  ''""^^^ 
!0,ng  stonn*oored  at  the  wharves.  ^"  '"^^^    "^  iyhg 

largest  sizel  i^assing  in  succ 

ildly    weigl*..  someof  the  0^1*  ""!?"'"' "'""mall  vill, 

with  cabinAst  in  the  countl   ", M      °'  '^'"'=''  are  the  i'" 

alarlysplasAhic  style.   wiS^a'l  doTt,'^"'"'""'''^  bui/tt 

of  tbe  ra|c.„e  in  the  eve^  ^tf  4'  ''""^  'P'- 

are  sever*  inn  might  be  call  J  Antoine,  wher* 

Jnadian^«4,,^,SXr=^kablygo;,,;-; 

pped  at  Wfnented  with  tinsel  ,.n*''^'^curiouslv  or 
n  1665.  TJ-cifixe,  ,nd  ^^^''ZTT'"""  "^  ^^^ 
dy  level.  J  mstil  i„  «,  „»^;    -J-h  however,  co^ 
*och»rch*evotio„.    After  bwt"™[  °'^'»ar,  de„.ree     ' 
'  'norn.ng,pedemoi«,,ieg  „f  j^jJS  ""*  the  candle,  one 
I  »e.  as  was  custom- 


t'     .'ll 
'•J    -f 


■  f       'll 


1 1* 


I 


f^'1 


hi 


928 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


ary  peshaps,  came  in  for  the  fine  silver,  or  ai 
any  rate,  plated  candlestick,  which  by  the  light 
of  the  nnoon,  she  at  length  found.  Our  north- 
ern fair  sex,  it  must  be  asserted,  notwithstan- 
ding their  sweetness  of  demeanour,  can  pride 
themselves  upon  a  very  small  share  of  feminine 
modesty. 

From  St.  Antoine,  I  passed  through  more 
small  collections  of  stores  and  dwellings,  to  the 
foot  of  the  high  and  rugged  mountains  of  Boleil, 
which  jut  so  suddenly  above  the  level  plains  of 
these  parts,  and  attract  the  notice  of  people  at 
an  extreme  distance. 

After  receding  a  little  from  the  river,  and 
crossing  a  rapid  creek,  I  advanced  within  sight 
of  the  beautiful  basin  of  Chambly ;  a  large  cir* 
cular  expansion  of  the  Sorel,  about  two  miles  I 
over,  and  having  its  borders  fmely  cultivated  and] 
decked  with  white  farm-houses.  Nearly  oppo- 
site, stood  the  antique  towers  of  the  Fort  or  Cas- 
tle of  Chambly,  and  adjacent  the  barracks  and! 
the  spire  of  the  English  church,  in  the  village  o( 
Chambly.  On  the  left  of  the  Fort,  the  water 
of  Cham  plain  were  dashing  precipitately  down 
the  rocky  c  hannel,  and  furiously  foaming  when 
they  disembouge,  of  a  sudden  mingle  gentlj 
with  the  deep  undisturbed  waters  of  the  basii 
The  wild  outline  of  Scotch  Mountain,  toward 
St.  Johns,  abruptly  rose  above  the  unvariegate 
woods  of  the  baek-grounds.      .   •,    p,    tn.^^ 

The  steamboat  De-Salibury,  which,  comme^ 
ced  this  season  running  from  Quebec    to 


I 


il^ 


silver,  or  ai 
by  the  light 
Our  north- 
notwithstan- 
r,  can  pride 
of  feminine 

rough  more 
lings,  to  the 
ins  of  Boleil, 
el  plains  of 
of  people  at 

e  river,  and 
[  within  sight 
;  a  large  cir- 
it  two  miles 
ultivated  and 
>Jearly  oppo- 
I  Fort  or  Cas- 
barracks  and 
the  village  o 
;,  the  wate 
►itately  dow 
aming  wher 
lingle  gentl 
of  the  basi 
tain,  towar 
unvariegat 

ch  commeq 
ebec    to 


.15 


'/  ^ 


m 


fr 


u 


I' 

I 

I. 


ir 


iM 


■i    ^' 


I 


i?^ 


V^ 


•«<l  m  appearance   h"1  ^'  ^  ''^'  ""a.  piacj 

^;  "''"-'t  cou:;e':,''  r  "r  ''^*^"  -*'S 

•T'^'y'aud  dangerous  c,«2rr""'  "^  ""« 
'•    o   be  appropriated  in  h      ^'"'""f  money 

P"""  of  this  river,  for  a tea^  '^""'^  P-^'^-'ar 
•«7«  of  «hich  he  otrr'*^'  "'^-imion.  by 
Quebec  wi||  t-      "J.""*^  '^ni  Ne*-Yorlr  ♦„ 

'-P-'o-.ndty'rir^"«<^-  '-'""'*'» 
«'able  fortress.  whK.  r  *""'""•'•    ^ho  ve,^^ 

;-"  Object  or  thXts'l?  ''''•''"   '7". 
r*  fo™»  of  a  square   for,    r    '"^'-    ^'  «  in 
.^undred  on  each  Ze  ZT  '"^'''  """  '^° 
2  "»«  corners  like  to;er!    J"!!'"^  P~>««>»« 
'"""on.    A   broad  ar^rr  '     '"'  *^"'''  "e«  of 
°»e  -de.  was  guarded  byT""".  P-'-"'"*   o^ 
Jd  me  to  enter  and  .ur^XTnt  """  P^""''- 
m'ddle  ..  an  uncovered  re^ZT'"''    ^"  »*« 
"-^  about  tbirty.five  feet  7m  '''''     '^''^  ^a". 
^ooms.  ami  windows,  like  Van    ''    '""'  ^«""». 
I  found  the  open  area   .7       *^'  °^  build,      ' 
raenU.  which  Cwl'"^'''*  ""'diersX 
I"   1775  MontgoLeT;  :'  T"  """"'r  '.ashf^ 

l«Pid.nd„oisy  torS  r;''"'""«^'°*«  to  th« 
fc'"  Mt  totn  o7  St     T''^  "»*  ■»P0rta« 
**e  during  the  niij    ?"  ''  /""'  ^'mained         j 
IfroB  Lake  Cba«pJr^„*;j;'"«'  *''»'  -««el. 
'«nd.  .round  it  a^  a  d2  "l'^r'^*«-    The 

B^ead  unproductive  level. 


f  'f. 


»•  i.,H 


f 


;•  I 


1  ' 


J  "I 


^iti=* 


If. 


M 


I 

111 

k 


230 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


Most  of  the  business  is  carried  on  by  Americans, 
who  are  as  numerous  here  as  French  Cana- 
dians. Haifa  mile  farther,  upon  the  bank,  is  an 
old  earthen  fort  with  a  garrison,  which  like  that 
of  Chambly,  has  experienced  the  fate  of  being 
taken  and  retaken,  by  French,  English  and 
Americans.  Acquainted  with  the  remainder  of 
the  Sorel  and  the  scenes  of  Lake  Champlain, 
1  concluded  not  to  wait  the  two  days  previous  to 
the  departure  of  a  boat  for  Burlington,  and 
accordingly  crossed  about  nine,  to  the  opposite 
side  of  St.  John's.  Whilst  in  the  middle  of  the 
stream,  the  Congress,  which  runs  between  this  and 
Whitehall,  swiftly  and  majestically  approached, 
and  I  bade  the  ferryman  to  await  her  arrival. 
With  the  martial  notes  of  a  horn  sounding 
among  the  woods,  she  came  splashing  forward, 
and  displayed  on  her  flying  colours  the  well 
known  stars  and  stripes.  The  sight  was  gratify- 
ing after  so  long  a  separation  from  the  United 
States.        -     .  _  •        ■■  ••   -ff 

Between  the  ferry  and  the  village  of  Philips- 
burgh  on  Missisquoi  or  Michiscoui  Bay,  (23 
miles)  extends  a  horrid  irremediable  morass, 
and  the  road,  although  considerably  travelled,  is 
at  this  time  of  the  year,  the  v^ry  worst  that  can 
be  conceived.  At  first,  a  few  cottages  line  the 
sides;  but  through  the  remainder,  only  two  or 
three  hovels,  for  taverns,  are  to  be  found.  Ad- 
vancing part  of  the  way,  and  percieving  myselfl 
sinking  more  and  more  at  every  step,  withoutf 
the  possibility  qfvbiieaking  throug^h  the  woods,! 


for' 
and 
ropi 

dree 
advj 
owrit 
one 
the  o 
piteo 
towh 
gait  of 

trayed 
spare  i 
'^o  crc 
*he  sar 
^ce,  so 


:k 


■  HI 


\merican», 
inch  Cana- 
bank,  is  an 
;h  like  thai 
e  of  being 
[iglish  and 
mainder  of 
Ghampjain, 
previous  to 
ngton,  and 
\ie  opposite 
idle  of  the 
;en  this  and 
pproached, 
her  arrival. 
1  sounding 
[ig  forward, 
rs  the  well 
was  gratify- 
the  United 

of  Philips- 
i  Bay,  (23 
3le  morass, 
travelled,  is 
rst  that  can 
;es  line  the 
only  two  or 
)und.  Ad- 
ding myselfl 
ep,  without 
the  woods, 


f»:nESTRUK   T0t7«. 


=»«J  in  danger  of  k  •  ^^ 

*-"ed  backf  a   ol,'  /"f„  ''-"ghted  i„  the™.  I 

^•""S  a  canoe    "^d  ^      '  T'""  ""=  design '„f 
r »  "-e  lake :'  Z  ^S''"^  '"'o  the  Z^ 
"^"'•kled  cheeks  were  ZshJ  '  r''^'''''  ''hose 
""•ough  the  mire,  and  LJ  1'""'  ""^  ^^^ions 

ashamed  of  beine  J^  '     ""^   """es,  I   ^.f 
'««'•.  and  again  timed?"'  '^  *«  <"d  genUe 

'«"'  fo-ght  under  "he  ^v"'"'^'-*''"'^  that  he 
•j^volutionary  war  tht  .  '"'  '^'»'«'s  in  the 
J«, "»«/« gri^^md  ^r ?;;  ^--dence  was", 

;'""  he  had  been  s^tS  f  '"  ^^'^"'''"'•fc.and 
ftrmontheottawa,  wh  "h  b jr'"""-  "Pon  a 
'eward  of  his  former  se„f        ''"^'''^•'  <>«  the 
^--7"  "Pon  the  road  S   l",.  "^^  ^'^''^-^ed      • 
•'nd  almost  as  slow  as  ft.       '     '""  ^  ""uch  caro 

Sorwire^whelw^emrt^r  '^""-^S 
dred  oxen  for  the  mart    JT  °^  ^^^^  hu„. 
advancing,     a   gentJem!         ^°"''«»'.  «lo^Iv 
°"'»e'-ofthedro4  whot",  '"    "•="  »«'>«.  The 
?f  "'■''"  men,  and  ^asnfl^'''"  '"'  ''O'se    o 
'he  opposite  side.  6x2;^!,"^'''''  ^""'^ealonl 
P'teous  tone.  "(Ct^^Zl  ""'*"^  '»»  ve^ 

'-^^•^  on  his" lir  1:  '!;^  -'-Se  r: 

fPare  little  sorrow X'  r""*^  P'«'n'/  he  could 


s 


232 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


,'     '  ' 


If'.' 

s  2  , 


I'  ^  Hi 


.        I  Ml 


I    ■■* 


m  , 


I: 


.«;, 


'■ifi  1  ■ 

m 


J" ; 

If' 


continued  rains,  destroyed  it.    The  oxen  sank 
to  their  middle.  ..-  :<^vHh^ 

The  head  of  Missisquoi  Bay,  which  is  a  bifur- 
cation of  Lake  Champlain,  is  a  gravelly  beach,  to 
which  the  waves  are  always  throwing  up  addi- 
tions and  forming  new  lands.  Over  a  small 
creek,  which  puts  in  at  the  head,  is  a  ferry,  and 
the  ferry 'boat  is  a  raft  of  timber,  half  as  long  as  the 
stream  is  wide,  which  goes  over  with  a  shove : 
the  chaise  accordingly  to  law,  is  five  sous  for 
each  person^  Philipsburgh  contains  about  fifty 
German  and  American  families.  During  Sun- 
day I  stopped  at  this  place,  making  in  the  mean 
time  an  excursion  to  some  quarries  of  valuable 
black  and  clouded  marbles  in  the  vicinity. 
Within  two  miles,  runs  the  imaginary  line, 
which  separates  this  country  from  the  United 
States. 


'-•jy  ■ 


t         VERMONT.       Jit       , 


The  sensations  of  that  man  are  enviiibie,  who  I  scene 
has  long  been  a  stranger  from  his  home,  and!  Jife 
who  at  last  beholds  the  blue  hills  of  his  native!  every 
country,  fast  rising  to  his  eager  footsteps.  Thisl  eight 
is  the  case  even  when  the  language  and  mannerJ  season 
of  the  people,  with  whom  he  has  been  associaJ  There 
ting,  are  not  very  dissimilar  from  those  he  is  aboulselves  : 
to  meet.  How  much  more  exquisite  must  bJhere,  m 
his  sensations,  when  he  leaves  behind  him  projects 
nation,  entirely  different  from  his  own  ;  and  of  Iges  an 
sudden,  enters  the  fields,  sees  the  attire,  anlrast:  b 
henni  the  delightful  accents,  to  which  his  earihe  respc 


1^1 


oxen  sank 

;h  ig  a  bifur- 
lUy  beach,  to 
ing  upaddi- 
ver  a  small 
a  ferry,  and 
IS  long  as  the 
th  a  shove: 
five  ^oz^for 
s  about  fifty 
during  Sun- 
in  the  mean 
\  of  valuable 
lie  vicinity, 
iginary  line, 
1  the  United 


'MESTWAN    roPR. 


-.--* 


nviable,  who 
home,  and 
of  his  native 
steps.    This] 
and  mannei 
)een  associa- 
seheisaboul 
lite  must 
ehind  him 
nrn ;  and  of 
3  attire,  ai 
ich  hisea 


J'ea«  have  alivays  been  ..  '  "^ 

«°"  onl^can  have  an  i/ea  JT'""'-     ^'«"  P«- 

^^  a  .vanderer  from  S^^  *'"'  ^  '"'"^elf 
'"-"'al'r  "Claimed"  ker"„'^'  ""'  •"■«  <"-»en 

.    '^''^"anne^oftbecr;""*""-*  ' 

'"congenial  .ith  those  of    Lr''  "■'  "°*  *" 
''^^^e  '»  he  reproached     '      ^""^ri^ns.  as  to 
y«t.  there  is  sonfetE  J  '1"'""''«'  l*^ »"«« 
complacency,  that  ie°t     "'"""«  ""  'he^r 
gfad  to  escape  out  Ti^  """^  'n  American 
;  gh'r  to  his  patriotic  no  'f°^'r.  *at  adds 
Pteasure  of  his  return     Thl  ""'*  '"^""'"e*  the 
^f^re  we  have  resell.  ^''^  ^""trast  is  piai„ 
peasants:  he^.piain":^^^"?'^.  "■""""Lus' 
farmers-There    ^^  ^"le    "^  '"""'"'■^-'"'^'ng 
^nd  grinding  economy,   hir       ,    '^""riou^nesf 
ff" -ous    profusion-The?'  :"  '""""^''»<=«  and 
»cene  revolves  from  centuTv  .        ""'"o'onou. 
'■fe.  busy  movements   D.K^    "  ^^""">--  here 
«''ery  New-year-nere'^t  "l- «•*'•"*.  '''■'"'''g"«h 
l^'Sht  icy  months  of  ;L!      I."""*  ^''«'»^  by 
,;faso„s  equally  ballancX/ "^f f  «'  "  """'^  of 
f  here,  habitations  encfn.  ^      "^  """^  warmth- 
Kes.andall  their ^^1^  ""'"^  '"«»- 
ke.  mansions.  walls.gi!^ricol?    "  ""•*  """""e: 
projects,  rivalling  ihST^T"'^'^'  *"''  "'ghty         ^ 
,««  and  nations.    We  mS^'""««»''gbteU 
[««« .-but  these  are  facte  Tl    """""  ""^  ^on. 
Y  ••e'Pective  Merits  offte co/n'r'  '°  *"'"'^""- 

20  * 


' 


Sd4 


PEDESTRIAN  TOUR. 


^i 


-> 


i^V  ; 


ll)'M' 


m 


ir. 


it 


N'P 

\ 

ii 

* 

1 

1 

the  form  of  goyernnnent,  which  it  is  well  known, 
must  instil  into  every  individual  peculiar  princi- 
ples of  life  and  honour.  .■  ?  ^,  nr    ..-- !»>t* 
A  boy  accompanied  me  in  the  morning,  to 
point  out  the  present  station  of  the  boundary  line. 
I  ascended  the  first  hill  since  leaving  Quebec.  The 
style  of  agriculture,  already  betokened  a  change 
of  inhabitants.    **  Here  is  the  mark,"  said  the 
boy,  showing  me  a  huge  disjointed  rock  of  lime- 
stone upon  the  right ;  and  I  immediately  sprang 
to  the  top,  to  take  an  elevated  survey  of  Canada, 
and  to  welcome  the  joyful  land  of  Yankies  and  of 
freedom.  The  air  was  bland :  the  landscape  was 
bright  and  beautiful ;  and  nature  herself  smiled 
upon  our  happy  country.     It  seemed  as  if  clouds, 
cold  and  storms,  had  been  left  with  Canada,  whose 
horrible  hemlock  swamps  spread  in  wide  pros- 
pect to  the  north.    I  turned  to  the  green  and  finely 
cultivated  hills  of  Vermont,  and  saluting  with  a 
sort  of  extasy,  the  odoriferous  breeze  that  gently 
wafted  hither  the  fragrance  of  the  south,  hurried 
with  bounding  steps  over  hill  and  valley,  towards 
the  middle  of  the  State.    I  traversed  a  variegated 
district,  to  the  village  of  Swanton-falls,  and  pas- 
sed in  the  way,  a  spot  remarkable  for  the  sudden 
change  of  its  geology:  jutting  into  the  lake  was 
a  promontory  of  lime-stone  ;  next  were  banks  of 
sand  sione ;  and  farther  on,  a  stream  was  dashing 
over  ledges  of  slate  rock.    Swanton-falls  is  <rf| 
considerable  extent,  and  is  situated  upon  the] 
Missisquoi  river,  where  it  descends  a  precipice  oi 
twelve  feet.    The  approach  is  through  a  collec< 


CO 

crj 

int 

coi 

ma 

tot 

Can 

Che 

purs 

scufl 

attac 

theC 

men , 

forcib 

villagi 

last,  a 

been  t 

estabJi 

blebus 

AtS 

Poetofl 


nrell  known, 
Liliar  princi- 


->j- 


norning,  to 
indary  line, 
luebec.  The 
ed  a  change 
,"  said  the 
»ck  of  lime* 
tely  sprang 
of  Canada, 
ikies  and  of 
dscape  was 
'self  smiled 
18  if  clouds, 
nada,  whose 
wide  pros- 
n  and  finely 
iting  with  a 
!  that  gently 
ith,  hurried 
ley,  towards 
1  variegated 
lis,  and  pas- 
*  the  sudden 
he  lake  was 
;re  banks  of 
ivas  dashing 
i-faiis  is  (rf{ 
1  upon  the 
precipice  o 
igh  a  coUec 


tion  of  houses  oc       ^  '  ^^^ 

«'«a'-  called  here^'cal':^"'^''me„.  or  a.  they 
tbe'r  customary  m^^"lf'^'"'  ""o.  retaining 
from  their  o.„  a„d  other  1?"?'  ""'  ''°'ated 
«;arfare  ^ith  the  VermoL     '"'  '"'^^  "P  "  Pettr 

*«  village.  whic„«,Sr:;  "  "*  •'"''^^^"d  of 
consequences.    Abolt  elr'"'""""'  "'^"^'^^u. 
»"  old  Frenchman.  returS   T  """'''''^^  ''-''ore. 
f  ""»g  with  insulte  both  K    ^   ""^  '"'«  »'  n->ht 

i«f;-a.„ec,.pe;ce-    dhtr„?"?'^  ^-t   ■ 
^f'  a  sturdy  American  roLr   r"^' "^"«e''ng 
come  off  victor    No^  J     . '  """^  ^''"s  liket  to 
c'-a-d  .ith  the  fumro^s?  ''^"^  '"-^"sed.  and 
"'o  ""e  house,  seted  a  I'T r"'"^"°''  *«  ran 
contents  i„  the  body  „?  7    "\""^  '•"'^ed  the 
«an.    Conscious  o/h  """^"""ate  vou„" 

'o  the  lake  C.'iS'"^'  "«  «ed  d^J 
^«»ada.  the  re^rt,iTeZ"'T'^''°-^  -no 
Cheriot  and  the  Tv^Jdlr  t .  ''^'"'*    between 
P"«ued  plunderer  or  •ttl''^'  ""^^^eants  aTd 
«-"ffle  originated  7rol  t     ""^'^  ^''"«-    The 
attacked  the  8tn,„<,;;    ,  "  '^""""t  dog  wh  cI 
•he  Canadian's  son,  emertain"  '"  '^'"^  ^^P"'^? 
»en  generally  do,  great  aff"'."^'  """^  count,.: 
J-.bly  resented  itftJaS    °"  ?'  '^^  '--I 
;"age.  the  you„g  Amen>r"    ^*  ^  entered  the 
'ast.  and  the  per^t  ator  '?"  '""  '''*''*«?  4 
,  baen  s^,^,,,  ,„  V^^--  under^eood  toU 

l«toW.ahmen,sof  Mr.  Hof  LjJ^  '"''S-  Garble 

I--- -  i-rj-t^in«. 


« 


Ml- 


i*'ii  I 


♦     5 


1^  im 


236 


PEDESTRIAN  TOUR. 


;l- 


I 


If  ■■ 


"f 


If  !    J 


M:' 


il 


•  ^  i- : 


entrusted  me ;  and  continuing  over  a  charming 
region,  with  the  waters  of  Champlain  on  one 
hand,  extending  at  intervals  to  the  opposite 
mountains  of  New- York,  and  the  vast  peaks  of 
the  Green  Mountains  darting  into  the  sky  on  the 
other,  I  passed  through  Georgia  and  Milton,  to 
the  township  of  Essex.  The  hills  on  every  side 
become  more  irregular,  and  the  transition  gneiss 
and  slate  rocks,  project  from  them  in  threatening 
cliffs:  yet  the  declivities  and  bottoms,  afford 
excellent  farms  and  pastures.  .       •  ^  .^>, 

Without  proceeding  to  Burlington,  I  made 
a  cross  cut  among  narrow  by-roads,  to  Water- 
berry  on  Onion  River,  and  following  the  course 
of  that  meandering  stream,  entered  the  centre  of 
the  Green  Mountains.     Here  is  a  scene,  which 
alone  might  claim  the  visits  of  foreigners  to  these 
parts.    The  river  flows  through  a  gap  between 
the  mountains,  where  some  violent  convulsion 
has  rent  them  asunder,  and  after  dashing  down 
ledges  of   rocks,  rolls  past  our  feet,  black  ^nd 
deep,  and  spreads  away  upon  the  left  amongst 
islands  and  flowery  meadows.   Directly  from  the  I  y^f  u 
opposite  side  of  the  confined  torrent,  abruptly  I     j^. 
rises,  rough  with  blasted  trees,  contorted  rain  gul- 1  the  ri 
leys,  and  exposed  crags  of  glistening  mica  stone,  I  „^j.j. 
a  lofty  mountain,  which  we  are  obliged  to  leanl  5^^.    - 
backwards  to   survey,  and   which  has  its  toplyj^   . 
surmounted  by  one  still  grander,  still  more  terJuinip 
rifle,  that  looses  its  proud  summit  in  the  cloudilj^     .. 
of  the  sky.    This  is  the  Camel's   Rump :    thJinten 
perpendicular  height  is  four  thousand  feet  :♦  J*l|iffk* 

*  Captain  Partridge. 


] 
t 

h 

V 

fi 

wi 

thi 

wc 

bet 

she 

tair 

the 

sen< 

sidei 

the8< 

dusk 

tendc 

that< 

as  if 


a  charming 
lin  on  one 
le  opposite 
st  peaks  of 
;  sky  on  the 
Milton,  to 
I  every  side 
ition  gneiss 
threatening 
)ms,  afford 


^^^^STRU^  To^^ 


ih' 


'■if; 


n,  I  made 
to  Water- 
the  course 
tie  centre  of 
rene,  which 
lers  to  these 
ip  between 
convulsion 
shing  down 
black  ^nd 
ih  amongst 
kly  from  the 
t,  abruptly 
ed  rain  gul 
mica  stone, 
ged  to  lean 
iias  its  topi 
I  more  ter-i 
the  clouds 
lUmp :    the 


^•on-cal  peak  looks  g,ey  with,.  ^ 

•I'er  hot  the  season' he^e  ^   ""'''''''">■  ^oZ. 
h's  seat  for  ever     Th        !'"  '*''«er  cli„„s  I 

behind  us  for  reJief     r        """  *°  ^he  /andscaoj 
-';  or  flat  j4":ih'hiroA^^"''^"'  -ter! 
'"'figuresare seen. cleft  h'\      ""*  ""o"  fanci. 
"^hose  white  or  a  u  e  ' '^^"'''""'"^^"•"•ned 

'he.rplatformstbenow'^  ft'P'^^^  '^'''P'V  upon 
-ooda."  and  upon  Xse  sfo?  ""'"^  '^°'°''^«d 
hest  catcle  of  America^L    P'*  ""*'  '^vels,  the 
;heepareg,^„„g,  l^^'^^  numerous  flock.  If 
'a'neer  with  his  axe  l  et       J  ^"■"°'"  moun- 
"'^"'ft.  or.  as  he  '^alT"""^ ''«''«'  «n,ong 
sending  his  voiceat  W     ^,"P'  "P  ""e  sod  i^ 
r-   of   the  Sn^ef  rI'"  ""^  •"-"-ding 
""^.  and  bounding  the  1    **;    ^^^^oPPing 
<«"%  ridges  of  the  ,«ft-  '"'*S'"«^«t  prospecf 
J»M  and  their  tUtrcrr^f"  ''-^- 
««t  cast  a  Jight  tinge  over  thT''  ""''^  '"^^s. 
«  >f  the  last  feeble^Ls  „;  f  f '^'^^ed  scene 

y^l  '"f '•«g«ponthrdti„:r"L'«.^''»  -^^e 
In  the  evenino.  r        ""''"guished  brows 

"arrowfi^^^^n  the  rocks  through  two 

M  of  mills  and  factorie?  t  ''^'"'*  "'" "  »"■«- 
'herto  Montpelier    h         •  '  "^^^  »«  miles  far 

.-•de^tandinglT;**"^"'*'' «'»'-  ut 
K  the  atmipherto  ,  ^"^'  "'"»  ohserv- 
K»«e'r  dark,  r  wen°  """*"'*'^''  ^ough 
h<'^»''esta;,a:dV:he'^-;^''-'^''.tS 

■  the  Aurora  Borealis, 


,■* ,»'/ 


( f 


f 


238 


PEDESTRIAN  TOUR. 


»|J 


iir 


ti: 


^ 


|i  i.       >!  ; 


m: 


'•' 


1 


-■V..i 


•'■■t 


1 1 


which,  like  a  moon  ahout  to  rise,  threw  a  broad 
unsteady  zone  across  the  northern  horizon.  The 
darkness  and  dead  silence  of  the  night  was  soon 
dispelled,  as  I  entered  the  main  street  of  splen- 
did Montpelier,  whilst  the  air  rang  with  halloos 
of  boys  sporting  around  the  illuminated  State- 
house.  The  streets  were  handsomely  lighted, 
the  shops  were  all  in  commotion,  the  hotels 
shone  bright  from  their  windows,  and  all  had  the 
semblance  of  the  middle  of  a  populous  city. 

Montpelier,  as  I  perceived  next  day,  lies  upon 
a  pleasant  bottom   encompassed  by  mountains. 
The  dwelling  houses  are  not  more  than  a  hundred 
and  fifty.     Its  State-house  and  church,   has  the 
steep  side  of  a  hill  for  the  back  ground,  which 
blends  the  rural  and  the  artificial  in  an  agreea- 
ble manner.     As  the  Legislature  of  the    state 
were  at  this  time  convened,  its  four  superl  ho- 
tels were  excessively  crowded.     The  members 
were  a  correct   specimen  of  the  people  they 
represented ;  men  of  large  limbs,  tall,  genteel,  and 
notwithstanding  some  little  peculiarity  of  dialect, 
which  must  be  ascribed  to  their  secluded  situa- 
tion among  the  mount  ains,  very  well  versed  in  the  I^^^Jse, 
art  of  oratory.    From  a  venerable  member,  I  p'^'iin^ 
learned  that  the  bill  respecting  the  judicial  regu-  l^^eise 
lations  of  their  community,  was  under  considera-  ^^1" '  I 
tion,  which,  he  guessed,  would  be  passed  by  a   '^^  ^^ 
large  majority.  ^^^  _ 

The  country  continues  extremely  irregular  to 
the  villages  of  Upper  and  Lower  Barrel ;  the  one, 
with  its  meeting  house  and  cupolas,  seemingly 


the  goo 
comfon 
^or  my 
>ld  fan 


•ew  a  broad 
►rizon.    The 
\\t  was  soon 
;et  of  splen- 
rith  halloos 
lated  State- 
ely  lighted, 
the   hotels 
I  all  had  the 
•us  city, 
y,  lies  upon 
mountains. 
1  a  hundred 
:h,   has  the 
und,  which 
an  agreea- 
"  the    state 
superl  ho- 
e  members 
eople  they 
jenteel,  and 
^  of  dialect, 


'"MT„,^^  ,„^^ 


perching  upon  the  clifli.       .       '  ^^^ 

'he  glen  belo»r    %/'"'•  '""^  *e  other  /„„„  • 

""d  pitches.    sTl?  '"'  '^P^^'^-^ed  on  c.^ 
P^ture,^    Droves  no   oXtfl"'  '""'''^ '"  » 

7'^-°:?  tt\rr '"-- po"'nr::"i:f 

^^rom  Barrel  to  r%  / 

"«s  flat  tumble  towaM.  n,  ^^^s  of  the 

'  oi  aiaiect,  ■     In  consequence  of  »i 
ided  situa-  l-'as  under  the  necess.tv ^   ^"^^'''^y  o'"  mns    T 
.sed  in  the  ll-ouse.  near  the  top  o  '^  °'''°PP'n?  at  a  pri  ' 
.emher.  I    a«a,„ed  h,  ^.nlslTtT"'  -^'<=^lC 
licial  regu-  l^oelsea.    The  si>..o^-  ^^"some  mih^  r 

considfn..  COW:  hut  n,;^- -«  ^'ea..  anTth   Xm 

pgood  people,  servant,    f     '  *''°'"'d  'rhicb 


:    ,11 


M| 


?! 


■A 


'•) 


." 


Iji 


i! 


k 


li' 


ill,, 

V  ■ 


240 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


earliest  settlers  of  these  parts,  whicl*  were,  forty 
years  ago,  an  entire  wiidtrness ;  and  that  a 
brother  of  his,  had  fought  bravely  at  the  battles 
of  Chippewa,  and  Lundy*s  Lane. 

Another  uninicrrupted  descent  of  six  miles 
brought  uie  to  Stafford,  a  fine  village  also  embo- 
somed by  mo  ntains.  A  drove  of  one  hundred 
and  tvrenty  cattle  passed  through,  whilst  I  was 
taking  break fiist.  Around  this  place,  I  observed 
men  splitting  with  iron  wedges,  detached  masses 
of  a  fine  white  granite,  and  forming  them  into 
steps  for  doors,  window-cills  and  other  purposes, 
which  they  did  with  extraordinary  skill  and 
exactness. 

We  bid  farewell  to  the  Green  Mountains  at 
Norwich:  their  obscure  ridges  lay  behind  us, 
whilst  the  valley  of  Connecticut  river  spreads 
before  our  eyes,  in  a  luxuriant  prospect,  where  I  ^ert 
Hanover  with  its  churches  and  ranges  of  coUe-l  ^^^e 
gial  buildings,  adds  an  interest  to  the  undulatoryl  ^^^ii 
hills  of  New-Hampshire.  Norwich  may  bep^arJ 
called  a  town  of  country-seats;  each  being  disJ  ^^utj 
tinct  and  adorned  with  gardens.  The  new  militarjJ  ^^  B 
academy,  a  brick  edifice  four  stories  higbj**^*ti 
occupies  the  middle  of  a  wide  lawn,  upon  whicll^^*'i 
the  dull  rattatoo  was  sounding  as  1  passed,  an(p^co»J 
the  Cadets,  about  one  hundred  in  number,  weJ*^'^^^  t 
collecting  for  the  double  purpose  of  exercise  anJ^'^^>** 
health.         ,        ,  I   for 

With  the  greatest  delight,  I  surveyed  the  darf  ^^''^pc 
and  silent  waters  of  the  Connecticut,  and  stoof  ^'"^i**! 
awhile  conteroplating  the  stream  from  its  over "^'"mi 


< 
c 
V 

C 

as 

of 

th( 

io\ 

hy 

ged 


U  were,  forty 

and   that  a 

at  the  battles 

of  six  miles 
gealso  em  bo- 
one  hundred 
whilst  I  was 
ce,  I  observed 
Lached  masses 
ing  them  into 
ther  purposes, 
iry  skill  and 


i  he  most  excellent  lands  rboS'"'-'^'""H'irc. 
of  the  Connecticut:  and  the  n.  ^'^  '"  '"^  ^"'^ 
communication  from  the    ea  "lTf'"^^'^''blc. 

°4ttr^  ^""^'  -  5hr;tr.rr 

co-it  tdt'te't?';  '^-^  "^  ^^'^'^ 
-  -'">  the  Conneci  J"  ;;"•"-'  '^.  -  .ell 
of  the  celebrated  Green  J^  I  *^  '°'^"^»'  "dge 
^"■^  "ight^  ocean  Si^':t'"«««'«nds.  uL 
"""^'dB  the  regions  of  «1       ""^   ^"^^  ^llow 
Jar  scattered  around     nIT  -^u     "  '^"^'"  "%es 
f  d  aspect  of  these  .e.S'"''""''''"?  *«  --"g- 
-5  andairord^.hrthri!?!..  -  4 


li 


Mountains  at 
ly  behind   us, 

river  spreads  ■  gea  aspect  of  these  «/.r^o'""""'""'^'"^  *^e  rug. 
ospect,  wherel  feHile,  and  afford,  wherfr^'^  '^'^  ^'^  ^ery 
iges  of  colle-l  steep  for  the  plough  II  '^''^^'"''^''^«^^e  too 
he  undulatoryl  ishing  herds  which  ',"'^.  ^"^  ^"  ^^""'^  aston- 
rich  may  bel  markets,  and  which  arp  "^'"^"^  ^^'  *^^^  ^o'-eign 
.ch   being  disJ  south,  and  east,  either  to  m'''^^  ^">'ng, north, 

B  new  militai^  or  Boston.    My  lantn  ^^^'^^''^a'.  A'ew-York 
,.  /I*i,„x.  ^'^■^    'andJord   in   Cfo/v_   ,        ^'^'k. 


.ch  being  dis-l  south,  and  east,  either  to  M^"l^^ ^"^ing, north, 
B  new  militaol  or  Boston.    My  land.  °  **ontreal.  New-York 

stories    highJthat  more  cattle  had  mlZ  Z  ^T^°'^'  "^^^ted 
,  ..^^r,  »K:«iIthan  h«  i..j         ••"Passed  hisdoor  th».  o 


s  new  railitaijl  or  aoston.  My  landl  ^  ."'^'>  JNew-Yorfc 
stories  highJthat  more  cattle  had  mlZ  Z  ^T^°'^'  "^^^ted 
,,upo„  whicjthan  he  had  ever  b^e  tunfV""' '''^''' 
I  passed,  anJ«ccounts  in  the  public  dL7.  Tf '  """^  'ate 
number,  weJand  thousands  passing  ovlr  ^l  n  ^""^"^^ 
f  exercise  anJf'er.  confirm  the  assertion  Connecticut 

I   For  real  romantic  scenerv    h     c 
reyed  the  daifowpetitors.     The   M    7'  "''' ^tate  has  few- 

:ut,  and  stoJuWime.  With  beautiful  ;:S.es";;tr    °i   *^ 
from  it.  ovef harming,  renderit  a  desirable  spotX'^cr"'* 


/•I  If 


lit 


ii4C 


P£D£ST>trAN   TOUIl. 


I!      ,     ■! 


I 

1-1 

j 

y « 
It 


'U 

-  I 

7. 


*■!-!!: 


^ 


live  excursions.  It  is,  however,  too  deficieut 
in  lakes  and  lofty  peaks,  to  make  it  a  Northum- 
berland or  a  Switzerland. 

Until  the  year  1791,  Vermont  remained  a 
separate  and  independent  community :  and 
although  it  had  not  enlisted  with  the  other 
provinces,  in  the  war  against  Great  Britain ;  it 
stoutly  repulsed  every  aggression  of  that  nation, 
into  its  territories.  The  people  bear  the  charac- 
ter of  being  remarkably  hardy,  and  capable  of 
suffering  the  greatest  excesses  of  heat  and  cold. 
They  are  robust,  hospitable,  and  not  very  inqui- 
sitive :  and  we  are  under  no  small  obligations, 
for  the  respectability  of  the  American  character 
in  general,  to  the  assistance  of  the  Green-Moun- 
tain-Boys. Most  of  the  tavern  floors,  in  my  way 
through  the  country,  were  occupied  by  venerable 
citizens,  discussing  at  these  convenient  meeting 
places,  the  affairs  of  governors,  states  and 
nations. 


if*  H. 


NEW-HAMPSHIRE. 


i 


•  ''v't 

m 


•J  ■» 


Near  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut,  is  situatedlfoo^  ^ 
the  town  of  Hanover.  Its  magnificent  housesl their  1 
to  the  number  of  about  eighty,  are  dispersedloftbos 
about  a  quadrangular  green,  and  upon  one  sideJapt  ce 
Dartmouth  college  and  an  adjoining  chapel|B_,.  . 
with  poplar  trees  growing  in  front,  occupies  wioots' ^ 
perspicuous  station.  This  fanious  college  wipcheiiie 
founded  under  the  British  dynasty  ( 1769J  iJearned  i 
•  Br,  Eleazev  Wheelock,  aiid  prospered  t^rowglbejllun 


Mii! 


too  deficieut 
a  Northum- 


^^«    TOL'll. 


!  ; 


remained  a 
unity :  and 
li  the  other 
t  Britain;  it 
f  that  nation, 
r  the  charac- 
d  capable  of 
Bat  and  cold, 
tvery  inqui- 
i  obligations, 
;an  character 
Jreen-Moun- 
•8,  in  my  way 
by  venerable 
ent  meeting 

states  and 


it,  is  situatedi 
icent  houses 
re  dispersed 
ion  one  side, 
ning  chapeli 
t,  occupies 
college  wi 

'  (1769,) ; 

red  throui 


,1  --««    *OL'll. 

^'^«  patronage  of  fK    r^  2^J. 

'»<^cM  withll  tu"  ^''^  ^^  I^artmouth     r 

tTntlr     '""^'•^'   '^ctures  1  '^?'  ^'^"^  ^^^o, 
V^ter  pupils;  and  also  a         "^'^'"''^^  ^o  the 

Resigned  roreornmons    but  r^'  of  buildings 

f'^iy  board  in  the  pub/ie  i"    ^'  ''"^'^»^«  Prince 

^;  institution  are'^exiil  nr^'-     ^'^  ^""^s  o 

f.^«^ds  of  nearly  twTh.T'  ''°"«'«f'ng  in   the     ' 

^^J  annual  incoLZ'^^^^^ 

»7"^ern  parts  of  this  L.  "       ^''''''''^  '«    o  e 

irt^'  ^"''^  ^"  ^be  green   r       ''^    ^«"^*'er. 

Windows    ^r  .1-^       ^'^e  green      Tk      *^'^'®®a, 

P'-'P't^'ith  great  eZlir  "'''""'  '^^'^  "he 
,*:"•  hats  gloriously  n,h  "P"  ''°°'-.  wavj 

g^gen'us  loudly  exclai  It  tr"'  ""^^  «» 
f-'.  good  Dick  B-r»       .   '^®"  ''one  Diet 

'*'^°^«nw  President; 


e 

» 


'I 
1 


Ill 


!^i 


*i    1  ; 

V      .;    ■ 


k  ■}] 


i;i.: 


fii 


Ik  ■' 

I 

i- 


l»    ■  ■ 


■  ' 

i 

X4 

,1 

'4 

.>.;■ 

|;l 

I « 

244 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUll. 


which  the  trustees  had  been  three  days  discussing. 
The  interior  of  Dartmouth  college  appeared,  by 
the  lights,  to  be  neither  well  finished  nor  kept  in 
die  very  best  order. 

My  road  from  Hanover  to  Concord,  capital  of 
the  State,  a  distance  of  fifty-five  miles,  was  chiefly 
over  an  uneven  and  sterile  tract.  Through  the 
sides  of  the  hills,  limestone  rocks  projected,  and 
only  here  and  there,  upon  spots  thinly  covered 
with  earth,  the  husbandman  attempted  to  scatter 
the  seed.  The  White  Mountains,  which  lay  in 
the  north  of  New-Hampshire,  and  rise  to  the 
height  of  ten  thousand  feet  perp»;ndicular,  exhibi- 
ted their  bold  summits  from  this  remote  quarter : 
all  othar  parts  of  the  view  were  one  wide  ocean  of 
swelling  hills.  Rushing  down  with  many  a  bold 
leap,  streams,  receiving  numerous  accessary  brooks 
as  tliey  tumbled  between  the  stony  ravines, 
reached  the  bottoms  of  the  intervales,  and  spread, 
with  clouds  of  birds  hovering  above  them,  into 
well  stocked  fishing  ponds.  Upon  the  half 
cleared  grounds,  weather  worn  fragments  of  rock 
lay  strangely  detached,  and  from  their  tops, 
immense  pines  and  walnuts  shot  into  the  air,  whilst 
their  pliant  roots,  curling  down  the  faces  of  the 
stones,  dipped  into  the  soil,  and  at  once  supported 
the  trees  upon  their  tottering  stations,  and  afford- 
ed them  a  sufficiency  of  nourishment.  The 
smaller  fragments  were  enclosed  by  roots  like! 
network,  and  the  points  of  others  were  firmly 
grasped  in  the  trunks.  Mast  pines  are  known  t< 
grow  here,  to  the  height  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
to  two  hundred  feet^ 


th 

th 

Tl 

iio 

anc 

san 

upc 

sion 

and 

^heii 

W 

field. 

a  few 

mate, 

rays  \ 

style  ( 

iiabita 

aspect 

ever  t\ 

8ee.r,ie6 

around 

ieganc 

Uisab 


k-' 


n 


3  discussing. 

ppeareU,  by 

nor  kept  in 


d,  capital  ol 
,  was  chiefly 
lirough  the 
ojected,  and 
inly  covered 
id  to  scatter 
^hich  lay  in 

rise  to  the 
ular,  exhibi- 
ote  quarter : 
ide  ocean  of 
[xiany  a  bold 
ssary  brooks 
ny  ravines, 
and  spread, 
3  them,  into 
►n  the  half 
ents  of  rock 

their  tops, 
le  air,  whilst 
iaces  of  the 
e  supported 

and  aftbrd- 
nent.     The 

roots  likei 
were  firmly 
re  known  to 
2d  and  fifty 


"^^BSTHl^S    TOD„. 


Enfield   fsivt-  ^'^^ 

Mascomy,  a„d  consistsT/tw?  '"  "^^  ^«te 
J  V,  lages.  The  Cerm! X^^'"'"'  ^^'^"^ 
singular  sect  have  chosen  'P°''  '^Wch  this 

;»«"-  Enfield  the  enn   of    ""'  ''  '"'  ''^"^y. 
Armer.    Secluded  here  J^  T''-'  »«'g'"'ouring 
h'«  band  of  hermits,  paslT     r  "'''  "'"'"'"'kind! 
fr""«  of  ,he  earth,  gX' '  '"  ''J'' '"  ^'^•^S  the    • 
Jf-".  and  in  be:t!Z:iV''^b'^  by  the  sal  o 

">«  neatness  of  their  bJy   ^'^'^''  ^"'^  "Pon 
J^^  village  has  mor^^the     ^"^'  •'•"''  -"^osures 
"°;  °f  public  academ  e!  T'^T'"  "^  »  -olle^' 
^nd  women.    The  sT^Tt        "  '''^  "'^"-l^  of  men 
-"^  coarse  dre  s  td  C'^^""  '""''"'  -"^" 
"Ponthe/r  heads,  of  thl  n     /'*'  ""^  '>onnetI  ■ 
^^;7    The,  ar;n;tXi"'""'°"^^''»-- 
and  seem  to  take  a  pleal  .rt      V^'  ^^'y  arable 
their  works  anH  ;      '^'^^^"^^  '"  shoving  stra.,„ 

^''b  a  hurrild'''"^*'"^"'^-  ' 
f  f  •    From  the  freSg  atmrK  °"  '"^  ^^P"»ff- 
a  kwmes  had  transporld"!  ''    ''  °^^^«4 
"'ate,  where  the  autunlls-       '"'°  '  ""'^  ^l!^ 
•ars  with  unusual  warmth       ,  """'"^  '^°^''  b-s 
,f  yle  of  building,  the  vUJ     ""^  'P'""^""'"-     The 
fK'tants  them^',;^;  I'j^^;  -'d  even  the  i'! 
aspect  from  any  r  had  IT         "'^'"  ^  different 
K  man  bad^^d    h  f  rd'^'^'"-   ^O-- 
K.ed  already  to  have  1'?  w'""''  '""'•J-t^ 
Pce.^-^— st-f,-2th4 


j 


.« 


:    i 


(h 


i',r 


Hu 


1  ;'  f 


'l:' 


tt; 


24a 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


account  of  the  rugged  wearisome  road,  I  accepted 
the  friendly  ofter  of  a  person,  of  whom  I  was 
inquiring  the  distance  to  the  next  inn,  and  entered 
a  very  large  country  mansion.     Wealth  smiled 
upon    the  exterior,  and   the   apartments  as  I 
entered,  gave  tokens  of  superior  magnificence. 
The  social  group  sat  promiscuously  around  the 
blazing  fuel,  in  one  large  room,  upon  the  walls  of 
which,no  signs  of  Canadian  superstition,nor  empty 
proofs  of  British  parsimony,  appeared;  but  clocks, 
mirrors,   and   cupboards  groaning  under   their 
weight,  stood  forth  as  plain  evidences  of  exube- 
rance anil  ease.     A  long  table  occupied  the  floor, 
and,  as  if  some  lord  was  about  to  regale  his  faith- 
ful vassals  with  a  feast,  luxuries,  in  other  parts  of 
the  world  extremely  costly,  lay  piled  in  pyramids 
upon   the  crowded  dishes,  and  tanl^ards  brim- 
ming full  (not  however  with   wine)  obtained  a 
scanty  station,  between  massive  silver  tea  and 
sugar  vessels.    Yet  this  was  the  abode  of  a  plainl  dwe 
hard-working  farmer.     He  had  been  a  captain  ai  Joca 
sea,  and  with  some  of  his  maritime  gains,  had  beenl  stru( 
induced  to  come  into  this  place,  to  experiencJ  arch 
like  thouijands  around  him,  that  a  man  can  buj  abort 
choose  and  he  will  be  happy.  A  beloved  consori  the  c 
two-  worthy  sons  and  three   blooming  d«iughter J  it  wii 
were  the  joy  of  his  advanced  age.     With  a  feicount 
friends,  as  well  as  the  maids  and  hired  men,  wntbfs  f 
were  not  excluded  from  this  truly  affable,  alutfof  the 
leould  add,  this  real  republican  family  circtey^tfche  sta 
evening   rapidly   fled  in   the  most .  iBteviftiii^nted 
manner:    the  jests   went  round:  ihe  inug^  jjonjiu^ 
cider  circulated  :  and  the  rosy  apple  brighte: 


1 

I 

g 
h 

fi 

so 

cc 

thi 
jou 
ton 
ricl 


1,1  accepted 
whom  I  was 
,  ami  entered 
;alth  smiled 
tments  as  I 
lagnificence. 

around  the 
n  the  walls  of 
on, nor  empty 
i;  but  clocks, 

under   their 
;es  of  exube- 
3ied  the  floor, 
gale  his  faith- 
other  parts  of 
d  in  pyramids 
nl^ards  brim- 
e)  obtained  a 
ilver  tea  and, 
ode  of  a  plaini 
in  a  captain  a 
ains,  hadbee 
to  experienci 

man  can  buj 
jloved  conson 
ing  d«iughter( 
I.     With  a  fe 
ired  men,  w 
J  affable,  ttt 
nily  circtey 
>st .  iitteisifti| 
:  ihe  mug^ 
pie  brightei 


**E'>ESTi.,A^    TOU«. 

gentien,an  becaix^e  0X0^,7^  •^'''"'^'•'   ''^^   old 
^"^e  manual  ^'micTZ'T^^  '''''  '"'^^Pted 
2'  of  his  r.en  who t's Ta '.''"^"^  ^^-'w 
"Pon  a  wash-basin,  i„s7ead  TfT""''  ^"  ''''  ^own 
Jad  siientiy  removed!  ,''  !^\^^^'>  which  ho 
regret       _^  '^'    '  ^^^^   ^^  is  house  with 

^Salisbury  consists  of  a  n„    u 
^^^es.   buiit  chie%  of  IT""  '^  ^'""^'^^^   ' 
f^yiy  painted,    it  l^  ^^^^  ^"d  remar^.abT 
J"''. -d  presents  f  cm  ^^^^^^         the  rid.e  Tl 
f^enee.     Hence  to  CoLo!dT''"  ^'> <^^'nagnf! 
«^''  begins  toassume  a  2     ^""'"""  "^ilesfthc 
countenance.  '  "^^^'^  ^^eu  and  pJeasi„  ' 

Anxious    to    Vf^nh    D 

o;n  «te„ds  a  mile^ le^'^*'""'  '^-'^'.  This 
»ch  d,sp,«^  of  hotels  i^^t  ;,"^  f-'  'en,s  a 
d«'eJi,„g,s,  aod  above  all   fh    cf  ^**"*- '  '"Perb 

«tructed  of  white  gn,„ft/  °""^'   ""^  '>    con. 

">«  commencement  of  rh!  ^  "r'^^"*'*  ^'^'^  *o 

;' '^''h  Boston  barbou?  IT  :."''"'' '^''"'-^'^ 

"•"ntiyaretransported'to  1^''''""°"*  ''<'  "'e 
"*w  flourish;,,     .  "**'  «ea-port  thr-     l 

I         nourishing  town.     UnlnrHi   '^°"' ""rough 

^'  theear/^.,our  tixed '«.^  '^'  ""  ^<=oount 

f;;^-in„,  wbi:1':;t!:;'--.' ''topped  a 
'*n*«i  by  any  thing  I  L"!;*^  ■"«««.  ""Preee. 

^-'^  country   to;;:';,';'"l^'>^fo-m» 

^    Presented   itself  tijj 


3"! 


■l/i 


I     > 


348 


PEDESTRIAN    TOt/R. 


I :    i 


i 


li'. 


m 


i 


l>     ! 


it 


midnight.  Supper  was  three  times  spread,  for 
at  least  twenty  people ;  and  as  the  chambers 
were  not  very  numerous,  we  were  under  the 
necessity  of  agreeing  amongst  ourselves  for 
bed-fellows.  My  partner  was  a  merchant,  with 
yhose  conversation  I  had  been  pleased  during 
the  evening,  and  we  were  shown  along  the  passa- 
ges to  a  remote  room.  The  driver  roused  us  at 
four ;  the  coach  was  tightly  closed  to  exclude 
the  cold  air;  and  six  of  us,  being  shut  in  utter 
darkness,  felt  ourselves  whirling  upon  the  south- 
ern turnpike. 

Even  the  slowest  method  of  passing  over  a 
country,  is  too  fast  to  aftbrd  a  complete  know- 
ledge of  it;  much  more  so  must  be  the  rapid 
progress  of  a  stagecoach,  by  which  the  disposi- 
tion of  the  inhabitants  is  only  to  be  learned  at 
the  relays,  and  by  which,  woods,  hills  and  valleys, 
receding  like  clouds,  leave  but  a  vague  impres- 
sion of  the  beauties  and  qualities  of  the  land, 
or  the  peculiar  style  of  cultivating  it.  For  many 
miles,  we  had  not  even  this  last  consolation,  of 
peeping  through  the  curtains.  The  crimson 
dawn  of  day  at  length  appeared :  the  sun  rose  of 
uncommon  bigness,  above  the  surface  of  a  lake 
in  which  it  was  reflected  with  double  brightness : 
and  an  elderly  lady  broke  the  ice  of  conversation, 
by  remarking  that  the  pond  stretched  in  view 
was  very  beautiful.  Her  observation  was  noticed 
by  the  nods  of  two  persons  who  rode  backwards^ 
together  with  a  side  glance  from  them,  through  i 
the  window,  to  the  pond  under  consideration* 


I 

5 
i 

n 
n: 
a 

be 
Th 

S;er 
ma 
to 

The 
carc: 
fula 
^^och 
iarm 
varie 
is  alj 

Most 
l^egior 
tnarke 
'«  itse 
alluvia 


spread,  for 
e  chambers 
!  under  the 
irselves  for 
chant,  with 
ised  during 
g  the  passa- 
oused  us  at 
to  exclude 
lut  in  utter 
n  the  south- 

ssing  over  a 
)lete  know  - 
e  the  rapid 
the  disposi- 
i  learned  at 
and  valleys, 
Lgue  impres- 
of  the  land, 
t.  For  many 
isolation,  of 
he  crimson 
i  sun  rose  of 
ce  of  a  lake 
brightness : 
onversation, 
:hed  in  view 
i  was  noticed 
;  backwards^ 
2m,  through 
msideration* 


'"'  »  signal,  commencfdT  ^  "'''°  '^'""^  'hi. 

'he-r  to^n,  such  and  such   1      ^^  '"""'  ««»  <>( 
"e-^'.bourhood.and,,,,?/^"''^-^^''''-^  "t  their 
-«^'-nins  l^orse  dea    "  '  T'  ^"^^'^d  remarks 
™<"-"«ses,  and  vendin.     ,7^'"^'  P"^chasing 

metropolis.^    .  "e  lady,  a  squire  of  the 

'W  '-<!  o..osen  t  Sd^  '''  '"^^  -<^ 
^*  -'derscope  of  prospe  !  '  '''' '°'"  "'^  ^^''eo'' 
,    Approaching  neirJT.K  ■- 

I^ecame  more  ievel  fl»-       °^^'"''  "'^  countrr 

•^''-  oouid  be"dit:iri'''"'''^'"''»Sd! 

S«neral  appearance,  hu'- "°'  °"'^  '"  ** 
manners  of  its  cultiU.n  '"  ">« '"o^s  a,,J. 

^i-erexvas  that  same  ecr„nT  °^  ^"Sland. 

7^^  m  the  disposai  of  the  S  '"  ^•'•*''»^  ^'"e 
,  '^"lartof  blending  theu  ef„        ,:  """  "'""=  '««- 
;  ^ocharacteristic  of  the  oM  LT  k^  ""^  o™amenta/. 
— inff.      Although   ti'  :f '1  '"^"'-'  ol 
"aries  considerablyln  d  1      ,  ^^  °'^  "'^  State 
f  all  Primitive,  fro.n  vf ""  ^''''''  "--geoloj 
Most  of  Ne^JE^^Z       °V°  "'^  «^"  »'>of 
kion,  and  on  tha TccoJ^f  f^'  t"  ''""-'^ 
Narked   clissimilarifv  r,7    '      "'''""°"  '»  'he 

Mluvial  states  of  the  south!  ""  ^'°™  ">'^ 


;t   I 


0' 


(1 


rft-#*s- 


'fii,7i^:f'  ...f 


-m> 


I W 11 


fl 


•ZJO 


PEDESTRIAN    tOUIl* 


It . 


m 


Our  vehicle  rolled  speedily  through  Bedford, 
Nashford  and  Tungsborough,  each  a  splendid 
place  without  one  small  or  ill  looking  house  about 
it;  and  in  the  way ,  we  received  four  more  pas- 
sengers, one  of  whom  mounted  next  to  the  driver. 
Our  discourse  turned  upon  the  counterfeiting  of 
bank  notes,  and  several  interesting  accounts  of 
fraud  and  detection  were  related.  It  appears  that 
the  laws  against  counterfeiters  in  the  New -Eng- 
land states,  are  not  over  severe :  and  men  in  Can- 
ada, by  striking  oif  false  bills  as  a  trade,  whicfe 
they  sell  by  the  wholesale  for  a  moderate  profit, 
occasion  the  immense  How  of  spurious  notes, 
for  whic)>.  the  country  has  at  times  been  remark- 
able. This  counterfeiting  traffic,  which,  as  with 
honest  mercantile  business,  has  all  its  branches, 
and  descends  from  the  wholesale  to  the  retail 
venders,  and  generally  ends  in  the  hands  of  the 
poorest  and  most  simple  individuals,  is  a  kind 
of  check  upon  the  great  and  useless  increase  of 
banking  companies.  Almost  every  little  town 
boasts,  next  to  its  church  or  court-house,  of  its 
bank.  It  is  much  to  be  wished  that  the  various 
currencies*  and  numerous  small  banks,  could 
g  ve  place  to  one  currency,  and  one  great  na- 
tional bank  uuough  the  whole  United  States. 

MASSACHUSETTS. 

Casting  a  perspective  glance  over  America, 
the  figures  of  three  or  four  communities  appear] 

H^         *  Currency  of  New-England  Ji?  6s.  Qd.  to  a  dollar. 


u 

to 

up 
Ti 
(ho 
tby 
hur 
whi 
coos 
they 
bJacJ 
times 
their 
Teat 
gittU 
ther 


ough  Bedford, 
ach  a  splendid 
ing house  about 

four  more  pas- 
:xt  to  the  driver, 
junterfeiting  of 
ng  accounts  of 
It  appears  that 

the  New-Eng- 
lid  men  in  Can- 

a  trade,  whicfe 
1  ode  rate  profit, 
jpurious  notes, 
58  been  remark- 
which,  as  with 
U  its  branches, 
e  to  the  retail 
e  hands  of  the 
uals,  is  a  kind 
ess  increase  of 


wciore  our   imo  •      .  -Qi 

Others      ^ru  "  ^'^^'r  asoecf   ^k  ^^^^ 

^.'"g"lar  history    if  ""^--^'i-e  and  extre  J  , 
^eiebrity.     An  ..        ''^^ngtb,  have  ffivpn  if 

(-onsidering  at  the,  "*«"«.  "'^  cannot  avoi.l 

f  basing  trait,  the  vet  Z"',  "  f  ^-P'«ou  a„U 

'«   aborigines  fro„ri  "'''''"  -^'^Wearance  j 

^';ange  doctrines  of  rl     ''""°"'^''    and  thos/ 
winch  were  -.r-r.^         '^'igion  and  of  „;.  ,.       ^ 

P-ecutiolr""'''"-''  ''"■^  "-  -Tt'wS 

"f»»  'heir  bodio,,;;™' 7'""°"».  »"<i  a  ,.,1'^J'"''  7«  »-«J 


')! 


jry    little    town  I  via,  0*^  „„","; J"""'  """^  «ome  sco-ZT'''"'  "''   ""»  ''San 

rt-l.ouse.  of  its     "-«"  ".-^VCt™::'?""""  -"»>  h IT"  '^  '"^^ 
hat  the  various    I^lr""  •*«  «  M  t"/  '""■•■^'  --«  «:  J™!'  """"»»'» 

1  hanks,  could ^-rr::s.£i:t--;.;^^^^ 

one  great  -   :r4Xe™..^-"S-.r:tr^^^^^^^^^ 
iited  states.       i  ,<„,^„j         w  ''«»  >o  ,/g„  „,  ,„,,"'""■'"'  (woii/s  a  boot 

'"«"  "and,  .V.  ;  i:,"^,^;"'  """"ho  b&  j;^::,.  °*«.-and«„,. 


i 


over  America, 
1  unities  appeal 


in 

( 

ji.  :;;■ 

1 

#) 

il* 

i 

! 


i   ii 


I  • 


3^2 


P£»£STRIAN'  TOUK. 


'  i. 


IT 


i-^^ 


We  passed  through  Dunstahle,  Chelmsfora, 
Biilerica,  Burlington  and  Woburn,  without  stop- 
ping more  than  ten  minutes  at  either  place. 
Burlington  has  becam/e  famous  for  its  extensivQ 
theological  institutions,  which  are  brick  build- 
ings of  extraordinary  elegance  as  well  as  simpli- 
city. Not  wishing  upon  any  account  to  loose 
thefirst  sight  of  a  great  commercial  town,  I  agreed 
with  the  gentleman,  next  the  driver,  for  an  ex- 
change of  places,  and  accordingly  took  the  elevated 
station  which  he  willingly  left.  The  weather 
was  clear  and  warm.  Leaving  the  level  country, 
we  began  to  glide  with  undulatory  speed  through 
the  picturesque  wilds  about  the  environs  of  Bos- 
ton, where  nature,  bold,  rocky,  hideous,  with  here 
and  there  a  merchant*s  seat  perched  upon  the 
heights,  envelopes  the  dusty  vehicle,  and  pre- 
pares the  beholder  for  a  change  of  scenery,  dou- 
bly striking  from  the  contrast. 

At  length  cloudy  domes  and  spires,  rear  their 
peaks  above  the  hills.  The  toll  of  some  bell 
dies  in  the  distance.    Increased  life  and  popu- 


11: 


though  carefully  locked  up,  it  was  com'eyetl  away  by  the  demons  to  del 
further  mischief.     Another  vroman  was  teased  by  a  spectre  m  a  white  [ 
sheet,  which  no  body  saw  but  herself,  till  she  tore  off  a  corner  of  it,  and] 
then  it  became  visible  A:c.  &c."     Mather's  Magnolia.    In  book  VlJ 
Chapter  Vll.  {Thaumatographia  Pneumatica)  of  this  curious  worM  hoflQ 
is  related  a  long  list  of  preternatural  occurrences  of  a  different  spe-l 
cies ;  and  the  learned  author  says,  in  preface  to  the  account  of  a  watl    r 'I'M 
with  Sagamore  Philip,  '*  that  the  people  were  alarmed  with  prodigtcJ  %hich 
denoting  their  approaching  troubles,    i'he  report  of  great  and  mftll    ^   f^ 
g^ns,  and  the  sound  of  drums  and  troops  of  horses  riding  to  and  frl  ^^ 
were  heard  in  the  air  by  a  number  of  incontestible  witnesses."     Bool  ^'OStor 
VII.  Chapter.  Vf.    CArma  virosque  Canc.J  ^  P^hich 


i.-. 


Chelmsfora, 
rithout  stop- 
ither  place. 
its  extensIvQ 
brick  build- 
11  as  simpli- 
int  to  loose 
wn,  I  agreed 
,  for  an  ex- 
:  the  elevated 
rhe  weather 
ivel  country, 
eed  through 
rons  of  Bos- 
18,  with  here 
ed  upon  the 
le,  and  pre- 
;enery,  dou- 

is,  rear  their 
f  some  bell 
}  and  popu- 

)r  the  demons  to  del 

inorire  in  a  while  I 


jauGu    begins    to    .»;. 

grounds.   ^=r.   "^    ''''    ^^O""^*    the    adjacent 
^^ow  openinjr  beVnmi  n 

""'••    Farther  off.  spr  'L    ufT  °"'  "^  ">«  "a- 
^-•>rce.^diseing„i,,Pbr  .  r'''"''  "'ores. 

%.  and   between  t^o  Vo      I    "  ''•■"•='■'  «'"  "'« 
ffa'lant  ships   are  .-..^r  "*  P°""s  of  Jn„d 

To  the  person  wh. .    ^"""''c  ocean. 

'■';-ea-pVa:th-ra"'"'"'°'''''-^^«- 
0/  those  majestic  and   ef ''"'""  ''  ''^P"ved 

"■-^^a  coast  a,vva,sl]r";"-  ^'^"^'  ^''Wd, 
''fP'hs  of  forests  and  S      '  '"'=""•"  ^'°'"  tho 
P'^ce  that  bears  even  a  ^1      ""'"'"''  ">  ^°'«e 
°"e  which  he  has  left  'f'  ^^'^""Wance  to  the 

''gl'tful  rambles  which  S"  ""'"'"•  ^he  de- 
!''-''«='  of  beloved  Sn'sr  T  °"^''  -Jo,ed. 
''»de adieu,  (he conscious^  m  ^'"  ■"« ''^^  'ono. 
^en  of  a  to,v„  St  W  ^'''''^of  his  bei„. „ ci  " 

:-^^efore  h/nl'  Z  S::". "'"^  -^"'S " 
of  ;ts  strength,  its  policy  if7'"S  ^*"^o"ections 
«,"eut  ruiers-all  croT;]  '  r'°'?^'"="^'  ''^  <>- 


m 


•acornerofit,an<J    ^^llent   rulers-^all  crou^ I  ^''''''^^'^'"^S'  '>s  cx- 
aa.  In  book  VI   .pire  to  involve  him T     "f''"  '''^^'  ^»d  con 
i».8cur.ou8wori^l  hails  the  S3I^  ^  ^  P^easino-revpr-      , 

fa  different  spe- 1        .         "'^    Salt    Waves  wifh  «\l       .^^^^^^^C;    ^q 

accountofawaJ«P'r«ntheodourof«,i.,.      .  ^'^^"^'^S'^,   and  ...' 


.iscnou.  word  hails  the  "sjir" ''""  *" "  p'eas.n::;;;:';"  "t 

fa  different  spe- 1        .         "'^    Salt    Waves  wifh  «\l       .^^^^^^^C;    ije 

account  of  a  waJ  «P'r«nthe  odour  of  sal^  J     ,^"^^"sjasm,   and  vp  ' 

ledwithprodigieKhichthevn^  '"^'^'^^S,  with  a  snhor  " 

great  aid  «»«il     ^^^^  "ever  could  fornier  v  hn  '^^'''" 

'  52      "'^'Se  vessels,  and 


J     '! 


!:?*      ^ 


[^      U 


It;,.. 


.,' 


H-' 


'm 


254 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


has  many  of  them  built  upon  its  banks.  The  ca- 
nal from  the  Merimack,  continues  parallel  to  the 
west  side  of  the  Mystic,  an(i^  ^hat  forms  an  un- 
exampled concurrence,  the  narrow  space  between 
them,  like  an  intermediate  step,  is  filled  up  by 
the  great  turnpike :  so  that  vessels  are  sailing  in 
the  river,  or  dipping  the  ends  of  syphons  into 
the  canal,  and  receiving,  for  their  outward  voya- 
ges, their  supply  of  water,  originally  from  the 
Merimack :  heavy  laden  canal  boats  are  slowly 
moving  above  them  :  whilst  carriages  of  all  kinds 
are  rattling  upon  the  intervening  road. 

Passing  through  Charleston,  which  may  be 
considered  as  a  detached  portion  of  Boston,  we 
crossed  one  of  those  numerous  and  very  long 
bridge's,  that  connect  the  peninsula  occupied  en- 
tirely by  the  town,  with  the  nearest  points  of  land ; 
and  proceeding  through  narrow  streets,  reached 
the  sign  of  the  Rising-sun. 


I ;  i . 


li-'! 


,  The  ca- 
illel  to  the 
ms  an  un- 
e  between 
led  up  by 

sailing  in 
)hons  into 
ard  voya- 

from  the 
re  slowly 
fall  kinds 

i-  ■  t\  ' 

I  may  be 
Joston,  we 
very  long 
:upied  en- 
itsofland; 
s,  reached 


i'EDESTRIAN  TOUR. 


25A 


CHAPTER  X. 

>I^OM  BOSTON,  THROUGH  THE  ST.. 

"THE  STATE  OP  nHODE-rsf  A  vn 

TONEW-YonK. 


Monday,  Oct 


-'J(h  1)121. 


<=«»  listen  to  daV  ec  tl  !«"'"'°"'    »"'  "ho 
»"d  prosperity  of  anTc  t '  „  ?r'"''"«'  '^^  '^0'«' 
^"her  from  occas'ona  IT  t°"'  '"''^''vouring. 
journals,  or  fromTe  1  ^^f "«  '"  ,""«  P-..ed 
,<='"=en8.  to  form  some  ,11    ;°'  ''^  '"'^■" 

»"!  perused  in  hisloryTbr^T°^'^'^'^'°''''^ns 
P°"««  o„t  immediat^,,tl       """''• '=""°«''y 
obtaining    particular   itX"'"'"""^  ""^^  of 
potential  town.  J,  ''   «»'trerning  their 

"The  appearance  of  Bo<itr,n 
^«^«mely    irregular      i°",'f  "''"^"""e:  its  site, 

•J'yersi/ied  ..and  its  buildL  '"''''  ""'^^^  -"d 
«ot  wanting  i„  exter  o/^r^"''' '°'"'^' ""d 
'^-etropolis  of  .e::^--    J-o. 


■«*»'--,pe«e<„oo„,o.e„ad...i^. 


(        i| 


<^, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


■u  Ui2   12.2 

J!?  B4   ■— » 


Hiotographic 

Sdences 
Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WIBSTER.N.Y.  MSM 

(716)  •72-4503 


4^ 


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5(j 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUH. 


general  arrangement,  and  from  the  names  giv^n 
to  places  and  institutions,  bears  no  small  likeness 
to  the  metropolis  of  old  England:  and  many 
parts,  especially  tlie  long  ranges  of 'ware-houses, 
oven  rival  London  in  beauty  and  magnificence. 

At  the  inn  where  I  remained  a  day  or  two  in 
this  town,  I  found  a  personage  of  a  reserved  yet 
respectable  demeanor,  who  proved  himself,  from 
a  few  expressions,  to  be  one  of  those  travellers 
who  move  from  place  to  place,  upon  the  express 
business  of  killing  time.  Like  most  persons  who 
have  little  else  to  concern  them,  he  was  a  warm 
admirer  of  the  works  of  nature :  and  according  to 
my  proposition,  we  proceeded  on  tl  walk  to  the 
Common,  which  is  a  most  delightful  green,  and 
occupies  an  open  declivity  on  Beacon  Hill. 
Upon  one  side  is  a  close  colonade  of  trees,  de- 
nominated  the  mall,  and,  as  with  the  mall  of  S*« 
James's,  stately  dwellings  of  the  wealthy  are  half 
seen  above  its  heavy  foliage.  A  row  of  princely 
edifices  bounds  the  upperside,  and  the  State-house 
with  its  lofty  dome,  crowns  the  very  summit  of  the 
liill.  Adjacent  is  an  ancient  structure,  which, 
though  it  might  seem  the  meanest,  is,  above  all 
the  others,  the  most  illustrious;  for  it  was  the 
residence  of  John  Hancock.  The  lower  side  of 
the  green  is  open  to  the  water,  over  which  is  seen 
the  great  dam,  running  over  to  the  village  of 
Brooklyn,  and  a  bridge  that  leads  to  part  o^ 
Cambridge. 

Children  were  frolicing  in  different  parts  of  the 
Common.   Grave  looking  personages  were  pacing 


m^ 


imcs  giv^n 
all  likeness 
and  many 
are-houses, 
ificence. 
y  or  two  in 
served  yet 
iself,  from 

travellers 
;he  express 
ersons  who 
as  a  warm 
cording  to 
valk  to  the 
»reen,  and 
icon  Hill. 
;  trees,  de- 
nail  of  St- 
ly  are  half 
if  princely 
State-house 
nmit  of  the 
J  re,  which, 

above  all 
it  was  the 
'^er  side  of 
tich  is  seen 
village  of 
to  part  of 

parts  of  the 
ere  pacing 


"P and do«r„ them,/!    r 

crossing  instead  of »«  i.  ^"""P^n-es  of  sailors  were 

appeared  upo„?;rrt^,„»;T;'''- But  „^ 

*^<^"'red  to  me.  1  cllllT"'^-  Something 
Jfwon.  about  the  «rIL  "  "'^  '»«''  much 
f  "g/and.  whilst  mr:^7„;«8^'""ioos  of  W 

i^t  from  PhiladelSa  7^'"'""''  "''«'  ^ad  come 
[-triction.    ButtvX'idTf '"^  '"'°"^  ""* 
'"frequent  public  gj„~  ''"^•«»  be  expected 
'««  Battery  i„  WYoI   ,    ?'"  ""'  '^^'^'-m- 
't;'^'''«''-»«n'yonpti''''^;  iU  flowing 
Ha^'ng  passed  overthe  ml    "''''>' ^'^^nings? 
"P;n    a  bridge.  ^t^Tl^T'^f'"''''^' ^''-^ 
^•'"e  been  a  mile  and  a  ZT,     ,    '''""*'^''^  ""av 
°"r  rambles  to  the  oldtnT    ''^' '"' ^'"^'^^^ 
^"Y   and  to  the  well  k'r  """  "^^  Cam- 
Charleston.     Here  m.J""'"'   P«nin««la  of 
."•«  "Park  of  independenciV^^  ""'  '^  ^Wch 
''resistable  flame    ^"^.1'"'  ''■""^^  '»*«  an 
*at  the  arms  of  AmpH        *"  P^n'nsuia  it  was 

Bunker's  hill.  fe„  mode"„  e„I  ?  *"  "««"«  of 

^l^thy  of  being  celeb«S!2^f  .'"^"'"  ^"^  mo« 

Throughout  the  most  r^J^ "' " '"  "'''''^^■ 

mentioned  by  the  peoDU    !/ r*'  ''^t'^rit 

acquainted    with    £  nt  •     ,'"'°'»'  ««»»«  «« 

"'•^'r  know,  that  in^P^"'^"'*''.   "nd  other^ 

-^-eneounterhapAnTa^l^-jr- 

8j  ,    '^"^''e  «  mewcw^ 


I 


Ill 


oj; 


'i68 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


had  already  sent  ten  thousand  troops  to  Boston, 
over  whom  general  Gage,  the  governor  of  Massa- 
chusetts, was  commander-in-chief.  The  Ameri- 
cans as  quickly  collected  in  great  numbers  about 
Cambridge,  two  or  three  miles  from  the  town, 
under  their  commander-in-chief,  general  Ward. 
Entrenchments  were  ordered  to  be  thrown  up  at 
Cambridge,  and  the  hardy  provincials  became 
eager  for  the  combat.       < ,  .     -  ; « 

Charleston  peninsula  presents  a  very  hilly  sur- 
face of  ground.  The  village  stood  upon  the 
point  nearest  the  town  :  not  far  behind  was  the 
principal  eminence  ;  and  other  eminences  stood 
farther  from  the  point,  among  which  was  Bunker's 
hill,  from  which  the  battle  receives  its  appella- 
tion. 

In  a  council  of  war,  the  Americans  resolved 
upon  entering  Charleston  and  fortifying  the 
heights.  Prescot,  an  aged  officer,  was  dispatched 
in  the  night,  and  with  great  exertions  and  secrecy, 
he  cast  up  a  redoubt  upon  the  principal  emi- 
jience,  and  a  breastwork  down  to  Mystic  river. 
Daylight  opened  (June  17th  1775)  and  exposed 
to  the  astonished  Englishmen,  those  bulwarks, 
which  the  power  of  enchantment  alone  seemed 
able  to  have  raised,  so  near  their  own  ships  andl  the 
floating  batteries.  Their  vessels  commenced!  bJa 
firing,  and  the  town  was  soon  thrown  into  the!  bos 
greatest  tumult.  Three  thousand  troops  weri 
sent  over  under  general  Howe,  to  displace  thi 
jbold  intruders ;  and  part  of  them  having  landed 
were  so  secure  of  conquest,  that  they  ukifoldec 


Fin 
ofh 
inst 
Jiebc 


[)s  to  Boston, 
nor  of  Massa- 
The  Ameri- 
umbers  about 
om  the  town, 
eneral  Ward, 
thrown  up  at 
iciais  became 

irery  hilly  sur- 
od  upon  the 
ehind  was  the 
linences  stood 
I  wasBunker*s 
es  its  appella- 

icans  resolved 
fortifying  the 
/as  dispatched 
IS  and  secrecy, 
>rincipal  emi- 
Mystic  river. 
)  and  exposed  I 
lose  bulwarks, 
alone  seemed 
own  ships  and 
commenced 


«heii-  knapsacks,  and   as  .l,»  '"'' 

Of  |"e  deta.ch«'e„,  t  /etlrvT  '"  '"^  '*'' 

C-eneral  Warren  and  pT  ^  ^'""'^"'• 
reinforcements  to  the  hill  Jh?  '"'''^'"^  '^''h 
breastwork  of  rails  and  W*;""  """'her  slight 

Jom  the  redoubt  towards  ^ar'  '""""^  ''^'^'''^ 
the  surrounding  hills  of/J.  "'"•     ^^Pon 

tants.  interested  on  eil      T'^''^'  "'^  '"''abi- 
ho'd  the  spectacle  a!  a  r  T^^' '"  "°^'^^'i  to  he- 

««t  important  stuSre^'S'tr"  ^""''^  '"'« 

pies  of  Boston  were  no,;  fiila     •  T*"'  "»♦'  ''<^^- 

=«ns.  or  devoted  wivesoTn    '1  '"f.  ''"^''"«'  ^'ti- 

p-i"g  upon  the  11°  „r""*"^"'''««»-"ely 

Jike  numerous  spectators     "T"^"'"^  *«"or! 

-;«  "rilliant  toElmem      ""^  '^^  "-'  ^^ 

"Ke  the  interrupted  opal.  „<•  i  "*'  "itervals, 

"•odiDg  a  storm  the  artin         *"""  thunder  fore- 

-«d.  tl>e  pol,shed  arX  fefl   ?';' ''"^ '•''^«"- 
7«  of  a  scorching  sur  fiTn"^  '"^  ^^rtical 

ed,  and  waved  exultinl;      .""^""^^re  display. 

royal  battalions     S^ilf"'"'  "'^''^'>'"'  of  tYe 

-f  «hot  flew  from  the  ei^, ''''"''^''-    ^<'' 

thousand  five  hundred  Z     "    "'^"^ '  but  one 

black  -iphurousm    :t'",^2.t  r'"'''  ">-' 

ho^om  of  a  Briton.    1   few    °  ,     '""P''»"»^ 

Fire    cri»^.k .       '^^    rods  intei-„»__  f 


.     ™    :''"'P"'""ou«  muzzles  earh/«.r™   "'e'r 

irown  mtothf    bosom  of  a  Briton      ?  r""^  P^'Pitatin^ 

1  troops  we«    Fire!  cried  the  venen.blt  i^."?''^  '"'^-ned!' 


1  troops  wen  i'lre!  cried  the  venerable  p  ''°'"  '"tervened 
to  displace  4,  •fbis  voice  was  tie  al„;:r''«nd  the  echo 
having  lamled  instruments  of  death  fh^^  '°'"'  "^  helcbinc 
tl.ey  unfold^a  abounding  voice t'heavlf'"^;;  °^  -'th :  Z 

«aveii.    Dowji  reeled  the 


I 


1:1 


I.      i| 


;l 


ill< 


'■{ 


'     -i 


I: 


^■-'1 


m' 


i\ 


!', 


V 


k 

soo 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUB. 


dismayed  soldiers:  backwards  the  broken  lines 
fled  precipitately.  The  waving  banners  now 
shook  tremulously,  whilst  many  a  gushing  wound, 
dyed  the  parched  slope  of  the  contested  emi- 
nence. ,       ,. 

But  Englishmen  are  soldiers  of  honour :  they 
are  cool,  resolute,  courageous ;  are  every  thing, 
but  Americans.  An  unexpected  shock  will  dis- 
may the  bravest.  The  shame  of  being  repulsed 
so  quickly,  and  the  expostulations  of  their  officers, 
induced  them  to  return  again  to  the  charge  and 
renew  the  fiery  contest. 

From  the  village  of  Charleston,  which  was  even 
at  that  time  large  and  populous,  a  thick  column 
of  smoke  was  observed,  gradually  rising  like  a 
triumphal  arch  towards  the  Americans,  and  melt- 
ing above  their  heads.  The  flames  then  burst 
forth,  and  every  house  of  the  town  disappeared 
in  a  red  envelope  of  fire.  What  a  sight  to  the 
distant  spectators !  Now,  the  British  troops, 
by  whom  the  village  was  fired,  had  reached 
nearer  to  the  entrenchments  than  before,  without 
having  a  shot  directed  towards  them.  Again  the 
dreadful  voices  of  Putnam,  Warren,  Pomeroy, 
Stark  and  Prescot,  resounded  at  once  with  the 
fatal  word-^Fire!— and  horrible  tumult  winged 
its  malignant  course  throughout  the  amazed 
ranks:  they  recoiled  and  fled — They  fled  from 
shouts  of  Victory,  victory,  this  day  is  our^ 

Rage  took  possession  of  the  British  comtnanders* 
iCUntoD  sprang  intda  boat,  and  appeared  atndngst 


•roken  lines 
anners  now 
ling  wound, 
I  tested  emi- 

•nour:  they 
jvery  thing, 
>ck  will  dis- 
ng  repulsed 
leir  officers, 
charge  and 

ch  was  even 
lick  column 
sing  like  a 
s,  and  melt- 
then  burst 
lisappeared 
sight  to  the 
ish  troops^ 
id  reached 
►re,  without 

Again  the 
,  Pomeroy, 
e  with  the 
ult  winged 
he  amazed 
y  fled  from 

our^ 
tmtnandeii^ 


"'e  defeated  soldiVr,      ■ 

^-m  hfs  present  *;"n;;''°.r'"'^"^'^  --g^ 
'^as  formed.  '    "** "  '''"'^'•en'  Plan  of  attack 

The  Americans  had  Pvn^.,  1  J 
""""unitiou;  their n.usketr^.'"*''''^''"  ">eir 
»"«^  and  reinforcement  J      '"'"""'« "'■bay- 
reaching  them,  by  thel"!':^  '"•"■^"tecl  from 
"'f  batteries  across  the  ^^1!,!' "=  ^""^  ""e  float- 
■*"'«.    As  the  rova  art  ,J      '^"""°^"'epe„i„. 

P°f  ■■"•on  for  rakin Jthe  ea  h2;  f "''  '  '^''"'-"b'' 
7''ants,  desperat:  at  beS    '"■T'"'°*' "'e  as- 
^'o"'"  their  cumbrous  k2  7'  ''"■'="^'''  "■«- 
coats,  and  furiously  dashTi/      '  ""•^^"'"e  'heir 
opposition.    TheyCped  „  ""'7'' ''«'""''  ^'ver/ 
"«n  todies  made  by  tSfr"" "" '"°"'"'  of  hu^ 
he.  current  of  whilt  LTfcr"''"^'' '"^^^ 
^»h'cb  poured  against  them  If^   '^  '•""'-g  atones 
counter  with  thedestructl^'h  "''  T  '"  "'°»«  ^n- 
fet«-  The  fire  from  1^21^^'''"^ '"''^ 
'oose  ramparts,  and  re'  LTl'^'V'"""'' °Pc"  'he 

Americans  became  absouTel!!  "'' P"'  "'^  'he 
en,an,ed,  dealing  dearw^, "'''"■>' •^''"'hey 
Wo^r.  til,  the  ditch  ZmZ       T"^  descending 
«'  length  retired  fZ     .     "''"'"'««'«'•».  They 
Kk.  in  good  order  Id  St'''"*""  """^  •'^«-'- 
^hose  who  defended  Z  mifl"!""  ''^^  ^^'^^''cd. 
N"  wing  retreating,  at  the  2*'  '''''''^'"S  the 
hpectation  of  overcomi  .t  .r  """"'^^  "^cre  i„ 
hder  the  necesshy  7f  .^t   '  "'''"^'  '^^'"c  also 
';'«*.  broken,  and   xbaLtedb:^  """^  ^^''^b! 
toy.  stopped    upon    be  wn^^  ""^  ''*"  of  the 

•"quishedthanLco    uer   s  '  7"  '"^  '^ 
I  ^  ^^^^'  ^^^  were  unwil. 


If  ' 


n',^ 


262 


PEDESTRIAN   TOVI. 


iS" 


ling  to  advance  any  farther.  The  retiring  army, 
through  the  persuasions  of  Putnam,  were  about  to 
return  to  the  charge,  when  a  vciley  was  poured 
down  upon  them,  which  occasioned  greater  loss 
than  they  had  before  suffered.  Superiority  of  num- 
bers, a  better  supply  of  arms,  and  well  directed 
artillery,  forbade  them  any  hopes  of  a  rally  :  and 
they  marched  through  a  thick  raking  tire  over  the 
isthmus,  to  the  fortifications  at  Cambridge  and 
upon  the  neighbouring  hills. 

Many  brave  men  fell  on  this  memorable  day^ 
The  loss  of  the  Americans  was  not  half  that  of  the 
English :  but  the  fonner  have  ever  to  deplore  the 
death  of  Warren,  the  illustrious  President  of  the 
Congress. 

The  hills  of  the  peninsula  of  Charleston,  are  at 
present  considerably  displaced  by  commercial 
houses.  Part  of  the  celebrated  eminence  remains, 
overtopped  by  church  steeples  and  edifices;  and 
on  the  summit,  is  a  level  green  containing  a 
monument  to  Warren. 

We  continued  our  rambles  around  the  spot, 
where  American  freedom  recieved  its  birth.  Half 
levelled  by  the  hand  of  time,  some  remaining 
fortifications  stand  on  a  hill,  as  evidences  of  former 
deeds  of  patriotism.  I  mounted  the  highest 
parapet :  my  companion  took  a  volume  from  his 
pocket,  and  sat  upon  the  counterscarp  of  a  grassy 
moat  Like  the  actor  who  personates  a  king  on 
his  throne,  I  could  almost  believe  myself  esmltecl 
in  reality  above  the  people  that  were  trudgiiigl 
alon^  the  road  below  me^  and,  as  I^thought  of  th^ 


tiring  army, 
fere  about  to 
^as  poured 
greater  loss 
>rityofnum- 
rell  directed 
a  rally:  and 
fire  over  the 
nbridge  and 

;    '.I 

norable  day^ 
df  that  of  the 
>  deplore  the 
sident  of  the 

eston,  are  at 
commercial 
nee  remains, 
difices;  and 
containing  a 

id  the  spot, 
i  birth.  Half 
3  remaining 
?es  of  former 
the  highest 
me  from  his 
)  of  a  grassy 
es  a  king  on 
self  exalte4 
ire  trudgiii^l 
jughtofthfc 


'BDESliiiAN    TOUR 

fad  the  good  forC  ;    Je  XlZ  '."  ^'"^^  ' 
'««  not  sat  around  the  arm!d    T      ^'"''"^'^n 
relative,  and  listened    Ji?h      I'u"-  "^  ""  "Sed 
«lowi.«  descriptionr  of         ?""'«''«'">  to  his 

h's  tales  of  p^t  eveWs  ,L    ?V   ''^'^  °»er 
I'J'ere  is  a  fecliL  ^  "'^  '^™er  virtue. 

-pecti„gVrda:f„~.'^,  '^'"'  "»«  -itafs 

casts    over   thp    i^  "^  ^"^^   remembered 

P'easingt^in  fdrS'^tr™''"'   ^ 
'h«t  we  may  pace  the  "1    7'*''°'^"'''«»'>''"<les. 

bmatbed  their  1^3?^::'?^"  "'"'''  '"^^ 
our  to,rns.  some  venerabl.l  ^  '?  '"*  ■»«*'  '» 
period  survived  i^Z'^-ZlCi''  ""^  '"^  '^'•'' 

h-m.  m  the  indifferent  „annLr' Jed'        ^""^  ^^ 
other  men  ?  Kp-        ""^"er  we  do  m  passing 


river,  were  floatog  sfvliS'  """"J'  °'  *^y«*<= 

•hips  of  the  line.  whLeZilTT  '^^''^**''  "»'' 
of  the  future  prowess  ofT"   ?^  ^^^^^^^ons 
OnTuesday  aftrh!„    **  ^""^'^  Sites'  navr. 
,  of  Public1.5:u^:f'37'^''»-"ghthero„„^d 

/  "se  ride  had  so  iH  accorded  with 


>' 


4 


?  ' 


'iO'i 


PEDESTRIAN    TOLK* 


t 


•   J 
I 


•r 


ii 


my  former  method  of  travelling,  that  I  lIiosc  oiki 
more  the  peripatetic  style.  Harvard  University, 
it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  mention,  stands  first  in 
reputation  on  the  American  continent.  The 
college  buildings  are  numerous,  are  of  brick,  and 
stand  upon  a  lawn  handsomely  enclosed.  Besides 
the  lectures  which  are  here  delivered  to  a  great 
concourse  of  students  from  every  quarter,  there 
arc  other  distinct  courses,  delivered  by  physicians 
in  the  town.  Many  elegant  seats  are  situated  in 
the  vicinity  of  this  place.  At  Dedham,  which  is 
a  large  village,  I  found  the  hotel  occupied  by  a 
convivial,  party  of  country  lads,  who,  with  musical 
instruments,  displayed  their  several  talents  and 
kept  the  whole  house  in  a  tumult.  Leaving  them, 
I  went  on  three  or  four  miles  towards  the  next 
inn;  but  missing  the  way  in  the  dark,  advanced 
a  considerable  distance  upon  a  wrong  road,  until 
I  met  a  suspicious  looking  fellow  in  the  woods, 
who  wished  me  a  good  evening.  IIo  had  a  stout 
cudgel  in  his  hand,  and  appeared  to  manouvre  a 
little.  When  I  set  out  on  my  tour,  a  friend  had 
given  me  a  walking  stick,  which  proved  to  be 
hollow;  and  knowing  the  emergencies  which 
wandering  strangers  sometimes  encounter,  I  had 
still  retained  it.  At  this  moment,  the  end  b}' 
mere  chance,  fastening  in  the  clayey  soil,  the 
handle  separated  and  exposed  to  the  eyes  of  the 
vagrant,  the  glittering  appearance  of  steel.  He 
moved  to  the  side  of  the  road,  said  he  lived  across 
the  lots,  thpt  I  must  turn  back  (o  recover  my  way, 


1 1  those  OIK  I 
d  University, 
stands  iirBt  in 
itincnt.  The 
of  brick,  and 
ised.  Besides 
ed  to  a  great 
uarter,  there 
!))'  physicians 
re  situated  in 
am,  which  is 
:cupied  by  a 
with  musical 
talents  and 
caving  them, 
irds  the  next 
rk,  advanced 
g  road,  until 

1  the  woods, 

2  had  a  stout 
>  manouvre  a 
a  friend  had 
roved  to  be 
ncies  which 
unter,  I  had 
,  the  end  b}* 
ey  soil,  the 

eyes  of  the 

steel.    He 

lived  across 

ver  my  way, 


'■""'"'AH   ,o„.       .  _ 

I      '•'"•get  through  whiT*^'"*  "«  the  odIv 

^^-Ifl.  the  dm.  Jo7,^ ''r*''*  «ft^  feet 
^f  »»  a  circumstance  «Ti.       *^"°*'«»W'niitr 
'» the  midtt  of  dweK,  •  *'"''*' ''«  '""'wn^ 
nver  supplier  "'^''e'  »urface  of  the 

"»»  preparing  to  aet  «  f ;   ^  ""^  Jfe^-Yorir 

'"«»"•.    The  inte^T  o^  *'  '^'^  "f  X' 

«o«  Aowy  edificeT.IdT''*^ '■" '"'«''/ttI 
top  of  the  hilj.  „p^'  ^'"''jr^i'V  fiom  fte 

"^'■'iM  »Iei»  of  N^^  eJT"' towo.  « 

^•ri*^  peninsula,  "anffi^?*  "*'»* 
•"  »««  as  alluvia-is*'*'  '^f^ 
23      ''P°"**' and  a««r 


11 


I 


'I  " 


,> 


•'••i 


r  i\' 


ih 


u'^ 


W 


■; 


I  » 


\n  : 


if 


f  ,' 


360 


PeD£STRIAN   TOCB. 


disposed  as  to  form  what  might  truly  be  called, 
fantastic  harbours :  such  is  Penobscot  bay ;  such 
is  Boston-harbour;  and  such  in  a  peculiar  man- 
ner is  Narraganset  bay  of  Rhode-Island.  It  is  a 
quadrangular  inlet  of  the  sea,  nearly  filled  with 
the  most  fertile  islands,  and  branching  off  like 
horns  at  the  two  corners,  into  Taunton  river,  and 
into  the  confluent  Patuxet,  (not  the  Patucket) 
Wanasquatucket,  and  Seakonk  river.  Provi- 
dence lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Wanasquatucket, 
near  its  junction  with  the  Seakonk.  A  lofty 
hill  rises  on  the  east  side,  at  the  foot  of  which, 
where  space  enough  for  two  parallel  streets  a 
mile  and  a  half  in  length  was  allowed,  the  chief 
commercial  part  of  the  town  is  closely  crowded. 
But  it  looks  as  if  the  head  of  the  northwest  arm 
or  horn  of  the  bay,  had  once  reached  a  mile  or 
two  past  the  town,  and  a  level  piece  of  land 
projecting  abruptly  from  the  opposite  side,  had 
created  a  wide  cove,  that  now  lays  detached  from 
the  inlet,  in  a  most  singular  manner.  Across  the. 
part  thus  constricted  like  the  neck  in  the  middle 
of  an  hour-glass,  is  thrown  the  Central  bridge, 
and  the  finest  buildings  are  spread  a  mile  west- 
ward upon  the  level  promonto*^.  Vessels  of 
every  description  come  quite  up  to  the  bridge, 
and  are  consequently  encompassed  by  the  ware- 
houses which  they  furnish  with  goods,  and  from 
whichithey  are  loaded:  masts  with  their  yajt4$Mrinia, 
and  jacks,  vie  with  church-steeples  aikl  ||j||^ 
wtatbercocks^  v^^sifa 


'rF  f  < 


1f*|j 


ly  be  calleil, 
[>t  bay;  such 
^culiar  man- 
and.  It  is  a 
Y  filled  with 
iiing  off  like 
Dn  river,  and 
le  Patucket) 
rer.  Provi- 
isquatucket, 
k.  A  lofty 
»t  of  which, 
llel  streets  a 
d,  the  chief 
jly  crowded, 
rthwest  arm 
id  a  mile  or 
ece  of  land 
te  side,  had 
tached  from 
Across  the. 
\  the  middle 
itral  bridge, 
I  mile  west- 
Vessels  of 
the  bridge^ 
ly  the  ware- 
s,  and  from 
iiryajr4|Mri^l^ 


*r 


•^"""•ches  (and  there  a!i    '^"'-     **<»'  "f    the 

"'he  Epieeopa,.  wh  ch    L^' ""  ^  """'■'«  them 
••wpe.  and  purity  of  ?'        ^^^  elegance  of  it. 
-^.  a„  oV^^^:  ,  V2  e  Of  architectn;: 
^ot  many  yean.  ,„„   j     ^^  *'*'es. 

P'f    «""  «.n.ilar  ,0  the  r  °'^  ^""^'"''" 
"•  the  «me  month  of  tL  T  "•«   happened 

?u.t  drove  the  accuLi '   7'°"'  *«  '"ri""* 
f» ««'    bay  up  the  ?„r  r  n"""'"  °^  Narra- 

f^d  "^ept  the  U^e^  J^^,^" ''^  "•<"«  .float. 
'"/<>  the  cove,  where  ^h»  "^"'"^  ">«  brid- 
es'a  monument  of ::  tzTr': '°"« '-««'- 

We  had  a  deli^hV^  "^adful  calamity. 

^''•e  Shores  .erf;£;  ;;"/-"  "/harbour. 

Ijouaes  appeared  persSu';:'  n""'""'^  '-■» 
•'OOP",  and  schooners  a"  ?hi  i,  '^"'  °'  ''"g». 
*o  "»e  a  common  simile   1  ''  '^"1  e^e^ 

hound   both  for  forS^'  hK  '^''""«'  around 

^'«'e  ports    in  the  b^     :«""'"'"■<"•-'='•' 
Greenwich,  and  WickforW     ?!'"°''  ^amick. 

'he  irind  freshened   aid  ^""«g  «he  nigh 

P'-'Jeuce    island    '  We   T  ^'""""=''°'  "«£ 

»«t«orning,  when  U,'  s^^"^  ^^'^Port  ,be 

**«"»e  degree,  we  were  !•?  *"f««"»S  'o  an 

*We  the  whole  day  'compelled    to  stop 


ill 


y 


208 


FEITESTRIAN   TOUR. 


BM 

■'U' 


f^ 


^ 


¥ 


-I 


ij. 


..>.^f 


'  This  town,  the  second  in  consideration,  is  situ- 
ated on  the  large  island  from  which  the  «tatc 
receives  its  name.  Thirty  years  Lus  made  little 
alteration  with  regard  to  the  population,  trade, 
and  appearance  of  Newport.  It  stretches  a 
mile  along  the  shore,  has  a  beautiful  State-house» 
no  small  number  of  meeting  houses,  a  very 
long  pier,  and  a  fine  harbour.  The  concourse 
of  shipping  is  considerable ;  and  many  fine  mer- 
chantmen are  here  fitted  out  for  the  European 
trade.  Upon  the  whole,  Newport  is  an  ill* 
looking  place,  and  almostdevoid  of  the  rural  ele- 
gancies of  surrounding  trees  and  gardens.  They 
have  a  curious  style  of  mason  work,  which  con- 
sists in  laying  broken  stones  of  all  sizes  and  shades 
so  completely  together,  that  the  fissures,  with- 
out mortar,  are  evenly  joined,  and  the  whole  in 
perspective  resembles  the  polished  breccia  of  the 
Capitol  pillars  of  Washington.  We  embraced 
the  opportunity  of  making  an  excursion,  over 
the  neck  which  defends  the  town  from  the  ocean, 
to  a  terrible  chasm  in  the  bed  of  rocks,  which  has 
been  appropriately  named.  Purgatory.  One 
morning  the  people  near  this  place  were  sur- 
prised by  a  ship  in  full  sail,  slowly  approaching 
directly  towards  the  strand.  She  was  hailed,  but 
no  aiiswer  was  returned.  She  struck  and  fas- 
tened, and  was  immediately  boarded  by  the 
inhabitants,  when  to  their  astonishment  mot  a 
soul  was  to  be  discovered  on  board,  v^Mfil|r 
thing  was  in  order;  the  breakfast  table^imi 
spread  in  the  cabin,  and  a  kitten  played  upon 
the  floor.    It  was  never  learned  whence  she 


I-EDESTIIIAN    TOUR. 


369 


came,  or  what  ever  becamp  nf  i. 

Phasing  a  quantity  offish   fo,      k?:'    ^"•- 

"famoujesto-^outfor'sea  On  ^^^P"" 
-hichaids  in  forming  tthTrto"  *""*' '/''"•'J. 
•nations  and  a   garrifon       nl     '  "''*  '^''"'- 

promontories, havTSes  upt'trt    '"'^ 
protection  of  the  entmn?!    k  f  J    **'"  '°''  "'e 

difficulty  and  e/iTe  :;  m!l '^  T""  °'  '^^ 

<=omplete.thepS„fr         ?  ""*  ''«''«'«« 

here,  was  abanj^ed  "^  '"'  "''^'"  "«?<" 

TuKs^er™ 

Yet  this  flourishfnl  '^  *'  "■"*  Population. 
t-«.e.y  fr^m  ?dLTaSs  T  "''^'^  - 
pear  to  have  given  ^St*;  a7'  ?""  ""- 
^o-^t.  and  prevented  Z'rea/in  ■"'"'''' 
commerce  and  rich -a  fn,.«Ji  ^  'ncrease  of 
William,  was  pop;^^^^^^^^  'T'^'^  «°8«r 
«  1635.  with  a  TfJ  r  ..  '"^^'■-    *^«  <='«>« 

opinion^L  eLStiemr^K  ".''"'  ^*"s-- 

%n.outhand  MSatCs    :  ^7''^'  ''''- 
establishing  a  fri^ndlv  in,„  Fox-pouU.  and 

«achems.  bL„  the  fo"      k"?"''' '"^^'"1""' 
his  escape  from  n    °'"''.'''"^'' in  gratitude /or 

fe  la^e  Isl/nZ t ^^.^tr »  -tt.ed 

h|«^ittosoflourishi„\rond     -XT 
^wwMUed  the  name  of  thp  I^a^^    c  a  ^* 

»««*°t  this  island  is  ctfefl^devoH  "■'"'''  " 
•6«-     Mines  and  valulhi  ^  '°  P»*'"- 

and  valuable  quarries  have  bew 


-yif 


■' 


I 


i:  V 


I 


■■It 


^  ■ 

» 

• 

270 


PEDESTRIAN    TOun. 


IS  4 

ii 


opened  in  the  interior  parts  of  the  country,  and 
from  these  resources,  it  has  obtained  considerable 
note  for  its  stone-lime  and  hardware  exports. 
Cotton  is  brought  from  the  south,  is  manufactured 
in  its  mills,  and  returned  with  advantage  in  the 
form  of  shawls,  stripes,  muslins,  or  handker- 
chiefs. I 
■'    There  is  no   marked  difference  between  the 
people  of  Rhode-Island,  and  those  of  other  New- 
England  states.    But  there  is  a  distinguishable 
difterence  between  them,  together  with  the  other 
New-Englanders,   and  the   inhabitants    of  the 
south.    Amongst  ourselves  we  call  the  former 
Yankies ;  but  foreigners  have  dubbed  us  all  with 
that  title.    The  latter  according  to  their  respec- 
tive states  are   denominated,  Virginians,  Ken- 
tuckians,  or  Georgians.    The  New-Englanders, 
considered  as  one  body  represented  in   an  in- 
dividual, are  a  sanctimonious,  sober,  good-look- 
ing, and  withal  an  enterprizing  neighbour,  full 
of  excellent  thoughts  and  new  inventions.     The 
southern  people,  considered  in  the  same  manner, 
are  a  hospitable,  complaisant,  as  well  as  a  profane, 
slave  driving  and  swarthy  looking  personage,  who, 
however,  keeps  a  ^harp  eye  to  his  own  aggran- 
dizement and  that  of  his  country.    The  middle 
States,  among  which  New- York  stands  pre-em- 
inent, hold  that  just  medium,  which  cannot  fail 
to  produce  respect  and  veneration. 

A   rapid  journey  through    Vermpb<^ 
Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  and  Rhode-Iiiliii||^ 
exclusive  of  Maine  and  Connecticut,  coald  ii(^ 


>»  >  -'^  Mi'^-k: 


•l 


country,  and 
considerable 
arc  exports, 
nanufactured 
intage  in  the 
or  haudker- 

between  the 
f  other  New- 
tinguishable 
ith  the  other 
mts    of  the 
the  former 
I  us  ail  with 
heir  respec- 
lians,  Ken- 
Englanders, 
l  in   an  in- 
,  good-look- 
:hbotir,  full 
tions.     The 
me  manner, 
»  a  profane, 
3nage,  who, 
¥n  aggran- 
rhe  middle 
ids  pre-em- 
cannot  fail 


'^^ 


xie-»liM|^ 
coald  ni 


*e  expected  to  give  a  n»„        . 

England.     nXL\ZToV"" ''"^ ''' ""'- 

various  parts,  with  occasioL?     *  ««idence   in 

U  reasons  of  the  ^r  Z       ''"""''''"'"^""''e 

knowledge  of  the  coumW      ^'"^  ""^  '^  '^""^ct 

«Iter,notwitb8tandiDgtbe«nH  r*"""'  *«  '™v- 
«;"«  observe  throughout  thr^''"P'°«'ess. 
^orth  America,  a  Sal  '"'Se  portion  o 

^'de».ofthee.c;ii:n:e„nlr''?  "'"'"  °''  "" 
an  equality  in  the  sharL!'*-!*"!'  "'"'  •^'•'•"ate. 
"on^.  that  provesTjrL     ^'""""■'"P'<^"c- 

condiUonofthe  people   1h      *''*">'  "ffl"*"' 
ease  and  fi^dom^condu^     '  ""*'  ^''^'aWe 
the  slightest  murmur  S-n?;  ''"^""'J^nied  by 
the  geneniJ  constitutiorwhib  ^^  ""*''  °'^"  °^ 
ernment  founded  on  t^.  """^  hwagov- 

iherty  could  exhib!"  ^  tbe""^'  P""-Plef  of 
rbo  British  boast  orZrlT'^^"^'  "'"^W- 
h"twhyisthe,^  .ucbTdif «"'""'  ^''^^om:^ 
'"fiorgntdes  of  ^i' ''It'^r  """""^  *« 
a«<d  rule«?  why  tho^st^    "^':''»  *«''  '"■'do 
attempts  at  refo^rm^nTSV    ,  ''"*'"=^*«'^'" 
E^lande«  have  f„,f  ^   ^       '^''^  ^«- 
d  slike  of  their  civil  banrfl  i.        *''''""^«'  their 
y^.  none  but  the  ed  Lr  X^^^^-^  ^''^ht.and 
«*-Briton.  cares  hardjto  fllTT"''"' "'  «"«« 
af  a  solitaiy  governor/gLe«!  V""" '^""'Ch 
Every  mouth,  through  ^^!n'        ^*-'^'»teu. 
sound,  the  praise  ofThetv!"'^"'^'**'  <^«"ntry. 

^%p«.e.  Without  thfn^rr:'"''"'^  -' « 

^««-bythousaudsor^Su7c1Sr';;| 


mj 


ii> 


i  I 

>  <  I 


II 
'i 


27a 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR* 


.«  r 


um 


1'      I  i> 

1 

■      ?! 

f  i 

at  may  be  heard  often    sung  to    the  listening 
and  pleased  multitudes^ 


*'  Merrily  everjr  bosom  boundeth, 
Where  the  song'  of  frte  Jom  soundeth.~" 


'•M{ 


It  would  appear,  that  the  smallest  shade 
of  monarchical  gloom,  or  of  aristocratical  fear, 
was  entirely  dispelled,  and  the  glory  of  perfect 
independence  had  shed,  honour,  concord,  ente- 
prise  and  religion  upon  the  hearts  of  the  people. 
And  shall  the  rest  of  the  United  States  be  exclu- 
ded from  this  moderate  eu login m  ?  "  If,"  said  a 
statesman  of  France  in  1791,  "  from  the  incon- 
stancy so  natural  to  her,  Liberty  has  stolen  from 
her  European  adorers,  and  has  decieved  them 
by  leaving  licentiousness  in  their  room,  let  us 
traverse  the  vast  extent  of  the  Atlantic  to  inquire 
whether  she  has  not  established  her  throne 
amidst  a  people,  more  likely  from  their  manners 
to  render  her  the  worship  in  which  she  delights. 
There  at  least  we  shall  contemplate  her  faithful 
image;  and  from  that  we  shall  be  able  to 
know  her,  if  on  our  return  we  shall  discover  her 
at  home,  triumphant  over  all  opposing  obstacles, 
disengaged  from  the  dark  anxieties  which  threw 
a  gloom  over  her  approach,  and  ballanced  in  the 
midst  of  public  tranquillity,  as  the  sun  in  a  cloud- 
less heaven  seems  to  float  in  an  ocean  of  light.'\* 

We  bade  welcome  to  the  outskirts  pf  5f?ir- 
York  on  the  fourth   day  of    November.    JJli 

•  Tno»l«tioD  of  D«  U  Croix.    ^ 


PEDESTRIAN    TOUR. 


273 


listening 


.t>.\ 


JA' 


n 


t 


;8t    shade 
Ltical  fear, 
of  perfect 
:ord,  ente- 
Lhe  people. 
B  be  exclu- 
If,"  said  a 
\  the  iiicon- 
stolen  from 
ieved  them 
pom,  let  us 
c  to  inquire 
her   throne 
eir  manners 
he  delights, 
her  faithful 
,e    able   to 
iscover  her 
ig  obstacles, 
hich  threw 
need  in  the 
in  a  cloud- 
of  light."* 


is  pf  N[«w- 
jmber.  ..^ 


towering  edifices  rose  more  and  more  distinct  as 
we  approached  the  WallahouU  With  throb- 
bing exultation,  I  pointed  out  the  several  places, 
to  my  attentive  and  wondering  fellow-passengers 
— There  is  che  Navy- Yard,  crowded  with  bulky 
ships  of  war — There  are  our  steam  and  team 
vessels,  going  and  coming  incessantly — ^The 
gothic  spire  which  is  now  chiming,  is  the  Trinity  - 
church — and  there  is  St.  Pauls — and  there  is  St. 
Georges,  which  you  might  imagine  to  be  a 
Chinese  observatory — and  there  is  the  top  of  the 
City-Hall,  a  superb  building  of  white  marble. 
As  to  lower  objects,  and  especially  the  fine  ran- 
ges of  store  bouses,  little  can  be  seen  of  them, 
through  those  entangled  meshes  of  ropes,  shrouds, 
und  yardarms.  We  became  enclosed  among 
the  vessels  at  Crane-wharf,  and  springing  upon 
the  quay,  had  a  new  subject  of  congratulation, 
in  the  rising  columns  of  an  extensive  market, 
which  had  been  reared  upon  the  ashes  of  a  late 
conflagration. 

Like  the  poor  pilgrim  who  toiled  in  ancient 
days  to  Jerusalem,  or  the  Mussulman  who  at 
length  returns  from  Mecca,  the  tourist  cannot  \l 
but  think  himself  remarkably  clear  in  con- 
science, when  he  has  accomplished  the  end  of 
his  journey.  Persons  abroad  and  widely  sepa- 
rated from  their  friends,  if  they  have  any, 
are  swimmers  in  a  great  ocean,  who  cannot 
find  one  firm  rock  to  found  their  confidence 
upon,  who  catch  here  and  there  at  the  unstaple 
«tfaws  that  float  about  like  themselves,  and  who, 


'{Ct^ 


l>     ll 


W 1 


2^4 


PEDESTRIAN  TOUB. 


«f-^ 


unless  they  are  adepts  and  in  a  customary  ele- 
ment, begin  to  feel  like  drowning  men,  until 
their  feet  are  once  more  upon  the  terra-firma  of 
a  HOME. — But  our  remarks  are  now  more  than 
sutricienily  protracted.  With  a  "  simple  tale"  we 
have  made  an  effort,  for  the  honour  of  the  nation, 
and  not  altogether  as  maliciousness  might 
whisper,  for  the  advantage  of  ourselves,  to  un- 
fold some  of  the  natural  beauties,  and  artificial 
magnificence  of  North  American  scenery ;  and 
until  that  voice,  which  bids  the  lover  to  clamber 
down  the  precipice  to  pluck  for  his  mistress  a 
flower,  or  the  patriot  to  behold  unmoved  the 
shafts  of  hatred  and  malice  aimed  at  his  breast, 
again  speaks,  we  will  throw  down  the  pen. 


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^ra-firma  of 
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pie  tale"  we 
f  the  nation, 
>nes8  might 
elves,  to  un- 
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enery ;  and 
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